Well Traveled: Chamonix, Courmayeur, and Crans-Montana

During ski season, throngs of Dallasites flock to Rocky Mountain resorts—with good reason. They’re easy to get to, and the skiing in Colorado is great. But those seeking a more adventurous experience will want to give the Alps a try.

In planning planning a recent trip, I turned to Best of the Alps, an organization that represents 10 of the top Alpine resorts in Europe. We decided to fly in and out of Geneva and focus on three destinations: Crans-Montana in Switzerland, Chamonix in France, and Courmayeur in Italy.

The Alps and Rockies are similar in height, but villages in the Alps tend to sit at lower altitudes, which results in longer ski runs and more vertical drop.

The French village of Chamonix, for example, sits at about 3,300 feet above sea level—about a third of Breckenridge’s elevation of 9,600 feet—yet its highest ski elevation is 12,600 feet. The longest run in Chamonix tops 22 kilometers—or about 13.7 miles. That’s a lot of skiing.

There are other notable differences. Many of the runs in the Alps are above the tree line, creating expansive, open trails, all of which are groomed. The lower tree lines also reveal the jagged mountaintops, giving them an incredibly dramatic look.

In Europe, off-piste skiing (out of bounds of groomed, marked areas) is abundant and encouraged. For this reason, and to make the experience even more enjoyable, I highly recommend hiring a ski guide. The Europeans are serious about training; it can take years to become certified. Our guide in Crans-Montana was a former World Cup skier.

After an overnight flight, my boyfriend and I picked up a rental car in Geneva then made the two-hour trek to Crans-Montana, much of it around Lake Geneva. The last bit of our journey involved hairpin turns and steep climbs, which the locals seemed to handle with ease.

We stayed at the wonderfully quaint Faern Hotel. It offered cozy rooms, easy access to ski lifts and the village, and an expansive breakfast buffet that included my favorite, muesli. Sadly, low-hanging clouds detracted from both the typically stunning views and visibility, but the quality of the skiing itself was exceptional.

Afterward, we took some time to go shopping in the Rue du Prado (which feels like a cobblestone-street version of Highland Park Village) and walk around a beautiful lantern path between two lakes, stopping for a cup of the most delicious mulled wine I’ve ever tasted.

Note: Vail Resorts recently acquired the Crans-Montana ski resort, so it will be on the Epic pass starting this winter.

After two days in Switzerland, we drove about 90 minutes to France’s Chamonix, famous for offering some of the best—and most challenging—skiing in all of Europe. Home to the very first Winter Olympics in 1924, it’s made up of five ski areas. We skied at Le Tour (good for beginners and intermediates on-piste and experts off-piste) and Brévent-Flégère (good for intermediates).

The Chamonix-Mont Blanc region is iconic for extreme sports. After all, alpinism was invented here, when two climbers reached the summit of Mont Blanc in 1786. (Make time to visit the town’s spectacular Musée Alpin, or Alpine Museum, to learn more.)

While in Chamonix, you will no doubt see paragliders and a lot of off-piste skiers—of all ages—wearing backpacks with avalanche airbags. The region is home to one of the most famous off-piste runs in the world, the Vallee Blanche, a glacial run from the top of Aiguille du Midi (more on that in a bit) into town—a descent of nearly 9,000 feet.

After a day on the slopes, we were welcomed at the charming Chalet Hôtel Whymper with fresh macaroons, a bottle of champagne, and a lovely note written in rose petals.

Visitors to Chamonix will be delighted to find that they’ll be able to enjoy the haute cuisine for which France is famous in the small mountain town. During our stay, we dined at Le Matafan at the legendary, five-star Hotel Mont Blanc and Akashon in Hotel Heliopic.

On our final afternoon in France, we rode the Aiguille du Midi cable car, which holds the world record for the highest vertical ascent (more than 9,200 feet) and takes you the closest you can get to the Mont Blanc summit without climbing. As one would imagine, the views from the top—of the French, Swiss, and Italian Alps and the village below—are stunning. The very brave (not me) will want to head to Terrace 3842 at the summit and enter a glass overhang box aptly named Step Into the Void.

The next morning, we traveled about 30 minutes through the famous Mont Blanc Tunnel to arrive in Italy and Courmayeur. In part due to the bluebird weather conditions and the expertise of our exceptional guide, Alessandra, the skiing in Courmayeur was phenomenal—the best of our trip.

Gliding through glistening powder in the shadow of one the world’s most famous peaks was almost surreal. Courmayeur also offered terrific on-mountain dining, with renowned pizza at Capitan des Alpes and gourmet specialties at La Chaumière.

Evening meals were exceptional, too. In town, we dined at Cadran Solaire, opened more than 50 years ago within the oldest tavern in Courmayeur. It features secret rooms, a 17th century stone vault, and a mashup of Alpine and Italian specialties.

The next evening, a 20-minute drive took us to La Clotze, a beautifully decorated, family-run restaurant featuring recipes that have been passed down generation to generation. It was here where I discovered the magic of génépi, a European herbal liqueur that’s frequently enjoyed as a “digestif” after a large meal. We made sure to pack a bottle to bring back to the States.

We didn’t need to travel far for superior breakfasts. Our boutique hotel, Bouton d’Or, featured homemade pastries by proprietor Patrizia’s husband, Andrea. I’m still dreaming of his incredible crème puffs, strudel, and quiches.  

Walking the cobblestone, carless streets of Courmayeur at night is magical. I don’t own a dog, but I was obsessed with the luxury apparel and accessories at the Prince and Princess boutique. Top fashion brands are well represented, too—no surprise when you consider that Courmayeur is only a couple of hours away from Milan.

On your walkabout, I highly recommend stopping for an aperitivo at Goù. You won’t be disappointed in the wines, and the complimentary charcuterie board was outstanding. (The Italians serve charcuterie the way Mexican restaurants in the U.S. offer chips and salsa.)

Before completing our European loop with a 90-minute trip back to Geneva, we took one last look at the region with a ride on the three-station Skyway Monte Bianco, which offers an up-close look at the Italian side of Mont Blanc. Built in 2015 at a cost of about $119 million, it’s an engineering marvel.

Each car can carry about 80 people and does a full rotation during the journey, giving riders a 360-degree view. The top station, Punta Hellbronner/The Sky, includes an exhibit of crystals, for which the entire region is famous. There’s also a high-altitude wine-making cave. It was an incredible way to end a fantastic adventure.

As we were heading back to Dallas, I remarked to my boyfriend how happy everyone seemed to be in these Alpine regions. But I guess it’s no surprise when you’re surrounded by the finest chocolates, coffee, and wine—and some of the world’s best skiing. We can’t wait to go back.

Travel Tips

Why Switzerland Is Tops For This Global Adventurer

Dr. Kenneth Cooper has traveled to 82 countries; one of his favorites is Switzerland. He first visited there in 1962 with a trip to Interlaken and has returned many times—to Zurich, Geneva, Zermatt, St. Moritz, and more. One of his most memorable adventures was skiing the Fee Glacier during the summer at Saas-Fee, a resort near Zermatt and the Italian border. “You get to the valley by train, then through a tunnel and up a funicular,” Cooper says. Known globally as “the father of aerobics,” he has had a home in Beaver Creek for 40 years. Cooper says it’s the quality of the snow that attracts skiers to the Rockies and the Alps. “They both have that beautiful soft and light powder,” he says.