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The Indian Jeweler Bhagat Opens a Boutique in London

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The Indian Jeweler Bhagat Opens a Boutique in London

Mr. Bhagat and his two brothers (who are no longer involved) established the business in 1991. He had been inspired to design during a trip to Rome in which, he said, he fell in love with the creations in the windows of Bulgari’s Via Condotti store. As a result, his early designs had a European aesthetic, albeit in yellow gold and colored gems, rather than the heavy gold settings and irregularly cut stones of traditional Indian jewelry.

At the brand’s beginning, Mr. Bhagat’s insistence on creating unique pieces of his own design was a brave one, said Jay, 35. In India’s jewelry-obsessed culture, jewelers commonly make pieces that are tailored to the client’s order. “In India,” Jay said, “everything is made to measure, everything is customizable.”

It was a few years later, when Mr. Bhagat started traveling around India, that he realized his jewelry needed to pay homage to the country’s rich heritage but also move its story forward. “I come from a generation that wanted to show India as a modern India,” he said.

Rahul Kadakia, the international head of jewelry for Christie’s, said Bhagat’s achievements have been impressive considering that India initially was not associated with contemporary high jewelry. “He was the first Indian jeweler to be on the cover of Christie’s catalog, and that was 20 years ago,” he said.

“He appreciates his Indian roots and also the value of Art Deco design and architecture,” Mr. Kadakia said, noting that was what initially set Mr. Bhagat’s work apart and is what continues to make it distinctive. “He combines the two with such fluidity. The stones are floating in their settings, and all you see is the shining light of precious stones.”

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For Mr. Bhagat and his sons, their ultimate aim is to heighten the wearer’s beauty, rather than overshadow it.

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Fine Jewelry Designs Exhibit an Urban Flair

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Fine Jewelry Designs Exhibit an Urban Flair

Imaginative ways of playing with light have long been one of jewelry’s key features, and several brands recently added a cool urban twist to that technique. Fine jewelry collections have been introduced with graphic looks that clearly were inspired by city architecture and echoed the signature geometry of Art Deco design.

When Chopard unveiled the latest additions to its Ice Cube collection in September, for example, the house’s marketing material described the pieces as “sculpted by light,” with gridlike patterns set onto gold rings, earrings, bracelets and necklaces. Rows of tiny gold cubes, some punctuated with diamonds, evoked an evening cityscape twinkling with lights.

Caroline Scheufele, Chopard’s co-president and artistic director, said she took her cue from Bauhaus architecture and its focus on functionality and simplicity. “This minimalist aesthetic appealed to me through its highly graphic lines that use only the original elements, which are light, shape and resistant materials,” she wrote in an email.

And while geometric jewels have been trending for some time, her pieces appear to reflect a pared-back approach. “Minimalism is expressed as an art of living that involves choosing to safeguard essentials, meaning all that is precious and enduring rather than ephemeral,” she wrote. “Ice Cube jewelry embodies this desire to focus on that which is simple, pure, beautiful and lasting.”

The Ice Cube collection includes a variety of pieces, such as rings, hoop earrings, individual ear cuffs and bangles offered in a range of sizes, allowing the wearer to layer or stack pieces according to taste.

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Molly Haylor, the style director at the British edition of Grazia magazine, said the size range reflects the architectural connections of the design trend. “The more adventurous you are with the different ways of stacking, the more exciting it will look and add an element of power to your outfit,” she said. “Because of the shapes and the way they’ve been molded, they all pick up light differently. It does recall the skyscrapers in iconic cities like New York and Chicago or even Tokyo.”

Recent collections at Louis Vuitton and Dior also highlighted graphic looks, notably playing with house design codes.

Louis Vuitton interpreted Damier, the checklike pattern first conceived more than 135 years ago for its trunks and that today adorns products ranging from its ready-to-wear styles to accessories. Now, the motif has found expression in Le Damier de Louis Vuitton fine jewelry collection, featuring diamonds in square settings juxtaposed with polished gold.

The rings are the collection’s most varied pieces, offered in 18-karat white or yellow gold, in different sizes and heights. “When you put them all together they’re like a Lego piece that builds this beautiful structure,” said Ms. Haylor, who added that a graphic, cuff look also could be achieved by stacking Le Damier’s tennis bracelet-inspired bangles.

At Dior, the feminine My Dior collection incorporated the maison’s signature cannage pattern, a lattice look seen on its handbags that is a nod to Christian Dior’s first fashion show. During that event in 1947 at Dior headquarters in Paris, guests sat on Napoleon III chairs with the mesh pattern, which now has made its way to My Dior’s line of rings, earrings and bracelets.

