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What I Learned on a Denali Land Tour of Alaska

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What I Learned on a Denali Land Tour of Alaska


by Susan Young
Last updated: 12:00 PM ET, Sat July 12, 2025
McKinley Express tour through Alaska

McKinley Express tour through Alaska. (Photo Credit: Susan Young)

As a travel writer, I’ve cruised Alaska several times but never included the Holland America Denali Cruisetour package.

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Previous experiences involved round-trip itineraries from Seattle or Vancouver. This time was different and gave me a new perspective on the amazing adventures of the land and sea itinerary.

The cruise began in Vancouver on the Nieuw Amsterdam, with stops in Ketchikan, Juneau and Skagway, along with sea days spent visiting Glacier Bay National Park and College Fjord. The seven-day itinerary ended in Whittier, adding a stay at the Holland America Denali Lodge. There are several versions of the land portion available. Ours was the D2C 11-Day Signature Denali, including three nights at the lodge.

Room at the Denali Lodge

Room at the Denali Lodge. (Photo Credit: Susan Young)

After seven days of cruising, we pulled into Whittier, disembarked early and boarded the McKinley Explorer to Denali. The domed coach train is located adjacent to the port, a short walk from the ship. Our cruise package included specific seats on the second level of the rail car with comfortable accommodations and 360-degree views during the eight- to nine-hour trip.

Breakfast and lunch are provided in the dining area below, and you will be free to wander the rail car with plenty of spaces and platforms to take in the views of the route north to Denali. There is a small lift available for those with mobility issues. Attendants in each car knowledgeably narrated portions of the route and offered drinks and snacks along the way.

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With stops in Talkeetna and Anchorage, the train moved at a leisurely pace, sometimes reaching 60 mph, with amazing views and stories of people living off the grid in the region. We passed the humble home of Shannon Cartwright, a children’s book illustrator, who has worked without a computer for decades. Her relationship with crew on the Explorer grew as she would hop on to take her creations to Anchorage for publication and ride back to her home in the woods.

Nenana River

Nenana River. (Photo Credit: Susan Young)

Upon arrival at Denali, we boarded a bus for the 15-minute ride to Holland America’s Denali Lodge where we were delivered to our quarters, located on the Nenana River. The massive campus starts at the top of a hill with the Main Lodge and works its way down to the river with multiple lodgings along the way.

In the center of the campus lies Denali Square, which houses Karsten’s Public House, providing Alaskan comfort food options like beer-battered halibut, Beecher’s mac and cheese and craft brews. Ship favorites, like the Dive-In Burger, can also be found, along with an endless breakfast buffet.

The Main Lodge houses the Canyon Ridge Grill, with a menu resembling the ship’s Pinnacle Grill, including their infamous Clothesline Candied Bacon, in addition to regional favorites with a Denali spin. Cafes offer coffee choices as well as boxed lunches to take along on lengthy excursions. We were also offered the choice of having a pizza delivered to our room, for a relaxing respite on our porch overlooking the river.

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Clothesline Candied Bacon at Canyon Ridge Grill

Clothesline Candied Bacon at Canyon Ridge Grill. (Photo Credit: Susan Young)

Another option for an evening meal, in the Square, is The Music of Denali Dinner Theater at the Golden Nugget Saloon. Learn about Alaska history while enjoying the talents of singers belting out original musical comedy while dining on Alaskan salmon, smokehouse barbecue and all the fixings. Dinner is served family-style and there is plenty of it.

Throughout the lodge campus, we found shuttle stops, offering ride options to any point on the property. There are also several foot trails meandering along the river and up to the Main Lodge. The Denali National Park Visitors’ Center is only a mile from the lodge which offers complimentary shuttle service to and from the Center. There is also a mile-long hiking trail to the Center from the Main Lodge.

Beyond Mile 15, Denali National Park does not allow personal vehicles, only private outfitters and approved tour buses. The Tundra Wilderness Tour is a five- to six-hour narrated bus tour of the park (and not to be missed), up to Mile 43 and back. Currently, the road is closed past this point, due to an ongoing landslide blocking the only route available through the park.

View from McKinley Express

View from McKinley Express. (Photo Credit: Susan Young)

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Sightings of Mount Denali are few as the mountain peaks are often shrouded in clouds. Our driver-naturalist spotted an opening and stopped so we all could observe the tallest, most majestic mountain in North America. He also stopped the bus when sighting Dall sheep on the hillside, or the caribou and ever-elusive moose.

Numerous excursions for all ages are available, which makes this trip the perfect multi-generational vacation destination. Everything from zip-lining, fly-fishing and mountainside golfing to ATV adventures and even an Arctic Circle flight experience. The opportunity for quiet hikes along the Nenana River or loving on musher puppies at the Main Lodge are also options.

Musher puppies with the author

Musher puppies with the author. (Photo Credit: Susan Young)

After three nights at the Lodge, we were transported, by bus, to Anchorage. The six-hour trip, in a comfortable motorcoach, was also occasionally narrated. Taking us through Wasilla, we stopped at Settlers Bay Lodge for a buffet sandwich lunch and a chance to stretch our legs.

At the end of our journey, we were dropped off at the Hilton Anchorage for an overnight stay before catching our flight. To top off the trip, we took advantage of the extended daylight hours and hopped on the Anchorage Trolley Tours for an educational evening ride through the city. Listening to stories about the devastating 1964 earthquake, and the culture of the region, opened our eyes to the history of Alaska’s largest city.

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The experience of traversing the vast beauty of Denali National Park after spending a week gazing at glaciers on the cruise was the perfect balance of land and sea exploration. Regardless of age or mobility, this immersive opportunity is not to be missed.


