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Boston, MA
Jasper White, inventive chef who helped put Boston on the culinary map, has died – The Boston Globe
“My grandmother was Italian, and she would sit and talk to me for hours about food,” Mr. White recalled. “She had a huge garden, and everything was always fresh. When I was going to spend the weekend with my granny, I would usually talk to her on Wednesday or Thursday, and we’d plan the menu for the weekend. She was my inspiration.”
Mr. White, whose Restaurant Jasper expanded Boston’s idea of elegant dining in the 1980s, and whose Summer Shack was just as memorable, if much more casual, in the past quarter century, has died.
Two of his close friends — Lydia Shire and Gordon Hamersley, both well-known chefs themselves — confirmed his death to the Globe. Additional information, including the age of Mr. White, who was born in 1954, was not immediately available.
“My real love for food is eating,” he told the Globe in 1997.
Generations of diners, meanwhile, loved going to his signature restaurants.
“I was part of a group of chefs that, in the early ‘80s, nationwide, started the American cuisine movement,” he said in 1997. “Prior to that, American chefs received very little respect from the American press.”
Restaurant critics praised his work and organizations conferred honors, including the James Beard Foundation, which named him the best chef in the Northeast region in 1991, when he was running his namesake Boston restaurant that became known simply as Jasper’s.
He also was a Beard Award nominee for best chef in 1994, and in 2001, the foundation named Summer Shack a best new restaurant nominee.
Writing in The New York Times that year, Nina Simonds noted that Mr. White was “considered the dean of American fish cookery by many.”
Before opening Restaurant Jasper in autumn 1983, Mr. White made the rounds of banks and lenders to secure financing. Then he renovated a space on Commercial Street in the North End.
With room for some 75 patrons, Jasper’s became so popular so quickly that weekends were soon booked a month in advance.
“If Jasper White, owner-chef of this restaurant, isn’t careful, Restaurant Jasper could end up among the best New England restaurants serving American haute cuisine,” Globe food critic Anthony Spinazzola wrote in a four-star review not long after opening night. “He’s certainly started out on the right foot.”
A decade later, Boston magazine anointed Jasper’s Boston’s best seafood restaurant in 1993, saying that “the quality is unbeatable and no one prepares it better than Jasper White.”
“Until Jasper’s, it was hard to find an elegant, fish-centric restaurant in town,” Hamersley told the Globe in 2018. “Jasper White’s food was very simple and very elegant, and I tried to cook this way when I opened my restaurant.”
In the 1989 Globe interview, Mr. White said he had broadened New England cooking “by not sticking to strictly Yankee cooking.”
“It’s certainly a part of New England, but besides the Yankees, there are the Portuguese, Greeks, Italians, Irish, Chinese, and Eastern Europeans,” he added, interviewed inside his North End dining room. “In addition, there are the migrations of people from Southeast Asia and Central America who are now bringing their native products into local markets.”
A son of Irish and Italian parents, Mr. White had little problem mixing cultures and cuisines.
He passed along his knowledge in the books he wrote, which include “Jasper White’s Cooking from New England,” “Lobster at Home,” “Fifty Chowders,” and “The Summer Shack Cookbook — The Complete Guide to Shore Food.”
In the late 1990s, he took a hiatus from running restaurants and was a consultant to Legal Sea Foods.
“He certainly enhanced our culinary operation — without a doubt,” Roger Berkowitz, former chief executive of Legal Sea Foods, said Saturday night. Mr. White encouraged Berkowitz to place chefs in every one of the chain’s restaurants, “as opposed to kitchen managers.”
Opening Summer Shack at the beginning of the 2000s, Mr. White created a different dining experience than his North End restaurant — launching first at a Cambridge location, a short walk from the MBTA’s Alewife Red Line Station. It was a hit that lent itself to expansion.
“Jasper White opened Summer Shack at Alewife in 2000 and expanded to the Back Bay and Mohegan Sun. Now there’s a Shack pop-up in Harvard Square outside the Charles Hotel,” Sheryl Julian, the Globe’s former food editor, wrote in 2021.
Summer Shack, the Globe’s Kara Baskin wrote in 2019, was a “family-friendly cavern, and his culinary celebrity helped to lure curious urbanites, older locals, and relieved suburban parents, delighted that there was finally a place — in Cambridge! Run by a real chef! — where children could romp among the lobster tanks and picnic tables while they ate a better-than-decent meal with their hands.”
