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Where Do Your Spices Come From?

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Where Do Your Spices Come From?

In 2012, Ethan Frisch was working for a development organization in Afghanistan when he saw a vendor selling wild cumin at a local market.

“I thought I knew my way around spices,” said Mr. Frisch, 38, recalling his experience at the market in Badakhshan Province. “But I had never tasted anything like this.”

Mr. Frisch had worked as a cook in London, where he attended graduate school for international development, and in New York, including time at Tabla, the fine-dining Indian restaurant by the chef Floyd Cardoz and the restaurateur Danny Meyer. He started bringing bags of cumin home to New York to share with friends in the restaurant industry, garnering rave reviews with each taste. He realized that there was a market for spices sourced directly from farmers.

In 2016, he started Burlap & Barrel, a single-origin spice company, with his friend Ori Zohar. The two had collaborated years earlier on Guerrilla Ice Cream, a roving ice cream cart that served flavors inspired by political and activist movements. Mr. Zohar came from a business background, working in marketing and advertising, and helped found a tech start-up that shut down in 2017.

Mr. Frisch put his life savings — about $20,000 — into starting the business. He ran it out of his one-bedroom apartment in Queens, cold-calling restaurants and showing up to kitchens with a backpack full of spices to give chefs a taste. He built up a base of spice suppliers, using skills and connections he developed while working with the Aga Khan Foundation on rural infrastructure projects in Afghanistan, and doing logistics for Doctors Without Borders in Jordan.

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For years, Mr. Frisch and Mr. Zohar flew overseas to stock up on inventory, returning with duffel bags full of cardamom, cumin, nutmeg and more. They would bring back enough spices to “fund the cost of the trip,” Mr. Frisch said. (“I had some funny conversations with the customs officers,” he added.)

In 2019, Burlap & Barrel embarked on its first chef collaboration: a line of masala spice blends with Mr. Cardoz.

After Mr. Cardoz died from Covid-19 in March 2020, his wife, Barkha Cardoz, continued to work with Burlap & Barrel, releasing the blends in October 2020, in honor of what would have been Mr. Cardoz’s 60th birthday. The company received more than a thousand orders that day — its biggest day of sales at that time.

The founders realized that there was “a way to connect a home-cook audience to a chef, through a spice blend,” Mr. Frisch said, and collaborations became a core part of their business. Amid the early months of the pandemic, Mr. Frisch and Mr. Zohar saw an increase in orders as more people made their meals at home.

In April 2023, another breakthrough moment came when they appeared on the reality TV show “Shark Tank.”

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“It almost doesn’t even taste like conventional cinnamon — I mean, it’s, like, incomparable,” Gwyneth Paltrow, a guest “Shark,” said after trying the brand’s Royal Cinnamon variety from Vietnam.

Mr. Frisch and Mr. Zohar didn’t end up with a deal, but they gained publicity and a surge of new customers. In 2024, the company did about $9 million in sales, according to Mr. Frisch.

Over the years, they have collaborated with chefs including Marc Murphy; Ashleigh Shanti; Sohla and Ham El-Waylly, who are New York Times contributors; and the fashion designer and cookbook author Peter Som. Recently, they teamed up with Martha Stewart on a poultry seasoning, and with Jane Goodall on jars of honey from the Miombo woodlands of Tanzania.

Now, more than eight years later, what began as a scrappy passion project is a growing brand and social enterprise with big-name collaborations, home-cook devotees, celebrity fans and cameos in the background of the FX show “The Bear.”

The chefs Omar Tate and Cybille St. Aude-Tate, founders of Honeysuckle Provisions, an Afrocentric grocery and cafe in West Philadelphia that was named one of Eater’s best new restaurants of 2023, collaborated with Burlap & Barrel. They wanted to work with them, Mr. Tate said, both because of the sheer flavor of the spices, and because of their ethical and intentional approach to working with farmers.

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“They make sure that the communities that they are sourcing from are respected — not just through the ingredients that are being extracted and that they’re exporting to make these profits, but they’re also redistributing that wealth to the community,” Mr. Tate said.

