Vermont
Montpelier VT distillery elevated its food menu, leading to James Beard Award finals
MONTPELIER ― The forced break during the COVID-19 pandemic gave management at Barr Hill the chance to reset. If the distillery is known for award-winning spirits, shouldn’t the new facility in Vermont’s state capital have a food and hospitality program to match?
Patrick Amice, who described himself as a longtime “friend” of the brand, received a call from Barr Hill in late 2021. Would he be willing to relocate from New Jersey to Vermont to become Barr Hill’s general manager of hospitality operations?
For someone who had been visiting Vermont for years to enjoy the state’s refreshing natural setting and world-renowned craft beers, the answer was not complicated. Amice arrived at Barr Hill in January of 2022 and began overseeing the bar/distillery’s addition of a restaurant offering small plates of locally sourced food, ramping up Barr Hill’s focus on hospitality.
“They knew in hiring me that that’s what I brought to the table,” said Amice, who had worked in New Jersey at a wine shop/liquor store that carried Barr Hill products as well as at a restaurant affiliated with a highly regarded brewery.
Two years later, the transformation paid high-profile dividends. Barr Hill is a finalist for Outstanding Bar in the James Beard Awards, the top prize in the American restaurant and hospitality world. Barr Hill joins bars from Baltimore, New Orleans, San Francisco and Brownsville, Texas, in the category that will see winners announced at the award ceremony June 10.
The nomination, according to Amice, acknowledges the prime emphasis since he arrived at Barr Hill − “hospitality at the highest level.”
Highlighted by honey
The distillery has its roots in 2011 in the Northeast Kingdom, where parent company Caledonia Spirits began in Hardwick. All production of the company’s spirits has now moved to the facility that five years ago opened off Barre Street a short drive from downtown Montpelier.
Barr Hill’s eponymous gin is distilled with juniper and honey as is the company’s Tom Cat gin, which is aged in barrels and resembles a “gin-meets-whiskey hybrid,” according to Amice. The company also produces vodka and, as of December, a rye whiskey called Phyllis that’s sold under the Caledonia Spirits brand. All the company’s products are made with Vermont grains, according to Amice.
Honey is the key ingredient for Barr Hill, which Amice said lends a unique, rum-like versatility to its spirits. Honey is a theme for this year’s James Beard Award finalists from Vermont: Executive chef/co-owner Cara Tobin of Honey Road in Burlington is a finalist for Best Chef: Northeast for her restaurant named in part for a famed honey-producing region of Turkey.
Sourcing from Vermont farms
Amice majored in accounting and finance at Rider University in New Jersey but realized quickly he didn’t want to spend his working life sitting behind a desk. He worked at a wine shop/liquor store called Princeton Corkscrew where Caledonia Spirits co-founder Todd Hardie came to bring Barr Hill products. (Barr Hill now distributes in 35 states.) Amice established a rapport with Barr Hill’s representatives and watched from afar as the brand grew in stature, winning national and international honors.
Amice honed his hospitality skills at Brick Farm Tavern in Hopewell, New Jersey, on the grounds of award-winning Troon Brewing. The New Jersey native felt the lure of Vermont, though, heading north often to hike and swim and enjoy the state’s food and drink scene. He moved to Vermont just over two years ago with his girlfriend, Bernadette Pearson, a fellow alum of Brick Farm Tavern who is now head chef at Prohibition Pig in Waterbury.
Barr Hill’s previous food options, according to Amice, consisted primarily of a food truck and a few items that could be heated up easily. The company wanted to raise its dining offerings to the level of its spirits and cocktails and began that transformation once Amice arrived in early 2022.
Barr Hill hired Brandon Arms, a veteran of the Boston dining scene who most recently worked at Michael’s on the Hill in Waterbury Center, to serve as the distillery’s chef. He oversees a menu emphasizing sharable bites and ingredients sourced largely from Vermont farms. The menu on a recent Friday included maple roasted carrots, a Vermont cheese board and crispy pork belly glazed with Tom Cat gin. Barr Hill works to pair its cocktails with its dishes, Amice said.
“It’s really endless” what Vermont farmers provide, according to Amice. “We can create so many things with these flavors.”
‘A team award’
Barr Hill learned April 3 that it made the James Beard Award finals but had little time to celebrate. That was five days before the total eclipse that drew thousands of visitors to Vermont and hundreds of customers to Barr Hill to mark the celestial occasion.
