Culture
As NBA eyes expansion, it sees potential in Mexico City. But is that a realistic option?
MEXICO CITY — Diego, an Uber driver, picked up his client at 10:37 on a Saturday night, behind a crowded basketball arena where an NBA game had just ended.
He traversed dark, tiny alleys on the outskirts of one of the largest, most congested cities in the world. He drove over curbs, slowed to a crawl to avoid damage from crater-sized potholes and, at one point, stopped his car, threw it in reverse and turned a corner backward.
The zigging and zagging ended on a main thoroughfare two miles ahead of the massive traffic jam in front of Arena Ciudad de México. The six-mile ride to the hotel — in the posh Mexico City neighborhood of Polanco, where both the Miami Heat and Washington Wizards were staying for their game — took 46 minutes.
Nick Lagios wasn’t so lucky. Lagios, an American who once worked for the Los Angeles Lakers, is the general manager for one of the two major professional basketball teams based in Mexico City. He hopped in a taxi in the stalled parade of cars after the game. He was also headed to Polanco, where he lives, but it took him three hours to get home.
“Coming and going at this arena, especially if it’s crowded, is an absolute traffic disaster,” Lagios said.
If the NBA eventually puts a team in Mexico City, which commissioner Adam Silver has said is possible, it would be because of the massive potential of the market — including the ability to draw a crowd. And while postgame traffic is far from unusual after an NBA game, 41 home dates of gridlock like this are only one reason to question whether a league expansion to Mexico is viable.
There are plenty of other factors for the league to consider as it weighs potentially expanding to Mexico City. Traffic is definitely a factor, but overcrowding, a complicated geography that could make building a new arena difficult and the socioeconomics of the world’s fifth largest city are other challenges the league will have to consider.
On the same night the Heat and Wizards played in Mexico City, one of the first people Silver bumped into at the arena was Ted Leonsis, owner of the Wizards.
“The first thing he said to me was, we should have a team in Mexico City,” Silver said.
In a wide-ranging interview with The Athletic in Mexico City, some of which was published previously, Silver acknowledged that American cities like Las Vegas and Seattle would likely get a team before Mexico City, and potential expansion south of the U.S. border was probably “many years off.” But he also said expanding to Mexico City would be “more additive because we would be flipping a switch” in a massive, receptive market.
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The NBA held its first exhibition game in Mexico City in 1992, and since, there have been 32 more regular-season or exhibition games in the city. In 2022, the Mexico City Capitanes began playing G League home games in Mexico (the team was started in 2021 and played the first season in the U.S.).
The arena where the Heat and Wizards played, and where the Capitanes have home games, was built for $300 million and opened in 2012. Around that time, the Maloof family was looking to move the Sacramento Kings, and Robert Hernreich, who held a minority stake in the Kings, pushed the family and then-NBA commissioner David Stern to consider Mexico City. Herneich says he even accompanied league officials on a tour of the arena.
“I didn’t fight for it strong enough, and I should have,” Hernreich said. “It has been a great opportunity for 15 years, and for some reason, the NBA (has) not (been) willing to exploit that. I pursued it independently, and Stern would say, ‘Bobby, look elsewhere. We’re not gonna do Mexico City.’”
Under Silver, clearly, that tune has changed.
Vendors sell merchandise ahead of the 2023 NBA Mexico City Game between the Hawks and Magic. (Kirby Lee / USA Today)
Mexico City is the largest city in North America, with a population of 22 million. Mexico has a population of 130 million and, according to the league’s own research, 32 million NBA fans, including 13 million fans ages 14 to 30.
The NBA has major offices in Mexico City and San Paolo, Brazil. It counts more than 121 million fans across Latin America and the Caribbean and considers Mexico one of its top-five markets in the world for League Pass subscriptions.
Arena Ciudad de México is, by any accounting, an NBA-caliber arena. The concourses are spacious, the scoreboards jumbo, the sound system excellent, and the locker rooms large enough. It’s also a major concert venue for the city.
“I think culturally, just watching the changes that we’ve seen, even over the 30 years that we’ve been playing games here … we went from sort of a novelty to a mainstream sport here,” Silver said. “If we were to bring an NBA franchise here, there’s no question it would ignite and accelerate the growth of the game.”
Jahlil Okafor played in the NBA for six seasons, where he earned more than $22 million in salary, and spent one season with the Capitanes in the G League in 2022-23.
“They told us it was the Beverly Hills of Mexico, and living there, it was,” Okafor said.
Okafor said he and his teammates were put up in a nice apartment complex in Polanco, with glass doors and marble floors, not far from the row of swanky hotels, boutiques and open-air restaurants where the NBA congregates each year during its Global Games series in Mexico City. He was enamored with the food and the culture.
