Culture
As NBA eyes expansion, it sees potential in Mexico City. But is that a realistic option?
MEXICO CITY — Diego, an Uber driver, picked up his client at 10:37 on a Saturday night, behind a crowded basketball arena where an NBA game had just ended.
He traversed dark, tiny alleys on the outskirts of one of the largest, most congested cities in the world. He drove over curbs, slowed to a crawl to avoid damage from crater-sized potholes and, at one point, stopped his car, threw it in reverse and turned a corner backward.
The zigging and zagging ended on a main thoroughfare two miles ahead of the massive traffic jam in front of Arena Ciudad de México. The six-mile ride to the hotel — in the posh Mexico City neighborhood of Polanco, where both the Miami Heat and Washington Wizards were staying for their game — took 46 minutes.
Nick Lagios wasn’t so lucky. Lagios, an American who once worked for the Los Angeles Lakers, is the general manager for one of the two major professional basketball teams based in Mexico City. He hopped in a taxi in the stalled parade of cars after the game. He was also headed to Polanco, where he lives, but it took him three hours to get home.
“Coming and going at this arena, especially if it’s crowded, is an absolute traffic disaster,” Lagios said.
If the NBA eventually puts a team in Mexico City, which commissioner Adam Silver has said is possible, it would be because of the massive potential of the market — including the ability to draw a crowd. And while postgame traffic is far from unusual after an NBA game, 41 home dates of gridlock like this are only one reason to question whether a league expansion to Mexico is viable.
There are plenty of other factors for the league to consider as it weighs potentially expanding to Mexico City. Traffic is definitely a factor, but overcrowding, a complicated geography that could make building a new arena difficult and the socioeconomics of the world’s fifth largest city are other challenges the league will have to consider.
On the same night the Heat and Wizards played in Mexico City, one of the first people Silver bumped into at the arena was Ted Leonsis, owner of the Wizards.
“The first thing he said to me was, we should have a team in Mexico City,” Silver said.
In a wide-ranging interview with The Athletic in Mexico City, some of which was published previously, Silver acknowledged that American cities like Las Vegas and Seattle would likely get a team before Mexico City, and potential expansion south of the U.S. border was probably “many years off.” But he also said expanding to Mexico City would be “more additive because we would be flipping a switch” in a massive, receptive market.
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The NBA held its first exhibition game in Mexico City in 1992, and since, there have been 32 more regular-season or exhibition games in the city. In 2022, the Mexico City Capitanes began playing G League home games in Mexico (the team was started in 2021 and played the first season in the U.S.).
The arena where the Heat and Wizards played, and where the Capitanes have home games, was built for $300 million and opened in 2012. Around that time, the Maloof family was looking to move the Sacramento Kings, and Robert Hernreich, who held a minority stake in the Kings, pushed the family and then-NBA commissioner David Stern to consider Mexico City. Herneich says he even accompanied league officials on a tour of the arena.
“I didn’t fight for it strong enough, and I should have,” Hernreich said. “It has been a great opportunity for 15 years, and for some reason, the NBA (has) not (been) willing to exploit that. I pursued it independently, and Stern would say, ‘Bobby, look elsewhere. We’re not gonna do Mexico City.’”
Under Silver, clearly, that tune has changed.
Vendors sell merchandise ahead of the 2023 NBA Mexico City Game between the Hawks and Magic. (Kirby Lee / USA Today)
Mexico City is the largest city in North America, with a population of 22 million. Mexico has a population of 130 million and, according to the league’s own research, 32 million NBA fans, including 13 million fans ages 14 to 30.
The NBA has major offices in Mexico City and San Paolo, Brazil. It counts more than 121 million fans across Latin America and the Caribbean and considers Mexico one of its top-five markets in the world for League Pass subscriptions.
Arena Ciudad de México is, by any accounting, an NBA-caliber arena. The concourses are spacious, the scoreboards jumbo, the sound system excellent, and the locker rooms large enough. It’s also a major concert venue for the city.
