Hawaii
The paradise islands that don't want to be Hawaii
Getty ImagesThe Cook Islands is proving that sustainable tourism isn’t just possible – it’s essential. Here’s how this South Pacific nation is preserving their paradise for generations for come.
Landing on Rarotonga, the largest of the Cook Islands chain felt like stepping back in time. Gazing out of the taxi from Rarotonga airport to our resort, we were immediately struck by the absence of high-rise hotels, fast-food restaurants and corporate chains. There were no traffic lights, only coconut palms lining the road, the scent of salt and frangipani drifting through the air and the jungle meeting the ocean in a seamless panorama. It felt like Hawaii in the 1960s: uncrowded, laid-back and refreshingly authentic.
Our taxi driver pointed to a low-slung resort along the shoreline. “No building can be higher than a coconut tree,” she said. This isn’t just a local tradition but a law set in 1965 by the Cook Islands’ first premier, Albert Henry, to prevent overdevelopment. She explained that only Cook Islanders can own land, ensuring that large corporations don’t dominate the landscape. We looked out onto hotels blending naturally into their surroundings and white-sand beaches ringed with long green parks, all free from litter and crowds.
We soon learned that this preservation of paradise is deeply intentional. Cook Islanders have made a conscious effort to ensure that Rarotonga never follows the path of overdevelopment seen in places like Honolulu. Instead, locals have committed to conservation, low-impact tourism and sustainable practices that benefit both locals and visitors. “People come here because it is a paradise uncluttered by overdevelopment,” explained Jeremy Goodwin, regenerative tourism manager for the Cook Islands Tourism Corporation (CITC). “Our sacred duty as custodians of the land is to look after our paradise.”
Getty ImagesThe Cook Islands, an archipelago of 15 islands between New Zealand and Hawaii, has been self-governing in free association with New Zealand since 1965. With a total population of 21,000, the islands are divided into two groups: the Southern Cook Islands, which includes the more accessible Rarotonga and Aitutaki, and the remote Northern Cook Islands, made up of low-lying coral atolls. Cook Islanders have their own Māori language, with different dialects across the islands. And while tourism is a key industry, the islanders have ensured that sustainability remains at the nation’s core.
“For hundreds of years, the protection of the Cook Islands relied on the traditional Ra’ui System where access to a particular resource or area is forbidden for a given period,” explained Karla Eggelton, CEO of CITC. “The system aims to conserve food resources and protect ecological conditions in lagoons, reefs and other marine resources.”
Thoughtul Travel
Green Getaways is a BBC Travel series that helps travellers experience a greener, cleaner approach to getting out and seeing the world.
This philosophy persists today – and extends beyond the sea. On the northern island of Pukapuka, for example, locals have practiced sustainable living for centuries, packing up their belongings and sailing by boat to another atoll within the lagoon for seasonal periods to prevent resource depletion. They fish and farm only what they need, maintaining a delicate balance with nature.
On arrival at The Rarotongan Beach Resort and Lagoonarium, staff welcomed us with a warm “Kia Orana”, a greeting that translates to “may you live long”. It’s a unique gesture of friendship from islanders renowned for their hospitality and warmth. The resort overlooks the Aroa Lagoonarium, a snorkelling haven and a sanctuary for butterflyfish, parrotfish and angelfish. Part natural lagoon and part enclosed habitat, it is designed to support marine conservation, serving both as a coral nursery and a protected area for marine life to flourish.
Pamela and Gary BakerAs the days passed, we saw how sustainability is woven into everyday life across the islands. At the Muri Night Market, a popular outdoor dinner option, we watched vendors prepare island dishes like ika mata (raw fish marinated in lime and coconut milk) and rukau rukau (taro leaves in coconut cream), all using local ingredients. We were struck by the market’s Rent-a-Plate project, where visitors can borrow reusable plates and cutlery instead of using disposable plastic. Cook Islanders also promote clean water initiatives. We purchased reusable bottles from the visitor’s centre and refilled them at free UV-treated water stations around the island, a project led by the Te Ipukarea Society to minimise plastic waste.
How to play your part
1. Support the Cook Islands economy by buying local crafts, clothing and food. Attend a cultural tour or show and embrace the traditions, customs and lifestyle.
