Lifestyle
Their love blossomed in the buzzy L.A. restaurant scene. So what was their wedding food?
It wasn’t love at first anything for Anna Sonenshein when she met Niki Vahle while working at Son of a Gun in 2018. Rather, it started with a feud.
Sonenshein worked as a host, Vahle as a sous chef. She mostly ignored him.
“I was fed up with the kitchen thinking they were better than front-of-house,” she told me, on speakerphone, from the home they now share. “It’s such a common thing in restaurants, and I hate it.”
But, like all good star-crossed stories, the pair fell in love.
“And I beat all that out of Niki,” Sonenshein said.
“She did,” he called from a distance, as he wrangled one of their two dogs, Chicken. “We don’t tolerate any of that now in our restaurant.”
The restaurant in question is the Michelin Guide-inducted Little Fish, which the couple started as a pop-up out of their kitchen window in 2020 and has expanded to two locations: Echo Park and Melrose Hill.
With Little Fish, Sonenshein and Vahle unapologetically mix business, pleasure, family, friendship and food.
Friend of the couple, Hannah Ziskin of Quarter Sheets, made multiple cakes, including a “chef-y” combination of rhubarb with pistachio chiffon and mascarpone custard infused with orange peel, and her classic olive oil chiffon with fresh passionfruit and bay leaf-infused custard. The dog figurine, right, is modeled after the couple’s pets, Chicken and Hank.
(Madelyn Deutch)
It makes sense, then, that their biggest partnership to date — an April 18 wedding — would be a food-first, ceremony-second affair. About 120 guests sardined into the modest backyard of Sonenshein’s Santa Monica childhood home, with a veritable who’s who of the L.A. restaurant scene doing double duty as attendees and vendors.
As the teams behind Mariscos Jaliscos and El Ruso set up trucks out front, Aaron Lindell and Hannah Ziskin of Quarter Sheets conversation-hopped, and Kae Whalen, the L.A. darling wine Substacker (who also runs Little Fish’s wine program), snaked through the crowd with her pint-sized pomeranian under one arm.
In this dark era for L.A. restaurants, where economic fears, fires and ICE have led to countless closures, Sonenshein and Vahle have made a point of building community among restaurant workers and collaborators.
Niki Vahle and Anna Sonenshein, owners of Little Fish, embrace during their backyard wedding.
(Madelyn Deutch)
“When we were starting our businesses, none of us had any knowledge of the back-end stuff,” Ziskin told me. “We figured it out together.”
She and Lindell turned their Quarter Sheets pop-up into a brick-and-mortar in 2022. Little Fish followed the same trajectory a few months later.
“Niki and Anna will answer any question I have,” Ziskin said. “We talk business, money. It’s so rare to have that: friends in the same position who deeply understand what you do.”
Vahle and Sonenshein refer to their friends who also started food businesses during the pandemic as “our class.”
“We’re peers, not competition,” Vahle said. “We share notes; we share everything.”
In January 2025, when the Palisades and Eaton fires ripped through the city, these friends were the ones Sonenshein and Vahle called first as they created a network of almost 200 restaurants to source, cook and deliver meals to displaced families and first responders.
Wedding guests enjoy the grazing table and cake. (Madelyn Deutch)
Catalina Flores, of Panhead LA, curated the abundant grazing table.
(Madelyn Deutch)
As the party waited for Sonenshein and Vahle to appear, guests sipped his and hers wine selections by Whalen: a Domaine Derain “Landre” 2023 for Vahle (“A Niki wine reminds us that beauty, precision and transcendence are possible”), and a Le Mazel “Couvée Paulou” 2024 for Sonenshein (“An Anna wine is often fruity, vibrant, easy to adore and adores easily”).
Meanwhile, like any good father of the bride, Raphe Sonenshein held court at the grazing table, encouraging anyone in earshot to pile plates with charcuterie, taralli and gildas curated by Catalina Flores (Panhead LA) and Ryan Vesper (Gourmet Imports).