“I think culturally, just watching the changes that we’ve seen, even over the 30 years that we’ve been playing games here … we went from sort of a novelty to a mainstream sport here,” Silver said. “If we were to bring an NBA franchise here, there’s no question it would ignite and accelerate the growth of the game.”
Jahlil Okafor played in the NBA for six seasons, where he earned more than $22 million in salary, and spent one season with the Capitanes in the G League in 2022-23.
“They told us it was the Beverly Hills of Mexico, and living there, it was,” Okafor said.
Okafor said he and his teammates were put up in a nice apartment complex in Polanco, with glass doors and marble floors, not far from the row of swanky hotels, boutiques and open-air restaurants where the NBA congregates each year during its Global Games series in Mexico City. He was enamored with the food and the culture.
But would Mexico City be a good place for the NBA to put a team? “I’m not sure,” Okafor said. “It was difficult for us to commute around Mexico City just because the traffic is really bad.”
Yes, Mexico City has a traffic problem. According to anthropologist Lachlan Summers, who has studied the city’s traffic, residents of the city lose on average about 6.5 days per year stuck on the clogged highways and main streets. A separate study of Los Angeles traffic said commuters there lose about 3.5 days per year in traffic jams.
But the traffic issue, as it relates to the NBA setting up permanent residence in Mexico City, is more complex than too many cars on the road. It starts with the security of the multi-millionaire players who would live in Mexico City for at least six months of the year.
According to Numbeo, a website that tracks crime rates internationally, Mexico City’s crime rate in mid-2024 of 67.7 crimes per 100,000 residents is the 32nd highest in the world. There were two NBA cities — Detroit and Memphis — with higher crime rates, and Milwaukee and New Orleans are 33rd and 34th on this list.
Mexico City is also, by and large, poorer than major American cities. According to a 2022 study by the Mexican government, the average salary for a Mexico City resident fluctuates between $660 and $720 a month.
“When a lot of people think of Mexico, the first thing they think about is safety and things along the border,” said Lagios, who was general manager of the Capitanes for three years before taking a similar job with Diablos Rojos of Mexico’s top pro basketball league. “But I think, as time goes on, I’d hear other teams were scared about coming here, and then they get here and they love it.”
That’s in part because those visiting teams from the G League stay in Polanco, or as Okafor described, the “Beverly Hills of Mexico City.” It’s also where NBA teams always stay when they play in Mexico, and, if an NBA team were to play in Arena Ciudad de México full time, Polanco would be the most likely option for players to live.
Polanco is geographically close to the arena (again, just six miles), but on game nights, it can feel like you’re driving from Dallas to Houston. The arena is surrounded on three sides by a wall, and there aren’t many parking options other than the attached garage, which has, at most, two exits that both empty onto the same street.
Also, the neighborhood in which the arena is located is dilapidated, likely uncomfortable for wealthy basketball players who would be unlikely to solve the logistics problem of travel time by moving closer to the arena — an issue that could extend to the paying customers.
“The people who can (afford to) pay the cost of NBA tickets, they live far from the arena,” said Othon Diaz, chief executive officer for all of Diablos Rojos’ sports teams. “The area (around the arena) is not the best place — like security, the streets are not so nice.
“You can go to a concert every three or four months, but four to six games a month? That’s a problem.”
If proximity and traffic were barriers for the more affluent residents of Mexico City to attend more than a handful of 41 home games, then NBA pricing could serve as a barrier to those who live closer to the arena, Diaz said.
The average price of an NBA ticket is $94, excluding the price of parking, food and merchandise. A two-hour Uber ride in Mexico City could cost a day’s wage for the average Mexico City resident.
“In the United States, they charge, what, $13 a beer? If I charged $13 for beer, they’d shoot me,” Diaz said.
It’s a risky exercise to compare Diablos Rojos or the Capitanes to a potential NBA team in Mexico City, because both of the existing clubs are playing minor-league basketball. Both teams have enjoyed success but, for what it’s worth, neither is profitable yet.
A look at Arena Ciudad de México, home of the NBA G League’s Capitanes. (Kirby Lee / USA Today)
Diablos Rojos, for example, just completed their first season and won the Liga Nacional de Baloncesto Profesional championship, capping off an outrageously fortuitous 2024 for the Harp family’s sports company.
