Lifestyle
San Vicente Bungalows Is Coming to NYC’s West Village
There was no image of Lady Gaga at 3 a.m., hanging near the wall with various members of Arcade Fire and Eddie Vedder. No images of Kevin Costner, single and ready to mingle by the bar. No images of Cher and Lauryn Hill over at the banquettes of the softly lit dining room. The owners of San Vicente West Village had made sure that no paparazzi could be found inside last Friday, despite the fact that some of the biggest names in music and Hollywood had come for a party after the Saturday Night Live 50th-anniversary concert at Radio City Music Hall.
Had any of those images been beamed across the internet, it might have built a sense that the first event at SVB, which officially opens in March, was a rager for the ages.
Perhaps that is the point: You had to be there.
Among New Yorkers who flock to power and crave exclusivity, the upcoming opening of Los Angeles’s best private club is being greeted with a sense of urgency that is second only to the future of democracy.
“Everyone in fashion has been talking about this club, whether to join, how to get on the list,” said Kendall Werts, a founder of the Jeffries, an agency at the intersection of branding and celebrity.
San Vicente West Village is the brainchild of Jeff Klein, a businessman with a long track record in hospitality, who opened San Vicente Bungalows Los Angeles in 2018.
In the 1990s, Mr. Klein bet that hotels would be to that decade what nightclubs had been to the 1980s.
In 2004, Mr. Klein spent $18 million to buy the dilapidated Sunset Tower Hotel in Los Angeles. It went on to become the town’s premier canteen for moguls and movie stars (think: Jennifer Aniston, Jeff Bezos, George Clooney) and, for several years, it was the site of Vanity Fair’s famous Oscars party.
Mr. Klein also teamed up with the magazine’s former editor, Graydon Carter, on the Monkey Bar, a restaurant in Midtown Manhattan.
But the real follow-up to the Sunset Tower was the San Vicente Bungalows, a members-only club that changed how celebrities could socialize.
A cynic might say the idea was to create a safe space for the town’s best-known and best-connected people, one where they could gawk at and hit on one another without having those moments memorialized in a bad iPhone picture taken by a tourist. (The club requires all guests to cover their phone cameras with stickers for the duration of their stay.) The challenges associated with navigating Los Angeles’s sprawl also worked in the club’s favor. With fewer ways to run into people, they settled into picking one.
Dues ran around $4,000, not including initiation fees that ranged from $3,000 to $15,000, depending on age. Among those who joined were Jennifer Lopez, Lady Gaga, Rihanna and Tom Ford.
“When I’m in L.A., if I’m not eating at home, I’m at San Vicente. Before that, I was at Tower Bar,” Mr. Ford said by phone last week. “It’s like I’m at home. They know my favorite table and what I like. My Coca-Cola arrives before I ask for it. You feel Jeff’s presence in every way.”
After the coronavirus pandemic, an idea began to gnaw at Mr. Klein: Might he be able to bottle the magic in Los Angeles and bring it back to the city he’d left behind?
In short order, he decided to test his luck at the Jane Hotel, a red brick West Village landmark along the West Side Highway.
The blowback and intrigue from New Yorkers began as soon as the first invitations to join were extended. A select group of current members were instructed to invite their friends or people who they thought should be members. In emails, those new insiders were given the rare opportunity to join without the formal review process that most members were subjected to. The membership is being vetted by Gabe Doppelt, a British magazine editor who cut her teeth as the assistant to Anna Wintour and Tina Brown. After going on to be the editor of Mademoiselle, she oversaw Hollywood coverage at W magazine and The Daily Beast.
People who did not get invites were angry about not being invited. People who did get invites were angry about the fees, especially the older ones and some of the most creative ones who were not high-net-worth individuals. Prospective invitees were asked to upload their drivers licenses so that their age-adjusted fees could be determined. No one liked that.
It so happens that San Vicente’s annual fees are in the same ballpark as those of other New York City private social clubs, such as Casa Cipriani and Chez Margaux. They’re considerably cheaper than the Core Club’s.
A fair amount of debate began about whether the city had enough juice left to create a lasting clubhouse full of people who were both creative enough and financially solvent enough to pay for membership. Power in New York City is often cultural as much as it is capital.
