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A tiny Arctic village in Alaska is trying to revive its polar bear tourism industry

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A tiny Arctic village in Alaska is trying to revive its polar bear tourism industry


ANCHORAGE, Alaska — Late every summer, hulking white bears gather outside a tiny Alaska Native village on the edge of the continent, far above the Arctic Circle, to feast on whale carcasses left behind by hunters and to wait for the deep cold to freeze the sea.

It’s a spectacle that once brought 1,000 or more tourists each year to Kaktovik, the only settlement in the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge, in a phenomenon sometimes called “last chance tourism” — a chance to see magnificent sights and creatures before climate change renders them extinct.

The COVID-19 pandemic and an order from the federal government halting boat tours to see the bears largely ended Kaktovik’s polar bear tourism amid concerns that the tiny village was being overrun by outsiders.

But Kaktovik leaders are now hoping to revive it, saying it could be worth millions to the local economy and give residents another source of income — provided the village can set guidelines that protect its way of life and the bears themselves.

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“We definitely see the benefit for tourism,” said Charles Lampe, president of the Kaktovik Inupiat Corp, which owns 144 square miles (373 square kilometers) of land. “The thing is, it can’t be run like it was before.”

Visitors overwhelm a tiny village

As far back as the early 1980s, anyone in Kaktovik with a boat and knowledge of the waters could take a few tourists out to watch the bears as they lumbered across the flat, treeless barrier islands just off the coast or tore into the ribs of a bowhead whale left by subsistence hunters.

Tourism in Kaktovik soared in the years after federal officials declared polar bears a threatened species in 2008. The rapid warming of the Arctic is melting the sea ice that the bears use to hunt seals, and scientists have said that most polar bears could be wiped out by the end of the century.

This photo provided by Roger MacKertich shows polar bears lying on a barrier island Sept. 18, 2019, near Kaktovik, Alaska. Credit: AP/Roger MacKertich

As visitation boomed, the federal government imposed regulations requiring tour operators to have permits and insurance, and that began to squeeze locals out of the industry, Lampe said. Larger out-of-town operators moved in, and before long, crowds of tourists were coming to Kaktovik — a village of about 250 people — during the six-week viewing season.

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The town’s two hotels and restaurants lost out on some business when large operators began flying tourists in from Fairbanks or Anchorage for day trips. Locals complained that tourists gawked at them or traipsed through their yards.

Small plane capacity became an issue, with residents sometimes battling tourists to get on flights to or from larger cities for medical appointments, forcing those left stranded in the cities to get expensive hotel rooms for the night.

Renewing polar bear tourism, with changes

When the pandemic struck, Kaktovik paused visitation. Then in 2021, the federal government, which manages polar bears, halted boat tours, mostly over concerns about how tourists were affecting bear behavior and overrunning the town.

Charles Lampe, president of the Kaktovik Inupiat Corporation, poses for...

Charles Lampe, president of the Kaktovik Inupiat Corporation, poses for a portrait outside his home in Kaktovik, Alaska, Wednesday, Oct. 16, 2024. Credit: AP/Lindsey Wasson

Alaska Native leaders are now in talks with the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service to address those concerns and reignite the industry, perhaps as early as 2027. The agency told The Associated Press in a statement that it’s working with Kaktovik “to ensure that any future opportunities are managed in a way that prioritizes visitor safety, resource protection, and community input.”

Among the changes Kaktovik leaders want to see is a limit on how long a boat can sit in the water near the bears. Too long, Lampe said, and the bears get used to humans — making for a dangerous situation when bears wander into town looking for food.

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During the height of the tourism boom, it became tougher to haze bears out of town, even with the town’s bear patrol shooting at them with nonlethal rounds. The patrol had to kill about three or four bears per year, compared with maybe one per year before the boom, Lampe said.

“Our safety was at risk,” Lampe said.

In 2023, a 24-year-old woman and her 1-year-old son were killed in a polar bear attack in Wales, in far western Alaska. It was the first fatal polar bear attack in nearly 30 years in Alaska, the only U.S. state home to the species.