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For each piece, the lattice of fine golden strands is created by hand, then a strip of mirror-polished gold is inserted behind the grid to create a play of light between the strands and the strip. (The light is enhanced even more by the diamonds set in some pieces). The collection debuted in September in 18-karat pink gold or white gold, then in late November expanded into yellow gold, with black lacquer for contrast.

Such large heritage houses are not the only ones to adopt the style.

Jessica McCormack’s new Tapestry collection may recall the embroidered friendship bracelets of the 1980s, but the London-based jeweler said she had been inspired by all manner of graphic forms: mosaics, 1920s floor tiles, murals, even the Tetris video game. The result was a blend of pattern and color, with bold patterns such as the chevron created from emeralds and pink and blue sapphires.

Executing the designs was a complex process, however, as each stone had to be set onto a tiny gold tile, then strung together. “It creates this fabric, liquid-like movement,” said Ms. McCormack, adding, “It was a bit of a nightmare. But I do think the best things always are.”

The colors really pop, she noted, thanks to the rhodium treatment that creates an outline around each tile: blackened white and yellow gold for the blue sapphires and emeralds and blackened white and rose gold for the pink sapphires.

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The biggest surprise of the collection, Ms. McCormack said, was seeing clients wearing the bracelets alongside their watches, something she attributes to the bangle’s design and its flat clasp. “It sits beautifully with either an Apple watch or Cartier Tank,” she said. “It can work with a watch, which not all bracelets do well.”

Not far from Ms. McCormack’s boutique in the Mayfair district of London is Hirsh, which has unveiled a new line of diamond-set earrings, bangles and rings in architectural eight- or nine-side shapes.

The design took years to perfect, said Sophia Hirsh, the company’s managing director, with time spent considering the form of the designs, their wearability and ergonomics.

Thanks to the various angles, the jewels deliver wonderful reflections of light, she said. “When the light hits the diamonds and you have these slightly different angles, it will always pick up a lot of extra sparkle,” Ms. Hirsh noted. “It’s a little bit more playful to wear. You want to touch it and feel the different angles.”

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How to have the best Sunday in L.A., according to Bozoma Saint John

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How to have the best Sunday in L.A., according to Bozoma Saint John

The first home Bozoma Saint John bought in L.A. was a condo in Marina del Rey.

“It was the first time I bought anything on my own, and it was such a boost to my confidence,” said the entrepreneur, marketing executive and star of “Real Housewives of Beverly Hills.” “L.A. has been an interesting place for me from a real estate standpoint.”

Sunday Funday infobox logo with colorful spot illustrations

In Sunday Funday, L.A. people give us a play-by-play of their ideal Sunday around town. Find ideas and inspiration on where to go, what to eat and how to enjoy life on the weekends.

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Saint John has called L.A. home for 11 years, having moved from New York City after her husband died in 2013. “L.A. felt like a refuge that was new and exciting,” she said. “It’s where I’ve found myself in a second act.”

This month, Saint John was one of the tens of thousands of people who lost their homes in the devastating Palisades fire. When we checked in with her in the aftermath of the destruction, she said: “My God, I feel like I’m in purgatory.”

Saint John acknowledged that she is privileged to have a second home, but the loss is still extremely significant to her, as this house in Malibu was one she had “prayed for.”

“I fought for every single inch of that property: from the process of getting it, which is its own terrible story, to the 25 years of work so that I could afford it,” she said. “Nothing that I own has ever been given to me. On top of that, I was intentional with the house in how I revamped it and decorated it so that it wasn’t just mine, but really for my people.”

Typically in the Sunday Funday column, notable folks in L.A. share a play-by-play of their ideal day in the city. But this week, in the wake of the fires, we had a conversation with Saint John about her recent reflections on L.A. and the meaning of “home.” In Sunday Funday form, we also chatted about her favorite places in town. Because, as she says, “That’s home too.”

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This interview has been lightly edited for length and clarity.

What was it like moving from New York to L.A.?

Los Angeles felt like home immediately. Maybe it was because of my mindset that I had coming here. I’m not ashamed to say that I was running away from something. I think people often say you shouldn’t run from something in order to go to something. And I’m like, “Why the hell not?” Like, yes, I ran away, and I found Los Angeles, and I said, “I’m gonna make this home.”

What made you want to settle in Malibu? What was it like being a Black female homeowner in Malibu?

