Indianapolis, IN
INdulge: Stuck in Indy on spring break? This taste of the Caribbean is best thing I ate this week
Find the best food in Indianapolis weekly with INdulge
Get inspiration for your next lunch break, drinks with friends or night out from dining reporter Bradley Hohulin.
I’ve never really cared for the beach. But now, as I bathe in the fluorescent glow of a Microsoft Surface here in rain-sloshed Indianapolis, getting brutally sunburnt on a tourist-riddled beach somewhere in Florida doesn’t sound so bad.
As Indy-area families head south for spring break, I got a much smaller taste of the tropics in this week’s INdulge with:
The best thing I ate in Indy this week
With nothing but admiration for the esteemed Captain Morgan, I suspect the highlighter-colored rum cocktails associated with Caribbean culture have misled Americans as to how simple the region’s cuisine can be. Take the national dish of Jamaica, ackee and saltfish, which you can find at Jamaican Breeze just south of Fall Creek on Keystone Avenue.
Ackee is a nutty-tasting, fist-sized fruit native to West Africa in the same family as lychee. While its seeds have small outgrowths that can be poisonous when consumed raw, cooked ackee is no more toxic than, say, scrambled eggs, to which it bears a striking resemblance. Sautéed with onions, bell peppers and scotch bonnet peppers, ackee looks uncannily like a Southwest scramble that would cost $14 at an especially Instagram-friendly brunch spot.
Saltfish, meanwhile, is exactly what it sounds like. Slivers of generously salted cod add some chew and a little funk to the ackee, creating a salty-savory mash whose flavor profile isn’t far from certain American comfort foods. Turns out garlic, onion and thyme play just as well in island cuisine as they do in your grandmother’s pot roast.
Jamaican Breeze’s ackee and saltfish ($17.95) comes with a similarly seasoned portion of rice and “peas” (what most Americans know as kidney beans), shreds of steamed cabbage and a pair of sugar-sweet fried plantains.
Like many staple Caribbean dishes, ackee and saltfish is a direct result of the Atlantic slave trade. Ackee most likely arrived in English-controlled Jamaica during the 1700s, crossing the same waters that brought millions of enslaved Africans to the Americas. Ackee flourished in the island’s tropical climate and has been a staple food ever since.
Meanwhile, English slave owners imported Canadian cod preserved in salt as a cheap, long-lasting food source for their ill-gotten labor force. The two foods eventually met in kitchens across Jamaica with the mild ackee, almost more vegetable than fruit, making a natural pairing for the sea-flavored cod.
Reconciling ackee and saltfish’s grisly origins with the modern dish is tricky. Such is often the case with culinary tradition, as countless now-iconic dishes began with just a few basic ingredients, a little ingenuity and at least one historical atrocity. But like many groups of people who have known great suffering, Jamaicans eventually reclaimed ackee and saltfish, and many now view the dish as a source of national pride.
Though the meal’s significance may not fully translate to Hoosiers 1,500 miles away, it’s still worth trying. Besides, if, like me, you haven’t been getting a ton of vitamin D from the supposedly still-extant sun lately, you might as well throw a little tropical flavor in your diet.
Really, it’s like I can feel the ocean breeze from here — all 52 sopping-wet degrees of it.
What: Ackee and saltfish, $17.95 (can only be ordered in-restaurant for dine-in or takeout)
Where: Jamaican Breeze Sports Bar and Grill, 4189 N. Keystone Ave., 317-426-4045, jamaicanbreezeindy.com
In case that’s not your thing: Jamaican Breeze’s menu offers plenty of opportunities to enjoy familiar flavors or try something new, from jerk chicken quarters ($9.95) to curry goat ($14.50). While meat options span red snapper filets ($23.50) to oxtail ($21), vegetarians and vegans can enjoy hearty ital stew (root vegetables and okra cooked in seasoned coconut milk, $13.25) and callaloo (braised Jamaican leafy greens, $4.50).
Contact dining reporter Bradley Hohulin at bhohulin@indystar.com. You can follow him on Twitter/X @BradleyHohulin and stay up to date with Indy dining news by signing up for the Indylicious newsletter.
