Hawaii
A Snob’s Guide to Oahu With Kids
Rare is it to find someone who vacations where they grew up. But perhaps less so if you were raised in a place like Oahu (guilty!), where even the most fantastical Hawaiian stereotypes prove delightfully true: surfing the ocean as a kid, swimming underneath waterfalls during hiking excursions, befriending giant sea turtles that look straight out of a Disney movie.
Some might snub Oahu, deeming it the most “touristy” of the Hawaiian islands—too developed, too busy. For the incurious traveler, that may ring true. But for families who travel thoughtfully, Oahu is one of the most beautiful, layered, and substantive destinations you can visit—for both kids and adults. From the Sunday brunch spot where you can get your bottomless prosecco (and the kids can have their unlimited ice cream sundaes), to the Obama-approved beach that has a spate of activities for all ages, to the museums that’ll inspire even your most jaded teen to pay attention, there is fun for all to be found. You just need to know where to go—which is where we come in.
Where to Stay
The Ritz-Carlton O‘ahu, Turtle Bay, is bar none on the island. Located on the North Shore on more than 1,000 acres, the paragon of natural beauty has five miles of secluded coastline and seven unique beaches. For a lodging experience more authentic (and luxurious) than the typical hotel, book an Ocean Bungalow, a secluded villa that is about as oceanfront as it gets—and only a five-minute walk from the main hotel. It comes with a private beach, pool, and concierge, plus access to the Club Lounge, an exclusive waterfront space with an all-day buffet perfect for families.
Elsewhere on the property, families can take full advantage of private surf lessons, horseback riding, hula lessons, lei making, and two water slides that will keep energy levels high. Be sure to order the fish tacos at the pool, made with artisanal tortillas from Raiz Tortillas. Another reason to check in: This fall, the Ritz-Carlton will be introducing a kids club with outdoor experiences focused on Hawaiian culture. And despite feeling like you’re in your own little world, when you decide to venture off-property, you’re just 20 minutes away from Haleiwa, home of the biggest surfing beaches in the world, and 40 minutes from Waikiki.
For a hotel only 20 minutes from the airport, Four Seasons Oahu is beautiful, has some great restaurants, including La Hiki, and caters to children of all ages with a dedicated kids pool and a kid-friendly manmade beach. That being said, the Disney hotel sits right next door, and both resorts share a beach—so it can get crowded. While there are certainly many kids who might enjoy the Disney-fication of any vacation, the adults might not find merit in seeing Mickey Mouse eclipse the sunrise. On the plus side, if you want to take them to a Disney Character brunch, you can easily walk on over. And if you’d rather stay in Waikiki, Halekulani stands out thanks to its expansive luxury suites and incredible food selection (more on that later).
For the Adventurous Family
The charming, laid-back North Shore is home to endless outdoor activities. What better way to begin than in the ocean? Sign the whole fam up for surf lessons at the Jamie O’Brien Surf Experience, which has some of the best instructors on the island (and is great for beginners).
A visit to Hawaii would not be complete without a luau, and the best on the island is the Paniolo Luau, a celebration of Hawaii’s cowboy heritage set at the Stables at the Ritz-Carlton. Prepare for a fiery (pun intended) dinner show that pays homage to Paniolo culture with music, hula, and a Hawaiian feast featuring everything from a traditional pig roast to classic campfire s’mores. Afterwards, take a guided tour with Stargazers of Hawaii, where an astronomer will lead a night of stargazing.
Dinosaur-obsessed kids and movie buffs alike will find common ground at Kualoa Ranch. The Jurassic-inspired tour can be done via horse, UTV, or zipline. There are no bad options—all provide a full immersion into the iconic filming locations from the sets of Jurassic World, Jumanji, and Godzilla.
Do head south, too, where Honolulu offers its own array of coastal activities. Book a private catamaran sailing tour off Waikiki to watch the sunset. Take a hike to Manoa Falls, Makapu’u Lighthouse, or Diamond Head, which are well suited for kids with relatively short routes lasting between one and two hours. Or, for sweeping coastal views—and the perfect family postcard—drive along Kalanianaʻole Highway towards Makapu’u.
Over on the windward coast (translation: east) of Oahu is Lanikai Beach, a favorite of former President Obama and one of the best beaches for kids. If you’re feeling adventurous, arrive at around 5 a.m. for sunrise. Older kids may enjoy a private kayaking tour out to the Mokulua Islands, an elusive pair of islets that are rarely photographed. Alternatively, head offshore to the Kaneohe Sandbar, where guided snorkeling tours on shallow, calm waters practically guarantee plenty of sea turtle and tropical fish sightings.
For the Cultured Family
Oahu’s rarified history shines through two of its most decorated residential palaces. First, there is Shangri La, the former home of billionaire heiress—and erstwhile “richest girl in the world”—Doris Duke. Perched on a cliff above the Pacific, the home is a maximalist love letter to Islamic Art that is particularly well-suited for families with older children (just think of the Instagram potential). Booking a guided tour is required so plan accordingly.
Then there is Iolani Palace. Built in 1882 to serve as the official residence of the Hawaiian monarchs, it remained a royal home until the overthrow of the Hawaiian Kingdom and its last queen, Liliʻuokalani, in 1893. Rich with legend and political history, the palace offers a sobering—and essential—perspective to counterbalance the fantasy of Hawaii many visitors arrive with, its stories conveyed through both architecture and narrative.
The Honolulu Museum of Art may surprise you with its intimacy, despite boasting a diverse collection of 55,000 pieces spanning 5,000 years. For a more aerial perspective, a private Pearl Harbor Warbirds flight is a compelling way to bypass crowds and learn about one of World War II’s most significant historical landmarks.
And yes, shopping can be culture, too. Oahu has the world’s largest outdoor mall, the Ala Moana Shopping Center, where you can easily spend an afternoon, then head down to Waikiki for a meal. While you peruse the designer wares on Luxury Row, your kids can get their fill of unique toys and charming souvenirs at Keiki Kaukau, one of the best children’s brands on the island (also stocked at the Growing Keiki near the North Shore).
For the Foodie Family
Buffet brunches run the gamut in Waikiki, but Orchids at Halekulani comes out on top for its Sparkling Sunday Brunch, which has an ice cream sundae bar, serves sushi and sashimi (among many other things), and, for the adults, a steady flow of bubbles.
For sunset dining, Hau Tree is a favorite, with a postcard-perfect beachfront setting nestled beneath the restaurant’s namesake hau trees. If you prefer a soundtrack with your sunset, Hideout and Duke’s Waikiki deliver two distinct vibes: the former’s rooftop perch has a buzzy, bar-centric energy, making it better suited for daytime visits with younger children or evening outings with older ones, while the latter has torch-lit ocean views and a live band at dusk.
If the standard Waikiki restaurant circuit feels a bit predictable, Waioli Tea Room and Haleiwa Joe’s offer detours into a more old-school, deeply local version of Oahu. Both welcome families with a refreshingly relaxed attitude that feels miles away from the resort corridor. Other places to put on the list: The Pig and the Lady (get the Pho French Dip), Monkeypod Kitchen, Deck, House Without a Key, and Koko Head Cafe (for the Koko Moco, a loco moco with a Korean twist).