Illinois Fines Chicago-Area Brewery for Cicada-Infused Malort

The state has fined a suburban brewery an undisclosed amount after they served a special infusion of Jeppson’s Malört with cicadas, celebrating the insects’ 2024 emergence. Noon Whistle Brewing Co. in Lombard made headlines in May for combining Chicago’s infamous liquor with bugs foraged from a neighboring park.

The Illinois Liquor Control Commission’s March report includes a blurb that does not mention Noon Whistle, but it refers to a licensee selling an infusion containing cicadas: “The licensee was cited for the violation and was provided education on the issue.” A message to an ILCC rep wasn’t immediately returned. Noon Whistle’s co-founder Mike Condon confirmed the fine over email and wrote he preferred not to share more info.

In May, Noon Whistle compared its cicada-infused malört to tequilas bottles with worms. They charged $5 per shot, and it was available for a limited time. Malört infusions are all the rage, as neighborhood bars are mixing ingredients like pumpkin spice and candy cane into the liquor. Even outside of Chicago, bartenders are unveiling sinister concoctions with the bitter spirit. The liquor is so storied that former Chicago Tribune beer writer Josh Noel has written a book, Malort: The Redemption of a Revered & Reviled Spirit, that will be released on September 3.

Local authorities have long held concerns about spirit infusions made at taverns and restaurants, worried that bartenders would ignore the science and allow bacteria to grow while waiting for flavors to develop. Plenty has changed over the years in terms of information available to the general public. For example, the Illinois Liquor Control Act of 1934 wasn’t written to take into account homebrewers; the Internet has helped better educate folks. The act does include a 14-day limit for infusions and bottles have to be clearly labeled with the start and end dates and listed the ingredients used. The state law also defines infusions as using “ingredients, including, but not limited to, fruits, spices, or nuts, are added to naturally infuse flavor into the spirit.”

Bugs aren’t listed. But neither is bacon — Chicago went through a phase, in the late 2010s, when bartenders were gleefully infusing spirits, like bourbon, with pork. There weren’t reported fines. However, presumably, they weren’t hunting pigs and curing their own bacon. They weren’t hunting wild pigs, they were buying a product from a store or butcher. There’s no such facility to procure food-grade cicadas.

Keep this in mind when cicadas remerge in Illinois in 2037.

Lollapalooza sightings

Last week, Chappell Roan drew the largest crowd ever at Lollapalooza, with organizers claiming the star attracted the largest festival audience ever during a Thursday, August 1 performance with a legion of about 80,000 fans in Grant Park gathering in front of her stage. Of course, these folks have to eat and River North restaurants feasted on the opportunities to feed celebs. Two days before, Roan sampled seafood in River North at Sushi-san. A rep says it was a low-key visit and the singer was barely noticed at the restaurant, part of the Lettuce Entertain You Enterprises group.

Lettuce has long been a company that draws celebrities and works with concert promoters to feed VIPs. With that in mind, it’s unsurprising that Kesha also found her way to Three Dots and a Dash where a rep says she threw a party for her band and took selfies in the bathroom. Meanwhile, The Killers, whose hit Mr. Brightside has found renewed life in clubs from Northalsted to River North, also played Lolla and the band dined at Lettuce’s Italian restaurant, Il Porcellino. This was while California singer-songwriter Dasha headed to Bub City and sang while they line danced, inspired by the performer’s viral TikTok. Rounding it out, Pierce The Veil did the most punk thing conceivable: They ate dinner at RPM Steak. The band also ate dinner with Blink-182’s Tom DeLonge at Miru the Japanese restaurant inside the St. Regis Chicago. Singer and actress Reneé Rapp (Mean Girls) was joined by Remi Wolf for dinner at RPM Seafood.

Other sightings included the K-pop group Stray Kids who visited Bonyeon, the steak omakase in West Loop. Icelandic singer/musician Laufey dined at Publican Quality Meats and was tended to by head chef and butcher Rob Levitt.

But life wouldn’t be the same without a Kardashian mention. Kourtney Kardashian, who has embraced more of a vegan diet, ate at Penelope’s Tacos in River North and posted a photo on Instagram.