California
The California bar that hosted the outlaw Jesse James
San Miguel is a spot that most likely must be higher identified. Should you hint your finger up and down the map of mission cities on the Central Coast, the village is surrounded by extra sought-after locations.
San Luis Obispo is about 35 miles to the south, whereas one other 90 miles south is Santa Barbara. Carmel is 107 miles to the northwest. And but San Miguel, anchored by a mission based in 1797, by no means fairly grew into the specified vacation spot that its coastal counterparts did.
However it has a declare to fame that none of its extra well-known neighbors have: The Elkhorn Bar is rife with ghost tales and folklore, together with being one-time host to Jesse and Frank James, the infamous bank-robbing brothers who briefly sought respite on the Central Coast early of their profession. It additionally lays declare to being the second oldest bar in California in steady operation within the state (the oldest one is reportedly the Iron Door Saloon in Groveland, simply exterior Yosemite).
“There’s nothing improper with second,” jokes Elkhorn patron Jeff Schultz. “We’ll allow them to have it. So long as we’re right here, we’re completely happy.”
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Whereas the Iron Door traces its lineage in a small, concrete bunker-like constructing again to 1849, the Elkhorn dates again to 1853. The existence of the bar itself, Schultz notes, pre-dates the present constructing’s official opening within the early 1850s.
“It was a tent for a few years serving whiskey,” he explains, “then the constructing got here alongside, and, you recognize, all of the tales together with it.”
Housed in a flat-fronted, frontier-style constructing, the surface decor is ornate, with neon indicators and a stone and wooden visage that beckons all comers to enter the dimly lit but inviting internal sanctum.
As soon as inside, the Elkhorn’s historic bar high showcases all of the scars and pockmarks one would affiliate with generations of use. Earlier than it’s a lineup of cozy stools with black vinyl seats, and a full array of spirits and beers on faucet is behind it. Off to the aspect, a lounge space is organized round a wood-burning range that’s sparked to life each afternoon within the fall and winter months and fills the area with an alluring gentle and warmth.
On the partitions, greater than a century and a half of memorabilia collected from space ranches contains ornamental barbed wire and branding irons. Additionally protecting watch over the patrons are the requisite classic neon beer indicators, images of patrons previous and current together with the bar’s unofficial mascot: a glass-eyed taxidermied coyote who sports activities a neckerchief, a medallion and a straw cowboy hat with an ace of spades displaying on the brim. Within the again, a pool room with a number of tables is scored by the fixed thwack, clack of balls careening off felt bumpers, punctuated by the occasional shout over a well-placed (or fortunate) shot. The area within the rear can also be the place bigger teams congregate for personal events and receptions.
The story of the Elkhorn in its present iteration is very similar to another beloved bar in another a part of the nation. There’s a jukebox, a locals completely happy hour beginning round 3 p.m., karaoke on Fridays, inside jokes and tales of affection misplaced and friendships cast — and an entire lot of near-misses in between.
With ease, patrons slip into discussing the newest shared trauma, the early days of the pandemic, which they are saying nearly took their beloved Elkhorn out for good. However in some way, due to the implementation of some artistic workarounds, together with opening the entrance sidewalk space for these eager to devour at a secure distance or decide up to-go orders, it’s nonetheless right here, nonetheless going after nearly 170 years.
Although simply minutes off the 239A exit off Freeway 101, the bar stays a “secret until you discover it,” says bartender Crystle Burton, on the Elkhorn for a drink on her break day. For these in San Miguel, being ignored has its benefits, specifically remaining inexpensive and one thing of a thriller to outsiders.
“There’s a draw right here, a curiosity about it for positive,” Burton continues. “It’s an enormous cease for individuals on the way in which to SF or LA. Everybody says some model of, ‘We didn’t know this was right here and it’s nice.’ There’s no fakeness to it. We’re not in a strip mall. They all the time cease. And once they cease as soon as, they arrive again.
“Some individuals don’t essentially know why. They only pulled over. They discover us.”
Although celebrities from Josh Brolin to Ron Jeremy are stated to have stopped by, the bar’s most well-known patrons are the James brothers, who reportedly discovered themselves bellied as much as the Elkhorn bar whereas residing within the space for a spell on their uncle Drury James’ 15,000-acre La Panza ranch.
Drury, a distinguished resident within the space and one of many founders of Paso Robles, hosted the James boys beginning in mid-1868 after they robbed a financial institution in Russellville, Kentucky. To flee the warmth, the pair arrived individually. Frank got here by prepare and stagecoach and settled within the space earlier than Jesse, who traveled to New York and took a pair of steamers that landed him in San Francisco. When Jesse arrived on the Central Coast that summer season, he was nonetheless nursing a bullet wound within the chest from the Russellville theft.
For a 12 months, the pair went to work as ranch palms, utilizing pseudonyms. Jesse was stated to have benefited from the therapeutic waters of the pure sizzling springs on his uncle’s property. Although native regulation enforcement knew of their presence, they have been left alone.
“It’s robust to say what actually went on, whether or not they rode into city a time or two for a drink right here,” Schultz says, “It is dependent upon who you ask and the way a lot they’ve had themselves. However on the similar time, oh sure, they benefited from having a wealthy uncle round.”
After their respite on the Central Coast, Jesse and Frank returned dwelling to Missouri and on Dec. 7, 1869, robbed the Daviess County Financial savings Affiliation in Gallatin. Through the theft Jesse was stated to have shot and killed financial institution employee Capt. John Sheets. In a case of mistaken id, James thought Sheets was Samuel P. Cox, the Union officer who killed his mentor William “Bloody Invoice” Anderson — who was, based on PBS, a “sociopath who lived for spilling blood.”
The theft and killing was the brothers’ most infamous act thus far and shortly they have been thrust into the nationwide highlight. They continued to rob within the southeast and midwest till April 3, 1882, when James was shot behind the top by certainly one of his personal gang, Robert Ford, who sought to gather a bounty for the infamous outlaw.
Its Wild West days having come and gone, the Elkhorn throughout Prohibition briefly referred to as itself a barber store. The Elkhorn has a historical past of utilizing artistic strategies to skirt liquor legal guidelines, and nonetheless has a entice door hidden in plain sight adjoining to its east wall, a testomony to a time when alcohol needed to be introduced in and consumed in a extra clandestine method.
Throughout World Struggle II, close by Camp Roberts swelled with troopers coaching and ready for abroad deployment. The Elkhorn’s earlier proprietor, Gary Brown, advised Smithsonian Journal that the city was host to 14 bars and 13 brothels in that period. “For a few of these guys, this was one of many final locations they ever have been,” he stated.
However after the warfare, the city of two,500 went again to its sleepy methods. Whereas a handful of eating places and retailers nonetheless dot the principle drag, the largest occasions are often the weddings or anniversary events that happen throughout the weekends on the mission’s new parish corridor 1 / 4 mile from the bar’s entrance.
Contained in the bar right now, the locals stay, and the Elkhorn involves life and frequently hits capability early on weekend evenings. A shared historical past — one that always crosses over into familial ties — binds them collectively by instances of celebration and tragedy.
“I misplaced my mom and father and brother all inside a few 12 months,” says Regan Lopez, whose brother was additionally Burton’s husband. “We had their memorials right here, their footage are proper there on the again wall.
“Whoever we’re, no matter we do — it begins and ends right here.”