“Does real fabulousness even take place in public anymore? Isn’t it behind closed doors in other people’s homes?” said Jon Reinish, a well-connected political consultant who received an invitation to the club last month and had not yet joined. “I just don’t know that it exists in Manhattan anymore the way it did during the days of Michael’s the Grill Room and Mortimer’s, and it’s very hard to reverse-engineer it any kind of lasting way.”
But for every person sniping, another was joining. Also helping ensure success: Mr. Klein’s unique popularity, according to Kevin Huvane, who, as the co-chairman of Creative Artists Agency, helps guide the careers of many San Vicente regulars, among them Ms. Aniston, Demi Moore and Jennifer Lopez. “People underestimate good will,” he said, before going on to liken Mr. Klein to Joe Allen, the impresario whose restaurants in the theater district established him as a king of Broadway.
The night after the star-studded S.N.L. party, Mr. Werts of the Jeffries was among roughly a thousand people who attended a hard-hat party celebrating the club’s upcoming opening.
Others in the crowd included the power literary agent David Kuhn, the television mogul Darren Starr, the actress Zooey Deschanel and the political pundit Molly Jong-Fast.
A magazine editor who earlier in the week had complained to me about having wasted several thousand dollars to join (largely because of FOMO) was now grousing about the long line for the coat check.
Even Mr. Klein appeared a little embarrassed by the size of the crowd. A few feet away, he talked to Soon-Yi Previn, the wife of Woody Allen.
“It’s a good thing Woody didn’t come,” Mr. Klein said. “It’s too crowded.”
Officially, Mr. Klein was not participating with this piece. Last December, he gave an interview to The New York Times in connection with the opening of a San Vicente outpost in Santa Monica, Calif. After its publication, Jay-Z asked him why on earth he’d cooperated with it. After all, a central promise of the club is privacy for its members. (Some have been suspended for uploading pictures to Instagram.)
And Mr. Klein had to concede that Jay-Z had a point.
Still, he also knew that in a town of journalists, nothing about the weekend was going to be totally off the record. And with opening costs in the $130 million range, he was not going to be able to make that back without some press. (“Oof, that’s a lot of money,” said Mr. Huvane, when told the number.)
So Mr. Klein did not exactly shoo me away as he greeted Risa Heller, a crisis manager whose clients have included Jeff Zucker and Anthony Weiner.
Waiters marched around the space serving crispy shrimp satays and cappuccino-flavored macaroons.
Ms. Jong-Fast and Ms. Deschanel went upstairs to see the movie theater, then checked out a few of the guest suites, where the hardwood floors had an amber hue and the bed linens were airy and white.
“This would be a great place to cheat on your spouse,” said Ms. Jong-Fast, stopping for a minute to admire a pumpkin-colored sofa with a Hudson County vibe. “Although maybe that’s more Casa Cipriani.”
Lifestyle
These men tried to be bros…and failed. : It’s Been a Minute
Are male friendships toxic? They often are on screen.
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What can we all learn from stories of men trying to find friends…and failing?
Men in real life – and in the movies – are trying to figure out how to be friends. There’s been a lot of talk alleging lonely men are the cause of cultural tensions, and Hollywood has caught on (despite a similar number of women saying they are lonely, too!). Several films this year depict how society leads men into fraught, messy friendships. So, what can we all learn from toxic (or good!) friendships between men?
Brittany is joined by NPR arts and culture reporter Neda Ulaby and IndieWire awards editor Marcus Jones to dig into it.
Follow Brittany Luse on Instagram: @bmluse
For handpicked podcast recommendations every week, subscribe to NPR’s Pod Club newsletter at npr.org/podclub.
This episode was produced by Corey Antonio Rose. It was edited by Neena Pathak. Our Supervising Producer is Barton Girdwood. Our Executive Producer is Veralyn Williams. Our VP of Programming is Yolanda Sangweni.
Lifestyle
Why Japan’s instant ramen titan is testing a new kind of noodle in L.A.
Nissin Foods, the Japanese giant that brought the world instant ramen, is testing a new kind of noodle in Los Angeles.
