Imagine a long expanse of pristine sand slipping into calm, lapping, crystal-clear waters. The occasional chunk of driftwood juts out as mountains cut an elegant outline in the distance. Forced to guess which state you’re in, you might draw a blank — the mountains are a bit of an anomaly. Yet such a place exists in Montana. It’s called Somers Beach State Park, an underrated gem sitting on the northwest shore of Flathead Lake. Its sandy shorelines and wide-open space provide plenty of room for swimming, birding, and a few trails.

The 106-acre beach rests along Flathead Lake, one of the largest freshwater lakes in the U.S. The 200-square-mile blue gem has been lauded by visitors and sites like Lake.com as being the 10th-cleanest lake in the country, earning a spot on the list of U.S. lakes that are unbelievably clean and clear. The surroundings aren’t that bad either. Visitors who hit the beach often relish its view of the Swan Mountains stretching across the horizon. The park is still evolving: Montana acquired the property in 2021, opened the beach a year later, and has been building up its facilities and amenities ever since.

The key to visiting Somers Beach State Park is timing. Because its size changes with Flathead Lake’s water levels, many visitors have come away confused, underwhelmed, or plain old angry to find a rocky, windy stretch of shoreline. Fair enough, since Somers Beach’s sandy shores have a knack for disappearing in the summer. Instead, they emerge when Flathead Lake’s water dips between fall and spring, only to rise up with the temperatures.

For those looking to take a dip in Somers Beach’s waters, there comes a compromise. You can have warm waters — or you can have a sandy shore. You can’t have both. How much swimming you actually get done while there will depend on when you visit. During the summer, the shallow portion of the beach can stretch for several hundred yards, leaving you wading through waist-deep water for an interminably long time. “It’s fun because the lake isn’t as high and there’s quite a long stretch of beach to play in the water or just bask in the sun,” one local wrote in a Google review. “It’s a beautiful place to see Flathead Lake and the mountains.” Visiting outside the summer carries its own set of issues, as Flathead Lake’s water temperature tends to plummet. Bring hiking boots and binoculars instead.

As a relatively young state park, Somers Beach doesn’t have a formal trail system. All the better, as you then have a chance to just wander about. The nearby town of Somers contains plenty to see to the west, while to the east are wetlands and a grassy area north of the shore. Birders will have plenty to enjoy as well. The Flathead Lake Waterfowl Production Area east of the beach provides habitat for over 200 species of birds. (Authorities close off access to the area during nesting season, between March and July.) If you time your visit right, you can spend a day with sand between your toes. The drop in water level creates a half-mile expanse of sandy shoreline worthy of a peaceful stroll.

Flathead Lake’s proximity to Glacier National Park makes Somers Beach accessible by several modes of transportation. Glacier Park International Airport is only half an hour’s drive away. While the beach alone may not justify a long-haul flight, it pairs well with other destinations around the lake. That includes Yellow Bay State Park, a crowd-free paradise surrounded by cherry orchards. Together, they can fill an entire weekend with adventure.

Unfortunately, you can’t pitch a tent right on the beach; the state park is day-use only. Fortunately, finding a place to sleep nearby isn’t much of a hassle. A ring of accommodations orbits Flathead Lake, including luxury cabins costing several hundred dollars per night. The highly-rated Somers Bay Cabin Lodging is minutes away as well, with log cabins that have lake views, ranging in size from studios to two-bedroom units. Despite the rustic exterior, the interiors still have all the modern conveniences you’d expect, from Wi-Fi to heating.

The beach’s home alongside Flathead Lake makes it adjacent to several must-see areas, chief among them Flathead Valley. The unexpectedly up-and-coming wine region — yes, a wine region in Montana — with its excellent wineries and nearby orchards, provides an ideal bookend for a trip to Somers Beach. If you visit during the warmer months, be sure to bring bug spray to keep the mosquitoes at bay. If you plan on hauling a boatload of supplies with you — inflatables, coolers, or chairs — bring a wagon. The jaunt from the parking area to the beach can be longer than it looks.

