The verdict on 3 new Atlanta restaurants: Dumpling Factory, La Glorieta, and Nàdair

Dumpling Factory
Sometimes, when a craving for Asian dumplings strikes, downtown traffic can make Buford Highway seem so far away. But the famed Northern China Eatery in Doraville has brought its signature recipes, plus steamer baskets aplenty, to an offshoot on the Westside.

Dumpling Factory is located in the food-and-drink enclave at the Westside Paper development, joining El Santo Gallo, Pancake Social, and King of Pops, among others. Fans of Northern China Eatery might consider this a place to savor the restaurant’s greatest hits, without the sometimes-long waits. Enter from the courtyard and you’re smack-dab in front of the order counter, with a clear view to the bustling kitchen. There, cooks crank out handmade dumplings, filled buns, “juicy” soup buns, and pot stickers, plus stir-fried rice, hot and cold noodle dishes, soups, and more.

Takeout business is brisk, but a scallion pancake doesn’t always travel well, so opt for the casual dining room if time allows. The space is bright, with sky-blue walls, tall windows, comfy booths, wooden banquettes, and high-top tables. The dangling red lanterns, potted orchids, and charming dumpling illustrations add a cheery touch, but your attention will likely be drawn to what’s in front of you: spicy Sichuan dan dan noodles; hefty steamed pork buns; pork and chive dumplings; crab roe soup dumplings; beef and carrot dumplings; tiger salad (green pepper, cilantro, and cucumber); shrimp fried rice; wonton soup; pan-fried lamb and zucchini dumplings; or chicken and corn pot stickers, to name a few of the many ways to load your table and share with friends (or not).

If you love dumplings and buns, you can’t order too many here. They come steamed, pan-fried, or boiled, with black vinegar and chili oil sauces on the side. It’s like dim sum till you drop. The restaurant does not serve alcohol, but Elsewhere Brewing’s Greenhouse Taproom is next door, and diners are welcome to bring their drafts in with them. Westside

La Glorieta
On the corner of a sleepy strip mall in Tucker sits a tropical gem serving comforting, soulful Honduran food that translates easily. Manager Isis Cornejo runs the restaurant owned by her Honduran husband, Nelson Flores, and his brother, Edgardo Flores. Their friendly, all-Honduran crew cooks street food (“La Glorieta” means “little kiosk,” explains Isis) that is typical of the Central American country—a place with both Caribbean and Pacific coastlines and cuisine influenced by African, Caribbean, European, and Indigenous cultures. Popular choices include baleadas (tortillas filled with a smear of refried red beans, queso duro, and crema, plus add-ons such as avocado, egg, chicken, or steak); pollo chuco, a dish of fried green bananas with fried chicken, cabbage, chismol (vegetable salsa with lime juice), pickled red onion, and dressing; and tacos dorados (made with chicken or steak). Aguas frescas in such flavors as pineapple and jamaica (hibiscus) are a perfect refresher. Big bottles of Jutiquile Sabor Olanchano, an aged hot sauce from Honduras, top each table. Tucker, (770) 864-1011

Nàdair
You need not know a whit about Scottish cuisine to appreciate Kevin Gillespie’s seasonal menu, memento-filled bar, and tartan-accented dining room—all honoring not only the chef’s family heritage but his Southern sensibilities as well. Nàdair (the Scots Gaelic word for “the way of nature”) now reigns in the former Floataway Cafe space. As you approach, the only signage is a mounted brass-and-bronze crest of a lion near the front door. Once you’re inside, a Celtic-huntsman’s vibe prevails in a bar with framed family tartans, grouse and pheasant illustrations, and mounted deer antlers. (Gillespie has even taken to wearing a kilt when cooking nightly at the restaurant.) Winning signature cocktails (the basil gimlet is divine) are a nice prelude to ordering a la carte at the bar. Making reservations is a must, however, for the full prix fixe dinner experience. Must-tries: wood oven–roasted Georgia mushrooms, wood-grilled Wagyu beef coulotte, grilled scallop and peach-glazed pork belly, and Grandma Coylene’s banoffee pie (salted graham crumble, toffee sauce, fried banana, and white chocolate cream). Scene-stealer: the Aberdeen Buttery, a stunning knotted dinner roll from sous-chef Olivia McCoy. North Druid Hills

This article appears in our October 2024 issue.

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