Its sprawling, old factory and corporate office in Gardena is now churning out protein-fortified pastas for Angelenos who want more bang for their bowls.
Nissin invented Cup Noodles, a go-to meal for people across the globe and a favorite among those on a budget. More than 100 billion portions of instant noodles from hundreds of companies are consumed every year.
In the U.S., much of Nissin’s expansion came from Gardena, where it started producing noodle packets in the 1970s. By 1973, the company launched Cup Noodles, an innovation aimed at Americans who liked to drink soup from cups.
The latest American preference Nissin has noticed is a surging demand for protein among mainstream consumers. It is popping up in snack foods, espresso drinks and breakfast cereals. Even Pop-Tarts and Doritos have released products with extra protein.
Nissin launched a new Los Angeles-based noodle company to capitalize on the trend this year. The company, Kanzen Meal, which now has around 10 employees, recently began serving up nutrient-dense meals from the frozen foods aisle. Its products are available in dozens of grocery stores across Southern California.
“There’s an interest in nutrient density and people want more bang for their buck out of the foods that they eat,” Kanzen Meal chief executive Bob Little said. “We think that there’s an opportunity to bring those consumers back to the frozen aisle.”
Kanzen Meal’s shrimp teriyaki, spaghetti Bolognese and other products have up to 24 grams of protein .
Convenience food companies around the world have been struggling with a slowdown in many markets as consumers increasingly avoid highly processed foods. Meanwhile, the spreading use of Ozempic is making it easier for millions of people to control their appetites and be choosier about what they consume.
Amiud this trend, Nissin shares have fallen around 30% over the last 12 months.
Workers pack noodles along the production line at Nissin’s manufacturing plant in Gardena, Calif. in 1972.
(Bruce H. Cox/Los Angeles Times)
Nissin, which opened its facility in Gardena in 1972, recently established a new regional headquarters in Torrance, where Kanzen Meal is based. Many of its attempts to remain relevant start in L.A.
This month Nissin announced its upcoming launch of a “hot water van” that will tour the U.S. and distribute samples of instant noodles. For the holiday season, it has unveiled both turkey and pumpkin pie-flavored Cup Noodles.
With the establishment of Kanzen Meals, Nissin is looking to Los Angeles as the prime testing grounds for its products.
“We’ve got deep ties to the Los Angeles area and we thought that this would be a great market for us to start in,” Little said in an interview. “We recognized early on that Los Angeles is the epicenter of well-being.”
Kanzen Meal products hit shelves in stores such as Gelson’s and Bristol Farms in June. Since then the company has been growing rapidly, Little said. The company announced this month it would expand its distribution to stores on the East Coast in states including New York, Connecticut and North Carolina. It plans to have products in 1,000 stores by the end of the year.
Little attributes the swift growth to a surge in consumer demand for simple access to nutrients, especially in Southern California.
“Kanzen Meal’s frozen noodles are available in dozens of stores in Southern California”
(KANZEN MEAL)
Kanzen will introduce two new frozen products this month, including spicy Dandan noodles and spaghetti carbonara. Each meal contains macronutrients, fats, carbs and fiber and retails for $6.99 to $7.99.
As added protein trends online and in stores, nutritionists are warning consumers to pay attention to all the components in a product. Some with a high dose of protein may also contain large amounts of sugar and sodium, experts said.
“The bigger picture here is that just because something has more protein does not mean it’s healthier for you,” said Yasi Ansari, a Los Angeles-based registered dietitian and nutritionist.
The protein boom actually could lead to American consumers overindulging, Ansari said. The average woman needs around 46 grams of protein to prevent a deficiency, and the average man needs 56 grams, she said.
Protein bars typically contain 20 to 30 grams of protein, and new products such as the Starbucks protein latte can have up to 36 grams.
“Protein is vital to the body’s cells, but we may be missing out on other nutrients that we could be getting from a whole food profile,” Ansari said.
Little said Kanzen Meal’s products offer a healthy balance of ingredients. “Kanzen” means complete in Japanese, he pointed out.
Retail analyst Dominick Miserandino said the demand for protein is creating opportunities for new products, including within the $91.3-billion U.S. frozen food market. But the proliferation of food items advertised as high-protein, ranging from toaster pastries to tortilla chips, could lead consumers astray, Miserandino said.