Since the boat tours in Kaktovik were halted, the bears once again seem more fearful of humans, Lampe said.

Encouraging respectful visits in the Arctic

Polar bear tourism coincides with Kaktovik’s subsistence whaling season. When a crew lands a whale, it’s usually butchered on a nearby beach. While the community encourages visitors to watch or even help, some were recording or taking pictures without permission, which is considered disrespectful, Lampe said.

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Sherry Rupert, CEO of the American Indigenous Tourism Association, suggested that Kaktovik market itself as a two- or three-day experience.

Native communities that are ready for tourists “want them to come and be educated and walk away with a greater understanding of our people and our way of life and our culture,” she said.

Roger and Sonia MacKertich of Australia were looking for the best spot on the planet to view polar bears in the wild when they came to Kaktovik in September 2019. They spent several days in the village, took a walking tour led by an elder and bought souvenirs made by local artists, including a hoodie featuring a polar bear.

For Roger MacKertich, a professional wildlife photographer based in Sydney, the highlight was the boat tours to see bears roaming on the barrier islands or taking a dip in the water. The bears paid them no attention.

“That’s nearly as good as it gets,” he said.

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Best solution to Alaska’s PFD ‘gorilla’ is to end the program with $10K payout, Walker argues

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Best solution to Alaska’s PFD ‘gorilla’ is to end the program with K payout, Walker argues


Former Gov. Bill Walker, running to again be Alaska’s top elected official, would like to end the Permanent Fund dividend program with a one-time $10,000 payment to each eligible Alaskan.

“We are in this to solve significant issues,” Walker said in a phone interview Friday. “Business as usual just isn’t going to work.”

Alaska has faced a structural deficit — that is, more expenses than revenue — for years. A sharp decline in oil prices in the mid-2010s, during Walker’s first term in office, led him to take the unprecedented step of vetoing part of the Permanent Fund dividend in 2016. Ever since, lawmakers have spent much of their energy each year wrangling over the amount of the dividend.

Though Gov. Mike Dunleavy proposed a dividend in line with a 1980s statute in each of his annual budget proposals, lawmakers consistently approved far smaller payouts — $1,000 last year, and $1,200 this year — with legislators on both sides of the aisle saying the dividend formula is no longer realistic.

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“The dividend discussion has been the 600-pound gorilla in the room,” said Randy Hoffbeck, Walker’s former revenue commissioner and running mate.

With the existing formula calling for “financially impossible” dividends, there are two choices, Hoffbeck said.

“We can cage the gorilla with a new formula that better reflects our current economic situation and our fiscal situation, or we can actually remove the gorilla from the room,” he said.

Walker envisions asking Alaskans to endorse the idea with a question on the application for the 2027 Permanent Fund dividend, he said.

“If it’s overwhelmingly, ‘Yes, we like it,’ then we would proceed to the Legislature with legislation,” Walker said. “If it’s not, then we will continue with, probably, looking at a formulaic modification in some way that reflects our current fiscal situation.”

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Alaskans would be free to spread the payment over multiple years to avoid a large tax bill, Walker said. And it would be a one-time offer in an effort to avoid people moving to Alaska on a short-term basis to cash in.

“If we paid it out in 2027, people would already have to be here to be eligible,” Hoffbeck said.

Ending the dividend with a one-time $10,000 payment would certainly “stress” the fund, he said. With more than 618,000 applicants for the 2025 dividend, the plan would cost about $6.2 billion.

That’s roughly what would be left in the Permanent Fund’s earnings reserve account, which can be spent with a majority vote of the Legislature and the consent of the governor, after transfers for dividends, government services and inflation-proofing this year and next year, according to figures from the Alaska Permanent Fund Corp., which manages the state’s $89 billion nest egg.

“The $10,000 isn’t a random number,” Hoffbeck said. “It’s a calculated number on what is possible with the current earnings reserve balance.”

