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Travel: Minnesota offers glimpse of Bob Dylan’s origin, plus wild and wonderful North Shore

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Travel: Minnesota offers glimpse of Bob Dylan’s origin, plus wild and wonderful North Shore


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DULUTH, Minn. — About a thousand people gather at Duluth Ship Canal in the early evening to watch a cargo ship pass beneath the iconic Aerial Lift Bridge.

The ship’s crew waves as it passes. The crowd waves back. Once the bridge lowers, people applaud and then wander off. “It’s a Duluth thing to do,” a woman tells us. “People like to mingle and enjoy the pleasant waterfront.”

Ships, trains, hawks and native son Bob Dylan are among the many causes for celebration in this city on Lake Superior.

“There’s a lot of mythology about Bob Dylan and his time in Minnesota,” says music historian Ed Newman as he drives along Bob Dylan Way, a part of Superior Street.

Newman likes to promote Duluth’s connection to Dylan, who was born here in 1941 and lived his first six years in a top-floor duplex at 519 North Third Avenue. The clapboard house sits on a hill above downtown.

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In “Something There Is About You,” Dylan sang, “Though I’d shaken the wonder and the phantoms of my youth/Rainy days on the Great Lakes, walkin’ the hills of old Duluth…”

Newman believes the bond between Dylan and Duluth is strong. U.S. Highway 61, a main thoroughfare through Duluth, inspired Dylan’s 1965 album “Highway 61 Revisited.” Newman stops at the Duluth Armory where Dylan attended a Buddy Holly concert in 1959, a pivotal performance in the singer’s life.

Dylan’s music reflects the grittiness and toil of Minnesota’s mining region. In Hibbing, his second childhood home, he lived among miners and others of the working class. “His songs are a lot about the haves and the have nots from here,” Newman says.

Alluding to Dylan’s studio album, “Together Through Life,” Newman says that for many people Dylan’s lyrics are “part of their soundtrack in life. No matter what happens, there’s a Dylan line that sums it up.”

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A week-long Duluth Dylan Fest around his May 24 birthday attracts fans from all over the world. A local radio station hosts an hour-long Dylan program every Saturday night. Numerous concerts and other events have happened here through the years, several that included the Nobel prize-winning singer and songwriter.

Duluth’s top attractions

Love for the Lake Superior waterfront is seen throughout the city. Locals and visitors go to the Canal Park District for dining, entertainment and shopping. They snap photos of the North Pier and South Pier Lighthouses.

A few steps from the Aerial Lift Bridge, the Lake Superior Maritime Visitor Center showcases the legacy of shipping and fishing on the lake. Re-created steamship passenger cabins provide visitors a glimpse into cruise travel of the early 1900s. Famous shipwrecks like the loss of the SS Edmund Fitzgerald are explained in other displays.

From Canal Park, people stroll and bike on the Duluth Lakewalk to Leif Erikson Park. The rose garden is a bouquet of color throughout the summer. Other parks, beaches and entertainment areas punctuate the route. For a hilltop view of the city, they follow the Skyline Parkway to Enger Park. The 80-foot-tall Enger Tower grants magnificent panoramas of Duluth Harbor, the St. Louis River and Lake Superior. It is near the Lincoln Park Craft District, a former industrial site, now home to Bent Paddle Brewing Co., art galleries and restaurants.

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The Lake Superior Railroad Museum, once voted America’s best transportation museum in a USA Today poll, has some rare engines housed in the restored Duluth Union Depot. The North Shore Scenic Railroad leaves daily from the depot for tours along the shoreline.

History is on display at Glensheen Mansion. The 39-room residence was built for mining executive and lawyer Chester Congdon in 1909. Situated on a 12-acre property along Lake Superior, the estate draws more than 100,000 visitors annually.

At Great Lakes Aquarium, a two-story, 85,000-gallon tank contains creatures at home in Lake Superior. Birding enthusiasts gather at Hawk Ridge Bird Observatory, a viewing area just off the Skyline Parkway. In the fall, an average of 75,000 raptors are spotted during the annual count.

Driving along Lake Superior’s North Shore

Duluth is the gateway to sightseeing along the North Shore Scenic Drive (U.S. Highway 61). The dense forests of the Sawtooth Mountains offer hiking trails, campgrounds and attractions such as Lutsen Mountains, a premier ski resort. North Shore Winery hosts tours and tastings. Cove Point Lodge in Beaver Bay, Bluefin Bay in Tofte and Naniboujou Lodge in Grand Marais are popular vacation destinations.

We hike into the gorge at Gooseberry Falls State Park in Two Harbors. The Gooseberry River weaves through aspen, cedar, spruce and pine forests as it plunges into Lake Superior in a series of falls and cascades.

