Linda Lange and Steve Ahillen
| For the Knoxville News Sentinel
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FAYETTEVILLE, Ark. – Look what has happened to Fayetteville.
This city, once considered a quiet hamlet tucked in the Ozark boonies, has blossomed into a dynamic travel destination.
“I think Fayetteville is very magnetic,” says Landry Chopin, horticulture assistant at the Botanical Garden of the Ozarks. “People in this community just want to be together outside doing things. It’s a little bit of everything for everybody here.”
Northwest Arkansas offers much to love: fresh mountain air, spring-fed lakes, miles of hiking and biking trails and small-town hospitality.
The U.S. Census ranks this city and surrounding Northwest Arkansas with a population of more than 600,000 among the top 10 fastest-growing regions in the country.
Fayetteville is home to the University of Arkansas, which consistently ranks as a favorite SEC campus. Yet, it is more than a college town. Fayetteville and nearby Bentonville present performing and visual art centers that draw nationwide attention.
Whether it is racing down the Razorback Greenway, swarming to bluegrass jams at Gulley Park or browsing the tables at the Fayetteville Farmers Market, people in this inclusive community have deep local pride.
Here the saying goes, “Visit three times, and the third time you stay.”
Hog Heaven
The University of Arkansas is the heartbeat of Fayetteville. With sweeping views of the Boston Mountains, the campus rates among the most beautiful in America because of its towering trees, expansive lawns and stately buildings. Old Main, the oldest building, completed in 1875, is constructed in the French Second Empire style with mansard roof and towers at each end.
Chimes sound throughout the day, with a rendition of the university’s alma mater each evening. These melodic tones float across campus and envelop the wide porches at The Inn at Carnall Hall. Built as a women’s dormitory in 1905, the light-filled rooms have transitioned into a stylish hotel. Together with its restaurant, Ella’s Table, the accommodation exudes welcoming Southern hospitality.
A walk across campus reveals the names of more than 200,000 graduates, each name imprinted in the sidewalks. Students study at the David W. Mullins Library, enjoy productions at the Faulkner Performing Arts Center, and socialize at the Arkansas Union and the outdoor Chi Omega Greek Theatre.
Fans go wild and loud on football weekends.
“On Razorback game day, you can smell it. It’s in the air. So much energy. So much fun,” Jill Rohrbach tells us over dinner. She is the author of “100 Things to Do in Fayetteville Before You Die.”
Red-shirted Razorback fans meet at the fearsome “Wild Band of Razorbacks” statue outside Donald W. Reynolds Razorbacks Stadium. They flood parking lots and the Hog Pen to tailgate and holler the “Woo Pig Sooie” cheer.
The celebration goes on all day, and the party along nearby Dickson Street rocks well into the night, regardless of whether the Hogs win or lose.
Beyond the campus
Townspeople’s love for the university interweaves with their affection for all things local.
At the downtown square, the Fayetteville Farmers Market sells handcrafted artisan goods and fresh produce. Locally owned clothing stores like Riffraff have a steady clientele. Shops selling Arkansas-made products line the square and its side streets. Bright, splashy murals, secondhand shops including a vinyl records store, art galleries and restaurants populate this walkable area.
A standout in the downtown dining district is Calle, serving Latin cuisine. Hugo’s, operating out of a basement since 1977, serves beer, burgers and sandwiches. Feed & Folly offers wraps, sandwiches and smoked meats, plus expansive views of the Boston Mountains from its rooftop. Nine local breweries provide enjoyable stops along the Fayetteville Ale Trail.
Eating local means getting a Tex-Mex meal with an Arkansas twist at Fayetteville Taco and Tamale Co. Patrons meet their friends for tasty housemade pappardelle at Bocca Italian Eatery and Pizzeria.
Breakfast is a big deal here. Made-from-scratch bakery goods and eye-opening coffee are the specialties at Little Bread Company, while flaky pastries and signature egg dishes highlight Prelude’s morning fare. Onyx Coffee Lab, a Northwest Arkansas specialty coffee company, has earned international accolades.
The entertainment area near campus features the Walton Arts Center, just around the corner from TheatreSquared, Arkansas’ largest professional theater company. The college crowd gravitates to George’s Majestic Lounge, a live music venue. Another venerated institution, Dickson Street Bookshop, has been operating for nearly 50 years. Shoppers get lost amid capriciously catalogued books and magazines cluttered in multiple rooms.
A quiet retreat, The Stonebreaker Hotel has 78 guest rooms overlooking the Markham Hill Nature Preserve. A restaurant serving local farm-sourced fare adjoins the inn’s native stone patios. The eco-resort is within walking distance to the campus and retail district.