New Mexico is blessed with rich culinary traditions connected to the many cultures that have settled there, from the First Peoples to the Spaniards, miners, railway builders, and Route 66 migrants. I’m a repeat visitor to The Land of Enchantment who is lucky to have friends living in Santa Fe, Albuquerque, and Las Cruces. With every meal I eat in New Mexico, I’m deeply impressed by the complexity of the state’s cuisine and the centuries-old traditions that have shaped and defined it.

My friends and I make it our quest to eat at places that offer not just fabulous food but also a taste of New Mexico’s history. Some are housed in buildings dating back almost 400 years. Others are 19th-century saloons on the National Register of Historic Places or vintage diners that fed thousands of 20th-century road-trippers. Many are heritage eateries operated by the third and fourth generations of New Mexican families. Dine at any of these spots, and you’ll come away with an authentic taste of the state and a deeper appreciation of its enchanting history.

Few dishes are more cherished by New Mexicans than the green chile cheeseburger. So, it makes sense to order one at The Mine Shaft Tavern, which is located in a town that oozes Land of Enchantment history. Today, the Madrid-based restaurant still holds its 1940s-era role as a social hub, eatery, and boot-stomping music venue, and it’s famous in ghost-hunting circles for being one of the historic taverns across the U.S. with a haunted history. Patrons vie for standing room at the 40-foot-long wooden bar that’s also oddly tall – built high enough so a miner could stand and stretch his aching back while knocking back a whiskey.

The tavern’s best bite is the massive Mad Chile Burger made with Wagyu beef, buffalo, or a veggie patty. Topped with velvety cheese, chopped green chiles, and a whole, fried Hatch chile, the burger is big enough for two. If you aren’t driving, ask the bartender to whip up a Mad Chile Margarita, a sweet-hot concoction of tequila, lime, and jalapeño. Sip it slowly so you remember to pronounce “Madrid” properly, with the accent on the first syllable (not like the Spanish city).

https://www.themineshafttavern.com/
(505) 473-0743
2846 Hwy 14, Madrid, NM 87010

New Mexico has plenty of old saloons, but only a handful have the historic cred to be listed on the National Register of Historic Places, and the Legal Tender Saloon holds that honor. Being one of New Mexico’s oldest operating bars, it was built in 1881 and served passengers on the Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fe Railway. Legend has it that in the saloon’s first year, Billy the Kid visited after he escaped from the Lincoln County Jail.

The adobe and stone structure wears an Old West facade that looks straight out of a Hollywood movie set. During a major renovation in 2023, the saloon’s Victorian relics were polished and pampered. Now, the wood-and-brass Brunswick bar, ornate chandeliers, and gold-framed mirrors shine like an Instagram dream.

Even with its storied past on full display, the Legal Tender’s biggest draw is its short-but-thoughtful menu. Serious carnivores should start right in on something like the green chile burger, but I prefer to linger over the cocktail menu. My favorite drink is the Manhattan Project, a smoky rye-whisky cocktail served in a chemistry flask, which is a cheeky nod to New Mexico’s nuclear bomb history. Then, I move on to the House Smoked Pork Quesadilla with asadero cheese, chipotle sauce, and guacamole. My Santa Fe friend orders green chile stew (and that’s “chile” spelled the New Mexican way – always with an “e”). 

https://legaltenderlamy.com
(505) 466-1650
151 Old Lamy Trail, Lamy, NM 87540

A mainstay of downtown Santa Fe, La Plazuela’s dining room dates back to 1922, and the clock seems to have stopped right then. This airy, light-filled atrium in the heart of La Fonda on the Plaza is decorated with folk art-painted glass windows, ficus trees, a wrought-iron chandelier, and a Spanish-style fountain. The space has such a timeless elegance that it seems like blasphemy to pull out your cell phone.