But would Mexico City be a good place for the NBA to put a team? “I’m not sure,” Okafor said. “It was difficult for us to commute around Mexico City just because the traffic is really bad.”
Yes, Mexico City has a traffic problem. According to anthropologist Lachlan Summers, who has studied the city’s traffic, residents of the city lose on average about 6.5 days per year stuck on the clogged highways and main streets. A separate study of Los Angeles traffic said commuters there lose about 3.5 days per year in traffic jams.
But the traffic issue, as it relates to the NBA setting up permanent residence in Mexico City, is more complex than too many cars on the road. It starts with the security of the multi-millionaire players who would live in Mexico City for at least six months of the year.
According to Numbeo, a website that tracks crime rates internationally, Mexico City’s crime rate in mid-2024 of 67.7 crimes per 100,000 residents is the 32nd highest in the world. There were two NBA cities — Detroit and Memphis — with higher crime rates, and Milwaukee and New Orleans are 33rd and 34th on this list.
Mexico City is also, by and large, poorer than major American cities. According to a 2022 study by the Mexican government, the average salary for a Mexico City resident fluctuates between $660 and $720 a month.
“When a lot of people think of Mexico, the first thing they think about is safety and things along the border,” said Lagios, who was general manager of the Capitanes for three years before taking a similar job with Diablos Rojos of Mexico’s top pro basketball league. “But I think, as time goes on, I’d hear other teams were scared about coming here, and then they get here and they love it.”
That’s in part because those visiting teams from the G League stay in Polanco, or as Okafor described, the “Beverly Hills of Mexico City.” It’s also where NBA teams always stay when they play in Mexico, and, if an NBA team were to play in Arena Ciudad de México full time, Polanco would be the most likely option for players to live.
Polanco is geographically close to the arena (again, just six miles), but on game nights, it can feel like you’re driving from Dallas to Houston. The arena is surrounded on three sides by a wall, and there aren’t many parking options other than the attached garage, which has, at most, two exits that both empty onto the same street.
Also, the neighborhood in which the arena is located is dilapidated, likely uncomfortable for wealthy basketball players who would be unlikely to solve the logistics problem of travel time by moving closer to the arena — an issue that could extend to the paying customers.
“The people who can (afford to) pay the cost of NBA tickets, they live far from the arena,” said Othon Diaz, chief executive officer for all of Diablos Rojos’ sports teams. “The area (around the arena) is not the best place — like security, the streets are not so nice.
“You can go to a concert every three or four months, but four to six games a month? That’s a problem.”
If proximity and traffic were barriers for the more affluent residents of Mexico City to attend more than a handful of 41 home games, then NBA pricing could serve as a barrier to those who live closer to the arena, Diaz said.
The average price of an NBA ticket is $94, excluding the price of parking, food and merchandise. A two-hour Uber ride in Mexico City could cost a day’s wage for the average Mexico City resident.
“In the United States, they charge, what, $13 a beer? If I charged $13 for beer, they’d shoot me,” Diaz said.
It’s a risky exercise to compare Diablos Rojos or the Capitanes to a potential NBA team in Mexico City, because both of the existing clubs are playing minor-league basketball. Both teams have enjoyed success but, for what it’s worth, neither is profitable yet.
A look at Arena Ciudad de México, home of the NBA G League’s Capitanes. (Kirby Lee / USA Today)
Diablos Rojos, for example, just completed their first season and won the Liga Nacional de Baloncesto Profesional championship, capping off an outrageously fortuitous 2024 for the Harp family’s sports company.
Earlier this year, the Diablos Rojos baseball club not only hosted the New York Yankees for exhibition games in March but went on to win the Mexican League championship.
Diablos Rojos plays their basketball games in a 5,000-seat venue where the 1968 Olympic tournament was held in Mexico City, Gimnasio Olímpico Juan de la Barrera. Alfredo Harp Helú, who owns Diablos Rojos and is also part owner of the San Diego Padres, and his son, Santiago, who is 24 and vice president of the Diablos Rojos board of directors, want to build a new arena. Not only for Diablos Rojos, but perhaps for an NBA or WNBA team they ultimately lure to Mexico City.
The Capitanes practice at the Mexican Olympic Committee’s old facility, which is well below NBA standards — the rims may not be quite 10 feet in the air, and until recently, there were no locker rooms, former members of the organization said. An NBA or WNBA team would need a new practice facility too.
“Mexico City needs a new arena,” Santiago Harp said. “Even with (Arena Ciudad de México), we need another one. I’m really excited to just have a nice arena. We’re trying to look (at) how big it should be. We might be in some other leagues — now we’re in (LNBP), but we will see the future.”