The nomination comes as a direct result of Barr Hill hiring Amice to ramp up its hospitality, but he said the honor is about Barr Hill’s 20 hospitality employees buying into what he and the company are preaching, namely “What can we do to help and what can we do to make it better?” Barr Hill’s staff members, according to Amice, stay positive no matter how difficult and stressful their days are.
“It doesn’t go unnoticed by me how hard that can be,” said Amice, a former bartender himself.
Amice and company co-founder/head distiller Ryan Christiansen are going to Chicago for the award ceremony.
“I would love to bring the team because it’s a team award,” according to Amice. But after Memorial Day, he said, it’s Barr Hill’s prime season, and the distillery can’t shut down or part with that many staffers if it wants to maintain its level of hospitality.
If you go
WHAT: Barr Hill distillery/bar/restaurant
WHEN: 4-8 p.m. Monday and Wednesday-Thursday, 2-9 p.m. Friday, noon-9 p.m. Saturday, noon-7 p.m. Sunday
WHERE: 116 Gin Lane, Montpelier
INFORMATION: (802) 472-8000, www.barrhill.com
Anniversary celebration
WHAT: Five-year “Ginniversary” celebration featuring special tastings, distillery-only releases and live music from Nick Cassarino and opening act Baby Fearn and the Plants
WHEN: Noon-8 p.m. Saturday, June 29 (music from 4-7 p.m.)
WHERE: Barr Hill, 116 Gin Lane, Montpelier
INFORMATION: Free. (802) 472-8000, www.barrhill.com
Contact Brent Hallenbeck at bhallenbeck@freepressmedia.com.
Vermont
Vermont Fish and Wildlife Board rejects bear baiting proposals
Vermont’s Fish and Wildlife Board voted 11-1 last week to reject two controversial bids from hunters to establish a season for hunting black bears with bait.
The vote comes as state wildlife officials revisit Vermont’s bear regulations in light of what state scientists say is a growing bear population and a rise in bear-human conflict in recent years.
“I think everybody in this room tonight wants a similar outcome, which is a healthy population of black bears in Vermont,” said John Austin, who leads the Vermont Fish and Wildlife Department’s wildlife division, speaking at the May 20 board meeting.
The first petition, filed by the Vermont Bowhunters Association, called for Vermont to establish a fall baiting season similar to those in Maine in New Hampshire.
A second petition filed by hunters Kevin Lawrence and Bert Saldi echoed that request and asked regulators to extend the regular bear season in the fall and allow hunters to get two bear tags instead of one.
Right now, Vermont has two bear seasons — one in the spring and one in the fall. Hunters can pursue bears with rifles, by archery or using hounds, though the latter has a separate season.
Baiting — setting out food with the intention of enticing an animal into a particular location — is not allowed for large game species like deer, bear and moose. However, the state does allow hunters to hunt coyotes with bait, and set traps with bait for furbearing species like beaver.
Black bears have made a remarkable recovery in Vermont since the 1970s, when Vermont Fish and Wildlife estimates there were fewer than 2,000 left in the state. Today, department scientists estimate there are between 7,500 and 9,500 bears in Vermont.
Howard Weiss-Tisman
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Vermont Public
Vermont’s Wildlife Management Plan says the state should aim for a population around 5,000 to avoid depleting the bears’ wild food stores.
Additionally, human-bear conflicts appear to be on the rise in Vermont and cost the Department of Fish and Wildlife roughly $1 million each year, staff say.
“We are, in effect, victims of our own success. It’s gone beyond what we ever imagined,” Austin said. “It’s a great thing, a huge opportunity, and at the same time, it has become a growing challenge.”
The Vermont Bowhunters Association’s petition says baiting bears could address these population concerns more efficiently than with conventional hunting.
“Baiting allows you to be selective,” said petitioner Kevin Lawrence, arguing it would be easier for hunters to ensure they aren’t shooting a sow with young cubs.
Lawrence further argued baiting would allow hunters to kill bears that have been habituated to humans in more urban areas, where conventional hunting would be challenging. He said the department could require hunters share GPS coordinates for where they’re baiting so the sites can be inspected by wardens.
But state bear biologist Jaclyn Comeau says the science doesn’t support baiting as an effective solution for managing the bear population.
She says human behaviors — namely, how people store their trash and food and where they live — are major drivers of the rise in bear-human conflicts Vermont has seen in recent years.
“The more opportunity they have to take advantage of those food sources, the more chance there is that it can start to change their behavior over time, and now they may be seeking out those foods, not just when their wild foods are scarce, but they’re seeking them out as a regular part of their foraging strategy,” she said.