The mother of the bride, Phyllis Amaral, shepherded family members to a handful of front-row folding chairs. Everyone else would spend the night standing, balancing plates and, inevitably, spilling some wine.
“Very creative wedding,” said one friend of the family.
The low-key backyard wedding took place at the bride’s childhood home. Her sister, Julia Sonenshein, left, and mother, Phyllis Amaral, wore red.
(Madelyn Deutch)
The couple made their entrance — arm in arm — with Sonenshein in a tea-length, corseted gown and Vahle in a bespoke suit the shade of a Liguria olive.
During their vows, Sonenshein joked that marriage isn’t so scary when you already share six LLCs.
Then, they sealed their newest contract with a kiss.
The applause had barely subsided before a collective hunger took over.
Mariscos Jalisco served shrimp tacos, a nod to the couple’s own restaurant, Little Fish.
(Madelyn Deutch)
Mariscos Jalisco sent out trays of shrimp tacos — a nod to the couple’s seafood origin story — but guests still beelined for the truck, forming a line down the block.
Next door at El Ruso, owner Walter Soto chopped carne asada while his wife, Julia, took orders: two chile colorado; three birria; no onions, please. Their preteen daughter, Suri, played in the front seat of the truck.
“For us, it was something very special to know that we were going to serve food on such a special day to someone so special to us,” Soto said. “I remember seeing Niki several times eating at our food truck during the difficult times of ICE raids. [Then] we had to close our truck for three or four months. Anna and Niki came to my house with a check to help us endure that really bad time. That’s how we met them.”
El Ruso tacos rounded out the menu. Owner Walter Soto said he was honored to serve food at the wedding after the bride and groom supported his business during the ICE raids that dampened his sales.
(Madelyn Deutch)
As for the cake, try two. Both by Ziskin.
“I would have been offended if they hadn’t asked me,” she said.
The first was a Quarter Sheets menu classic: olive oil chiffon with fresh passionfruit and bay leaf-infused custard. Ziskin also created what she calls a “chef-y” combination: rhubarb with pistachio chiffon and mascarpone custard infused with orange peel.
Bride Anna Sonenshein mingles with guests near the El Ruso taco truck.
(Madelyn Deutch)
Before moving the afterparty to Santa Monica’s Not No Bar (co-owner Conner Mitchell is also one of Little Fish’s fishermen), the music cut briefly for speeches.
Julia Sonenshein, the bride’s sister and a sometimes food writer, admitted that she couldn’t separate their love story from a shared love of cooking.
“For these two, the idea that anyone would go without food, whether it’s friends who’ve stopped by for a coffee table meal or families who lost their kitchens in wildfires, is an unconscionable possibility they won’t accept,” she said. “And so they find a way to make sure all of us are fed.”
And what about Sonenshein and Vahle — did someone remind them to eat?
Vahle didn’t hesitate. “How could we forget?”
Lifestyle
‘Hellions’ author Julia Elliott wins $150K fiction prize
Author Julia Elliott won for her short story collection Hellions.
Forrest Clonts/Tin House
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Forrest Clonts/Tin House
Writer Julia Elliott has won this year’s Carol Shields Prize for Fiction for her short story collection Hellions. The award honors work by women and nonbinary authors in the U.S. and Canada.
Elliott, who also authored the novel The New and Improved Romie Futch and the short story collection The Wilds, is known for blending elements of Southern gothic horror, surrealism and fairy tale. Hellions, published in 2025, includes stories set against backdrops like a plague-stricken medieval convent, a feminist art colony, and small Southern towns.
“This eerie, eclectic, genre-leaping collection takes no half-measures; every sentence of Hellions crackles or crawls,” wrote the prize jury in a statement. “Here, human folly moves against a backdrop of horror and magic … But for all its wildness, there is tremendous control.”
