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From Bauhaus to Kaunas: Lithuania’s hidden Modernist architecture

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Kaunas, Lithuania’s second metropolis, is near distinctive in Europe. It has about 6,000 Modernist buildings. Some are in a poor state, however many are intact. Collectively, they’re a compelling but ghostly assortment, constructed largely within the interwar interval of the Twentieth century: Artwork Deco condominium blocks and household villas; an unlimited Modernist Catholic church; slabby workplaces, banks and factories.

The town’s Modernism displays a time when Kaunas was altering quick. It’s a restrained, extra purposeful model than Vienna’s, and extra conservative than Germany’s. Few buildings are spectacular. However Kaunas does type an nearly good evocation of the mid-Twentieth century. When the makers of Chernobyl, the HBO tv collection, wanted places to face in for Eighties Moscow, they filmed the houses and streets of Kaunas.

The Modernist cluster, largely in what is named the New City, was constructed at pace and in a spirit of optimism when the partly medieval metropolis was briefly Lithuania’s capital, between 1920 and 1940.

“There are an enormous variety of Modernist buildings right here,” says Vaidas Petrulis, affiliate professor of structure at Kaunas College of Expertise. “They began building round 1922 due to a fancy political state of affairs. The nation had misplaced Vilnius, and so it wanted new features in a short time: housing, establishments, museums — all the things.”

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Scenes of the HBO TV collection ‘Chernobyl’ have been filmed in Kaunas, whose streets and houses stood in for Eighties Moscow © Sky UK Ltd/HBO
This Modernist home was considered one of them © Martynas Plepys

This 12 months, town of 300,000 individuals is considered one of three European Capitals of Tradition (with Esch in Luxembourg and Novi Unhappy in Serbia). It’s a likelihood to draw worldwide consideration and tourism.

The creative programmers and curators are specializing in Kaunas’s wealth of early Modernist buildings within the hope of shoring up its extra fragile ones — and their future. They need to forge “an emotional connection” between structure and folks.

“We need to current the worth of Modernist structure to people who find themselves not architects or specialists,” says Zilvinas Rinkselis, programme co-ordinator. “It’s specialists who recognize it, and many individuals suppose they don’t prefer it.”

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“Some individuals simply see packing containers,” says Petrulis. “It’s not simple.”

Guests can e book lodging in renovated Artwork Deco houses, take architectural excursions of personal homes and restored flats, and perceive how Kaunas’s buildings relate to extra celebrated examples world wide, with the exhibition Modernism for the Future.

As a part of the competition, guests can e book a keep in a restored residence © Martynas Plepys

That’s on show within the publish workplace, town’s grand, Modernist centrepiece with a sweeping, wing-like facade — in-built 1931 to attach town to the remainder of the world. Its architect was Feliksas Vizbaras — not a well-known title, however considered one of a technology of Lithuanians who graduated from structure faculties throughout Europe, from Paris to Russia (Kaunas’s personal structure college didn’t open till 1922).

In Modernism for the Future, 20 artists from everywhere in the world have produced particular person works that think about how Modernist buildings is perhaps preserved. They hung out wandering town’s streets earlier than beginning work.

Amongst them is Shay Silberman, an Israeli artist from Tel Aviv — a metropolis with a few of the best-preserved examples of Bauhaus structure. Silberman labored with surviving blueprints of 40 buildings in Kaunas and retraced them with digital know-how to supply “Exterior the Strains”, a stencilled collage collection that he says imagines a brand new lexicon of Modernism.

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“Working with structure blueprints was a option to develop the varieties and shapes of the buildings, which I then broke aside with collage,” says Silberman. “I’m not inventing something. I’m appropriating what exists already to create a imaginative and prescient, an thought of town that exists solely within the creativeness.”

Kaunas, he says, has modified his thought of what Modernism is. “Tel Aviv Modernism could be very clear and geometric,” he explains. “However right here geometrics are blended with botanical varieties, or the moon or the solar, or varieties that relate to myths. I assumed ornament was nearly a curse to Modernism, however right here there’s concord.”

A number of the buildings he labored with have decorative particulars, reminiscent of animals and people motifs. “That’s one of many distinctive options of Modernism in Kaunas and the Baltic states,” says Rinkselis. Variations like that designate why the curators have introduced in worldwide artists: “While you evaluate your self with others, then you definitely perceive what makes you distinctive on the earth.”

A collage by Shay Silberman primarily based on town’s Modernist buildings

A full programme of creative occasions will run in Kaunas all 12 months, together with contributions from worldwide artists, reminiscent of Yoko Ono and Marina Abramovic. The celebrations are additionally a part of town’s bid to safe Unesco World Heritage standing for its Modernism.

Kaunas turned Lithuania’s non permanent capital after the nation gained independence from the Russian empire in 1918. Vilnius was occupied largely by Poland, and was solely returned in 1939. Throughout that point, Kaunas developed quickly, simply as Modernist structure swept Europe. Within the Soviet period, a few of its buildings have been nationalised and lots of Modernist constructions reconfigured and broken, says Petrulis.

Nonetheless, Kaunas nonetheless symbolises the nation’s delivery, and its interwar buildings are essential signifiers of independence — which is why their survival issues.

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“After we evaluate it with the worldwide context, we don’t have icons like Le Corbusier, and we don’t have a transparent Modernist type, or something very avant-garde,” says Rinkselis. However in the present day, Kaunas does have recognition — and a doable future as a cultural centre.

“Modernism for the Future”, till October 4, Kaunas central publish workplace; Kaunas 2022 has occasions all 12 months; kaunas2022.eu

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