Mexico City is not only crowded, it is also 7,300 feet above sea level. The population size and geography pose serious challenges when trying to build a massive structure like a new arena. When the Harps built their baseball stadium, which opened in 2019 near Mexico City’s international airport, for $167 million, they had to build it on a concrete slab supported by 155-feet tall pillars, because the land is on top of an ancient lake.
“Other parts of the city are built on top of old volcanic ash,” Diaz said. “The money isn’t the big problem — the place is so hard (to build an arena) because in Mexico City, there isn’t enough space. … But you can’t be sure what it would cost because you won’t know (right away) what the ground is like.”
Nuño Pérez Pla is in his first season as team president for the Capitanes, the third man in four years to hold that job. Pérez has fulfilled more roles for the Capitanes than he can remember, having done everything from serving as chief revenue officer to taking pictures during games along the baseline.
Pérez said the franchise is probably two years away from profitability, as corporate sponsorships continue to rise. The Capitanes received two different business awards from the G League last season, in which the club saw attendance rise by 93 percent from its first year in Mexico City.
“It is, 100 percent, everyone’s job at the Capitanes to showcase the potential of Mexico City, to show the Capitanes deserve to have a permanent place in the G League, and that we have the potential to have an NBA team in this country,” Pérez said.
Capitanes games are on ESPN Deportes, as part of the NBA’s contract with Disney. The Capitanes do not have to pay player salaries — the league does that, as it does for all G League players. Nor does the team make money off concessions; that all goes to the Monterrey-based company that owns Arena Ciudad de México. The Capitanes get the revenues from ticket and merchandise sales inside the arena during their games; undiscounted tickets cost between $15 and $50. The Capitanes average 4,300 fans per game this season.
Pérez said the viability of American cities Seattle and Las Vegas as NBA markets is well known but argued the Capitanes have “demonstrated the potential that Mexico City has.” Silver, the NBA commissioner, said the league would also have to engage the National Basketball Players Association on expansion to Mexico City, to ensure players would accept moving there for half the year.
“The NBA is testing Mexico right now, logistics testing, security testing and business testing to see what is the real potential of Mexico,” Pérez said.
The Athletic’s Mike Vorkunov contributed.
(Illustration: Meech Robinson / The Athletic; top photos: Pedro Pardo, Emmanuel Dunand / AFP via Getty Images; Adam Hagy, David Dow, Issac Baldizon, Pablo Lomelin / NBAE via Getty Images)
Culture
Finding Wisdom in a Poem by Wendy Cope
Where do you turn when you need advice? A chatbot? A life coach? A wise and trusted friend?
How about a poet? Poets may not be famous for making the best life choices, but because they subject the mess of human existence to the discipline of language, they can be as helpful as any therapist or mentor.
Good poets know the rules and when to break them, which is something they can teach the rest of us.
To wit:
Giving advice is a peculiar literary undertaking. It flourishes in certain popular genres — graduation speeches, newspaper columns, country and western songs and poems like this one — but what, in these contexts, is it really for?
I’m thinking of situations when you don’t urgently need help but nonetheless enjoy reading answers to questions you may not have thought to ask. What interests you isn’t the content of the advice — you could get all the life hacks you want from A.I. — so much as the voice of the person dispensing it.
Wendy Cope is an English poet, born in 1945, who has been a fixture of her country’s literary scene since the 1980s. More recently, her short, buoyant poem “The Orange” has been widely memed online, bringing her to the attention of new readers beyond Britain.
Cope favors rhyme, meter, brisk jokes and tart aperçus. She addresses romance, friendship and the petty absurdities of modern life with disarming good humor. The last line of “The Orange” is “I love you. I’m glad I exist.” Somehow she makes it the opposite of cringe.
This isn’t the kind of poetry you would describe as “confessional.” And yet …
Question 1/7
Stop, if the car is going “clunk”
Or if the sun has made you blind.
Don’t answer e–mails when you’re drunk.
Tap a word above to fill in the highlighted blank.Want to learn this poem by heart? We’ll help.
Fill in the missing words below. You can always refer to the reading by A.O. Scott and full
text above.Let’s start with the first stanza.
Culture
Can You Match the Places These Authors Lived With Settings in Their Books?
A strong sense of place can deeply influence a story, and in some cases, the setting can even feel like a character itself. This week’s literary geography quiz highlights places where authors were born (or lived) that later became locations in their books. To play, just make your selection in the multiple-choice list and the correct answer will be revealed. At the end of the quiz, you’ll find links to the works if you’d like to do further reading.
