There’s no way around it. To experience these sushi-focused multicourse tasting menus, you are going to splurge, at least a little. At omakase specialist O Ya, for instance, Tim and Nancy Cushman present raw fish in many creative forms over 20 to 25 bites, from oysters with watermelon pearls to hamachi with torched banana pepper to Peruvian-influenced chutoro. If the initially revelatory menu had started to feel somewhat rote, a Michelin pass-over and the restaurant’s 20th anniversary seem to have provided the spark to shake it up. Add a sake and wine pairing — a particular strength here — and the experience is going to cost more than $500 per person.

For a different creative take on omakase, head to Lexington to spend an evening at Michael Monaco’s six-seat Akame Nigiri and Sake. For $180, his 15-course tasting menu showcases premium fish from Japan alongside a freewheeling array of ingredients that might include mango, hummus, and Dorito powder; as at O Ya, Akame’s omakase includes Hokkaido uni and A5 Wagyu.

The bottom line:

O Ya: $378.78 (including taxes and fees; no gratuity required), optional beverage pairings $192-$240.

Akame Nigiri and Sake: $180, optional sake pairing $85.

O Ya, 9 East St., Boston, 617-654-9900, www.o-ya.restaurant. Akame Nigiri and Sake, 1707 Massachusetts Ave. #2, Lexington, 781-538-6581, www.akamenigiriandsake.com.

Steakhouse stakeout

Abe & Louie’s has been around since restaurateur Charlie Sarkis opened the steakhouse in 1965, and it’s still going strong. When you want old-school vibes — dark wood, white tablecloths, roaring fireplace, servers in jackets bringing you New York strips and martinis — this is your spot.

But if the Back Bay restaurant is too rich for your blood, there’s another steakhouse classic going strong, this one in Brighton: The Stockyard, opened in 1972. It’s got the fireplace, New York strips, and martinis, plus the right old-school vibe. The similarities should come as no surprise, as chef Bill Bramley and general manager Gerry Lynch both previously worked at Abe & Louie’s.

The bottom line:

Abe & Louie’s: Steaks $72-$195, martinis $18.

The Stockyard: Steaks $32-$98, martinis $14.

Abe & Louie’s, 793 Boylston St., Back Bay, Boston, 617-536-6300, www.abeandlouies.com. The Stockyard, 135 Market St., Brighton, 617-782-4700, www.stockyardrestaurant.com.

Postcards from Italy

Buzzy, swank, and Michelin-recommended, La Padrona is chef Jody Adams’s return to the Italian cuisine she was long known for at Rialto. She and executive chef Amarilys Colón draw from Liguria, Tuscany, Sicily, and beyond, applying New England ingredients to regional dishes. Come for charred cabbage with anchovy butter and risotto with lobster and uni, stay for the strong bartending.

Or head to Dorchester’s Via Cannuccia, where Italian chef Stefano Quaresima prepares dishes straight out of Rome. (The restaurant is named for the street he grew up on.) At this neighborhood favorite, you’ll find fresh, basil-laced eggplant Parmigiana; ravioli stuffed with sheep ricotta and blanketed with lamb ragu; Roman-style pizza; and porchetta with giardiniera. Weekend brunch brings beautiful pastries.

The bottom line:

La Padrona: Bucatini with red and green tomatoes, stracciatella, and basil $33; beef tenderloin $67; wine by the glass $18-$45; cocktails $22-$30.

Via Cannuccia: Fettuccine with fresh tomato, basil, and grana padano $29; short ribs $47; wine by the glass $13-$23; cocktails $16-$18.

La Padrona, 38 Trinity Place, Back Bay, Boston, 617-898-0010, www.lapadronaboston.com. Via Cannuccia, 1739 Dorchester Ave., Dorchester, 617-506-1877, www.viacannuccia.com.

Direct flights to France

For French fine dining, with a price tag to match, Mistral has been a mainstay in Boston for nearly 30 years. Come here to savor foie gras with duck confit, Dover sole meunière, and profiteroles, as well as thin-crust grilled pizza, tuna tartare, and other more-modern classics. The room is elegant and the service excellent.

For French bistro dining, with a price tag to match, there is Ma Maison. Jacky Robert’s Beacon Hill restaurant is a homier, more down-to-earth venture than Mistral, but the pâté, escargots, duck a l’orange, and souffles hit home (if home is a non-touristy arrondissement of Paris).

The bottom line:

Mistral: Escargots $21, roast duck with mushroom risotto and cranberry gastrique $54, wine by the glass $15-$40, cocktails $19-$20.

Ma Maison: Escargots $12, duck a l’orange with Brussels sprouts $31, wine by the glass $12-$18, cocktails $10-$12.

Mistral, 223 Columbus Ave., South End, Boston, 617-867-9300, www.mistralbistro.com. Ma Maison, 272 Cambridge St., Beacon Hill, Boston, 617-725-8855, www.mamaisonboston.com.