I wanted to be in Malibu because I love the water. And Malibu feels like it’s worlds away, even though it’s close enough that I could escape and have a sanctuary without having to book a flight or drive three hours. Someplace where I didn’t have to pack a bag.

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And it was very, very, very difficult to get it. First of all, I think we all know the inventory is not [vast], especially if you want to live on the west side of the Pacific Coast Highway. The second thing is that there’s not a lot of diversity when it comes to ownership of homes in that particular strip. I had come up against situations where I put in an offer above asking and was rejected, so I knew that I had to probably find another way to eventually get accepted. I had to put the offer in a trust inside a trust in order to buy that house, so it wasn’t [obvious that it was] me, and that’s how I got it.

I know it’s early, but what do you plan to do? Do you expect to rebuild or settle somewhere else?

Man, I don’t even know. All those questions are in my head right now. There’s a part of me that is a fighter. I’m somebody who doesn’t take no for an answer, and it feels like somebody was trying to tell me no. It’s like, “Well, screw you. I’m coming back.” And then there’s the practical side of me, which is like, “Girl, you don’t want to go through this again.” But where is safe? Where can I go where there will be a guarantee that nothing happens? And is that the kind of life I want to live? I don’t want to make decisions based on my fear of something tragic happening And so my instinctual feeling is that I’ll rebuild.

What do you like best and least about living in L.A.?

I’m gonna sound [like such a] Coloradan and New Yorker, but I love the weather. You can’t beat the weather in L.A. Year-round, I don’t have to worry about wearing a coat too often. I can wear open-toed shoes whenever I want. Can’t beat that. It’s so fantastic.

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What do I love least? Traffic. This is why I always try to triangulate where I live, work and where my daughter goes to school, so I don’t have to be involved in too much traffic.

So living in Malibu and being a girl who doesn’t like the cold, do you ever get in the water?

Let me tell you something: No, I don’t [laughs]. I will walk in up to my calves. But that’s the beauty of living in Malibu, your house is your house. Like, I don’t have to make use of getting in the water because there’s no expiration date. When you’re visiting a place, because you’re there for a short amount of time, you feel like, “Oh, I gotta jump in because if I don’t I will never have another chance to.” But prior to this, I would always say, “Ah, next time I’ll go in.”

If you had a perfect L.A. Sunday, what would you do and where would you go?

I’d probably start off going to Reparations Club. I just love all kinds of books, but right now mostly historical fiction based on women’s stories. The last good book I read was Margaret George’s “The Memoirs of Cleopatra.” It’s like 700 pages. And I just love it because I think everybody has an opinion on who Cleopatra was, and this turns it a little bit on its head. You really see the woman, the mother, the warrior.

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I would then probably want to go get something to eat [at the restaurant] Issa Rae just [opened], Somerville. It’s Sunday, so I’m drinking right away. I like Issa’s bubbly, that feels like a nice Sunday drink. And then I would probably want to hit up the All Chill Hip Hop Ice Cream Shop for dessert. I’m a vanilla ice cream type of girl. Maybe you can throw a little chocolate sauce on there, maybe some nuts, but just two scoops of vanilla is good for me.

And then maybe a wine spot like 1010 Wine. And then after all this eating, I probably would want to go take a nap. I’m wearing what I wore [out] and I’m sleeping on the couch. No blanket [laughs]. You can’t nap with the blanket because otherwise you know you’re gonna be asleep.

Afterward, I would definitely hit the gym: Strong House Fitness; shout-out to the owner of the gym, Jerry Housey. He’s amazing. And because it’s Sunday, it’s probably a cardio day. So I’ll run on the treadmill. Actually, I’ll probably run from my house, but it’s not too far so don’t be impressed.

And I’d probably end it at a spa like Elle Marie Spa with a facial or something to brighten my face. I don’t want layers of skin taken off or anything like that. I want one that massages, something that feels soft and relaxing that can take me into the evening right after this full day where I’ve worked out.

After that, I’m going home and getting ready for Monday. I’m thankful to be in a position where almost everything on my calendar I chose to be there. So I like to see what’s coming up, what I need to prepare for. Maybe hitting people up on Sunday like, “Hey, I’m so excited to meet with you this week.” That always feels good. I like to put good energy into meetings. When people feel like you are looking forward to seeing them, the meeting ends up being better. Maybe they were feeling the Sunday scaries, but now they don’t feel that.

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Jennifer Lopez Performs Her Song 'All I Have' at Sundance Party

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Jennifer Lopez Performs Her Song 'All I Have' at Sundance Party

JENNIFER LOPEZ
IMPROMPTU PERFORMANCE AT SUNDANCE

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