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Over $150K worth of drugs seized from man in Juneau, police say

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Over 0K worth of drugs seized from man in Juneau, police say


JUNEAU, Alaska (KTUU) – An Alaska drug task force seized roughly $162,000 worth of controlled substances during an operation in Juneau Thursday, according to the Juneau Police Department.

Around 3 p.m. Thursday, investigators with the Southeast Alaska Cities Against Drugs (SEACAD) approached 50-year-old Juneau resident Jermiah Pond in the Nugget Mall parking lot while he was sitting in his car, according to JPD.

A probation search of the car revealed a container holding about 7.3 gross grams of a substance that tested presumptively positive for methamphetamine, as well as about 1.21 gross grams of a substance that tested presumptively positive for fentanyl.

As part of the investigation, investigators executed a search warrant at Pond’s residence, during which they found about 46.63 gross grams of ketamine, 293.56 gross grams of fentanyl, 25.84 gross grams of methamphetamine and 25.5 gross grams of MDMA.

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In all, it amounted to just less than a pound of drugs worth $162,500.

Investigators also seized $102,640 in cash and multiple recreational vehicles believed to be associated with the investigation.

Pond was lodged on charges of second-degree misconduct involving a controlled substance, two counts of third-degree misconduct involving a controlled substance, five counts of fourth-degree misconduct involving a substance and an outstanding felony probation warrant.

See a spelling or grammar error? Report it to web@ktuu.com

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Sand Point teen found 3 days after going missing in lake

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Sand Point teen found 3 days after going missing in lake


SAND POINT, Alaska (KTUU) – A teenage boy who was last seen Monday when the canoe he was in tipped over has been found by a dive team in a lake near Sand Point, according to a person familiar with the situation.

Alaska’s News Source confirmed with the person, who is close to the search efforts, that the dive team found 15-year-old Kaipo Kaminanga deceased Thursday in Red Cove Lake, located a short drive from the town of Sand Point on the Aleutian Island chain.

Kaminanga was last seen canoeing with three other friends on Monday when the boat tipped over.

A search and rescue operation ensued shortly after.

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Alaska Dive Search Rescue and Recovery Team posted on Facebook Thursday night that they were able to “locate and recover” Kaminanga at around 5 p.m. Thursday.

“We are glad we could bring closure to his family, friends and community,” the post said.

This is a breaking news story and will be updated when more details become available.

See a spelling or grammar error? Report it to web@ktuu.com

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Opinion: Homework for Alaska: Sales tax or income tax?

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Opinion: Homework for Alaska: Sales tax or income tax?


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This is a tax tutorial for gubernatorial candidates, for legislators who will report to work next year and for the Alaska public.

Think of it as homework, with more than eight months to complete the assignment that is not due until the November election. The homework is intended to inform, not settle the debate over a state sales tax or state income tax — or neither, which is the preferred option for many Alaskans.

But for those Alaskans willing to consider a tax as a personal responsibility to help fund schools, roads, public safety, child care, state troopers, prisons, foster care and everything else necessary for healthy and productive lives, someday they will need to decide on a state income tax or a state sales tax after they accept the checkbook reality that oil and Permanent Fund earnings are not enough.

This homework assignment is intended to get people thinking with facts, not emotions. Electing the right candidates will be the first test.

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Alaskans have until the next election because nothing will change this year. It will take a new political alignment led by a reality-based governor to organize support in the Legislature and among the public.

But next year, maybe, with the right elected leadership, Alaskans can debate a state sales tax or personal income tax. Plus, of course, corporate taxes and oil production taxes, but those are for another school day.

One of the biggest arguments in favor of a state sales tax is that visitors would pay it. Yes, they would, but not as much as many Alaskans think.

Air travel is exempt from sales taxes. So are cruise ship tickets. That’s federal law, which means much of what tourists spend on their Alaska vacation is beyond the reach of a state sales tax.

Cutting further into potential revenues, state and federal law exempts flightseeing tours from sales tax, which is a particularly costly exemption when you think about how much visitors spend on airplane and helicopter tours.

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That leaves sales tax supporters collecting from tourists on T-shirts, gifts for grandchildren, artwork, postcards, hotels, Airbnb, car rentals and restaurant meals. Still a substantial take for taxes, but far short of total tourism spending.

An argument against a state sales tax is that more than 100 cities and boroughs already depend on local sales taxes to pay for schools and other public services. Try to imagine what a state tax piled on top of a local tax would do to kill shopping in Homer, already at 7.85%, or Kodiak, Wrangell and Cordova, all at 7%, and all the other municipalities.

Supporters of an income tax say it would share the responsibility burden with nonresidents who earn income in Alaska and then return home to spend their money.

Almost one in four workers in Alaska in 2024 were nonresidents, as reported by the state Department of Labor in January. That doesn’t include federal employees, active-duty military or self-employed people.

Nonresidents earned roughly $3.8 billion, or about 17% of every dollar covered in the report.

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However, many of those nonresident workers are lower-wage and seasonal, employed in the seafood processing and tourism industries, unlikely to pay much in income taxes. But a tax could be structured so that they pay something, which is fair.

Meanwhile, higher-wage workers in oil and gas, mining, construction and airlines (freight and passenger service) would pay taxes on their income earned in Alaska, which also is fair.

It comes down to what would direct more of the tax burden to nonresidents: a tax on income or on visitor spending. Wages or wasabi-crusted salmon dinners.

Larry Persily is a longtime Alaska journalist, with breaks for federal, state and municipal public policy work in Alaska and Washington, D.C. He lives in Anchorage and is publisher of the Wrangell Sentinel weekly newspaper.

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