Earlier this year, the Diablos Rojos baseball club not only hosted the New York Yankees for exhibition games in March but went on to win the Mexican League championship.
Diablos Rojos plays their basketball games in a 5,000-seat venue where the 1968 Olympic tournament was held in Mexico City, Gimnasio Olímpico Juan de la Barrera. Alfredo Harp Helú, who owns Diablos Rojos and is also part owner of the San Diego Padres, and his son, Santiago, who is 24 and vice president of the Diablos Rojos board of directors, want to build a new arena. Not only for Diablos Rojos, but perhaps for an NBA or WNBA team they ultimately lure to Mexico City.
The Capitanes practice at the Mexican Olympic Committee’s old facility, which is well below NBA standards — the rims may not be quite 10 feet in the air, and until recently, there were no locker rooms, former members of the organization said. An NBA or WNBA team would need a new practice facility too.
“Mexico City needs a new arena,” Santiago Harp said. “Even with (Arena Ciudad de México), we need another one. I’m really excited to just have a nice arena. We’re trying to look (at) how big it should be. We might be in some other leagues — now we’re in (LNBP), but we will see the future.”
Mexico City is not only crowded, it is also 7,300 feet above sea level. The population size and geography pose serious challenges when trying to build a massive structure like a new arena. When the Harps built their baseball stadium, which opened in 2019 near Mexico City’s international airport, for $167 million, they had to build it on a concrete slab supported by 155-feet tall pillars, because the land is on top of an ancient lake.
“Other parts of the city are built on top of old volcanic ash,” Diaz said. “The money isn’t the big problem — the place is so hard (to build an arena) because in Mexico City, there isn’t enough space. … But you can’t be sure what it would cost because you won’t know (right away) what the ground is like.”
Nuño Pérez Pla is in his first season as team president for the Capitanes, the third man in four years to hold that job. Pérez has fulfilled more roles for the Capitanes than he can remember, having done everything from serving as chief revenue officer to taking pictures during games along the baseline.
Pérez said the franchise is probably two years away from profitability, as corporate sponsorships continue to rise. The Capitanes received two different business awards from the G League last season, in which the club saw attendance rise by 93 percent from its first year in Mexico City.
“It is, 100 percent, everyone’s job at the Capitanes to showcase the potential of Mexico City, to show the Capitanes deserve to have a permanent place in the G League, and that we have the potential to have an NBA team in this country,” Pérez said.
Capitanes games are on ESPN Deportes, as part of the NBA’s contract with Disney. The Capitanes do not have to pay player salaries — the league does that, as it does for all G League players. Nor does the team make money off concessions; that all goes to the Monterrey-based company that owns Arena Ciudad de México. The Capitanes get the revenues from ticket and merchandise sales inside the arena during their games; undiscounted tickets cost between $15 and $50. The Capitanes average 4,300 fans per game this season.
Pérez said the viability of American cities Seattle and Las Vegas as NBA markets is well known but argued the Capitanes have “demonstrated the potential that Mexico City has.” Silver, the NBA commissioner, said the league would also have to engage the National Basketball Players Association on expansion to Mexico City, to ensure players would accept moving there for half the year.
“The NBA is testing Mexico right now, logistics testing, security testing and business testing to see what is the real potential of Mexico,” Pérez said.
The Athletic’s Mike Vorkunov contributed.
(Illustration: Meech Robinson / The Athletic; top photos: Pedro Pardo, Emmanuel Dunand / AFP via Getty Images; Adam Hagy, David Dow, Issac Baldizon, Pablo Lomelin / NBAE via Getty Images)
Culture
6 Poems You Should Know by Heart
Literature
‘Prayer’ (1985) by Galway Kinnell
Whatever happens. Whatever
what is is is what
I want. Only that. But that.