At Hani’s Bakery and Cafe in Lower Manhattan — a new spot from Miro Uskokovic, the former Gramercy Tavern pastry chef, and his wife, Shilpa Uskokovic, an editor at Bon Appétit — Burlap & Barrel’s Royal Cinnamon is used in their popular malted cinnamon buns.

The cinnamon “is the only one we’ve found that offers the right combination of strength and florality to stand up to all that cream cheese and butter,” Mr. Uskokovic wrote in an email.

“As a chef, the one thing that we have always lacked is any kind of traceability or any kind of transparency in spices, in herbs,” said Rick Bayless, the celebrated Chicago chef and restaurateur who specializes in Mexican cuisine. “When I found Burlap & Barrel, I wanted to get to know these guys and see what they were doing, because they were telling stories about who grew this cumin and who grew these peppercorns.”

Transparency and storytelling is at the heart of the business. As what’s known as a public benefit corporation — a for-profit company that focuses on contributing to a social good — Burlap & Barrel seeks “to connect smallholder farmers to high-value markets,” said Mr. Zohar, 39.

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“Our business works because we’re paying the farmers more, which then allows the farmers to not just grow the spices, but they clean the spices, they dry the spices, they grind the spices, they prepare them for export,” he said.

The company now consists of 20 people, most of whom are contractors, and works with farmers in about 30 countries including Vietnam, Turkey and Guatemala, often helping with the logistics of the export process. The founders visit farms to meet the farmers and see firsthand the practices and products of each potential partner.

Shadel Nyack Compton, the owner and managing director of Belmont Estate, a family farm and tourist destination in Grenada, works with Burlap & Barrel to sell nutmeg and bay leaves. The farm — whose main crop is cocoa — has been in her family for 80 years.

In 2021, Ms. Nyack Compton found Burlap & Barrel online. She was looking for new business and wanted to work with a company that was interested in developing a relationship with farmers. “We want our story to be told,” she said.

“Spices represent a lot to a lot of different people,” Mr. Frisch said. “A spice jar becomes a way to tell a story, to evoke a memory, to teach about a culture or a cuisine, to give someone the opportunity to do their own cooking in a different way.”

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Burlap & Barrel is unique, Ms. Nyack Compton said, because the company works to “establish this kind of equitable, transparent supply chain,” an approach she said is more often seen in the cocoa and chocolate space. With spices, she said, “it’s very novel.”

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Olympic figure skating starts with the team event. Here’s what to know about it

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Olympic figure skating starts with the team event. Here’s what to know about it

Alysa Liu, one of the skaters representing the U.S. in the team event, practices at the Milano Ice Skating Arena on Monday.

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Olympic figure skating kicks off Friday with the team competition, in which the U.S. is heavily favored to hold off rival Japan and defend its gold medal from 2022.

The team event is relatively new, making its debut in the 2014 Sochi Games. It pits the world’s 10 top-ranked countries against each other, via representatives in each of the four skating disciplines: men’s, women’s, pairs and ice dance.

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Countries get points (1-10) depending on how they score in the first two events (short program and rhythm dance), and the top five move on to the final round (free skate and free dance).

The main battle to watch is between the U.S. and Japan, who finished as the top two in 2022 after Russia was disqualified over a doping case involving one of its skaters. The absence of Russia — still banned from the Games over its war in Ukraine — means that the third medal is somewhat up for grabs.

“There are so many countries vying for that bronze spot,” Canadian ice dancer Piper Gilles said. “There’s Georgia, there’s us, everybody’s pushing for it.”

Part of the suspense is finding out who each country will choose to compete in each category, which is usually announced about 24 hours in advance.

It’s not as simple as just picking the top scorer in each discipline. It requires some strategizing, since anyone who competes in the team event will still have to take the ice two more times in their own category over the next two weeks.

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“It’s all going to come down to the decisions that the athletes and the people in charge make,” U.S. skater Amber Glenn said earlier this week. “We are going to prioritize both physical and mental health.”

Take the men, for example. Their free skate closes out the team event on Sunday, just two days before their first day of individual competition.

So countries have to decide whether their strongest skater should compete in both programs of the team event, or skip one of them to get some rest in between. Each country can swap up to two (out of four) entries midway through the competition.