La Plazuela’s menu is an encyclopedia of New Mexico’s most iconic dishes. Although you can’t go wrong with almost any order, a few dishes stand out. The tortilla soup has a flavorful broth brimming with chicken, avocado, cheese, and tortilla strips, while the carne asada tampiqueña is remarkably tender. Chile rellenos made with Hatch green chiles are dunked in a smoky red sauce with just the right amount of heat.

I can never resist ordering the tableside guacamole, either. I know my way around an avocado, but La Plazuela’s servers perform a riveting sleight-of-hand with the knobby green fruit. Seconds after wheeling out their cart, they cut, mash, and mix in roasted garlic, diced tomato, diced jalapeño, lime, cilantro, onion, and salt. The guacamole show is accomplished with photo-worthy flair, and the result tastes better than anything I can make at home.

https://lafondasantafe.com/la-plazuela/
(505) 995-2334
100 E San Francisco St, Santa Fe, NM 87501

Stepping into The Shed feels like visiting your cool aunt’s house (if your cool aunt lived in Santa Fe). With its warren of small rooms, vibrantly colored rafters, low doorways, and a courtyard lit by twinkling lights, every aspect of this café — especially its cherished family recipes — oozes with Southwestern vibes.

Located steps from Santa Fe Plaza, The Shed’s adobe hacienda in Prince Patio dates to 1692, when Spanish colonists reclaimed Santa Fe as their own. The Carswell family has owned the restaurant since 1953, and the third generation upholds their grandparents’ hallowed culinary wisdom: They buy their chiles straight from the farm and grind them on the premises. 

Garlic bread is served with every meal, which is convenient for dunking into sauces and stews. My favorite order is the richly satisfying green chile stew, loaded with tender pork and potatoes, but the posole is a close second. The pueblo-style soup is made with hunks of nixtamal (corn that is soaked in lime until it becomes what Americans call hominy), lean pork, and coarse red chile. My New Mexican friends order any dish made with soft, blue corn tortillas, but their hands-down favorite is tacos loaded rim to rim with green chile turkey sausage, cheddar, and onion. We always share an order or two of calabacitas, a zesty mix of squash, zucchini, onion, and chile.

https://sfshed.com
(505) 982-9030
113 ½ E Palace Ave, Santa Fe, NM 87501

Every year on Good Friday, the hamlet of Chimayó fills with 30,000 faithful pilgrims who arrive on foot after a long, dusty walk from towns far afield. Their finish line? A small plot of dirt at the El Santuario de Chimayó, which is said to have miraculous healing properties. The rest of the year, the small rural village is mostly empty except for shoppers seeking the colorful blankets made by Chimayó weavers.

Pilgrims, browsers, and foodies find common ground at Rancho de Chimayó, a pastoral hacienda owned by the Jaramillo family since the early 1700s. Diners sit in one of several small rooms or on the back patio and savor the Jaramillo family’s prized recipes, including sopaipilla relleno, a puffed-up, fried bread that’s stuffed with beef or chicken, beans, and Spanish rice and then smothered in red or green chile sauce.

Entrées come in epic proportions, so if you aren’t famished, order an unstuffed sopaipilla and pair it with green chile stew or carne adovada (tender pork marinated in red chile). I prefer the sopaipilla as a sweet side dish; it’s served with locally grown honey to pour on top. When you’re finished eating, browse the take-home treats in the hacienda’s gift shop. In December, you’ll find bags of cinnamon-dusted biscochitos, New Mexico’s state cookie, alongside shelves full of red chile sauce, piñon coffee beans, and blue corn pancake mix.

https://www.ranchodechimayo.com
(505) 351-4444
300 Juan Medina Rd, Chimayó, NM 87522

The Original Owl Bar and Café holds an unusual place in American history. In 1945, it was a hangout for the scientists who detonated the first atom bomb at New Mexico’s Trinity Site. Now run by fourth-generation owner Janice Argabright, the Owl Bar takes green chile very seriously, simmering its saucy concoction of chile, beef, and garlic for several hours each morning. Sometimes the chef uses Hatch chiles, sometimes Lemitar chiles (it’s worth noting that New Mexico is the only U.S. state where farmers can grow and sell Hatch chiles). New Mexicans have strong opinions about which type is hotter, smokier, or better, but to my palate, both are glorious.

