San Diego, CA
A Taste of Massachusetts in PB: The Story Behind Big Jim’s Roast Beef | San Diego Magazine
One beautiful Wednesday morning just before 11 a.m., I found myself faced with a mountainous pile of thinly sliced, slow-roasted, tender roast beef generously slathered with James River BBQ sauce, mayonnaise, and white American cheese (the traditional “three-way”), sandwiched between a buttered and grilled caramelized onion bun.
Looking at the towering challenge before me, I thought, “Surely I won’t be able to finish all of this right now.”
Approximately three minutes later, as I wiped the remnants of the now completely vanquished Super Beef from Big Jim’s Roast Beef from my hands, table, shirt, pants—and yes, a bit out of my hair—I realized there was no chance of any part of that sandwich going home with me. Not only was it ridiculously, awesomely delicious, chef/owner James “Big Jim” Jones had just explained that these types of sandwiches are best eaten immediately, as per Massachusetts’ North Shore Beef Code.
“These are the beef guidelines,” he explains, pointing to a list of rules lorded over by a very angry looking anthropomorphic roast beef sandwich that I would venture to guess at least a few hundred people in Massachusetts have tattooed on them. He runs through each rule, ranging from acronyms for efficient ordering (COTB: Cheese on the Bottom vs. COTT: Cheese on the Top) to review criteria for comparing notes with other aficionados (B2B: Beef to Bun ratio or NGB: Nicely Griddled Bun).
He stopped at TIB: Time in Bag. Ideally, the time your sandwich spends in a to-go bag should be as close to zero as possible—every second the medium-rare beef sits on a bun and not on your tongue, it goes from pink to gray. “You want to have no time in bag,” he says. “As soon as you get it, eat it.”
There aren’t a ton of places in Southern California to get a legit New England–style North Shore roast beef sandwich, and Big Jim’s feels like a teleporter to Massachusetts, where Jones originally hails from. When he moved to San Diego in 2016, he worked in a few kitchens around town like Ono Grinds, Wicked Maine Lobster, and Cloak & Petal for a couple of years. Cue the pandemic, and the at-home boredom.
He picked up a deli slicer from OfferUp and started roasting and slicing roast beef like he used to get back home. Making sandwiches for himself turned into making sandwiches for friends. That turned into making an Instagram page for deliveries and then a pop-up at Poor House Brewing Company in North Park. Finally, it became a booth at a couple of farmers markets.
Three years later, he got the chance to lease a small storefront in Pacific Beach, and celebrated the restaurant’s two-year anniversary this September.
Like the roast beef, Jones’ business plan takes time. “[I] let the universe work pretty naturally and organically,” he says in terms of his expansion plans. He’s in no rush to open a second storefront, but would be open to it once he feels the Pacific Beach location gets fully dialed in. There’s still a bit of customer education to do, because a North Shore-style roast beef sandwich shouldn’t be messed with, and the customer isn’t always right (at first).
“If people come in and they get a roast beef sandwich and ask me for ketchup, I say, ‘What are you using your ketchup for?’ And depending on what their answer is, you might not get the condiment that you want to go with your sandwich,” he says with a smile. “It’s beautifully perfect the way it is. Try it! And if you still want some condiments to go with it, come back. Let me know. I’ll take care of you.”
His signature sandwich is unquestionably the Super Beef, the New England regional classic that’s really not for the faint of heart. For a more diminutive approach, the Junior Beef is the same thing, but with slightly less roast beef on a plain bun rather than an onion bun. There’s also a French dip (which he admits isn’t a Massachusetts staple, but still beloved); a steak & cheese on a hoagie roll; and the homemade, hand-cut onion rings that have a cult following. (Warning: a large order of onion rings is bigger than you think.)
Despite making it to #33 on Yelp’s top 100 restaurants for 2025, a lot of Big Jim’s business comes from word of mouth and the small, but strong contingent of “Massholes” (he said it, not me!) in PB. “We’re the nicest jerks you’ve ever met,” Jones jokes.
But the San Diego sun must melt the grumpiness out of the East Coast transplants, because from what I can see, everyone leaving Big Jim’s is in a great mood, despite bulging bellies and barbecue-sauce smeared fingers. And now we can get real roast beef sandwiches and not have to deal with the East Coast’s nasty weather, San Diegans really do have the best of both worlds.
Big Jim’s Roast Beef & Subs is located at 4508 Cass Street, Suite B in Pacific Beach. Hours are Wednesday through Friday, 11 a.m. to 4 p.m., Friday through Saturday 11 a.m. to 7 p.m., and Sunday 11 a.m. to 6 p.m.
San Diego Restaurant News & Food Events
After A Year Of Rumors and Speculation, Las Cuatro Milpas Counts Down to Closing
The end was always going to come for Las Cuatro Milpas—the family said so themselves—and that time is nigh. The Barrio Logan property officially sold this week for $2.21 million, according to the San Diego Union-Tribune, and will likely cease operations by the end of the year.
