Inside Kaliningrad, Russia’s exclave at the centre of EU sanctions row

Russia’s most westerly — and most Western — territory is within the highlight this week, going through new sanctions because the Kremlin’s warfare in Ukraine continues. 

Kaliningrad is an exclave: a part of Russia, however bodily separated from the remainder of the nation, and surrounded by Lithuania, Poland and the Baltic Sea.

“It is higher to dwell right here than one would typically assume,” stated an official on the German Consulate Common in Kaliningrad, one of many few Western diplomats nonetheless assigned there. 

Till World Warfare II, Kaliningrad was a part of Germany and often called Köningsburg, which explains quite a lot of the previous structure which would not look misplaced in different Baltic cities. 

Today it is the house port for Russia’s Baltic Sea fleet, with tens of 1000’s of army personnel and the location of Iskander missiles that are able to carrying a nuclear payload. 

It is this duality which makes Kaliningrad such a captivating place: on one hand, it’s thought of a fascinating space to dwell by many Russians, with an inflow of recent residents within the final decade having fun with the inexperienced areas and town’s entrepreneurial spirit. 

However, it is a strategically necessary army location simply 300km from the Swedish island of Gotland which is the defensive key to manage over the Baltic Sea — a spot the place everybody could have some connection to the army by way of a relative or pal. 

“Baltic Russians are a hope for his or her nation’s future,” stated Polish MEP Radek Sikorski this week, calling for measures to permit the folks of Kaliningrad, who he described as “essentially the most Putin-sceptic in Russia,” to journey. 

Earlier than the Russian invasion, Kaliningrad residents may get a particular allow to enter Poland with out a visa, and purchasing journeys into the EU have been a well-liked tour.

Generally, says the German consulate spokesperson, individuals who determine to dwell in Kaliningrad are likely to lean extra in the direction of the West, like to succeed in out to Europe and go to Poland to buy. 

Moscow is 1,200 kilometres from Kaliningrad, Berlin solely half that distance. 

How do native residents really feel about sanctions?

When Lithuania this week introduced a ban on the transit of some items by way of its territory from Russia to Kaliningrad, it sparked a swift and indignant response from the Kremlin. 

Moscow stated the transfer was “unprecedented” and “illegal”, and threatened to reply to the transit ban which incorporates coal, metals, development supplies and superior expertise. 

The ban accounts for round 50% of all items that Kaliningrad imports, however would not embody meals or drugs. 

Native residents, nevertheless, do not appear too involved but, regardless of Kremlin’s rhetoric. 

“Maybe there will likely be some issues with items supply however for now we won’t really feel it. We’ve not been affected but,” stated Konstantin Savv, a pupil in Kaliningrad. 

“In fact, the sanctions – because the earlier ones – will go away a mark on our area… scarce items will most likely not disappear however it is going to be for a short while and I believe the federal government will discover a resolution to this case in a short time and the whole lot will likely be resolved within the close to future. We aren’t panicking,” says Olga Klimova, who works for the native municipality. 

Sailor Semen Shchegolyatov stated that “I’m not anxious as a result of everybody was already ready for it. I do not know why the federal government is speaking about it solely now and why they’re so shocked.”

Kaliningrad’s decades-long rebirth

Because the collapse of the Soviet Union in 1991, Kaliningraders of all generations have been uncovering the buried traces of historical past. Immediately, there’s a form of East Prussian renaissance, a brand new curiosity within the historical past of the area the place one lives.

“In fact, there may be nonetheless the road with deep holes within the metropolis, the dilapidated buildings. Kaliningrad has all the time been handled a bit step-motherly by Moscow,” the German consulate spokesperson informed Euronews. 

“However rather a lot has been invested in infrastructure, not just for the (2018) World Cup. Throughout the COVID-19 pandemic, tourism picked up, Russians from different elements of the nation more and more holidayed on the Baltic seashores of Kaliningrad. There was funding in tourism infrastructure.”

“Significantly within the villages in the direction of the Baltic Sea resorts, Russification has not been so rampant — there are nonetheless many aged dilapidated church buildings right here,” the spokesperson stated.

“Kaliningrad with its East Prussian cultural heritage is one thing particular for Russian vacationers. They’re consciously making use of this heritage by not solely preserving previous buildings but additionally by orienting constructing rules to the previous model in order that even new buildings decide up on the East Prussian allure.”

However that prices rather a lot and companies are looking out for traders, says the German consul.

There are progressive initiatives, and activists working to protect the cultural heritage, the consulate spokesperson added.

However one other faction additionally exists, they informed Euronews, of people that flip extra in the direction of Moscow and whip up fears of an impending Germanisation.