“It might give a false consumer impression that having these snacks is always a healthy choice,” he said. “Are you going to now have a generation of kids eating snack foods for their daily dose of protein?”
Lifestyle
New this week: Zadie Smith essays, a Cameron Crowe memoir and a ‘Sandwich’ sequel
It’s a fun fact that Zadie Smith and Susan Straight, two boldface names in literary fiction over the past quarter-century, both live in the neighborhoods where they were raised. Smith returned to northwest London after some sojourns abroad, while Straight has remained in Riverside, Calif.; both are now but a stone’s throw from the scenes of their childhood.
Both authors also have new books out this week. Smith’s essay collection and Straight’s novel lead a batch of publishing highlights that also includes a biography, a memoir, a western of sorts, and another return home in Catherine Newman’s sequel to Sandwich.
Thomas Wolfe, eat your heart out: Turns out you can go home again. Just as long as you’re willing to face what waits for you there.
Tom’s Crossing, by Mark Z. Danielewski
Typically known for his typographical gymnastics, Danielewski plays it comparatively straight with this tale of a horse theft gone wrong. But boy, this western-horror hybrid is still a lot. It feels apt to describe Tom’s Crossing, which is nearly as long as War and Peace, the way Henry James once described Tolstoy’s epic: It’s a “loose, baggy monster.” Or less delicately, it’s a fat bear in early autumn — you know, the one preparing for hibernation? Filled with detail and cowboy affect, a bit ungainly in unaccustomed girth, this book, like that bear, is still capable of unspeakable horrors. Underestimate its sanguinary streak at your own peril.
Wreck, by Catherine Newman
Newman’s third novel in as many years is her first to feature a returning cast: Rocky and her family, whom readers met last year in Sandwich. Maureen Corrigan of Fresh Air described that book, the story of a Cape Cod vacation gone tragicomically sideways, as “my idea of the perfect summer novel: shimmering and substantive.” Wreck finds that family two years after that trip, back at home and approaching something that resembles normality — but of course, don’t expect that kind of stability to last.
Sacrament, by Susan Straight
The bard of Riverside revisits some characters from her previous book, 2022’s Mecca. This time, the city just east of Los Angeles is in the throes of an early COVID-19 surge, and her focus is on a group of nurses who are treating its victims, living separate from their families out of fear of contagion. This isn’t just a COVID novel; it’s also a chance to observe the impact of this singular moment on a community that has become synonymous with Straight, who has described Riverside as “my destiny. It’s what I’m here to write about.”
Dead and Alive: Essays, by Zadie Smith
Smith’s last essay collection was her own COVID-19 book — reflections on the strange new world the pandemic had ushered in, written and published during lockdown in 2020. Since then, she has hardly been dormant. The past five years have seen the prolific Brit produce a novel, a stage adaptation of Chaucer, several children’s books and a review of the film Tar that earned her a Pulitzer Prize nod. That piece, “The Instrumentalist,” is included in her new collection, along with more than two dozen other works of nonfiction from the past decade.
Avid Reader Press / Simon & Schuster
The Uncool: A Memoir, by Cameron Crowe
“I do not feel cool,” Crowe told NPR in 2022. Perhaps that’s a surprising sentiment from a man who has led an objectively glamorous life — first as a teenage music journalist, then as the filmmaker behind a handful of Hollywood dreamboats, in movies such as Say Anything… and Jerry Maguire. But don’t call it false modesty; he’s convinced of that frank self-assessment enough to have adapted it for the title of his new memoir. The book promises to elaborate on the real events that inspired Almost Famous, his semiautobiographical cult classic and its recent Broadway adaptation.
A Dream Deferred, by Abby Philip
In a conversation with NPR’s Weekend Edition, the CNN anchor explained the reason for her new biography: “Because a lot of people think of Rev. Jackson today as a civil rights leader, as an activist, they kind of skip completely over this extraordinary chapter” — his career as a politician. The book takes a wide view, including a glimpse of his troubled family life as a child and reflections on his legacy, but it’s especially concerned with Jackson’s pair of presidential campaigns in the 1980s.
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