Indianapolis, IN
Retro Indy: For years Marott was Indianapolis’ most luxurious hotel
(A version of this story first appeared in 2020.)
When the Marott Hotel opened at Meridian Street and North Fall Creek Boulevard in 1926, it was a culmination of 30 years planning for George J. Marott.
Born in Daventry, Northamptonshire, England, Marott emigrated to the United States in 1875 at the age of 16 with his parents. He opened a shoe store in 1884 in Indianapolis, using money he earned from his $10 a week salary as a shoe clerk in a store his father operated, according to an obituary in the Indianapolis Star on February 16, 1946.
Eventually one shoe store became several. A consummate businessman, Marott also purchased electric and heating utilities in Kokomo and interurban lines between Kokomo and Marion and Kokomo and Frankfort, though he eventually sold those.
Marott continued to diversify, building the hotel that bears his name. He worked 12 to 15 hours a day all his life, juggling management of the hotel and his shoe business, his obituary said.
The hotel was his pride and joy; it wasn’t just a hotel, it was also a place where Indianapolis’ high society resided just as New York society did at the Waldorf-Astoria and the Plaza Hotel. Booth Tarkington, Meredith Nicholson and widows of Indianapolis’ long-dead tycoons all took up residence.
“I saw in this property,” Marott said, “the opportunity some to erect some kind of a monumental edifice to the city which I have loved so well and as the time draws near for the realization of a dream, I am convinced anew that my dreams to hold this property for the purpose to which it now is dedicated have been fulfilled.”
Limousines lined the property’s semi-circular drive as visitors in tails and minks arrived to be entertained in the Marott’s Marble Ballroom, Reef Room and Crystal Dining Room.
The hotel guest list over the years was as impressive as the structure itself: Clark Gable, Paul Newman, Marilyn Monroe, John F. Kennedy, Bob Hope, Babe Ruth, Herbert Hoover, Helen Hayes and Lauren Bacall.
In 1932, Winston Churchill, then a member of British Parliament, arrived in Indianapolis by train with his daughter, Diana. They were given a hearty welcome by Indianapolis dignitaries, including Mayor Reginald Sullivan, then spirited away to the Marott Hotel where they stayed.
That evening Churchill spoke before a crowd of 1,200 at the Murat Theater on the “destiny of English-speaking peoples.” Churchill was still nursing wounds suffered in a car accident on New York’s Fifth Avenue just months before and did little Indianapolis sightseeing or socializing, but he was entertained by his fellow countryman, George Marott.
Churchill was so impressed with the hotel that he carried back to England a complete plan of the hotel. Marott and Churchill developed a friendship that lasted until Marott’s death in 1946.
A 1940 Indianapolis Star article noted Marott’s career attracted the attention of numerous authors who wanted to write a book about his life, which he found distasteful. Churchill was the most eminent author he refused. When Churchill returned to England, he sent Marott one of his books — an autobiography as proof of his writing ability. Marott cherished the autographed book, even though the text misspelled his name as “Marrot.”
Marott was also known for his generosity. Over the course of his life, he gave away more than $500,000, according to his obituary. Shortly before his death, he donated his shoe store empire to Butler University and his veteran employees, an Indianapolis Star story on January 27 of that year reported. About 20 years later, the employees bought out Butler.
At the age of 87, Marott died in his apartment in the hotel that bore his name. After flourishing for several decades, the Marott Shoe Company closed its downtown store at 18 East Washington Street in June 1978. A few years later, its remaining suburban stores closed as well.
By the 1970s, the Marott had gone through several owners and become low-income apartments. The Marott got a shot in the arm with extensive renovations, and today the Marott apartments are owned by Van Rooy Companies. The hotel was listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1982.
Indianapolis, IN
1 critical after shooting on near east side of Indianapolis
INDIANAPOLIS — One person is in critical condition following a shooting on Indy’s near east side.
According to the Indianapolis Metropolitan Police Department, around 8:10 p.m., officers were called to the 2000 block of East Washington Street on reports of a person shot.
Upon arrival, police located a 50-year-old man with injuries consistent with a gunshot wound.
He is currently reported to be in extremely critical condition.
No additional information has been made available at the time of this article’s publication.
This is a developing story; check back for updates.
