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Riding this train through California’s snowy mountains rules right now

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Riding this train through California’s snowy mountains rules right now

Crossing up and over the fabled Donner Pass in the northern Sierra Nevada and descending to Lake Tahoe is one of those essential rites of passage for Californians.

But forget doing it in a car. Now is the time to hop on board Amtrak’s long-distance California Zephyr and see the amazing snowpack from the comfort of the train’s observation car. A series of storms in the last few weeks have left California’s mountains with a lovely cloak of fresh powder.

The Zephyr goes all the way to Chicago over two days, but don’t be intimidated. I’m here to evangelize for this essential intra-California trip. I made the last-minute trip to Truckee from the East Bay after my wife and I realized we couldn’t all fit in her mom’s FJ Cruiser — our baby’s extensive gear and mom’s two dogs essentially claimed my seat. Taking two cars seemed like a waste.

No worries, for $62 I grabbed a coach seat on the next day’s train for the five-ish hour ride to Tahoe.

The train departs daily from Emeryville in the East Bay at 9:10 a.m. though the next stop a few minutes later in Richmond has the added benefit of an adjoining BART station for the true transit sickos among us.

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I dropped by bag at my assigned seat and made my way to the observation car with a couple snacks and coffee in hand. There are great views of the San Pablo Bay and the Carquinez Strait but the real star of the show is the Sierra Nevada and you will have to wait for that.

Scenes from a ride on Amtrak’s long-distance California Zephyr train trip through the northern Sierra Nevada.

(Javier Panzar / Los Angeles Times)

Now is an important time to emphasize that the key to enjoying any Amtrak trip is cultivating a strong mental detachment from timeliness. The train will be late. Maybe a little, maybe a lot. Develop a discipline to forget all that. Leave behind whatever clock normally dominates you.

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Kill time any way you can. Pack a nice meal, zone out with music, bring Uno if you are traveling with pals or want to make new friends.

Scenes from a ride on Amtrak’s long-distance California Zephyr train trip through the northern Sierra Nevada.

(Javier Panzar / Los Angeles Times)

But the best way to pass the time is the dining car. The staff opened up for lunch after we left Sacramento and I was quickly making small talk with three strangers about menu strategies. The cheeseburger with chips was solid as ever but the buttercake from Frank & Louie’s Italian Specialties in Delaware was new and it was mind-blowing. If you stay on the train long enough for dinner, the Amtrak Steak has never let me down.

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As we ate, the Sierra Foothills started to appear out the window as we made our way up the mountains along a ridge. You can peer down into the amazing intricate forested canyons carved by the North Fork American River and its tributaries.

Now it was time to grab a seat at an observation car table and wait for the approaching snow. Somewhere between the historic gold rush towns of Auburn and Colfax you can start to see the bright, almost blinding white peaks of the Sierras jutting out from above the tree line as the train climbs. After these weeks of storms you start to understand why John Muir described this range as “so luminous, it seems to be not clothed with light, but wholly composed of it, like the wall of some celestial city.”

Scenes from a ride on Amtrak’s long-distance California Zephyr train trip through the northern Sierra Nevada.

(Javier Panzar / Los Angeles Times)

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Slowly the scenery transforms as the snow cover spreads and deepens. Soon enough the train passed through two different ski resorts and vacationers greeted us by unleashing a barrage of snowballs on the observation car. The train goes through a few tunnels and amazing views of snow-covered ridges greet riders on the other side.

Donner Lake’s clear waters appear next below the train, you will want to have a seat on the left side of the train for this. The lake is down the hill and you can see the snow capped-hills reflected back.

If you go

Amtrack’s California Zephyr: Emeryville to Truckee

Departure time: Every morning at 9:10 a.m.
Ride length: 5 hours (but expect delays)
Best side to sit on: Sit on the right then hop to the left to see Donner Lake
Most scenic stretch: Colfax to Truckee
Learn more: Amtrack’s California Zephyr

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Downtown Truckee followed not that long after, a great place to stroll around and grab coffee. Public transportation can take you to the various ski resorts but I was lucky enough to grab a ride from a family friend already in town. The train isn’t for everyone but it’s a great way to take in the grandeur of California.

I always end up striking conversations with fellow passengers. Amtrak has a special way of attracting interesting oddballs from all over the country. Unlike air travel, most people are content with taking the scenic route at a deliberate pace. This ride I passed the time chatting with a teacher from Omaha and a fellow train enthusiast from Japan. He said Japan’s trains are definitely faster, but for the scenery, nothing beats America.

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Rebecca Gayheart Dane on caring for her late husband, Eric Dane, and synthetic voices

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Rebecca Gayheart Dane on caring for her late husband, Eric Dane, and synthetic voices

Rebecca Gayheart-Dane speaks onstage at the 16th Annual Chrysalis Butterfly Ball on June 3, 2017 in Los Angeles, California.

Alberto E. Rodriguez / Getty Images for Chrysalis Butterfly Ball


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Alberto E. Rodriguez / Getty Images for Chrysalis Butterfly Ball

The actor Eric Dane, who played Dr. Mark Sloan on the medical drama Grey’s Anatomy, died last month. Dane was 53, and announced he had been diagnosed with ALS last April.