A toast to tapas

When it opened in April, Dalia took South Boston by storm. Like sister restaurants Capri and Prima, it is dressed to impress: The room is filled with wrought iron, Spanish tile, and carefully curated decorations. This eye candy is backed up by a menu of tapas, crudos, grilled meats, and more. Tapas here are only a bit more expensive than at other Spanish restaurants around town. But if you’re the type to be tempted by pricier dishes like grilled Wagyu, paella, or tuna crudo, that can start to add up.

For the original fanciful-decor-plus-tapas experience, drop an “a” off of Dalia and head to Dalí. Tchotchkes, bric-a-brac, art, and a laundry line of undergarments festoon the eye-catching Somerville institution, where tapas, paella, and drinks can be had for a little less. (The best tapas deal in town, however, might be Estragon’s $6 tapas happy hour, Mondays through Thursdays from 5-7 p.m.)

But if you want to focus on eating and drinking — because tapas were invented to accompany drinks, after all — Taberna de Haro is the best bet for your money. The Brookline restaurant is known for its Spanish wine program, and its food and hospitality are excellent too.

The bottom line:

Dalia: Average tapas price is $14.23. Paella $28-$36 half-portion, $56-$72 whole; wine by the glass $11-$20; cocktails $15-$16.

Dalí: Average tapas price is $13.80. Paella $38-$45, wine by the glass $9-$12, cocktails $14.

Taberna de Haro: Average tapas price is $13.42. Paella $42, wine by the glass $11-$15, cocktails $13-$15.

Dalia, 429 West Broadway, South Boston, 617-752-0429, www.daliaboston.com. Estragon, 700 Harrison Ave., South End, Boston, 617-266-0443, www.estragontapas.com. Dalí, 415 Washington St., Somerville, 617-661-3254, www.dalirestaurant.com. Taberna de Haro, 999 Beacon St., Brookline, 617-277-8272, www.tabernaboston.com.

Aegean idylls

Where to go when you can’t get to a Greek isle? The South End, of course. Here you’ll find Kaia, serving elegant, upscale meze, grilled fish, and more. Spanakopita goes black tie in this fine-dining iteration of the classic spinach pie, strewn with blossoms and snipped herbs, earthy with truffle vinaigrette. Tender grilled octopus comes with wild greens and dill gremolata. For a summery dessert, there’s watermelon shaved ice with pistachio powder and yogurt foam.

A half-mile away is Kava Neo-Taverna, still elegant, still serving meze and grilled fish, just a little more casual and traditional. The grilled octopus is simpler here, with olive oil, lemon, and oregano. There’s baked feta with cherry tomatoes, lamb meatballs, and Greek fries.

Whichever place you choose, there will be a wine list stocked with bottles from Greece.

The bottom line:

Kaia: Average meze price is $24.13. Whole grilled fish is market price; lavraki (Mediterranean sea bass) was recently $90. Wine by the glass $16-$32, cocktails $18.

Kava Neo-Taverna: Average meze price is $14.54. Whole grilled fish is market price; lavraki was recently $65. Wine by the glass $12-$16, cocktails $13-$16.

Kaia, 370 Harrison Ave., South End, Boston, 617-514-0700, www.kaiasouthend.com. Kava Neo-Taverna, 315 Shawmut Ave., South End, Boston, 617-356-1100, www.kavaneotaverna.com.

Choose your own tasting menu adventure

Nightshade Noodle Bar is known for next-level Vietnamese-influenced tasting menus that would stand out in the most food-forward locales. Yet here we are in Lynn, feasting on chef Rachel Miller’s innovative seven-, nine-, 14-, 21-, and 30-course meals of fermented rice cakes with crispy confit duck tongues, chilled percebes (a.k.a. goose barnacles) dipped in lime-pepper sauce, and grilled coconut sticky rice with caramelized clay-pot foie gras and Amarena cherries. A night at Nightshade is an adventure.

You won’t find anything exactly like it anywhere else. But in a similar spirit of experimentation and creativity, Brassica Kitchen + Cafe offers The Ride — a free-form tasting of dishes from on and off the menu, for two people or more. Last year, Jeremy Kean and Philip Kruta’s quirky Jamaica Plain restaurant moved a few doors down into a larger, stylish space, but their focus on fermentation and reducing waste remains the same. (And now there’s pizza.) Your meal might include tuna crudo with watermelon and miso powder; striper collar with cherries, cherry ponzu, and basil; and koji risotto with Parmesan — or anything else the chefs can dream up.

The bottom line:

Nightshade Noodle Bar: tasting menus $102-$468, optional beverage pairings $60-$220.

Brassica Kitchen + Cafe: The Ride $105, optional wine pairing $55. Both restaurants include taxes and fees in the tasting menu price; no additional gratuity required.

Nightshade Noodle Bar, 73 Exchange St., Lynn, 781-780-9470, www.nightshadenoodlebar.com. Brassica Kitchen + Cafe, 3712 Washington St., Jamaica Plain, 617-477-4519, www.brassicakitchen.com.

Devra First can be reached at devra.first@globe.com. Follow her on Instagram @devra_first.