Inside Celebrity Chef Kwame Onwuachi’s Long-Awaited Return to D.C.

Most chefs prefer to sit down to discuss their upcoming restaurant in the space itself. But Kwame Onwuachi isn’t most chefs. Instead, the national culinary icon insisted on talking while walking as he played a few rounds on D.C.’s East Potomac public golf course last week. Over the duration of his 5 p.m. tee time, the Top Chef star told Eater all about his anticipated return to D.C.’s Southwest Waterfront dining scene in September.

At his new Afro-Caribbean restaurant Dōgon (pronounced “Doh-gon”), opening at the foot of the 373-room Salamander Washington DC on Monday, September 9, Onwuachi pays homage to D.C.’s legendary land surveyor Benjamin Banneker and his ancestral ties to the Dōgon tribe. Onwuachi’s menu explores both his own Nigerian, Jamaican, Trinidadian, and Creole heritage and D.C.’s melting pot of cultures through a “West African lens.”

“Everything is meant to be shared,” says Onwuachi. “I’m taking inspiration from everything from Korean to Ethiopian [cuisines].”

While Dōgon won’t usually be open on Mondays, September 9 signifies the date when D.C. was formally named in 1791. Gold chain curtains surrounding the stunning, 200-seat dining room reference the mathematical device Banneker used to map out city lines (1330 Maryland Avenue SW).

Onwuachi is best known locally for his time at the Wharf InterContinental’s long-closed Kith/Kin, and Dōgon marks the celebrity chef and author’s second act inside a posh hotel along the scenic Potomac River.

“It’s so emotional to be back,” he admits, while sporting Dōgon’s new black-and-gold cap on the course. “There’s lots of memories here, good and bad — but there’s a homecoming feel at the same time, similar to when I went back to New York.”

He returned to his NY roots in 2022 with the blockbuster opening of Tatiana, a high-end ode to the Bronx carryouts of his youth. Long wait lists and accolades quickly ensued, with New York Times restaurant critic Pete Wells giving the wildly successful Lincoln Center attraction a three-star review — and No. 1 title of the best restaurant in New York.

It was during his D.C. hiatus when he also fell in love with the game of golf; ever since his actor friend Adrian Homles — who plays Uncle Phil on Peacock’s modern-day TV series Bel-Air — took him to his first driving range, he was hooked. “It’s so serene — you’re in nature and can’t be on your phone,” he says. In between taking swings and bites of his “fucking good” $5 half-smoke from the course’s on-site cafe Potomac Grille, he adds: “This is the first time I’ve had work-life balance.”

The night before, he previewed Dōgon’s full menu for the first time during a private tasting with Salamander CEO Sheila Johnson. The duo’s fourth annual Family Reunion is this weekend at Salamander Middleburg, where 40 of his chef friends (plus surprise musicians) gather to celebrate diversity in the hospitality industry. He reveals he first met the billionaire businesswoman six years ago “very randomly,” after delivering a speech at a Bahamas wedding convention. “I was very candidly myself and cursing,” he recalls. “She was the only person who got up at the end, saying ‘You’re real. I like you.’”

Maybe it’s his newest outdoor hobby, or simply the culinary confidence that comes with more years in the kitchen, but the 34-year-old chef appears to be fully at ease and in control as he undertakes his next big project. After his first D.C. restaurant Shaw Bijou famously fizzled fast in 2016, the pressure was on to make Kith/Kin deliver at the Wharf (it did, of course, earning him the 2019 James Beard Award for Rising Chef and critical acclaim for his refined approach to jollof rice, oxtails, and curried goat).

“I just feel more mature and not so obsessive over it, unlike the last time when I was in the public eye. I was still a kid growing up,” he says, of opening his first restaurant at age 26. “This one is super special to me.”

He’s amassed a dream team of talent to debut Dōgon, which includes his former Kith/Kin chef Martel Stone and beverage director Derek Brown, the pioneering D.C. mixologist who founded Columbia Room.

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The vision for Dōgon predates Tatiana, going back four years ago when he was researching how big of an impact Banneker made on the nation’s capital. “I was like, ‘this is incredible.’ This Black man was hired by George-fucking-Washington — how good did he have to be at his job to be hired back then at the beginning of time?”

Banneker, a largely self-educated mathematician, astronomer, and urban planner, turned to the starry night sky as a geographical guide.

“D.C. wouldn’t even have a capital without West African science as we know it today. So why not tell the story? All the dishes are inspired by that,” he says.

As far as what Dōgon’s destination one will be, he always leaves that up to the guests; he didn’t anticipate Tatiana’s greatest hits to be its tender short rib pastrami suya or “bodega special” featuring a Cosmic Brownie. (Turns out, no one ended up ordering his hopeful signature: a hot pocket.)

“Honestly, I’m just trying to cook some good food — that’s always my goal,” he says.

Surrounded by swaying willows, views of DCA planes flying in, and sounds of squawking geese on the 18th hole, his randomly-matched golf partner of the day finally realized he was playing with a famous chef the entire time. “Holy shit, I just Googled you,” he says. “You’re the answer on today’s Washingtonian crossword puzzle.”

To which, Onwuachi quipped back: “I’m just an amateur golfer, man.”

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