The disease affects nerves in the brain and spinal cord, robbing a person of their ability to walk, breathe and often speak.

Dane’s widow, Rebecca Gayheart Dane, told NPR it was devastating to see his voice slip away.

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“He was witty, acerbic, full of humor, and he always had a great story,” Gayheart Dane said. “So, as speaking became harder for him, I watched and witnessed some of his joy fade, and it was really hard and very heartbreaking.”

She is now working with ElevenLabs, an artificial intelligence company that makes synthetic voice software. The company developed a program that helps people with permanent voice loss replicate their voices, including Eric Dane’s.

Gayheart Dane spoke with All Things Considered host Juana Summers about her role as a caregiver and her complex feelings about artificial intelligence.

Listen to the full interview by clicking on the blue play button above.

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Street style at the Hollywood Farmers Market feels like a magic Saturday evening

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Street style at the Hollywood Farmers Market feels like a magic Saturday evening

Over the course of three Sundays, Image contributing photographer Jennelle Fong captured stylish visitors with their bounty at the venerated Hollywood Farmers Market. “It didn’t have to be a Sunday morning, it could’ve been a Saturday evening,” says Fong. Walking up and down the cross of the four corridors of the farmers market felt like a runway: sweat pants mixed with Hermès, coordinated ERL looks, a Converse heel and an actual Balenciaga x Erewhon bag. Even the rolling carts served as extensions of people’s accessories. The energy was radiant, easygoing, alert and nothing short of magical.

Street-style fashion on Sundays at the Hollywood Farmers Market in Los Angeles, CA.
Cameron Crotty wears Liberty London sweater, Adidas skirt and Converse Chuck 70 De Luxe Heel High Top sneakers.

Cameron Crotty wears Liberty London sweater, Adidas skirt and Converse Chuck 70 De Luxe Heel High Top sneakers.

Audrea Wah wears thrifted dress and top, customized by herself, pants from Santee Alley and Fumsup Silver necklace.

Audrea Wah wears thrifted dress and top, customized by herself, pants from Santee Alley and Fumsup Silver necklace.

Detail of mandarin oranges and Audrea Wah's hands.
Paige McGowan wears a Hiroko Hata skirt, vintage shirt and vintage tote.

Paige McGowan wears a Hiroko Hata skirt, vintage shirt and vintage tote.

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Detail of Paige McGowan's vintage shirt and vintage tote.

Detail of Paige McGowan’s vintage tote.

Samantha Klein with Variety Hour petal bag and Miu Miu loafers.

Samantha Klein with Variety Hour petal bag and Miu Miu loafers.

Samantha Klein in vintage and Variety Hour petal bag, and Aaron Klein in vintage and Big Bud Press stripe bag.

Samantha Klein in vintage and Variety Hour petal bag, and Aaron Klein, right, in vintage and Big Bud Press stripe bag.

Quincy Vadan wears his personal jewelry designs, under the brand Vadan.

Quincy Vadan wears his personal jewelry designs, under the brand Vadan.

Quincy Vadan wears his personal jewelry designs, under the brand Vadan.
Austin wears a hat, polo top, shorts & sneakers. Carlos wears a top, shorts, boots and Balenciaga x Erewhon bag.

At left, Austin Bachlor wears a Bellagio souvenir hat, and polo top, shorts and sneakers from ERL. At right, Carlos Bachlor wears vintage top from The Dig, shorts and boots from ERL and Balenciaga x Erewhon bag.

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Austin Bachlor wears a Bellagio hat, and polo top, shorts and sneakers. Carlos Bachlor wears vintage top, shorts and boots.
Dijah Malone and Kush.
Dijah Malone
Kush
Ace King in Adidas at the Hollywood Farmers Market in Los Angeles, CA.
Street-style fashion on Sundays at the Hollywood Farmers Market in Los Angeles, CA. Ace King in Adidas
Street-style fashion on Sundays at the Hollywood Farmers Market.
Pups Oliver and Koko wear a sunny yellow bucket hat.

Pups Oliver and Koko wear a sunny yellow bucket hat.

Steven Pardo carries an Enorme bag.

Steven Pardo carries an Enorme bag.

Anastasiia Yermak in mirrored sunglasses.

Anastasiia Yermak in mirrored sunglasses.

Marina Mizruh
Street-style fashion on Sundays at the Hollywood Farmers Market in Los Angeles, CA.
Street-style fashion by Ennis Kamcili at the Hollywood Farmers Market in Los Angeles, CA.
Street-style fashion on Sundays at the Hollywood Farmers Market in Los Angeles, CA with Nancy Silverton.
Buckets of flowers at the Hollywood Farmers Market in Los Angeles, CA.
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Harrison Ford isn’t retiring: ‘I really wouldn’t know what to do with myself’

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Harrison Ford isn’t retiring: ‘I really wouldn’t know what to do with myself’

“I’m happy to be the age I am, and have no impulse to hide it,” says Harrison Ford. He’s shown above accepting the Screen Actors Guild Life Achievement Award in Los Angeles on March 1.