Vermont Department of Fish and Wildlife
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Courtesy
Roughly 100 people and at least eight environmental organizations, including some town conservation committees, filed public comments urging the department to reject bear baiting.
Bear hunters themselves appeared to be divided over the issue.
Speaking at the April 22 Fish and Wildlife Board meeting, bear hunter Butch Spear of Newbury, a former president of the Vermont Bearhound Association, urged the board to keep baiting illegal.
“It’s against the law to shoot a deer over bait,” he said. “Why do you want to make it legal to shoot a bear over bait?”
“It’s against the law to shoot a deer over bait. Why do you want to make it legal to shoot a bear over bait?”
Butch Spear of Newbury
Other hunters worried baiting would tarnish their reputation among non-hunters.
Linda Capucardo of Sheffield was one of several people who voiced concern about the ethics of baiting bears.
“We’ve spent tons of time in Vermont telling people to secure bird feeders, to secure their waste, to secure everything, so that we don’t habituate bears to human food sources,” she said. “And now we’re going to give them a human food source? That’s just inviting disaster.”
Many speakers questioned the narrative that Vermont has too many bears or will for long.
Black bears are heavily dependent on beech nuts for food, and their abundance is threatened by beech leaf disease and beech bark disease. Both are growing threats to Vermont’s forests.
After rejecting the bear baiting proposals, the board voted unanimously to advance Vermont Department of Fish and Wildlife’s recommendation that the state allow hunters to purchase two bear tags each year, and to extend the fall bear hunting season into December, through deer muzzleloader season.
The board is expected to discuss other aspects of the bear regulations at its June meeting, including a potential ban on killing sows with cubs in sight and changes to the rules governing hunting bears with hounds.
Lawmakers will next get to review the proposed updates to the bear rule to make sure they comply with state law, at which point there will be further opportunities for public comment.
Vermont
As Vermont legislative session stretches on, adjournment is a moving target – VTDigger
The session stretches on
“We’ve got to get out of here,” said Rep. Alice Emmons, D-Springfield, the longest-serving member of the Vermont House and the chair of the House Corrections and Institutions Committee.
She’s ready to adjourn for the year and tend to her garden.
Emmons, who was first elected in 1982 and has been a committee chair for 20 years, said the longest legislative session she remembers ended in the middle of June, during the 1990s.
“But to go until the end of May is, I hope that’s not going to be our norm,” Emmons said.
As joint Senate and House committees continue to debate some of the year’s most significant bills — the state budget, education reform, property tax rates — the legislative session has dragged on longer than in years past.
For Vermont’s part-time Legislature, adjourning late causes practical complications in people’s lives. Many legislators arrange for seasonal housing in Montpelier, like Emmons who said she rents an apartment and lives alongside two other representatives. Although Emmons no longer works full time outside the legislative session, other lawmakers have jobs they planned to return to and childcare arrangements that end soon.
The Legislature has typically adjourned in the middle of May in recent years, so many lawmakers plan accordingly.
Last year, the last day of the session was June 16, though most committees finished their work by the end of May.
John Bloomer, secretary of the Senate, said that he thinks of 2020 as one of the most memorable legislative sessions. That year the Legislature didn’t adjourn until September. And because government procedure was so disrupted by the pandemic, lawmakers had to pass multiple short-term budgets, Bloomer said.
Other lengthy years include 1961, during which the legislature didn’t adjourn until Aug. 1, due to a budget stalemate between the governor and the leader of the Senate.
Rep. Emilie Krasnow, D-South Burlington, said she collected signatures to run for reelection early this year, anticipating the legislative session might get drawn out. She’s heard from other House members that they have a harder time campaigning against opponents back home when the session draws on. Their opponents may be living closer to voters and have more time to campaign, she said.
By having a session for only half the year, Vermont’s Legislature is made up of community members with occupations rather than professional politicians. That leaves plenty of room for legislators to have potential conflicts of interest in their area of expertise, or — on the flip side — lack thorough expertise in the committee work they are assigned. But Emmons said she thinks the pros outweigh the cons.
When legislators have a gaggle of staffers doing work for them, they start to disengage, Emmons said. Whereas in Vermont, legislators are always talking to each other face to face.
“You’ve got a problem with a piece of legislation that’s coming out of another committee? You go and talk to the members of that committee, you go and talk to the chair,” Emmons said.
In the know
A proposed change to Stowe’s charter that would allow the town to double its local option tax to 2% “will die on the wall” in the Senate Government Operations Committee, the committee’s chair, Rutland Republican Sen. Brian Collamore, said Tuesday.