Culture
Book Review: ‘America, U.S.A.,’ by Eddie S. Glaude Jr.
AMERICA, U.S.A.: How Race Shadows the Nation’s Anniversaries, by Eddie S. Glaude Jr.
For those of us in the national memory-keeping business, anniversaries hold near-totemic power. Satisfyingly round units of time, ideally bearing fancy, Latin-derived names, serve as the overburdened pegs on which to hang think pieces and museum exhibits, revisionist documentaries and maudlin public ceremonies. The arbitrary nature of such occasions is precisely what gives them their charge, inviting us to set aside complacency and submit to a comprehensive check-in.
In his new book, “America, U.S.A.,” Eddie S. Glaude Jr. presents an intriguing variation on the genre, seeing the country’s 250th birthday as an anniversary of anniversaries: 50 years since the malaise-ridden, schlock-heavy Bicentennial. A century since the subdued Prohibition-era Sesquicentennial. A century and a half since telegraphed reports of George Armstrong Custer’s defeat by the Lakota and Cheyenne at Little Bighorn rudely interrupted the Gilded Age Republic’s 100th birthday party.
If an anniversary offers a snapshot of a moment, the core of Glaude’s book is an old-timey photo album, a collection of notable episodes from earlier national reckonings, long-ago glances in the mirror. An estimable scholar of Black history, politics and religion at Princeton — best known for “Begin Again,” his 2020 meditation on James Baldwin’s relevance for our times — Glaude focuses, as his subtitle puts it, on “how race shadows the nation’s anniversaries.”
Such celebrations, he contends, have never really been the moments for honest self-reflection they are often advertised to be. Instead, the nation usually shatters the mirror, refusing to accept what it prefers not to see. “American anniversaries are often moments to turn a blind eye to the evils of the past and the present,” Glaude writes, “to suppress the fact of America’s divided soul.”
It’s a clever concept, and, needless to say, perfectly timed. Last year, Glaude notes, the Trump administration executed a hostile takeover of the government’s studiously bipartisan 250th anniversary planning. It is now preparing a program that is certain to conceal more than it reveals about the country ostensibly being celebrated.
Glaude, in no mood for celebration, argues that such omissions and evasions also defined commemorations in the past. In 1875, Frederick Douglass predicted “one grand Centennial hosannah of peace and good will to all the white race of this country.” He was right: The nation reached 100 years old at a crucial moment in the post-Civil War fight over racial equality, with white Northerners ready to give up on Southern Reconstruction. The occasion would help the once-warring sections to reunite around a shared commitment to white supremacy. On May 10, 1876, at the opening of the Centennial Exposition in Philadelphia, the police tried to bar Douglass from the grandstand, until a white politician vouched for him.
The 150th anniversary came soon after a resurgent Ku Klux Klan successfully pushed for a restrictive immigration law aimed at keeping America a “Nordic” nation. At the lavishly funded, lightly attended celebrations in Philadelphia, Black veterans of World War I were excluded from marching in the opening parade. A writer with The Associated Negro Press wondered “what was in the breast of those black men who fought to make America safe for Democracy and on Monday stood on the sidelines, forgotten, as the Nordic strode by in all his vain pride.”
By 1976, when the nation marked its Bicentennial, the violence of the ’60s had destroyed any semblance of consensus. Vietnam and Watergate had eroded trust in the government. The commission initially tasked with organizing the anniversary was disbanded amid reports of corruption. Corporations filled the vacuum, Glaude explains, with “star-spangled whoopee cushions; patriotic toilet seats; Liberty hamburgers; red, white and blue beer cans.” The author, around 8 years old at the time, dimly remembers donning a pair of tricolor trousers.
A half-century later, Glaude is refreshingly honest about the depths of his despair. “I do not love America, and never have, especially now,” he writes in one of the more startling opening sentences I’ve read in some time. He dismisses this year’s Semiquincentennial as reaching back “to a storybook America that requires either the banishment of Black people from view or the reduction of our role in the country’s history, so as to affirm America’s ongoing quest to be a more perfect union.”
Undoubtedly true. But Trump doesn’t own the country, at least not yet, nor the 250th anniversary of one of the most radically liberatory and confusingly contradictory events in world history — an inspiration, as Glaude shows, even to critical observers of the American experiment, like Douglass. Far from the revanchist MAGA-palooza in Washington, I suspect this summer’s unasked-for invitation to national soul-searching may surprise us yet.
Despite his despair, Glaude concludes that “the past still offers resources for us to freedom-dream.” So, too, does this book.
AMERICA, U.S.A.: How Race Shadows the Nation’s Anniversaries | By Eddie S. Glaude Jr. | Crown | 270 pp. | $31
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