Boston, MA

I was ready to hate the new Copley Square Park. Then I visited it. – The Boston Globe

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But you know what? I actually kind of love it.

I spent hours there on Tuesday afternoon, taking the place in from various angles, watching how locals and tourists are using the space. And they were actually using it.

Good job, everybody!

Maybe everywhere was bound to feel like heaven on one of the first, long-overdue warm, cloudless days of the year. Maybe anything would look great after the ripped-up square the city endured for more than two years.

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But on Tuesday afternoon, the new park felt dynamic, magnetic, and interesting.

In April 1967, students from the Vesper George School of Art sketch in Copley Square.Joe Runci/Globe Staff

You can watch the whole world pass by on the path that cuts through the park, from the corner of Boylston and Clarendon at one end, to the corner of Dartmouth and Huntington at the other: gaggles of workers strolling by with their lunches, and haunted-looking businessy types rushing to something important; kids cackling in groups or shrinking into themselves; tourists taking in the glorious architecture in every direction — Trinity and Old South churches, the Fairmont Copley Plaza hotel and glass Hancock tower, the grand Boston Public Library. There were old women inching along with grocery bags and kids hurtling ahead of their parents like little pinballs. Some people carried expensive little designer bags, and others heaved along all they had.

The parade is better than Newbury Street, and you don’t have to camp at a cafe with an eight-dollar matcha to enjoy it.

There is now far more seating from which to people-watch, especially if your bits are creakier than they were in your glory days: The renovation has tripled the sitting spots in the park. There are wooden benches under the budding trees by St. James Street, and benches built into a raised structure along Dartmouth, the platform built to protect the roots of trees that had struggled before with people trampling them.

The square has 30 more trees than it did, bringing the total to 83, all of them desperately needed in a warming city. In the summer, you’ll be able to sit at cafe tables and chairs beneath the growing canopy. It might not look promising right now if you’re not a gardener, but the whole place will be super lush once all of the new plantings grow in. The city has also added new raised beds filled with native species to buffer the place from the busy streets around it.

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And in case any of you water-table nerds are curious, the designers say that, because of the new planting beds and paving materials, the reconfigured plaza will actually absorb more rainwater than before. The center of the park has been reinforced to take the weight of trucks, the weekly farmers market, and the crowds from big events like the Boston Marathon.

A man takes a break at the revamped Copley Square Park.John Tlumacki/Globe Staff

People parked themselves all over the place on Tuesday afternoon — on the benches beneath the most mature trees, and in the full sun along the built-in stone and wooden benches on the other side. There is less grass than there used to be — the lawn space has been halved, to about 10,000 square feet — but there was still plenty of lolling going on, with folks laid out in the sun, reading or napping. Later in the afternoon, a few kids squealing raced around on the grass, one of them dragging along a kite in the stiff wind. Expect more lying about once the renovation of the beloved fountain by Boylston Street is complete: It will be safer and better lit, and the sound of running water is excellent for snoozing, or so I’ve heard.

“You have folks sitting around in their own little spaces, it’s just beautiful,” said Charles Robinson, who lives in elder housing in the South End, and was sitting in the sun by the raised grove. “I drift out here to just sit. It’s wide and it feels free. It’s comfortable, you can see how it flows.”

People came and sat a while then moved on, all living our moments together. A woman sat under a tree and called to accept a job offer after a protracted interview process, negotiating her hours. Two nursing school graduates stopped to take pictures in their caps and gowns and an older, retired nurse approached to give her advice after 47 years in the job: “Don’t be afraid to change your mind!” A couple dozen kids from The Learning Project, a nearby elementary school, set up a maypole in the park and practiced a complicated fractal weave, as a teacher tried to both direct them while playing the saxophone. It was mystifying and delightful.

“There is so much more room now,” said Amy Allard, who lives in Ridgewood NJ but comes to Boston often because she and her husband love it. “This is so crisp and clean.”

People enjoy a warm day on the revamped Copley Square Plaza.John Tlumacki/Globe Staff

I can understand how people would resist crisp and clean. It seems like nobody leaves anything alone any more: everything gets renovated and spiffed up, the rough edges sanded off. And ordinary people get pushed further and further out. Boston is far ritzier and more polished and exclusive than it was when I first came here over 30 years ago.

But this is going to be a really successful, accessible public space — a democratic place where we can be together, in the sun and in the shade, where we can gather for farmers markets and public performances and protests and five minutes of respite in a place where everybody has a right to be.

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It reminds me of the Rose Kennedy Greenway, another Boston gem, built on the land freed up by the Big Dig. Everybody (except yours truly, for the record!) ragged on that place at first, decreeing it a soulless disaster. Now it’s one of the city’s most vital arteries, with art and food trucks and beer and grass and gorgeous spots to gather ourselves.

Like the Greenway, Copley Square Park is the kind of space cities desperately need — a flexible, open place that can accommodate all kinds of people.

It’ll grow on us. Maybe, after a while, we won’t even miss all that lawn.


Globe columnist Yvonne Abraham can be reached at yvonne.abraham@globe.com.





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