“I typically say Kinnell’s words at the start of my day, as I’m pedaling a traffic-laden path to my office,” says Major Jackson, 57, the author of six books of poetry, including “Razzle Dazzle” (2023). “The poem encourages a calm acceptance of the day’s events but also wants us to embrace the misapprehension and oblivion of life, to avoid probing too deeply for answers to inscrutable questions. I admire what Kinnell does with only 14 words; the repetition of ‘what,’ ‘that’ and ‘is’ would seem to limit the poem’s sentiment but, paradoxically, the poem opens widely to contain all manner of human experience. The three ‘is’es in the middle line give it a symmetry that makes its message feel part of a natural order, and even more convincing. Thanks to the skillful punctuation, pauses and staccato rhythm, a tonal quality of interior reflection emerges. Much like a haiku, it continues after its last words, lingering like the last note played on a piano that slowly fades.”
“Just as I was entering young adulthood, probably slow to claim romantic feelings, a girlfriend copied out a poem by Pablo Neruda and slipped it into an envelope with red lipstick kisses all over it. In turn, I recited this poem. It took me the remainder of that winter to memorize its lines,” says Jackson. “The poem captures the pitch of longing that defines love at its most intense. The speaker in Shakespeare’s most famous sonnet believes the poem creates the beloved, ‘So long as men can breathe or eyes can see, / So long lives this, and this gives life to thee.’ (Sonnet 18). In Rilke’s expressive declarations of yearning, the beloved remains elusive. Wherever the speaker looks or travels, she marks his world by her absence. I find this deeply moving.”
“Clifton faced many obstacles, including cancer, a kidney transplant and the loss of her husband and two of her children. Through it all, she crafted a long career as a pre-eminent American poet,” says Jackson. “Her poem ‘won’t you celebrate with me’ is a war cry, an invitation to share in her victories against life’s persistent challenges. The poem is meaningful to all who have had to stare down death in a hospital or had to bereave the passing of close relations. But, even for those who have yet to mourn life’s vicissitudes, the poem is instructive in cultivating resilience and a persevering attitude. I keep coming back to the image of the speaker’s hands and the spirit of steadying oneself in the face of unspeakable storms. She asks in a perfectly attuned gorgeously metrical line, ‘what did i see to be except myself?’”
‘Sonnet 94’ (1609) by William Shakespeare
They that have power to hurt and will do none,
That do not do the thing they most do show,
Who, moving others, are themselves as stone,
Unmovèd, cold, and to temptation slow,
They rightly do inherit heaven’s graces
And husband nature’s riches from expense;
They are the lords and owners of their faces,
Others but stewards of their excellence.
The summer’s flower is to the summer sweet,
Though to itself it only live and die;
But if that flower with base infection meet,
The basest weed outbraves his dignity.
For sweetest things turn sourest by their deeds;
Lilies that fester smell far worse than weeds.
“It’s one of the moments of Western consciousness,” says Frederick Seidel, 90, the author of more than a dozen collections of poetry, including “So What” (2024). “Shakespeare knows and says what he knows.”
“It trombones magnificent, unbearable sorrow,” says Seidel.
“It’s smartass and bitter and bright,” says Seidel.
These interviews have been edited and condensed.
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Culture
Classic and Contemporary Literature From France, Japan, India, the U.K. and Brazil
Literature
FRANCE
According to the writer Leïla Slimani, 44, the author of ‘The Country of Others’ (2020).
Classic
‘Essais de Montaigne’ (‘Essays of Montaigne,’ 1580)
“France is a country of nuance with a love of conversation and freedom and an aversion to fanaticism. It’s also a country built on reflexive subjectivity. Montaigne reveals all that, writing, ‘I am myself the matter of my book.’”
Contemporary
‘La Carte et le Territoire’ (‘The Map and the Territory,’ 2010) by Michel Houellebecq
“Houellebecq describes France as a museum, where landscape turns into décor and where rural areas are emptying out. He shows the gap between the Parisian elite and the rest of the population, which he paints as aging and disoriented by modernity. It’s a melancholic and yet ironic novel about a disenchanted nation.”
JAPAN
According to the writer Yoko Ogawa, 64, the author of ‘The Memory Police’ (1994).
Classic
‘Man’yoshu’ (late eighth century)
“‘Man’yoshu,’ the oldest extant collection of Japanese poetry, reflects a diversity of voices — from emperors to commoners. They bow their heads to the majesty of nature, weep at the loss of loved ones and find pathos in death. The pages pulse with the vitality of successive generations.”