The prize, named after a Pulitzer Prize-winning novelist, awards $150,000 to one winner each year. Novels, short story collections, and graphic novels by women and nonbinary authors are eligible.
This year’s finalists included Quiara Alegría Hudes (The White Hot), Lee Lai (Cannon), Megha Majumdar (A Guardian and a Thief), and Sonya Walger (Lion). They will each receive $12,500.
The Carol Shields Prize went to writer Canisia Lubrin in 2025.
You can listen to actor Donna Lynne Champlin read Elliott’s story “Hellion” on the Death, Sex & Money podcast here.
Lifestyle
Video: The Fashion References in ‘Cats: The Jellicle Ball’
new video loaded: The Fashion References in ‘Cats: The Jellicle Ball’
By Helen Shaw, Vanessa Friedman, Léo Hamelin, Laura Salaberry and Sutton Raphael
June 2, 2026
Lifestyle
Inside the all-masc lesbian and translesbian revue electrifying L.A. nightlife
At around 1 in the morning at the Sassafras Saloon in Hollywood, four masc lesbians in cowboy hats and chaps were dancing on top of the bar while bartenders attempted to continue making espresso martinis beneath them.
One performer crawled into the crowd and between the spread legs of an audience member, licking the air between their thighs. Another wrapped a belt around their girlfriend’s neck while thrusting against her to Bon Jovi’s “You Give Love a Bad Name.” The ravenous audience, almost entirely women, fluttered dollar bills all around, while easily filling the saloon’s 300-person capacity.
Across Los Angeles, countless strip clubs and revue shows were unfolding at that same hour, though none quite like this and likely few provoking this level of frenzy. The night had all the riotous energy of a scene from “Coyote Ugly,” with the choreographed masculinity of “Magic Mike.” Playing on the latter’s name, this was the doing of Magic Mascs, an all-masc lesbian and translesbian revue, by sapphics for sapphics.
Skye Valentinez, from left, Alexa Legend, Daddii Syd and King Captain are members of Magic Mascs, an all-masc lesbian and translesbian collective, that started in February.
“Our idea was to give lesbians what men get all the time at a strip club, but instead of just sitting around and singing ‘Pink Pony Club,’ actually going wild,” said group founder Daddii Syd, a.k.a. Syd Latimore.
The performers, self-described “daddies” — Daddii Syd, Alexa Legend, Skye Valentinez and King Captain — formed Magic Mascs in February. The performance at the Saloon was their third overall, but the group has already become an institution within lesbian nightlife in Los Angeles. They will make their debut during a Pride Month performance on Friday at Womxn Pride’s rooftop party in downtown L.A.
The members come from professional dance backgrounds. King Captain entered dance school at age 12 and taught dance for nearly a decade. Daddii Syd has danced since childhood. Alexa Legend spent years go-go dancing across clubs in the city before joining the troupe. Skye Valentinez, the baby of the group — cherub-faced, smiling through braces — is the newest to performing, though she steps into it naturally, exhibiting the same living, breathing caricature of masculinity as the rest of them.
“No one’s trying to be cisgender,” King Captain makes clear. “We’re not trying to be the kind of men who are born into and fed by patriarchy,” Daddii Syd added. “We’re redefining masculinity.”
King Captain gets their underwear stuffed with dollar bills from the crowd.
Magic Mascs’ success follows a broader trend of lesbians confidently stepping into masculinity before hungry eyes. In the past year, performative masc competitions have appeared across the country, with lesbians — hair slicked back and carabiners dangling from their Carhartt jeans — showing off in front of leering crowds. Magic Mascs feels like a more professionalized version of that phenomenon, less tongue-in-cheek — just tongue.
“We always knew there was a huge hunger for this,” Daddii Syd said.
Their first performance, in San Diego, sold out fast.
“I knew right away we were onto something special,” Daddii Syd said.
Videos of the troupe traveled far across sapphics’ algorithms, especially clips of King Captain, whose devoted fan base — known collectively as “The Castle” — make arduous trips just to see them in the flesh. One fan drove more than 20 hours from Dallas to San Diego to see Magic Mascs. Another sent an edible fruit bouquet from Australia.