2. Take shorter showers to save the islands’ limited water supply and minimise electricity use.
3. Volunteer with Muri Environment Care Group. Every Wednesday and Thursday, visitors can join efforts to protect Muri Lagoon by participating in soil restoration projects and planting native trees near streams to control sediment flow into the lagoon.
4. Choose eco-friendly experiences and products, use reef-safe sunscreen and avoid single-use plastics.
Beyond sustainable dining, Cook Islanders have taken marine conservation to a global scale. In 2017, the country established the Marae Moana Marine Park, making the 15 islands the world’s largest multi-use marine protected area, covering 1.9 million square kilometres. The legislation also bans large-scale commercial fishing and seabed mining within 50 nautical miles of each island.
“Marae Moana is the idea of shared space, a new concept of creating a sanctuary and the conservation effort that allows for shared, sustainable activity,” said Eggelton.
Also offering opportunities for sustainable tourism is Aitutaki, a bucolic island neighbouring Rarotonga that’s known for its snow-white sand beaches, volcanic rock, coconut palms and crystal-clear lagoons. Here the Pacific Resort Aitutaki has launched a coral restoration project where guests can take part by affixing coral fragments to underwater mesh tables, helping regenerate the reef.
“The project is an example of Mana Tiaki or island conservation,” explains Goodwin. “Mana Tiaki means guardianship with a sacred purpose.” He explained that culturally, for most Polynesians, the ocean is sacrosanct. “The beaches bring tourists to this holiday destination, but they also connect Cook Islanders to the ocean.”
Getty ImagesAs the days passed, we explored the endless powdery white-sand beaches that ring Rarotonga, from Aroa Beach where fiery, colourful sunsets painted the sky with hues of vivid orange and crimson to serene and scenic Titikaveka Beach. They were all pristine and uncrowded, lined by palm trees, parkways and picnic tables. Most were unobstructed, with no commercial buildings to obstruct the view.
At Muri Beach, we opted for a sea turtle snorkelling tour. Our guide, Eric, explained the importance of turtles to the Cook Islands economically, environmentally and culturally. Daily tour operators earn an income by taking paying passengers to see these graceful, curious creatures. Plus, sea turtles are a key indicator of coastal ecosystem health, so monitoring and preservation are vital. Eric told us about a rescuer who found a turtle caught in a fishing net. Once freed, the Te Ara O Te Onu (Cook Island Sea Turtle Society) rehabilitated the turtle, as they have done dozens of times in the past. In addition to the society’s efforts, visitors are encouraged to help track turtle movement through the Citizen Science Project by taking photos and sending them into the programme.
By the time our trip had come to an end, we better understood how Cook Islanders have created a blueprint for preserving paradise by blending ancient conservation methods with modern environmental initiatives. “It’s about leaving both the people and the place better off than you found it,” said Eggelton.
Goodwin echoed the sentiment: This is our little paradise; if we all look after it, she will look after us.”
Hawaii
Former teammates will square off as coaches for Hawaii and Cal in the Hawaii Bowl
HONOLULU — A pair of former college teammates will face off when Hawaii takes on California in the Hawaii Bowl on Wednesday.
Hawaii coach Timmy Chang and Cal interim coach Nick Rolovich were quarterbacks at Hawaii and teammates for two seasons in 2000-01.
Chang made 50 career starts in four years, while Rolovich started 12 games over two seasons.
“I’m grateful to be here with Timmy, so much great history with us,” Rolovich said on Monday.
He pointed out that the 15,000-seat Clarence T.C. Ching Athletics Complex where they’ll play on Christmas Eve sits on what previously served as the Rainbow Warriors’ practice facility, Cooke Field, where Rolovich was first introduced to Chang.
“I think that makes it even more special, that the game’s not only played in Hawaii, but played kind of right there in that spot,” Rolovich said.
Chang, in his fourth year leading Hawaii (8-4), said he and Rolovich were roommates on the road in their playing days.
Hawaii head coach Timmy Chang in the first half during an NCAA football game against Arizona on Saturday, Aug. 30, 2025, in Tucson, Ariz. Credit: AP/Rick Scuteri
“We ended up building a close bond,” he said. “I got to learn so much from this guy here, just watching him go through everything that a college student-athlete goes through, the ups, the downs. There’s so many things that I learned from Rolo. … (We were) just kids at 18 to 20, 21 years old, coming together and now look at us here. It’s special, it really is.”