Contemporary
‘Tenohira no Shosetsu’ (‘Palm-of-the-Hand Stories,’ 1923-72) by Yasunari Kawabata
“The essence of Japanese literature might lie in brevity: waka [a classical 31-syllable poetry form], haiku and short stories. There’s a tradition of cherishing words that seem to well up from the depths of the heart, imbued with warmth. Kawabata, too, exudes more charm in his short stories — especially these very short ‘palm-of-the-hand’ stories — than in his full-length novels. Good and evil, beauty and ugliness, love and hate — everything is contained in these modest worlds.”
INDIA
According to Aatish Taseer, 45, a T contributing writer and the author of ‘Stranger to History: A Son’s Journey Through Islamic Lands’ (2009).
Classic
‘The Kumarasambhava’ (‘The Birth of Kumara,’ circa fifth century) by Kalidasa
“This is an epic poem by the greatest of the classical Sanskrit poets and dramatists. The gods are in a pickle. They’re being tormented by a monster, but Shiva, their natural protector, is deep in meditation and cannot be disturbed. Kama, the god of love, armed with his flower bow, is sent down from the heavens to waken Shiva. Never a wise idea! The great god, in his fury, opens his third eye and incinerates Kama. But then, paradoxically, the death of the god of love engenders one of the greatest love stories ever told. In the final canto, Shiva and his wife, the goddess Parvati, have the most electrifying sex for days on end — and, 15 centuries on, in our now censorious time, it still leaves one agog at the sensual wonder that was India.”
Contemporary
‘The Complex’ (2026) by Karan Mahajan
“This state-of-the-nation novel, which was published just last month, captures the squalor and malice of Indian family life. Delhi is both my and Mahajan’s hometown and, in this sprawling homage to India’s capital, we see it on the eve of the economic liberalization of the 1990s, as the old socialist city gives way to a megalopolis of ambition, greed and political cynicism.”
THE UNITED KINGDOM
According to the writer Tessa Hadley, 70, the author of ‘The London Train’ (2011).
Classic
‘Jane Eyre’ (1847) by Charlotte Brontë
“Written almost 200 years ago, it remains an insight into our collective soul — or at least its female part. Somewhere at the heart of us there’s a small girl in a wintry room, curled up in the window seat with a book, watching the lashing rain on the window glass: ‘There was no possibility of taking a walk that day. …’ Jane’s solemnity, her outraged sense of justice, her trials to come, the wild weather outside, her longing for something better, for love in her future: All this speaks, perhaps problematically, to something buried in the foundations of our idea of ourselves.”
Contemporary
‘All That Man Is’ (2016) by David Szalay
“Though he isn’t quite completely British (he’s part Canadian, part Hungarian), Szalay is brilliant at catching certain aspects of British men — aspects that haven’t been written about for a while, now updated for a new era. Funny, exquisitely observed and terrifying, this novel reminds us, too, how absolutely our fate and our identity as a nation belong with the rest of Europe.”
BRAZIL
According to the writer and critic Noemi Jaffe, 64, the author of ‘What Are the Blind Men Dreaming?’ (2016).
Classic
‘Memórias Póstumas de Brás Cubas’ (‘The Posthumous Memoirs of Brás Cubas,’ 1881) by Machado de Assis
“Not only is it experimental in style — very short chapters mixed with long ones; different points of view; narrated by a corpse; metalinguistic — but it also introduces an extremely ironic view of the rising bourgeoisie in Rio de Janeiro at the time, revealing the hypocrisy of slave owners, the falsehood of love affairs and the only true reason for all social relationships: convenience and personal interest. After almost 150 years, it’s still modern, both formally and, unfortunately, also in content.”
Contemporary
‘Onde Pastam os Minotauros’ (‘Where Minotaurs Graze,’ 2023) by Joca Reiners Terron
“The two main characters — Cão and Crente — along with some of their colleagues, plan to escape and set fire to the slaughterhouse where they work under exploitative conditions. The men develop sympathy for the animals they kill, and one of them becomes a sort of philosopher, revealing the sheer nonsense of existence and the injustices of society in the deepest parts of Brazil.”