The committee voted 1-4 against advancing the charter change, which passed the House last week. Only Sen. Becca White, D-Windsor, voted for it.
The proposal, H.954, faced opposition from the outset this year because some lawmakers were concerned that approving it would set off a wave of requests from other towns to boost their own local taxes on meals, rooms and other purchases. Debate over Stowe’s change was further complicated when the House Ways and Means Committee revised the language that town voters approved, altering where some of the newly proposed tax revenue would go.
Under Ways and Means’ plan, which that committee drafted Friday, half of the newly added 1% in local tax would be deposited into a new, statewide fund for town highway projects. That fund, which would also get revenue from other sources, has been proposed in the Senate’s version of the budget bill, H.951.
Sen. Alison Clarkson, D-Windsor, called the changes to Stowe’s charter “an appalling precedent” ahead of the vote in Senate Gov Ops on Tuesday.
“We are not raising transportation money on the backs of visitors to Stowe and Stowe residents,” she said.
— Shaun Robinson
The House last week passed a version of the law enforcement masking bill stripped of its provisions penned in the Senate that were supported by anti-ICE activists. Lawmakers Tuesday reviewed a copy of the changed bill, S.208, on the Senate floor.
Rather than voting on the bill — as changed by the House — legislators agreed to send the bill to a conference committee, made up of lawmakers from both chambers, in an attempt to reach a consensus.
At 5 p.m. Wednesday, the House had not yet appointed lawmakers to the conference committee. If the House does not appoint members to the committee, or if the committee fails to reach a consensus, the bill will die.
— Charlotte Oliver
On the move
The House on Tuesday passed S.71, a data privacy bill, after a landslide 129-3 vote.
“This legislation limits what data can be collected, requires full transparency with consumers about how their data is used, increases protections for sensitive information, and bans manipulative data practices designed to exploit consumers,” House Speaker Jill Krowinski, D-Burlington, said in a statement. “Most importantly, it gives Vermonters real tools to fight back; the right to correct their data, opt out of collection, obtain a personal copy, and know exactly which third parties have received their data.”
Two years ago, Gov. Phil Scott vetoed a more stringent data privacy bill, with supporters of the bill blaming tech industry lobbyists for spreading misinformation about it.
Some of the House’s strongest data privacy proponents blamed a similar lobbying push for weakening this year’s bill. The amended bill now heads to the Senate for further consideration.
— Ethan Weinstein
Dog days
What’s the end of a legislative session without some shenanigans?
As of Wednesday, there’s a new portrait up on the Statehouse walls — and it features not a historic leader but rather Sen. Tanya Vyhovsky’s dog, Laika.
Vyhovsky brought her 13-year-old Samoyed to the Statehouse last Wednesday night, and captured the photo, which shows Laika seated dutifully at the Senate dais, to prove, should she ever be asked, how her dog “was acting lieutenant governor for about 10 minutes.”
What was supposed to be a clandestine transfer of power, however, turned out to be anything but. Laika left white hair all over the LG’s chair, Vyhovsky said — so much so that upon seeing it the next day, Vyhovsky explained, Lt. Gov. John Rodgers remarked that it looked as if “a sheep had died” there.
Investigation by Senate staff, including a review of security camera footage, soon exposed the two Vyhovskys as the culprits. Staff then had to lint-roll the chair and, apparently, shampoo it as well — two things Vyhosky said she never meant to happen.
“I have since apologized to the lieutenant governor for forgetting a lint roller,” she said.
Vyhovsky said the LG was amused by the story, however, and asked for a framed version of her photo as penance for the hairy inconvenience. The photo was tacked up, in a well-appointed gold frame, in the Statehouse on Wednesday. Vyhovsky hopes the location will stay a secret, until The Powers That Be find out.
In exchange for this hot scoop, VTDigger agreed not to reveal its location and spoil the fun.
Here’s one hint, though: “I just have fun trolling John Bloomer,” Vyhovsky said.
— Shaun Robinson
Department of corrections
Yesterday’s newsletter misstated which chamber Tim Ashe led. He was, of course, the Senate pro tem. It’s been a long session …
Vermont
VT Creemee Passport Is A Ticket To Dairy Bliss
Vermont’s favorite summer pastime has upped the ante for 2025 with the VT Creemee Passport. No, this won’t get you over the border to Canada, and you can’t use it to vote, but when you bring your VT Creemee Passport to participating creemee businesses, you’ll collect stamps and earn free perks like sprinkles, maple drizzle, and size upgrades.
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