Valerie Macon/AFP via Getty Images


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Valerie Macon/AFP via Getty Images

After playing some of the most recognizable and beloved characters in cinematic history, Harrison Ford is not interested in retiring. “Without my work, I really wouldn’t know what to do with myself,” the 83-year-old actor says. “I really do love the work. … It constantly changes, and the people change, and the mission and the opportunity change, and it just makes for an interesting way to live your life.”

Ford initially struggled to find his footing in Hollywood. He worked on-and-off as a carpenter for years before landing the breakthrough role of Han Solo in the original Star Wars film. He went on to star in the Star Wars sequels, as well as the Indiana Jones movies and Blade Runner — all the while frequently performing his own action scenes.

“I don’t want to have to hide the face of the character because it’s a stunt guy,” he says. “I want [the audience] to feel the blow. I want them to see the anxiety. I want them to be there when the decision is made or when the decision is missed. I just want them to be there.”

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In the current Apple TV series, Shrinking, Ford plays a therapist named Paul who’s been diagnosed with Parkinson’s disease. Thus far, he says, the show’s writers haven’t shared with him the progression of Paul’s disease. Instead, he says, “Like a true Parkinson’s patient, I don’t really know what’s coming. … I’m sort of living with the symptoms I have been last described as having.”

Recently, Ford teared up while accepting a recognition for lifetime achievement at the Actor Awards. “That speech that I wrote was not crafted to be emotional; it just happened to me,” he says. “I feel slightly embarrassed by it, because I have enough experience with these things to want to be able to manage not to be overcome.”

Interview highlights 

On being asked to help in Star Wars auditions while on a carpentry job at Francis Ford Coppola‘s office

I was there sweeping up. I was just finishing the job when George Lucas walked in [who Ford knew from appearing in Lucas’ last film, American Graffiti] … and I’m standing there in my carpenter’s work belt, sweeping up the floor. It turned out to be a fortuitous occasion, because weeks later I would end up being asked if I would do them a favor and read with the other actors who were being considered for the parts. … I never was told that I was ever to be considered, and then at the end of the process, I guess they ended up with two groups of three people that were in final consideration. I’ve always been amused that in the second group, the character of Han Solo would have been played by Chris Walken. I would have loved to see that.

On his most famous ad-lib in a film

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[It’s] the line in Star Wars where Princess Leia tells me that she loves me and I say, “I know,” instead of saying “I love you too,” which is the scripted line. Simply the impulse was to be more in character. And George Lucas, who had written the line, was not so happy that I didn’t give him the original version. But I really felt strongly about it. So he made me sit next to him when he previewed the film in a public movie theater in San Francisco and it got … a good laugh. And so he accepted it and left it in.

On seeing Star Wars for the first time on screen

I was blown away. I mean, I was really shocked by the power of the film. We shot in England and our English crew were not used to something like Star Wars, and so they were pretty sure that it was going to be a disaster. And we weren’t far from that opinion, ourselves, the actors.

On performing an emergency landing while flying solo in a vintage World War II airplane

Let’s just start by saying that it was a mechanical failure. … It was a 74-year-old airplane, and I was 74 years old at the time. .. Four hundred feet in the air above the airport, the engine quit. And it’s my home airport, and I was familiar with the surrounding terrain, which is cluttered with houses, wires and cars, and people. So I turned to a golf course that was there. …

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In my ear was the very clear voice of one of my aviation mentors who always, when talking about mechanical failures or other kinds of failures, the advice was to “fly the airplane as far into the crash as possible.” You think about this thing when you’re a pilot, you think about the potential, the possibility of it happening, and of course you train. So when it happened, it was not really a surprise, and I thought I knew what I had to do to handle it, so I just started doing the things that needed to be done. … I don’t remember actually being scared. [My injuries] were more than described in the newspaper, but I’m over them all, thank you. I got my license back and continue to fly. … I am not a thrill seeker. I am a very conservative pilot. It’s not that I do crazy stuff for the fun of it.

On objecting to the Vietnam War draft 

I was facing being drafted and I hired a lawyer to represent me to the draft board. I had to explain why I might qualify as a conscientious objector. I explained that I did not have a history of religious affiliation. My mother was Jewish, my father Catholic. … I was raised Democrat. I’m quite happy to accept other people’s versions of God, but I found in a Protestant theologian named Paul Tillich, a sentence that said: If you have trouble with the word God, take whatever is central and most meaningful to your life and call that God.

And to me that was life itself, the complexity, the biodiversity, the incredible integration and complexity of nature, to me seemed to be the same thing as God. And so I prepared an explanation that was probably so unusual that it found the edge of a desk and had a lot of things piled on top of it because it didn’t fit a niche. They never got back to me, basically. The draft board never got back to me.

Lauren Krenzel and Nico Gonzalez Wisler produced and edited this interview for broadcast. Bridget Bentz, Molly Seavy-Nesper and Beth Novey adapted it for the web.

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