The past year has been awash with rumors of the restaurant’s imminent closure, originally vehemently denied by the Estudillo family on multiple occasions both online and in-person, but the property’s sale has now been confirmed by the family’s real estate agent Voltaire Lepe. According to the U-T, only the building and adjoining parcel will change hands (not the business name or restaurant itself) to the longtime next door neighbor, Iglesia del Dios Vivo Columna Inc., the controversial Light of the World Church (again, something the family said would not happen). But mounting debts and aging owners leave few options, it would seem.
With so many conflicting narratives of what people wished would happen and what is actually happening, it’s a bit of a bummer how the end is shaking out for this iconic institution. But in the dwindling weeks we have left to enjoy the best beans and tortillas in town, I propose we focus on remembering the amazing 92 years the Estudillos gave San Diego. Take every opportunity you get to grab a taco and thank the ladies behind the counter for their long and tireless service. Las Cuatro Milpas, you will not be forgotten.
Beth’s Bites
- Crack Taco Shop is slowly, but surely extending its domain across San Diego. The home of the “world famous crack tri-tip taco” (debatable on being world famous, but still tasty) just opened its third location in Encinitas, and is less than a month away from opening its fourth location at 1009 Orange Avenue on Coronado. The group also just announced that they ditched seed oils in favor of olive oil and beef tallow, so if that’s a thing you keep track of, go ahead and add them to your list of seed oil-free restaurants in San Diego.
- If you’re looking to do some good in the community today, consider grabbing a bite at Just Peachy Market in Encinitas. Owner and father of two, Noberto Ambrosio recently had his immigration case reopened and is expected to appear before an immigration judge on November 25. He and his family posted a message of how they can best be supported, including writing to the judge or emailing the court, continuing to shop at Just Peachy, or even just stopping by with a message of support and solidarity.
Listen Now: The Latest in San Diego’s Food and Drink Scene
Have breaking news, exciting scoops, or great stories about new San Diego restaurants or the city’s food scene? Send your pitches to [email protected].
San Diego’s experiment with women’s professional volleyball is ending after just three seasons.
The San Diego Mojo will play one final home match on Thursday night before heading to Dallas for the Major League Volleyball playoffs. The club announced Tuesday that it will not return for the 2027 season.
The club posted to Instagram that it was “heartbroken to announce” that Thursday marks the final home game in franchise history.
Owner Gary Jacobs said in a statement that he wanted the Mojo to take the 2027 season off while building a long-term plan for the franchise, but that “the league believes a different direction is required.” MLV remains committed to San Diego and will “lead the effort to identify potential new investors” in the club, the Mojo said.
The Mojo are offering free tickets to fans who want to attend Thursday’s match at Viejas Arena. Fans can claim up to eight per person by visiting the team’s social media profiles and clicking the attached link.
The timing is particularly cruel. The Mojo (14-12) have thrived under first-year coach Alisha Childress, winning 13 of their last 19 matches and qualifying for the MLV Championship, a four-team tournament that will determine the league champion. The Mojo will play either the Dallas Pulse or Indy Ignite in the May 7 semifinals, with the winner advancing to the championship match.
The Mojo debuted in 2024, with a high-profile owner — beach volleyball star Kerri Walsh-Jennings — and a roster that included a mix of native San Diegans and international stars. Walsh-Jennings sold the club to Jacobs following the inaugural season, and the PVF merged with Major League Volleyball in January.
The Mojo’s shuttering is another blow to professional sports in the heart of San Diego.
Major League Rugby’s San Diego Legion moved north following the 2025 season, rebranding as the California Legion. The San Diego Sockers of the Major Arena Soccer League and the San Diego Strike Force of the Indoor Football League both relocated from Pechanga Arena to Oceanside’s Frontwave Arena when the new, smaller venue opened in 2024.
Nellie Bartusch
OBITUARY
Nellie I. Bartusch, 86, passed away peacefully on April 15, 2026, in San Diego, California.
Born on June 19, 1939, she spent part of her early years in Grygla, Minnesota before returning to Chicago, where she became a mother to five boys. Later, moving to Arizona in the ’80s before making San Diego her home.
She was a gifted artist who loved every medium, from quilting, gemstones, glassblowing, gardening, and crafts. Her paintings were displayed in galleries and her talent was featured in newspapers. She could be found frequenting thrift stores collecting pieces of art, and books that she displayed in every inch of her home.
She was exceptionally bright and earned her master’s degree from San Diego State University. Eventually working, and dedicating her professional life to SDSU, where she retired.
Nellie was a woman full of warmth, kindness, and generosity. She had boundless intelligence, and an endless thirst for knowledge. Her legacy of education and learning will be carried forward by those who had the privilege to be loved by her. Her life will be a testament to the power of resilience and determination.