Such a setting wasn’t entirely surprising, coming from a chef who developed his tastes in family settings.
“I wouldn’t call myself a traditional cook,” he said in 1989, “but I find myself going back to classic dishes and classic food combinations.”
Mr. White grew up in New Jersey, where en route to becoming a rock star restaurateur he crossed paths with a more straightforward rock star. He and Bruce Springsteen, a few years apart in age, both attended Freehold High School.
After graduating from the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, N.Y., Mr. White set off on a restaurant odyssey, telling the Globe that he cooked in nine states over the course 11 years.
In the roughly 48 months between his arrival in Boston and when he opened Restaurant Jasper, his chef duties included Cafe Plaza in the Copley Plaza Hotel, the Parker House, and Seasons in the Bostonian hotel, and his colleagues included Shire.
“Chefs such as Todd English, Gordon Hamersley, Barbara Lynch, Lydia Shire, and Jasper White created plenty of Boston buzz as they rose to renown,” Globe restaurant critic and food writer Devra First noted in 2018.
While he was at the Bostonian, he met Julia Child through Shire, and they became friends. “I was pleasantly surprised at the way she received us and how supportive she was,” he wrote in a 2011 essay posted on WickedLocal. And when he opened Jasper’s, “Julia and her husband, Paul, became regular customers, when they were staying in town.”
Jasper’s put him on the map locally, regionally, and nationally.
“Restaurateur Jasper White’s cuisine is daring in its simplicity,” Julian wrote in 1989 as she praised “Jasper White’s Cooking from New England,” which he published that year.
“Thankfully, White never suffered from the young chefs’ syndrome of having to prove all they know in each dish by presenting too many flavors,” she added. “Rather, he always understates his point, allowing the quality of each ingredient to shine, not interfering too much with foods that are splendid on their own.”
Mr. White closed Jasper’s in 1995, knowing that his restaurant would be trying to attract customers in the shadow of Big Dig construction. He also stepped away to spend more time with his family — his children in particular.
“I had overheard my 4-year-old daughter refer to me as ‘that guy’ as I was leaving the house one morning,” he said in 1997. “It was a slap in the face I think I needed.”
A complete list of Mr. White’s survivors and information about a memorial gathering were not available.
After closing Jasper’s, writing cookbooks, and serving as a consultant, Mr. White conceived of Summer Shack, which like so much else in his life harkened back to his own beginnings.
“I did fine dining for 25 years, appealing to a really limited audience,” he told the Globe in 1997, a few years before launching Summer Shack. “There’s a part of me, because I’m from a working-class family, that wanted to start cooking for other types of people and for children.”
Bryan Marquard can be reached at bryan.marquard@globe.com.
A 96-year-old Boston woman received the surprise of a lifetime when she discovered the French men’s national soccer team had become her neighbors at the Four Seasons Hotel in the Back Bay.
Shirley, a beloved resident of the neighborhood, said she had no idea she would end up meeting the players in town for the World Cup.
“They’re my buddies,” she said with a laugh.
Her caretaker, Samia, said Shirley has become well known around Back Bay.
“Anyone outside, when we are walking, people come to her and want to talk to her,” Samia said.
The U.S. is out of the World Cup. Fellow co-hosts Mexico and Canada are too. So who should
The excitement around the hotel grew after the French team arrived to stay there during the tournament.
Shirley said the encounter happened unexpectedly while she was eating lunch.
“I was having lunch and they came over, and since then, it’s been wonderful to have them here,” she said.
Shirley said team representatives soon invited her to meet the players.
“And they said, ‘He would like to meet you.’ I said, ‘I’m glad to meet anybody,’” she recalled.
For this Massachusetts teenager, attending a World Cup match was more than a dream come true, it was a milestone in a journey that began when he was diagnosed with Ewing sarcoma — something that might not have happened if he hadn’t been playing soccer.
After the visit, Shirley recorded a cellphone video sharing her excitement.
“This is absolutely — I cannot tell you how unbelievably fabulous this is,” she said.
The meeting ended with a memorable gift: A jersey from French star Kylian Mbappé.
The team also made her a promise.
“[They] told me that if they win, he will sign it, and then it will be worth a lot of money,” she said, laughing.
Samia, who is from Algeria, quickly agreed. She said she was already a devoted supporter of the French squad after spending many years living in France.
