Zuni Café: A San Francisco Classic – San Francisco Bay Times

By David Landis–

Typically, with regards to selecting a superb eating expertise, solely a traditional will do. San Francisco’s Zuni Café, an establishment based by Billy West in 1979 in a nook beforehand housed by a cactus retailer, suits the invoice completely.

I’ve been fortunate sufficient to be a daily at Zuni Café since 1980, after I began working because the PR Director on the San Francisco Symphony a number of blocks away. Again then, the buzzy “see and be seen” environment, together with scrumptious and easily ready meals, made it a culinary vacation spot. That high quality, I’m completely satisfied to report, nonetheless reigns supreme right now.

A little bit of Zuni Café historical past: in 1987, Billy had the foresight to rent chef Judy Rodgers, an alumnus of Chez Panisse in Berkeley, to take over the kitchen. She insisted {that a} wood-fired brick oven be put in (unprecedented on the time) to roast chickens, fish, and extra within the spirit of French cooking, with a fragile taste of smoke. Quite a few awards adopted, together with the James Beard awards for excellent restaurant and chef. Gilbert Pilgrim (who additionally cooked at Chez Panisse) joined Judy as co-chef in 2006 till her premature demise of most cancers in 2013. Fortunately, he has saved the flame burning brightly at Zuni Café to at the present time.

When eating at Zuni, in true traditional style, I like to focus on the “tried and true.” We final ate there for a late lunch with our buddies Mariusz and Barbara from Warsaw. We selected the pleasant patio (sure, it’s clear and secure) as a result of an added bonus is that you may watch the worldwide streetcars go by.

Cosmopolitan cocktails like La Vie en Rose (Bonal with grenadine, lime, and prosecco) supply a tempting begin to the meal, however we started as an alternative with a crisp and dry, mineral-driven white Tiefenbrunner Pinot Grigio from the Alto Adige area of Italy. Crusty Acme bread arrives on the desk with a pat of completely nuanced butter that’s at all times contemporary. I prefer to order the oysters at Zuni as a result of they’re among the many greatest within the metropolis. At this meal, we break up a dozen Beausoleil (from the East Coast) and native Kumamoto oysters with a tangy mignonette and lemon; the Pinot Grigio served as an ideal complement. Whereas we had been having fun with the oysters, we thought concerning the well-known and engaging burger, however as an alternative put in our order for the café’s well-known roasted rooster, which takes an hour. Extra on that later.

Subsequent, we break up an order of the signature shoestring potatoes, which we ordered “further crispy.” An overflowing stack arrived piping scorching and whet our urge for food for the approaching meal. Subsequent, we shared the café’s well-known Caesar salad, most likely the most effective within the metropolis. The lengthy romaine leaves are completely dressed, with simply the correct quantity of anchovy and crispy selfmade croutons which might be to die for. We merely needed to lick the plate.

Our dialog with our Polish buddies, after all, steered in the direction of the state of affairs in Ukraine and the way neighboring Poland is coping. It was an informative dialogue, in order that earlier than we knew it, our rooster arrived. Properly, first I ought to point out that San Francisco’s well-known fog first arrived, so the host kindly moved us inside (you should definitely carry your vaccine playing cards, they nonetheless test), the place we nonetheless had a nook view of the energetic motion on Market Avenue.

By the best way, the service was impeccable. Our server was at all times on level, however by no means hovering—there once we wanted him, however by no means intrusive. Simply the best way we prefer it.

On to the well-known roasted rooster. This dish could be what brings so many accolades—and return clients—to Zuni. The explanation it takes time is as a result of it’s wood-fire roasted underneath a brick on a mattress of scrumptious Acme bread, which soaks up the juices from the chicken. There isn’t a different dish prefer it wherever on this planet. It’s juicy, tender, flavorful—and 4 of us simply break up the dish and nonetheless had greater than sufficient to eat. Since we had been actually busting on the seams, we opted for a easy Parmesan cheese and date closing course, together with an herb-forward however clean Amaro on ice with an orange twist (and a few espressos besides).

By the best way, you’ll be able to nonetheless take Zuni Café dwelling with you: the Zuni Café Cookbook is offered on the restaurant or on-line. An excellent present concept for the foodie in your life.

Wrapping up our 3-hour lunch, I used to be reminded: there’s a motive for classics. And we’re fortunate sufficient that Zuni Café remains to be probably the greatest.

Bits and Bites

Waicoco on the Westin Maui: The Homosexual Gourmand had the pleasure of attending a media preview dinner for Waicoco, the brand new eating enterprise from Chef Mourad Lahlou (of San Francisco’s famed Mourad) and Chef Chris Kajioka. In two phrases, the meals is completely beautiful. Readers of this column know that I’m a daily traveler to Hawaii, and this restaurant is a welcome and creative addition to the eating scene there. Our tasting included probably the greatest mai tais ever created (not too candy however packed a punch), spiced nuts with harissa, three scrumptious spreads (together with piquillo-almond, charred eggplant (I skipped, since I’m allergic), and dill-lebni—all flavorful and distinctive. Plus, a blood orange Hamachi (gentle and contemporary), a number of the greatest and freshest salmon ever (with fennel and apple and oyster emulsion), and a duck basteeya (with apricot and rhubarb) that was even higher than Morocco. For many who are travelling to the Hawaiian Islands, be certain to cease in Maui. Don’t miss this newcomer that’s certain to garner culinary accolades.

Bernal Cutlery: I’ve been listening to good issues about this retailer for kitchen instruments and knives on the south facet of the town. It’s run by the husband-and-wife crew of Josh Donald and Kelly Kozak, and for these within the know, they’ve simply obtained a cargo of Japanese cookware referred to as donabe that may go instantly from the fridge to a direct flame. The shop additionally has a full complement of knives, kitchen shears, mortars and pestles, peelers, and extra.

Colibri Mexican Bistro on the Presidio: Certainly one of my favourite Mexican eating places, Colibri Mexican Bistro, closed throughout the pandemic at Union Sq. and fortunately has re-opened within the Presidio on the Presidio Officer’s Membership. Search for nice guacamole and signature margaritas, together with mole poblano, chilaquiles, and pozole verde, amongst different tasty delights.

The Academy within the Castro not too long ago re-launched its new meals menu, together with such tasty morsels as: bacon mousse pâté, Sicilian caponata, and a summer time sausage board. The meals gadgets can be found all day and all through the night.

Zuni Café: http://zunicafe.com/
Waicoco on the Westin Maui: https://www.waicocomaui.com/
Bernal Cutlery: https://bernalcutlery.com/
Colibri Mexican Bistro: http://www.colibrimexicanbistro.com/
The Academy: https://www.academy-sf.com/

David Landis, aka “The Homosexual Gourmand,” is a foodie, a contract author and a retired PR maven. Comply with him on Instagram @GayGourmetSF or electronic mail him at: davidlandissf@gmail.com Or go to him on-line at: www.gaygourmetsf.com.

Printed on June 9, 2022