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Nearby, at Split Rock Lighthouse, we experience gorgeous views of Lake Superior. Construction on the brick beacon on this rocky promontory was completed in 1910. The historic site includes three restored keepers’ cottages, an oil house, fog signal building and the original tower.

Grand time in Grand Marais

Grand Marais exudes the carefree spirit of an artist colony. People lounge in chairs at Harbor Park to watch for the rust-red sails of the 50-foot schooner Hjordis.

The business district offers all the essentials: art galleries, bookstore, playhouse, history museum, cafes, breweries, clothing boutiques and souvenir shops. A sign at World’s Best Donuts touts its five-generation tradition of sweet treats. Sivertson Gallery sells paintings, prints, photography and sculpture by regional artists. A favorite gathering spot is Artist’s Point, where people scramble across rocks to a man-made breakwater ending at the Grand Marais Lighthouse.

This city of 1,315 people was established by French Canadians. They came after Ojibwe Indians who had hunted and trapped in the Great Marsh for thousands of years. To immerse ourselves in this ancient heritage, we stay at Skyport Lodge on Devil Track Lake, the site of an ancestral Indian encampment.

Into the wilderness

Grand Marais is the southern terminus of the Gunflint Trail Scenic Byway, a 57-mile motor route stretching north to Saganaga Lake. It crosses through Superior National Forest and Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness.

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It is no surprise to notice that almost every other car carries a canoe on its roof. The crystal-clear lakes connect by portages, rivers and streams.

For outdoor lovers, this is heaven. Fishing is excellent, particularly for walleye, northern pike, bass, crappies, perch and trout. At Loon Lake, a fisherman tells us, “I’ve traveled all over the U.S. and Canada, and there’s no place I’d rather be than right here.”

Side roads off the Gunflint Trail lead to dozens of fish camps, resorts, campgrounds, canoe outfitters and trailheads. Many of the resorts, such as Gunflint Lodge, established in 1925, are family-owned and -operated.

Housed in a stone lodge at Saganaga Lake, the Chik-Wauk Museum provides the cultural history of this region. A restored log cabin displays common furnishings, including woven blankets, water basins and bed frames handcrafted from diamond willow trees. A re-created trapper shack holds steel traps and tools used to skin pelts.

Minnesota’s tallest waterfall

We return to the North Shore Scenic Drive along Lake Superior and reach Grand Portage. Grand Portage Bay was a fur trading depot for Ojibwe trappers and traders and French and British merchants in the 18th and 19th centuries. The Native Americans called it the “Great Carrying Place,” a name reflective of the labor required to carry goods from inland waterways to Lake Superior.

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French Canadians, known as voyageurs, hauled furs in canoes from Canada’s immense forests. As they neared Lake Superior, rapids hindered the voyageurs’ journey. The men hauled canoes and cargo over portages, or trails, to bypass unnavigable waterways. A 12-man master canoe held three tons of cargo.

In exchange for the furs, they received manufactured goods, such as cloth, woolen blankets, copper and tools. Then, they reversed the route.

This history is described at Grand Portage National Monument Heritage Center. Across the street from the museum, a reconstructed village and trading post inside a palisade illustrate the life of fur traders in the late 1790s.

Visitors can retrace the footsteps of voyageurs at Grand Portage State Park. A hiking trail follows the historic path to a series of violent rapids on the Pigeon River, the boundary for the United States and Canada. The 120-foot High Falls is the state’s tallest waterfall. At the visitor center, interpretive displays provide an overview of the culture and traditions of the Grand Portage Ojibwe people.

The state park is located on the tribal land of the Grand Portage Band of Lake Superior Chippewa, commonly known as the Grand Portage Ojibwe or Anishinaabe (the original people). The tribe owns and operates the Grand Portage Lodge and Casino, as well as the Grand Portage Marina and Hat Point Marina. Ferries depart from Hat Point Marina to reach Isle Royale National Park, located 20 miles from the mainland.

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Linda Lange and Steve Ahillen are travel writers living in Knoxville, Tenn.



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5 tornadoes confirmed in Friday’s outbreak in southeastern Minnesota

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5 tornadoes confirmed in Friday’s outbreak in southeastern Minnesota


The National Weather Service confirmed that at least five tornadoes touched down in southeastern Minnesota on Friday, including four that hit Olmsted County. At least another three twisters were confirmed in southwestern Wisconsin.

The NWS was still analyzing data and other information to determine if more tornadoes occurred in the area.

The storms started Friday afternoon, with the first tornado touching down north of Sargeant in Mower County around 1:45 p.m. The short-lived EF0, with top wind speeds of 80 mph, traveled about 3 miles northeast into rural Dodge County near the unincorporated town of Oslo. It lasted for about five minutes in total, the weather service says, and caused minor damage to a grain silo before dissipating.