These interviews have been edited and condensed.
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Culture
6 Myths That Endure
Literature
The Myth of Meeting Oneself
“This is evident in Virgil’s ‘Aeneid’ (circa 30-19 B.C.) when Aeneas witnesses his own heroic actions depicted in murals of the Trojan War in Juno’s temple, and again in Miguel de Cervantes’s ‘Don Quixote’ (1605-15) when Quixote enters a printer’s shop and finds a book that has been published with fake details about his quest even as he’s living it,” says Ben Okri, 67, the author of “The Famished Road” (1991) and “Madame Sosostris and the Festival for the Brokenhearted” (2025). “In both stories, individuals throw themselves into the world and think they encounter objects, personae, obstacles and antagonists, but what they actually encounter is themselves. In our time, where our actions meet us in the echo chamber of social media, the process is magnified and swifter. Now a deed doesn’t even have to take place for it to enter the realm of reality.”
The Myth of Utopia
“I’ve always had trouble with the idea of utopia, feeling it derives its energy more from what it wishes to dismantle than what it wishes to enact,” says the T writer at large Aatish Taseer, 45, the author of “Stranger to History: A Son’s Journey Through Islamic Lands” (2009). “Ram Rajya, or the mythical rule of the hero Ram in the Hindu epic ‘Ramayana’ (seventh century B.C.-third century A.D.), like all visions of perfection, contains a built-in violence.”
The Myth of Invisibility
“Invisibility bears power and powerlessness at the same time,” says Okri. “In ancient cultures, it was a gift of the gods. Jesus, for example, walks unrecognized among his disciples, and in Greek myths, Scandinavian legends and ancient African tales, heroes are gifted invisibility in the form of cloaks, sandals or spells. Modern works like the two ‘Invisible Man’ novels, by H.G. Wells (1897) and Ralph Ellison (1952), and the ‘Harry Potter’ novels (1997-2007) by J.K. Rowling reach back to those ideas. But today, people talk about visibility as the highest form of social agency, while invisibility can render a whole class, race, caste or gender unseen.”
The Myth of Steadiness vs. Speed
“‘The Tortoise and the Hare,’ one of Aesop’s fables (sixth century B.C.), doesn’t necessarily strike a younger person as promising — possibly it has a whiff of morality in it,” says Yiyun Li, 53, the author of “A Thousand Years of Good Prayers” (2005) and “Dear Friend, From My Life I Write to You in Your Life” (2017). “But the longer I live and work, the more I understand that it’s the tortoiseness in a person that carries one along, not the swiftness of the mind and body of the hare.”
The Myth of Magic
“Ancient magical tales like Homer’s ‘Odyssey’ (late eighth to early seventh century B.C.) were allegories of transformation, of secret teachings,” says Okri, “whereas modern forms of magic are narrative devices and tropes of storytelling that continue the child’s wonder of life. I think of F. Scott Fitzgerald’s ‘The Great Gatsby’ (1925), Gabriel García Márquez’s ‘One Hundred Years of Solitude’ (1967) and, again, the ‘Harry Potter’ books. The intuition of magic persists even in these atheistic and science-infested times, where nothing is to be believed if it can’t be subjected to analysis. This is perhaps because the ultimate magic confronts us every day in the mystery of consciousness. That we can see anything is magical; that we experience love is magical; and perhaps the most magical thing of all is the imagination’s unending power to alter the contents and coordinates of reality. It hides tenaciously in the act of reading, which is the most generative act of magic.”
The Myth of the Immortal Soul
“ ‘The soul is birthless and eternal, imperishable and timeless and is not destroyed when the body is destroyed,’ says Krishna in the ‘Bhagavad Gita’ (second century-first century B.C.). This belief in the immortality of the soul — what used to be called Pythagoreanism in ancient Greece — is still the most pervasive myth in India,” says Taseer, “and has more influence over behavior and how one lives one’s life than any other.”
These interviews have been edited and condensed.
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