Bowl-ing season
Hawaii will be making its 15th bowl appearance and its 10th in the Hawaii Bowl. The last postseason appearance for the Rainbow Warriors came in 2019, when they beat BYU in the Hawaii Bowl. They earned a bid to their hometown bowl in 2021, but were forced to withdraw due to COVID issues within the program.
Cal (7-5) will be playing its 27th bowl game. It earned bids to the LA Bowl in each of the past two seasons, but lost to Texas Tech in 2023 and UNLV a year ago. The Golden Bears are seeking their first eight-win season since 2019.
Inside the numbers
Both teams have found success passing the ball this season. Hawaii ranks ninth in the FBS in passing offense at 289.7 yards per game, while Cal’s average of 270.8 yards ranks 21st. Opponents have averaged 197.1 passing yards against the Golden Bears, the 37th best mark in the country, while Hawaii has surrendered an average of 218 yards through the air (62nd in FBS).
Cal ranks last (134th) in rushing offense at a mere 76.5 yards per game. Hawaii’s 104 rushing yards per game ranks 125th nationally.
Southpaw slingers
Both starting quarterbacks are left-handed and hail from neighboring towns on the west side of the island of Oahu. Cal’s Jaron-Keawe Sagapolutele, who has passed for 3,117 yards with 20 total touchdowns, is a true freshman from Ewa Beach, while Hawaii’s Micah Alejado calls Kapolei his hometown. The redshirt freshman has logged 2,832 yards through the air and tallied 22 total TDs.
All-Americans
Cal defensive back Hezekiah Masses and Hawaii placekicker Kansei Matsuzawa each received All-America recognition for their respective senior campaigns. Masses recorded five interceptions, 18 passes defended and 43 tackles en route to an AP second-team selection, while Matsuzawa converted 25 of 26 field goals and all 37 of his extra-point attempts to earn AP first-team honors.
Change at the top
Rolovich was named interim coach after Justin Wilcox was fired on Nov. 23. Just six days after the coaching change, Cal upset then-No. 21 SMU 38-35 with Rolovich at the helm. On Dec. 4, the school announced the hiring of Oregon defensive coordinator Tosh Lupoi as the program’s coach. Rolovich will remain on staff for the Golden Bears as quarterbacks coach and assistant head coach.
Hawaii
Hawaii Bowl attendees advised to take public transit to avoid traffic, parking
HONOLULU (HawaiiNewsNow) – Planning to go to the Hawaii Bowl? City leaders are encouraging fans to utilize public transportation.
The Hawaii Bowl will take place Christmas Eve in front of a sold-out crowd at the University of Hawaii at Manoa’s Clarence T.C. Ching Athletics Complex.
Kickoff is set for 3 p.m.
To help attendees get to and from the game, the city Department of Transportation Services (DTS) is ramping up bus services that connect Skyline’s Ahua Lagoon rail station and the UH Manoa campus.
“We want fans focused on the game, not on traffic or parking. TheBus and Skyline offer the safest and easiest way to get to UH Manoa and back home to celebrate the holiday with family,” Mayor Rick Blangiardi said.
Regular TheBus U Line service (Ahua Lagoon Drive Skyline Station–UH Manoa via the H-1 Freeway) will operate throughout the day.
To improve travel for game attendees, DTS will also run additional U Line service every 15 minutes between 12:15 p.m. and 2:45 p.m.
Along with the U Line and Skyline, the A Line (Ahua Lagoon Drive Skyline Station – UH Manoa) will be running regular weekday service between the Ahua Lagoon Drive Station and Sinclair Circle at UH Manoa.
Fans can also reach UH Manoa on Routes 1, 1L, 4, 6, and 13.
DTS encourages riders to plan ahead using the Transit App to map out routes, check arrival times, and stay on top of travel options.
Regular fares will be in effect for Skyline and TheBus. All annual and monthly fares are valid for Skyline and TheBus.
Copyright 2025 Hawaii News Now. All rights reserved.
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