A new tornado formed a few minutes later, less than a mile away south of Oslo. The storm was also considered an EF0, with wind speeds around 80 mph. Lasting less than 10 minutes, it traveled 4 miles into Olmsted County, causing light damage to farm outbuildings and trees.

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The line of storms seemed to pick up intensity as it entered Olmsted County.

Around 2:17 p.m., the EF2 tornado that would later hit Marion Township first touched down just northeast of Stewartville. The weather service estimates that the twister had wind speeds of about 130 mph and traveled nearly 10 miles northeast, before dissipating around 2:31 p.m. Multiple homes were severely damaged with roof removal and partially collapsed exterior walls.

An EF1 tornado was also confirmed to have hit near Potsdam around 2:30 p.m.

The first portion of the tornado was weak, the weather service said, with mainly EF0 damage. On the second portion of the 12-mile track, the tornado intensified to produce approximately 100 mph winds with tree and farm outbuilding damage. It lifted around 2:54 p.m.

A second EF2 tornado was confirmed in Olmsted County around 2:46 p.m. about 5 miles east-northeast of Viola and traveled about 7.5 miles, ending in Wabasha County, a few miles south of Plainview, around 3 p.m. Maximum wind speeds were around 125 mph. The storm affected mainly rural areas and damaged trees and outbuildings. One farmhouse lost a roof and a garage roof, the weather service said.

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No injuries were reported in the Minnesota-Wisconsin outbreak.

Friday was a historic day for the NWS La Crosse office, which issued 26 tornado warnings – the most for any one day since the office opened in 1995.



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Minneapolis city leaders say law enforcement, community members making Uptown safer, but more must be done

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Minneapolis city leaders say law enforcement, community members making Uptown safer, but more must be done


Minneapolis Mayor Jacob Frey, Police Chief Brian O’Hara and other city leaders outlined ongoing efforts to improve safety and livability in the city’s Uptown neighborhood during a news conference Tuesday morning.

The discussion focused on a series of public safety initiatives, including expanded patrols by the Minneapolis Police Department and the planned growth of the city’s Community Safety Ambassador Program in Uptown.

That program is already in place elsewhere in south Minneapolis, on East Lake Street and Franklin Avenue. Officials said Tuesday it will come to Uptown in November. One dispatcher and up to eight ambassadors will be available to perform safety escorts, wellness checks, first aid and more.

Officials say efforts to increase safety in the area have been ongoing since December, when dedicated police patrols were introduced.

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“Uptown is experiencing a comeback, but we need to be doing the work to make sure that it happens faster. We’ve all got these beautiful, nostalgic memories about what Uptown was six, seven, eight years ago. Twenty years ago,” Minneapolis Mayor Jacob Frey said. “What’s certain is the Uptown of the future is going to be dramatically different than the Uptown of the past.”

In March, dozens of people lined up for a community meeting discussing safety and livability concerns in the Uptown neighborhood. Data from the city shows there are more assaults, car thefts, robberies and calls for gunshots in the neighborhood compared to the same time last year. Community members, business owners and others have come together to launch community initiatives — like United Uptown — to get the area back on track.

Leaders describe the city’s approach as a coordinated strategy that combines public safety resources, infrastructure investments and partnerships with community organizations. City Council member Elizabeth Shaffer said the goal is “an Uptown that is safe, welcoming and enjoyable for everyone.”

Frey, O’Hara and Shaffer all highlighted drug use as a serious problem in the area. Shaffer and Frey said law enforcement has been helpful in curbing the issue, but more needs to be done. 

“We need to be stepping up to be honest about it, to do something about it, to provide the supports for people who need it and yes, also make sure that we’re enforcing the law,” Frey said. “That’s part of the comeback that we’re going to see in Uptown.”

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Driver who fatally struck bicyclist in Minneapolis may have been impaired, police say

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Driver who fatally struck bicyclist in Minneapolis may have been impaired, police say



Minneapolis police suspect a driver was under the influence when he hit and killed a bicyclist on the city’s southside early Monday morning.

Officers responded to the crash at the intersection of Hiawatha Avenue and East 35th Street around 3 a.m., according to the Minneapolis Police Department.

Upon arrival, police found a man in his 50s suffering from apparent life-threatening injuries. Officers provided immediate medical aid, including CPR, before the man was transported to Hennepin Healthcare, where he later died.

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The Minneapolis Police Department says that preliminary information indicates the driver, a 23-year-old man, had been traveling south on Hiawatha Avenue in a Ford Edge when he struck the bicyclist.

Officers arrested the driver and took him to the hospital, where police say “a search warrant for evidence collection was carried out.” Police later booked the driver into Hennepin County Jail on suspicion of criminal vehicular homicide.

The incident is still under investigation.



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