“I’m so excited. I went to Philadelphia to watch the game this past weekend. So, believe me, I’m totally 100% with them. I wanted them to go back to France with a cup,” she said.
Shirley said she never expected to become a fan, but she appreciated the sense of community the tournament brought to her neighborhood.
“It’s good to see such camaraderie happening, with people here getting along. Yeah, it’s the greatest thing,” she said.
She said she still did not know why the team wanted to meet her, but she’s grateful nonetheless. Shirley remains hopeful her new friends would keep winning, and keep returning to Boston.
Boston, MA
Boston sues social media companies over ‘addictive’ features, joining nationwide litigation
Local News
Boston officials say that social media has led to a significant downturn in the mental health of students over the past decade.
Boston Mayor Michelle Wu announced Wednesday that the city is suing social media companies — including Meta, TikTok, Snapchat and YouTube — over their alleged deliberate targeting of minors with addictive features.
The lawsuit, filed on behalf of Boston Public Schools in federal court in California, will be consolidated with more than 1,500 similar complaints from school districts around the country, Wu’s office said.
The lawsuit seeks to force the companies to remove addictive features and compensate the city for the mental health support needed by students. It alleges the companies designed addictive features specifically to keep young people engaged. These features include endless scrolling, frequent notifications, and personalized algorithms, city officials said.
In a statement, Wu said that these companies have evidence of the harm they are causing to children.
“Boston is taking legal action to protect children and youth and hold these companies accountable. Today, we are making it clear that social media companies must end exploitative practices and be accountable to standards of basic protection for children,” she said.
The move comes as more Massachusetts politicians look to rein in social media companies. The state’s House of Representatives passed a bill in April that would implement a phone ban in schools and prohibit children 14 and younger from using social media. Gov. Maura Healey followed that up by introducing legislation that would require social media companies to verify users’ ages and limit the ways in which minors are exposed to potentially addictive design features.
Just last week, the state Senate unveiled legislation that would require social media companies to automatically disable these types of features for minors.
BPS officials say that they have seen a “significant increase” in social media-fueled mental health needs over the past decade. They cited data from the Boston Public Health Commission that shows the impact on high school students. In 2015, just 26.7% of Boston public high school students reported “persistent sadness.” By 2021, that figure had risen to 43.9%.
The district says it has responded by “exponentially” expanding mental health resources. In 2007, there were six social workers and 48 school psychologists employed in the BPS system. The district now has 240 social workers and 105 school psychologists, officials said.
“We work hard to set our students on the best course for success through rigorous academics and whole-student supports, and the research is clear that social media has had a negative impact on students’ well-being while benefiting companies. We all need to do what is right for our students,” Superintendent Mary Skipper said in a statement.
In March, a jury in California found that Meta and YouTube are liable for intentionally designing addictive features and that executives failed to protect young users.
In May, Meta and other social media companies settled a lawsuit brought by a Kentucky school district in a bellwether case.
There’s no way around it. To experience these sushi-focused multicourse tasting menus, you are going to splurge, at least a little. At omakase specialist O Ya, for instance, Tim and Nancy Cushman present raw fish in many creative forms over 20 to 25 bites, from oysters with watermelon pearls to hamachi with torched banana pepper to Peruvian-influenced chutoro. If the initially revelatory menu had started to feel somewhat rote, a Michelin pass-over and the restaurant’s 20th anniversary seem to have provided the spark to shake it up. Add a sake and wine pairing — a particular strength here — and the experience is going to cost more than $500 per person.
For a different creative take on omakase, head to Lexington to spend an evening at Michael Monaco’s six-seat Akame Nigiri and Sake. For $180, his 15-course tasting menu showcases premium fish from Japan alongside a freewheeling array of ingredients that might include mango, hummus, and Dorito powder; as at O Ya, Akame’s omakase includes Hokkaido uni and A5 Wagyu.
The bottom line:
O Ya: $378.78 (including taxes and fees; no gratuity required), optional beverage pairings $192-$240.
Akame Nigiri and Sake: $180, optional sake pairing $85.
O Ya, 9 East St., Boston, 617-654-9900, www.o-ya.restaurant. Akame Nigiri and Sake, 1707 Massachusetts Ave. #2, Lexington, 781-538-6581, www.akamenigiriandsake.com.
