Best of Montana Moment: Barns of the Big Hole, land of 10,000 haystacks

JACKSON, Mont. — They call the Big Hole Valley “The Land of 10,000 Haystacks.”

The Big Hole Historical Society wrote a book called “History of the Big Hole Valley-Montana Pioneers of the Old West-1806-1930.” It was a mammoth undertaking.

In its 448 pages, the book recounts Lewis and Clark’s visit, the Battle of the Big Hole, stories of the Native Americans who inhabited this land for thousands of years and histories of the Big Hole ranches and their families.

Some of that ranch history focuses on the unique barns that stand on this vast landscape.

We spent time with two of the book’s contributors, Ruth Nelson Little and Bruce Denny, who took us on a tour of some of the majestic barns that frame the large ranches that make up this famous valley.

Along the way, we met Max and Debbie Lapham, who ranch near Jackson.

From its beaverslides for stacking hay, to its cattle and sweeping vistas, the Lapham Ranch offers an ideal picture of the Big Hole Valley.

We met the couple at their ranch and talked to them at their barn.

“The ranch started in about 1888 from homesteads,” said Max. ” My grandfather and my great-grandfather ended up buying out homesteads.”

In about 1910, the Lapham family built the barn that Max and Debbie and their children still use today.”

It’s a haven for all animals.

“When we’ve got cold calves, we put them in the barn and cover them with straw,” said Max.

Debbie said, “We can usually put seven, eight, 10 cows in here on a blizzard night.”

The original support braces holding up the barn’s roof were placed at an angle to keep it sturdy.

“If you have any kind of wind or snow,” said Max, “nothing bothers it.”

“I’ve had a love affair with barns all my life,” said Ruth Nelson Little. “I love barns. Everything about them.”

Ruth was born and raised on a ranch in the Big Hole Valley. She traces her ancestors back to pioneers. Cecile and Frederick Hirschy came to the valley in 1894.

“They were from Switzerland, and they came to make cheese,” said Ruth. “They did that for several years and finally decided to start ranching. Today, several of their great-grand kids are still ranching in the valley.”

Ruth and Bruce Denny brought us to see a beautiful white and blue horse barn in the valley that’s unique for its colors. It’s been in the same pioneer family for more than 100 years.

Ruth said every barn is unique, the workmanship of many cultures.

“Barns from Sweden,” she said. “From Switzerland and Denmark.”

Bruce took us to one of his favorite barns on what he remembers as the old Sparrow Ranch. This huge, unpainted barn is weathered and majestic — a straight-standing granddaddy that’s stood the test of time.

“It’s beautiful,” said Bruce. “It’s in good shape and it’s so big.”

This barn served draft horses, dairy cows, even chickens.

“They did it all in this huge barn,” said Ruth.

“Look at the floor planks,” said Bruce. “You couldn’t find trees that big anymore.”

In the dairy barn, Bruce sat down an old milking stool.

“I’m at the Sparrow Ranch in this monster of a barn,” he marveled.

We climbed into the hayloft where Bruce looked up and all around.

“This has got to be the biggest barn I’ve ever been in,” he said.

On the John Eliel Ranch, now owned by Heidi Hirschy, Ruth and Bruce brought us to another Big Hole beauty. It’s a big red barn that overlooks much of the Big Hole Valley.

We climbed into its hayloft where Bruce showed us an old time hay basket.

“That’s how the hay in these barns,” he said.

Then he opened the loft doors to expose a grand vista.

“Here’s the famous Big Hole right here,” he said. “If you want to know why we love it.”

Barns have always been caregivers, protectors of livestock and ranchers. They’re always there when you need them.

“It’s what keeps the animals alive,” said Debbie Lapham. “It’s where they eat. It’s where they sleep. It’s where they get in out of the cold.”

The Big Hole is magnificent country. But it can also be harsh, and a challenge to those ranchers, past and present, who make their living here.

“I think you can feel that,” said Max Lapham. “After generations on these ranches somebody sacrificed an awful lot.”

“There’s little babies in the cemetery up here on the corner,” he said, “that were only just a few days old.”

Every corner of the Laphams’ hard-working barn holds a story.

“Max talks to his grandparents a lot,” said Debbie.

“Yeah,” said Max. “I think my granddad is riding with me. I always think that.”

“I have a feeling that he’s here,” he said. “And I’m taking care of something he took care of.”

“The barn takes care of us,” said Max. “It’s part of our life,” ranch life in the Big Hole Valley.