The U.S. has an advantage here, in part because of the sheer size of its 16-person team, having secured maximum quota spots in men’s, women’s and ice dance. The next biggest teams, Japan and Canada, have 12 people each.

“This team in particular is so deep, so talented, and has a great opportunity for a gold medal,” U.S. ice dancer Evan Bates said earlier this week, before the roster was even announced.

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Here’s what we know so far.

Who is competing when? 

Friday opens with the three shorter programs in women’s, pairs and ice dance.

The U.S. has chosen Alysa Liu — the 20-year-old reigning world champion and two-time Olympian — to compete in the women’s category, at least in the first part of the team event. Earlier this week, when asked whether women might split that category, Liu told reporters “we all signed an NDA for that!”

Her main competition is three-time world champion Kaori Sakamoto, who won bronze in 2022 in addition to helping Japan win silver in the team event.

In pairs, U.S. is putting forward 2024 national champions Ellie Kam and Danny O’Shea. They face a steep challenge from Japan’s Miura Riku and Kihara Ryuichi, two-time Olympians and two-time world champions.

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Representing the U.S. in ice dance are powerhouses Madison Chock and Evan Bates, reigning seven-time national champions who helped Team USA win gold in this very event in 2022. They are hoping for a repeat this year, which marks their fourth Olympics together.

“Any time you get the opportunity to compete at the Olympics, you want to cherish it, so there’s nothing but positives for us here,” Chock said earlier this week.

What’s next? 

The team event continues on Saturday with the last ice dance program — the free dance — and the first men’s event, the short program.

The U.S. has chosen gold medal favorite Ilia Malinin, who could become the first person to ever land a quadruple axel on Olympic ice. 

But it’s not clear whether Malinin will take that risk as early as the team event, especially since he doesn’t need it in order to top the leaderboard. He won U.S. championships in January by more than 50 points even without the quad axel, playing it somewhat safe (if you consider a backflip on ice safe) as he broke in new skates. 

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Saturday is also when we’ll find out who will represent Team USA in the final half of team competition, in other words, which two athletes will sub out. Sunday concludes with the free skate — the longer, more creative program — in pairs, women’s and men’s.

On Sunday, once all the points are tallied, the first figure skating medals of these Games will be given out. And there will be more to come — the first ice dance competitions start the very next day.

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Rep. Sara Jacobs Says Congress Is Basically Like High School

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Rep. Sara Jacobs Says Congress Is Basically Like High School

Rep. Sara Jacobs
High School Drama Never Ends … In Congress!!!

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A “Jane Doe” in the R. Kelly trials is ready to share her real name. And her story.

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A “Jane Doe” in the R. Kelly trials is ready to share her real name. And her story.

Reshona Landfair’s memoir tells the story of the then-teenaged “Jane Doe” seen in a video that led to her testimony in singer R. Kelly’s trials on child pornography and other charges.

Grand Central Publishing/Courtesy of Hachette Book Group.


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Grand Central Publishing/Courtesy of Hachette Book Group.

Reshona Landfair met R. Kelly when she was a pre-teen in 1996. Starstruck, along with the rest of her community, Landfair says she fell victim to his grooming tactics, followed by years of sexual, physical and emotional abuse. When an infamous videotape of Kelly abusing Landfair became public, she described feeling isolated, subject to the whims of her abuser, and known only in the courts and to the world as “Jane Doe.”

A photo of the author, Reshona Landfair.

A photo of the author, Reshona Landfair.

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When asked how she felt after the tape surfaced publicly, Landfair told All Things Considered host Juana Summers, “It was everything that I hear about prison.”

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“It was very traumatizing. It was very hurtful and lonely,” Landfair added.

The video was shown to the juries in two of Kelly’s trials on child pornography charges: first, in 2008, which ended in his acquittal, and again in 2022, which resulted in Kelly’s conviction.

Landfair’s new memoir, Who’s Watching Shorty? Reclaiming Myself from the Shame of R. Kelly’s Abuse, details her turbulent adolescence and escape from a long cycle of exploitation, as she seeks to be a voice for other survivors.

Listen to the full interview by clicking play on the blue box above.

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