Steakhouse stakeout
Abe & Louie’s has been around since restaurateur Charlie Sarkis opened the steakhouse in 1965, and it’s still going strong. When you want old-school vibes — dark wood, white tablecloths, roaring fireplace, servers in jackets bringing you New York strips and martinis — this is your spot.
But if the Back Bay restaurant is too rich for your blood, there’s another steakhouse classic going strong, this one in Brighton: The Stockyard, opened in 1972. It’s got the fireplace, New York strips, and martinis, plus the right old-school vibe. The similarities should come as no surprise, as chef Bill Bramley and general manager Gerry Lynch both previously worked at Abe & Louie’s.
The bottom line:
Abe & Louie’s: Steaks $72-$195, martinis $18.
The Stockyard: Steaks $32-$98, martinis $14.
Abe & Louie’s, 793 Boylston St., Back Bay, Boston, 617-536-6300, www.abeandlouies.com. The Stockyard, 135 Market St., Brighton, 617-782-4700, www.stockyardrestaurant.com.
Postcards from Italy
Buzzy, swank, and Michelin-recommended, La Padrona is chef Jody Adams’s return to the Italian cuisine she was long known for at Rialto. She and executive chef Amarilys Colón draw from Liguria, Tuscany, Sicily, and beyond, applying New England ingredients to regional dishes. Come for charred cabbage with anchovy butter and risotto with lobster and uni, stay for the strong bartending.
Or head to Dorchester’s Via Cannuccia, where Italian chef Stefano Quaresima prepares dishes straight out of Rome. (The restaurant is named for the street he grew up on.) At this neighborhood favorite, you’ll find fresh, basil-laced eggplant Parmigiana; ravioli stuffed with sheep ricotta and blanketed with lamb ragu; Roman-style pizza; and porchetta with giardiniera. Weekend brunch brings beautiful pastries.
The bottom line:
La Padrona: Bucatini with red and green tomatoes, stracciatella, and basil $33; beef tenderloin $67; wine by the glass $18-$45; cocktails $22-$30.
Via Cannuccia: Fettuccine with fresh tomato, basil, and grana padano $29; short ribs $47; wine by the glass $13-$23; cocktails $16-$18.
La Padrona, 38 Trinity Place, Back Bay, Boston, 617-898-0010, www.lapadronaboston.com. Via Cannuccia, 1739 Dorchester Ave., Dorchester, 617-506-1877, www.viacannuccia.com.
Direct flights to France
For French fine dining, with a price tag to match, Mistral has been a mainstay in Boston for nearly 30 years. Come here to savor foie gras with duck confit, Dover sole meunière, and profiteroles, as well as thin-crust grilled pizza, tuna tartare, and other more-modern classics. The room is elegant and the service excellent.
For French bistro dining, with a price tag to match, there is Ma Maison. Jacky Robert’s Beacon Hill restaurant is a homier, more down-to-earth venture than Mistral, but the pâté, escargots, duck a l’orange, and souffles hit home (if home is a non-touristy arrondissement of Paris).
The bottom line:
Mistral: Escargots $21, roast duck with mushroom risotto and cranberry gastrique $54, wine by the glass $15-$40, cocktails $19-$20.
Ma Maison: Escargots $12, duck a l’orange with Brussels sprouts $31, wine by the glass $12-$18, cocktails $10-$12.
Mistral, 223 Columbus Ave., South End, Boston, 617-867-9300, www.mistralbistro.com. Ma Maison, 272 Cambridge St., Beacon Hill, Boston, 617-725-8855, www.mamaisonboston.com.
A toast to tapas
When it opened in April, Dalia took South Boston by storm. Like sister restaurants Capri and Prima, it is dressed to impress: The room is filled with wrought iron, Spanish tile, and carefully curated decorations. This eye candy is backed up by a menu of tapas, crudos, grilled meats, and more. Tapas here are only a bit more expensive than at other Spanish restaurants around town. But if you’re the type to be tempted by pricier dishes like grilled Wagyu, paella, or tuna crudo, that can start to add up.
For the original fanciful-decor-plus-tapas experience, drop an “a” off of Dalia and head to Dalí. Tchotchkes, bric-a-brac, art, and a laundry line of undergarments festoon the eye-catching Somerville institution, where tapas, paella, and drinks can be had for a little less. (The best tapas deal in town, however, might be Estragon’s $6 tapas happy hour, Mondays through Thursdays from 5-7 p.m.)