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But it would go a long way toward erasing the structural deficit, Hoffbeck said. He estimated that beginning in 2028, ending the deficit would free up about $1 billion in revenue.

“Even though it has a depressing effect on the (annual 5% draw), it’s more than offset from the benefits of not having to pay the dividend,” Hoffbeck said.

Walker’s proposal drew criticism from some of his competitors in the governor’s race. Democrat Tom Begich called the plan “fiscally irresponsible” and “fantastical,” comparing it to Dunleavy’s unfulfilled campaign promise to deliver full dividends. It’s the Legislature, not the governor, that sets the maximum amount of the dividend each year, Begich said.

“We may have underfunded education in this state, but Alaskans aren’t stupid,” Begich said.

Walker and Hoffbeck rejected the criticism, insisting the key difference is that their proposal would provide a one-time payment. They said they’d work with the Legislature to push the proposal through if elected.

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Trump administration to auction oil drilling rights in Alaska wildlife refuge

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Trump administration to auction oil drilling rights in Alaska wildlife refuge


The Trump administration on Friday will hold a sale of oil and gas leases on 689,000 acres (278,828 ‌hectares) in Alaska’s Arctic National Wildlife Refuge, a remote and pristine habitat for species including polar bear, caribou and migratory birds.



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Former Alaska corrections officer sentenced to 150 years in prison for killing wife and teen daughter

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Former Alaska corrections officer sentenced to 150 years in prison for killing wife and teen daughter


Jayla Blackshear, left, and her mother Raechyl Blackshear (Courtesy Elizabeth Coste)

A former Alaska corrections officer who pleaded guilty to the 2022 killings of his wife and daughter earlier this year was sentenced this week to 150 years in prison.

Anchorage Superior Court Judge Josie Garton on Tuesday sentenced Jalonni Blackshear to consecutive 75-year sentences for first- and second-degree murder in the 2022 killings of his wife, Raechyl Blackshear, and their 14-year-old daughter, Jayla, according to filings in the case.

The sentence came after Blackshear pleaded guilty to the charges in late January. Blackshear, in a plea agreement affidavit, said that he shot and killed his wife and daughter in their Scenic Foothills neighborhood home on April 4, 2022, amid a police investigation into suspicions that Blackshear had sexually abused his daughter.

The plea agreement called for a 150-year sentence, according to a May 11 sentencing memorandum signed by Assistant District Attorney Rachel Gernat.

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Jalonni Blackshear. (Photo courtesy of Anchorage Police Department)

Nearly a dozen other charges, including murder, sexual abuse of a minor and incest, were dismissed as part of the plea agreement with prosecutors, according to the memorandum.

Blackshear had a history of abusing and terrorizing his family, Gernat said in the memo. He shot his family members in the head to avoid prosecution on sexual abuse charges after he failed to coerce his daughter to recant statements given to Anchorage police about being sexually assaulted in late March of that year, she wrote.

In his plea agreement affidavit, Blackshear admitted that the murders were unprovoked and that he was likely to face charges for sexually abusing his daughter.

The mother and daughter were last seen on April 3, 2022, after Blackshear convinced his wife to take their daughter to Anchorage police to try to get her to retract her sexual assault allegations, prosecutors said.

Friends and family of 14-year-old Jayla Blackshear gathered at Anchorage’s Muldoon Park on April 23, 2022, to release balloons in her memory. The memorial was organized by students at Begich Middle School, where Jayla was a student. (Annie Berman / ADN)

Blackshear quit his job and fled Alaska several days later after he was charged with sexually abusing his daughter. Prosecutors said he used the mother and daughter’s phones to impersonate them in an effort to convince others they were alive.

Raechyl and Jayla Blackshear were found dead in the family home days later after Raechyl Blackshear missed a medical appointment, according to police. Tracking data from their phones led to Blackshear’s arrest in New York weeks later, according to prosecutors.

Blackshear was jailed at the Mat-Su Pretrial facility as of Thursday afternoon.

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