Backstage, every gesture from the troupe was ultra-confident. Captain, wearing briefs stuffed with a sock full of rice, talked to me with a leg cocked on the footrest of my stool. Daddii Syd, Alexa Legend and Skye Valentinez stood pelvis-forward, hands behind their heads, flexing ropey muscles. They loved the camera, eyeing it like prey while tipping the brims of their cowboy hats. (“You guys are like the modern-day Beatles,” our photographer said.)
King Captain gets the Hollywood crowd into a frenzy during a recent show.
Everything in the show revolved around their hips. The performers rolled and glided before delivering sudden, mechanical thrusts powerful enough to rattle nearby glasses. Their bodies were taut with effort and exaggerated lust. Daddii Syd performed with her girlfriend Jamie in matching plaid, not leaving much to the imagination as they licked whipped cream off each other.
Alexa Legend, who described herself as shy offstage, eventually stripped down to nipple pasties and a cowboy hat, firing confetti from her crotch into the crowd. King Captain swerved their hips like a powerful mechanical bull. “Oh, Captain, my captain,” someone in the crowd said, hand pressed dramatically to her forehead.
They paid particular attention to a woman in a wheelchair in the crowd — typical of their performances — asking if they could sit on the wheelchair. They received keen consent. “That was, um, very nice,” she told me after, still a little lost for words.
“We’re huge on consent,” Daddii Syd said. At the start of the show, they told the crowd to cross their arms in a Wakanda Forever pose if they didn’t wish to be touched. They checked in constantly while moving through the crowd, leaning close to ask questions like, “Is this OK?” and “Anywhere you don’t like to be touched?”
Captain learned these habits through work in intimacy coordination and under the mentorship of Tonia Sina, among the first professional intimacy coordinators in Hollywood. That ethos of care extended beyond their interactions with the audience and into the way they interacted with one another offstage.
“We want everyone in the crowd to feel gorgeous,” King Captain said before the recent show at Sassafras Saloon in Hollywood.
King Captain, left, and Lauren Henson, a stage kitten for the Magic Mascs, perform together on the bar.
Forming a sanctuary for themselves was just as important to the troupe as emboldening others’ desire. “It’s hard to find other masc friends,” Daddii Syd said. “Everybody’s weirdly competitive and trying to sabotage each other.” King Captain agreed, asking: “Why can’t we all be daddies at the same time?”
Daddii Syd and King Captain, who are both in their 30s, had little butch representation or friendship growing up and they have now become something like father figures to Alexa Legend and Skye Valentinez, who are in their 20s.
“We have to protect each other,” King Captain said. “We have to look out for each other.”
Daddii Syd put her arm around Skye Valentinez and said: “Look at this beautiful baby we have.”
That tenderness carried straight into the night. There was a striking seriousness to the whole performance, which spanned from just past 10 p.m. to 2 a.m. Unlike a bachelorette party or the typical male revue, there was no giggling in the room, and no wink of camp from the performers. Here was a rare claim to unabashed public sapphic desire; it was given the scale and seriousness routinely afforded to heterosexual display, like the gleeful bravado of a man striding into Hooters.
By the end of the night at Sassafras Saloon, the performers had stripped down nearly to nothing, pouring water over themselves while the audience roared. The atmosphere felt like one of collective release, a recognition that masculinity and desire don’t belong only to men — that a group of four masc lesbians can be horny, inspire horniness and ultimately stir a hysteria that once greeted Channing Tatum or even the Beatles.
It was the magnitude of the response that night at the Saloon, as on every other night they’ve performed, that’s inspiring their next moves: total domination in sum. The troupe is already planning a national tour through Florida, Dallas and Sacramento, though Daddii Syd’s ambitions extend much further.
“The idea,” she told me, “is to go global. Like a boy band.”
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