But if you want to focus on eating and drinking — because tapas were invented to accompany drinks, after all — Taberna de Haro is the best bet for your money. The Brookline restaurant is known for its Spanish wine program, and its food and hospitality are excellent too.
The bottom line:
Dalia: Average tapas price is $14.23. Paella $28-$36 half-portion, $56-$72 whole; wine by the glass $11-$20; cocktails $15-$16.
Dalí: Average tapas price is $13.80. Paella $38-$45, wine by the glass $9-$12, cocktails $14.
Taberna de Haro: Average tapas price is $13.42. Paella $42, wine by the glass $11-$15, cocktails $13-$15.
Dalia, 429 West Broadway, South Boston, 617-752-0429, www.daliaboston.com. Estragon, 700 Harrison Ave., South End, Boston, 617-266-0443, www.estragontapas.com. Dalí, 415 Washington St., Somerville, 617-661-3254, www.dalirestaurant.com. Taberna de Haro, 999 Beacon St., Brookline, 617-277-8272, www.tabernaboston.com.
Aegean idylls
Where to go when you can’t get to a Greek isle? The South End, of course. Here you’ll find Kaia, serving elegant, upscale meze, grilled fish, and more. Spanakopita goes black tie in this fine-dining iteration of the classic spinach pie, strewn with blossoms and snipped herbs, earthy with truffle vinaigrette. Tender grilled octopus comes with wild greens and dill gremolata. For a summery dessert, there’s watermelon shaved ice with pistachio powder and yogurt foam.
A half-mile away is Kava Neo-Taverna, still elegant, still serving meze and grilled fish, just a little more casual and traditional. The grilled octopus is simpler here, with olive oil, lemon, and oregano. There’s baked feta with cherry tomatoes, lamb meatballs, and Greek fries.
Whichever place you choose, there will be a wine list stocked with bottles from Greece.
The bottom line:
Kaia: Average meze price is $24.13. Whole grilled fish is market price; lavraki (Mediterranean sea bass) was recently $90. Wine by the glass $16-$32, cocktails $18.
Kava Neo-Taverna: Average meze price is $14.54. Whole grilled fish is market price; lavraki was recently $65. Wine by the glass $12-$16, cocktails $13-$16.
Kaia, 370 Harrison Ave., South End, Boston, 617-514-0700, www.kaiasouthend.com. Kava Neo-Taverna, 315 Shawmut Ave., South End, Boston, 617-356-1100, www.kavaneotaverna.com.
Choose your own tasting menu adventure
Nightshade Noodle Bar is known for next-level Vietnamese-influenced tasting menus that would stand out in the most food-forward locales. Yet here we are in Lynn, feasting on chef Rachel Miller’s innovative seven-, nine-, 14-, 21-, and 30-course meals of fermented rice cakes with crispy confit duck tongues, chilled percebes (a.k.a. goose barnacles) dipped in lime-pepper sauce, and grilled coconut sticky rice with caramelized clay-pot foie gras and Amarena cherries. A night at Nightshade is an adventure.
You won’t find anything exactly like it anywhere else. But in a similar spirit of experimentation and creativity, Brassica Kitchen + Cafe offers The Ride — a free-form tasting of dishes from on and off the menu, for two people or more. Last year, Jeremy Kean and Philip Kruta’s quirky Jamaica Plain restaurant moved a few doors down into a larger, stylish space, but their focus on fermentation and reducing waste remains the same. (And now there’s pizza.) Your meal might include tuna crudo with watermelon and miso powder; striper collar with cherries, cherry ponzu, and basil; and koji risotto with Parmesan — or anything else the chefs can dream up.
The bottom line:
Nightshade Noodle Bar: tasting menus $102-$468, optional beverage pairings $60-$220.
Brassica Kitchen + Cafe: The Ride $105, optional wine pairing $55. Both restaurants include taxes and fees in the tasting menu price; no additional gratuity required.
Nightshade Noodle Bar, 73 Exchange St., Lynn, 781-780-9470, www.nightshadenoodlebar.com. Brassica Kitchen + Cafe, 3712 Washington St., Jamaica Plain, 617-477-4519, www.brassicakitchen.com.
Devra First can be reached at devra.first@globe.com. Follow her on Instagram @devra_first.
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