She is survived by her sons Greg, Glenn, and Paul Bartusch; her grandchildren Greg, Andrew, Caroline Silva, and Katelyn Marie Amrhein and her family; her great-grandson Sol Silva; and her brothers Dave and Lee Ortlepp.
In her final act, she chose to donate her body to science, often saying, “Why give my body to the worms, when it can help to cure cancer.”
She will be deeply missed and forever remembered by all who knew her.
It felt like the San Diego Padres’ game all day, in large part, because it was.
Michael King twirled six innings of two-run ball, sporting eight strikeouts and only one walk. He exited the game with a 7-2 lead over the Arizona Diamondbacks. It was over in a hurry.
Advertisement
The Padres’ bullpen (uncharacteristically) gave up the game in a loud way. David Morgan and Bradgley Rodriguez combined to give up six runs — including a Tim Tawa grand slam — in the bottom of the seventh before Ron Marinaccio and Wandy Peralta gave up four more runs in the eighth to give the D-backs a five-run cushion.
San Diego tried to come back multiple times but couldn’t answer once, ending in a disappointing loss after what had started off as a promising game. Three home runs, two from Manny Machado and the other from Luis Campusano, had buoyed the Friars for most of the game until the relief blowup.
On most days, if the Friars scored seven runs before turning it over to the bullpen, there’d be no worry of giving the game up. But yesterday that was not to be.
The hard truth for the Friar Faithful is there will be games like this. It’s not an indictment on the bullpen, it’s just a long, long, season and leads will be blown sometimes — no matter how good the club is.
Advertisement
That being said, San Diego will return home tonight hoping to best the similarly-hot Chicago Cubs. Their offense will be back in the pitcher-friendly confines of Petco Park so they’ll need to bet on a bounce back performance from the relief corps.
Taking the mound
Matthew Boyd (CHC) v. Randy Vásquez (SD)
That being said, Boyd (although feared in the past) has not been pitching like himself lately. He gave up six runs in his first start of the season before being placed on the injured list for two weeks. He’s been better since returning but still sports a 5.79 ERA on the year.
Boyd has also yet to go a full six innings in a game (5 2/3 at most). That’s good news for the Friars, who will hope to get to the Chicago bullpen quickly. They’ve been mostly solid but have struggled to a 3.95 ERA to start the year, and are without closer Daniel Palencia.
Advertisement
Vásquez, on the other hand, has been San Diego’s ace to open the season. He’s tallied a 1.88 ERA and 1.08 WHIP to go with 30 strikeouts across 28 2/3 innings. He’s been a beast on the mound for the Padres and has only given up more than one run once.
Helping Vásquez significantly is his history facing Chicago. The righty owns a .194 opponent batting average against the Cubs’ lineup. If he can limit them similarly (like he’s done to opponents all season), Vásquez will have no problem tonight.
Batter up!
After some early tweaking by manager Craig Stammen, the lineup has been more or less set lately. It seems likely that continues tonight against Boyd, looking something like this:
Advertisement
I’m hoping that Song makes his debut at the plate tonight. It’s possible that he debuts in a pinch-hit opportunity or DH-ing) as opposed to starting the game at second. But it seems possible he takes the start over Jake Cronenworth after Cronenworth’s slow offensive start to the season.
Tatis is still searching for his first homer of the year. It has been — by far — his longest drought without one. Hopefully he’ll hit one while being cheered on by the Friar Faithful tonight.
Relief corps
Like I said, the San Diego bullpen looked rough yesterday. But that’s hardly an indication of a downhill turn for the group. They’ve been dominant this year, ranking third in the majors with a 3.03 ERA.
Advertisement
The high-leverage guys (Jason Adam, Adrian Morejon and Mason Miller) have continued to be dominant — showing no signs of stopping. Miller took the franchise record for scoreless innings pitched this weekend and will look to extend it tonight if San Diego has a lead in the ninth.
Behind those three is Kyle Hart, who will surely be first out of the ‘pen if Vásquez doesn’t perform as well as he typically does. Hart can cover several innings well for the Friars with his history as a starter, though he hopefully won’t need to so long as Vásquez pitches a gem.
-
New York15 minutes agoFather and Daughter Who Sold Fake Warhols Plead Guilty in Forgery Scheme
-
Detroit, MI45 minutes agoJackson Jobe throws first bullpen in return from Tommy John surgery
-
San Francisco, CA57 minutes ago
Oakland, California, airport can use ‘San Francisco’ in name after settlement
-
Dallas, TX1 hour ago
Cowboys LB coach ‘feels really good’ after NFL draft, new additions
-
Miami, FL1 hour ago2 more Miami Beach Commissioners endorse Vicki Lopez for Miami-Dade Commission
-
Boston, MA1 hour ago99 Restaurant in Charlestown may close for apartments
-
Denver, CO1 hour agoRe/Max to be sold, headquarters to leave Denver
-
Seattle, WA1 hour agoSeattle’s drug diversion plan falters as open-air use persists in neighborhood hotspots
