‘The math just doesn’t work’: Little India to close in West Highland

Little India will close its West Highland location in the coming months, owner Simeran Baidwan told BusinessDen.

It marks the end of a five-year run at the corner of 32nd Avenue and Lowell Street for the local Indian chain.

“We opened to preserve jobs because we didn’t have enough revenue,” he said of the pandemic days when restaurants were struggling.

The 3496 W. 32nd Ave. store helped keep dozens of chefs and servers in Baidwan’s “Little India family,” he said. Those workers will now have the opportunity to work at his other restaurants.

“Five years later, the question isn’t whether people love the food,” he continued. “It’s whether independent restaurants can survive the compounding pressures and expenses, especially in Denver.”

Baidwan, who opened the first and still-running Little India at Sixth and Grant alongside his parents in 1998, singled out rising minimum wage, insurance, delivery fees and credit card processing fees as factors contributing to the closure.

“I think what it is, is a Denver restaurant industry story, it’s not just our one restaurant story,” he said. “I think what’s happened, in this day and time, is that life has become really expensive. There’s no margins. The math just doesn’t work.”

Being in the Highlands was also a factor, Baidwan said. The desirable location comes with high rent as well as skyrocketing property taxes he’s been responsible for. Add in dwindling consumer spending and Baidwan said his hand was forced.

“Busy doesn’t always mean profitable,” he said. “A lot of people look through the window and assume the restaurant is good, and we have the several locations too. But it just isn’t like that anymore.”

Baidwan said there’s no plan to close his three other locations, in Cap Hill, Central Park and off Downing Street near the University of Denver. But that doesn’t mean he hasn’t been making tweaks.

At the original store off Sixth, he started operating 24/7 about eight months ago, something he’s thinking about for his other neighborhood restaurants. He’s also added entertainment, like jazz music and dancing, to help get more customers through the door.

Baidwan himself has also returned to the floor as a server — the first job he had at his parent’s store. But having the owner-operator model is difficult for his sprawling Little India empire since he can only be in so many places at once.

“The closure is about sustainability, to sustain what we have. It’s not surrender,” he said “It’s not that we’ve lost the passion of what we do so well. I mean, who does a vindaloo better than Little India?

“We’re really proud of what we built there, and this isn’t about failure,” he continued. “It’s about the reality that the economics of independent restaurants has changed dramatically.”

Read more from our partner, BusinessDen.

Get more business news by signing up for our Economy Now newsletter.