Indianapolis, IN
Indiana regulators approve $71 million rate increase for AES
The Indiana Utility Regulatory Commission on June 17 gave AES the nod to raise electricity rates enough to earn an additional $71 million each year, a decision that drew reproof from Indiana lawmakers who called it another blow to cost-burdened consumers.
The approved rate represents less than half of the $192 million increase that AES initially requested. It’s also less than the $91 million increase proposed in an October settlement agreement between AES, the city of Indianapolis and major electricity consumers like Kroger and Walmart.
But the new rate is still significantly more than what the Indiana Office of Utility Consumer Counselor, the state agency representing ratepayers in the case, recommended in September. The OUCC’s proposal would have capped AES’s annual operating revenue at $21 million less than the current level.
The rate increase authorizes AES to earn a total of nearly $2 billion each year, or an estimated $384 million in profit.
The higher base rate comes as a double whammy for Indianapolis-area households, who are already paying more for electricity this summer after AES temporarily raised rates to account for higher-than-anticipated fuel costs during last winter’s storms. The increase also arrives against the backdrop of inflation, which rose to a three-year high last month, and surging gas prices due to the war in Iran.
Gov. Mike Braun wrote in a Wednesday post to X that he was “deeply disappointed” by the IURC’s approval of the rate increase.
“Hoosiers have spent years tightening their belts and making tough financial decisions,” Braun wrote. “It’s time for utility companies to do the same.”
The IURC’s decision also drew fire from the other side of the aisle. In a June 17 news release, five Democrats representing Indianapolis in the state Senate – J.D. Ford, Andrea Hunley, La Keisha Jackson, Fady Qaddoura, and Greg Taylor – chastised Indiana’s Republican supermajority for failing to rein in rising utility costs.
“Hoosiers pay more. Monopoly utilities collect more. And the leaders in the super-majority who promise affordability over and over again show those are just empty words,” the news release said. “Instead, they continue to defend a system that takes more and more out of our paychecks.”
The consumer advocacy group Citizens Action Coalition also slammed the rate increase. Ben Inskeep, CAC’s program director, said the decision left him “less optimistic that this commission is willing to do things differently and to actually hold utilities accountable.”
He said the IURC should have penalized AES for issues that plagued customers after the utility updated its billing system in 2023, including duplicated withdrawals for the same monthly bill.
The rate increase will take effect in two phases, with rates going up in July 2026 and January 2027. AES officials anticipate the hikes “will be less than $5 per month per phase” for a household that uses 1,000 kilowatt hours of electricity per month, according to a Wednesday news release from the utility.
“The IURC’s decision reflects a thorough, transparent process and balances the need for continued investment in the electric system with a focus on customer affordability,” the news release stated.
Under a state law that Braun signed in February, AES cannot ask for another increase to its base rate until January 2030 — though electricity bills could still go up for other reasons, like the fuel adjustment charge hitting consumers this month.
Three members of the five-member IURC signed off on the rate increase: Andy Zay, David Veleta, and David Ziegner. Commissioner Bob Deig dissented. Commissioner Anthony Swinger recused himself from the decision because he worked on the AES rate case for the OUCC before he was appointed to the IURC by Braun in January.
“None of this was taken lightly,” Zay, the IURC’s chair, said at the Wednesday hearing, adding that the commission and its staff had carefully weighed concerns about affordability. The commissioners did not go into further detail at the hearing.
But the commission’s order shows some of the debates that played out during the rate case. One point of contention was AES’s authorized return on equity — that is, how much the utility can earn each year in profits. Other disputes hinged on how AES forecasts its operating expenses.
The OUCC accused AES of including more than 100 “phantom hires,” vacant positions it did not necessarily intend to fill in its calculations. Last year, AES said that the rising costs of vegetation management, or trimming trees around power lines, also drove the need to raise rates. The OUCC recommended keeping vegetation management costs flat.
One factor that’s not driving higher prices? Data centers.
AES does not currently provide service to any data centers and did not include them in its calculations, AES president Brandi Davis-Handy said in testimony before the IURC.
Tilly Robinson is a Pulliam fellow for the Indianapolis Star. She can be reached at tilly.robinson@indystar.com.
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