Seattle’s 10 Biggest Restaurant Stories of 2024

What a year it has been. It’s impossible to adequately summarize the highs and lows of 2024, but there’s something cathartic about re-engaging with the stories that really grabbed our readers and captured the mood of the last 12 months in Seattle. From the saddest closures to the triumphs of a solo deliveryman stickin’ it to the apps, these were the biggest moments in Seattle food news this year.

Shame on us for thinking the Barbie bump was over post-Barbenheimer Summer 2023. Seattle’s decorated restaurant institution Canlis proved that odes to the Mattel brand continue to capture attention even a year later, when in July the whole restaurant was repainted Barbie pink to transform into “Kenlis” for a a doll-themed two-day party in August. Naturally, it sold out.

There’s nothing more wholesome in the face of late-stage capitalism than watching a guy like Tony Illes rise in the delivery wars against the likes of DoorDash and Uber Eats. Illes made a name for himself by charging a flat delivery fee, competing with the high costs of competitors that hiked rates in response to Seattle standards for minimum wage workers on the app. We salute you, Tony Delivers.

This story’s outsized impact merely scrapes the surface of what Howdy Bagel co-owner Jake Carter meant to the wider community. Carter was tragically killed while traveling in New Orleans in January. The Tacoma restaurant, which is known to draw long lines, reopened in February with friends and fans of the shop paying tribute to Carter in the form of hand-written notes.

In August, Eater Seattle editor Harry Cheadle reported on the exception to Seattle’s minimum wage law that allowed small businesses to give tipped workers a lower base pay rate than non-tipped workers. Allowing the exemption to expire will likely put a squeeze on many restaurants in the city next year and perhaps lead to broader changes such as increased use of service fees. In October, elected officials confirmed that they would allow the tipped credit exemption to expire as planned. Hourly workers in all businesses, tipped or not, will be paid $20.76 come 2025.

Seattle celebrated its 2024 crop of James Beard Award semifinalists in January. Included among the ranks were Quynh-Vy and Yenvy Pham of Pho Bac, the Boat, and Phocific Standard Time; Aaron Verzosa of Archipelago; the Walrus and the Carpenter; Jenet Becerra of Pancita; Ben Campbell of Ben’s Bread Co.; and Eight Row. They were joined by Kristi Brown of Communion, Grayson Corrales of MariPili Tapas Bar, Evan Leichtling of Off Alley, Melissa Miranda of Musang, Avery Adams of Orcas Island’s Matia Kitchen, and Derek Bray at the Table in Tacoma — all of whom were under consideration for the Best Chef: Northwest and Pacific category. Ultimately, the region walked away empty-handed.

Build-your-own pizza chain Mod Pizza got its start in Seattle and has expanded to hundreds of locations since then, but lately, it’s fallen on hard times. In what’s been characterized as a move to avert bankruptcy, Mod sold to Elite Restaurant Group in July.

The early aughts trend in cupcake shops managed to sustain in Seattle for decades under Cupcake Royale. The brand founded by Jody Hall opened in 2003 on the leading edge of the cupcake craze in the PNW. But, like so many things harmed by the pandemic, Hall announced that Cupcake Royale would be shutting down its cafes to focus on delivery and pickup service.

Seattle lost more than a few great restaurants and bars this year — we’re looking at you ʔálʔal Cafe, Two Doors Down, Coastal Kitchen, that one weird Taco Time — but some hurt more than others and for Eater Seattle readers, dry-aged burger favorite 49th Street Beast was deeply mourned. The restaurant closed on July 28 inside Fair Island Brewing.

In brighter burger news, Familyfriend absolutely captivated diners this year with its smash-hit Kewpie burger — a dish so good it earned an Eater Award. Eater Seattle’s piece on the dramatic rise of Familyfriend on TikTok revealed even more about this Guamian gamechanger, which (by the way) has way more than burgers to offer.

Word of Andrew Rubinstein’s forthcoming bagel shop delighted fans throughout the Seattle area after he sold his namesake shop Rubinstein Bagels to restaurateur Ethan Stowell. Rubinstein’s new venture, Hey Bagel, is slated to open any day now in University Village and you could cut the anticipation with a bread knife.