Gardens, museums and more
“I’m always surprised with how many people specifically come here looking for this,” says Cesar Acosta, director of horticulture and operations. He points to a blue telephone in the Botanical Garden of the Ozarks.
The wind phone is placed here for people who want to imagine speaking with a departed loved one. The unconnected device sits in a quiet spot in the garden’s eight cultivated acres. People find it restorative to carry on heartfelt, long-distance conversations.
The rotary phone is just one of many innovative attractions. The garden is divided into 12 themed areas including a Japanese Garden and Children’s Garden. Sculptures accentuate a wide variety of plant life.
Fayetteville boasts numerous other parks, gardens and public spaces. From the Overlook at Mount Sequoyah, visitors take in panoramic views of the city at sunset. With lodging, educational programs and art exhibits, the park serves as a community gathering place. Faces representing the four seasons top The Castle, a whimsical sculptural work at Wilson Park. A small park features a Trail of Tears Memorial noting the path taken by bands of Cherokee in their forced move west.
A garden dedicated to the country’s First Ladies enhances the Clinton House Museum. Bill and Hillary Clinton lived in the Tudor Revival cottage after their marriage in 1975. Both the former President and Secretary of State once taught at the university’s School of Law. The house served as a campaign headquarters for Bill Clinton’s successful run for state attorney general in 1976.
“I think people love President Bill Clinton for the one fact that he has a humble background and he made it to be president. And, that’s kind of what America is all about – the American dream,” says Bailee King, museum director.
A group of children on a field trip scramble for a spot in the cargo area of a Lockheed C-130 H Hercules plane at the Arkansas Air and Military Museum. The plane with the 132-foot wingspan is one of about 20 aircraft among the 2,000 artifacts on display.
At Prairie Grove Battlefield State Park, visitors venture across fields where Union soldiers stopped the advance of Confederates in 1862. Covering more than 1,000 acres, it is considered one of the most perfectly preserved Civil War battlefields.
What makes Fayetteville a big-time biking city
Fayetteville makes a strong case as the nation’s No. 1 biking city.
The Union Cycliste Internationale (UCI) designated Fayetteville as a bike city, the only U.S. city with that honor. The League of American Bicyclists honored the city as Arkansas’ first and only gold-level bicycle friendly community.
“Bicycling is an integral part of this city,” says Brannon Pack, a cycling tourism leader. “We have 60 miles of paved trails and 60 miles of mountain trails, giving our residents direct access to a 120-mile network within the city limits.”
Kessler Mountain Regional Park has more than 20 miles of meticulously constructed mountain bike trails. Hiking is also popular through the park’s hilly terrain. Kessler Mountain is also the starting point for the amazing 40-mile Razorback Greenway which runs past Bentonville.
“We see people all over the greenway,” Pack says. “Walking, biking, rollerblading. We see it used for recreation and transportation. Bikers commute to work.”
Bicyclists particularly like the stretch where the greenway weaves through the Ramble. A trail offshoot twists and turns passed woodland gardens and art structures.
In addition to greenways, Fayetteville’s streets are exceedingly biker- and walker-friendly with well-marked bike lanes and sidewalks. Pack says the goal is that by 2040 every structure in the city will be within a two-minute bike ride of the trail infrastructure.
Eureka Springs
A short drive through the verdant Ozarks leads to the Victorian-era resort town of Eureka Springs.
The glass walls of Thorncrown Chapel rise nearly 50 feet into the leafy woods. Architect E. Fay Jones’ inspiration was to blend the structure perfectly with the surrounding trees as if “man and nature had planned it together.” Visitors sit in pews and feel peacefulness.
Nearby at Lake Leatherwood City Park, kayakers and canoeists paddle across the water and spot turtles, herons and hawks. Other visitors fish from the banks and hike on 25 miles of trails.
Downtown Eureka combines historic structures and quaint tourist attractions. People roam among eclectic shops to the soundtrack of motorcycles, bluegrass music and children’s laughter.
Abundant freshwater springs brought folks to the town 150 years ago. Original stonework structures adorn the predominant springs, including Crescent, Grotto, Magnetic and Basin Springs.
The wedge-shaped Flatiron Building is the city’s signature structure; however, the allegedly haunted 1886 Crescent Hotel competes for fame. Visitors often sense creepy vibes during nightly ghost tours.
The 67-foot Christ of the Ozarks statue is said to be the tallest statue of Christ in the United States. It was erected in 1966 on Magnetic Mountain as a symbol of hope. The Great Passion Play and other religious-themed attractions are nearby.
Linda Lange and Steve Ahillen, longtime Knoxville residents, are travel writers living in Nashville, Tenn.