With The Original Owl Bar and Café being considered among the best hole-in-the-wall burger spots in the state, customers often order the signature Owl Burger, which is a cheeseburger that’s jam-packed with roasted green chile. Still, I’m occasionally willing to forego it so I can eat an entire serving of green chile cheese fries. They’re the ideal comfort food: gooey, melty cheese atop freshly fried potatoes, with a ladle of green chile sauce and a zippy touch of salt. 

When you visit, ask Argabright to tell you about her owl knick-knacks, and walk around and examine the dollar bills and business cards pinned to the walls. At the end of each year, she donates all the cash to charity.

https://sanantonioowl.com
(575) 835-9946
77 US Hwy 380, San Antonio, NM 87832

Only a few generations ago, the local pharmacy was the place where you could buy almost any sundries you needed and finish your shopping trip with lunch or a milkshake at the on-site diner counter. These hybrid drugstore-cafés aren’t as common anymore, but you’ll find a popular one in Albuquerque. The tradition lives on at Duran Central Pharmacy, where customers gaily nosh on chile-soaked enchiladas, carne adovada, and other Land of Enchantment favorites.

Pick up your prescriptions if you wish, but plenty of people come here just to sit on a barstool and watch the cooks prepare thick, hand-rolled tortillas. They’re made the traditional way on a comal (a griddle), handled by people who know how to wield a rolling pin. Walk within 50 feet of the kitchen, and the aroma of hot-off-the-griddle tortillas nearly bowls you over.

The pharmacy has been serving food since the 1960s, so you can expect mastery of almost every classic New Mexican dish. My Albuquerque friends always order a Frito pie. This old-timey classic is exactly what it sounds like: Fritos corn chips, beef or chicken, beans, chile, and cheese. I get the huevos rancheros (which are different from chilaquiles, by the way), consisting of two over-easy eggs perched atop cheesy potatoes and beans, swimming in a divine chile sauce. Unlike in most huevos rancheros recipes, the tortillas are not buried underneath; rather, they’re served alongside so you can fully appreciate their brilliance.

https://duransrx.com
(505) 247-4141
1815 Central Ave NW, Albuquerque, NM 87104

During Route 66’s mid-20th-century heyday, the town of Tucumcari had 2,000 motels and plenty of eateries. When La Cita opened in 1940, south-of-the-border cuisine was not common across the United States. Thousands of drivers got their first taste of Mexican food right under La Cita’s kitschy neon sign.

Like other towns along Route 66, Tucumcari faced hard times after the interstate highways were completed in the 1980s. Motorists preferred the faster, more efficient roads, and traffic along Route 66 dropped off. Motels and diners were suddenly empty and forced to close. La Cita was one of the few that survived, and now there’s absolutely no way to miss it. The bright yellow building is topped with a giant sombrero.

The kitchen serves dependable, friendly New Mexican food, choosing to forego the fancy stuff and cook the basics with integrity. Sizzling fajitas, saucy enchiladas, and stuffed chile rellenos are the front-line players here. Carne adovada (marinated pork in red chile with potatoes and beans) may be the best order, but you can’t go wrong with the stuffed sopaipillas, either.

https://www.lacitanm.com
(575) 461-7866
820 S 1st St, Tucumcari, NM 88401

Seven miles from Silver City, The Buckhorn Saloon and Opera House is an 1863 structure that opened near the end of the Civil War and served the booming mining town of Pinos Altos. Workers built walls 18 inches thick to help protect patrons in case Apache warriors attacked. Conflicts occurred frequently because the tribe saw the miners as destroyers of their homeland.

During the boom years, the area’s mines yielded $8 million worth of gold, silver, copper, lead, and zinc, but after the boom turned to bust, most residents moved away. The Buckhorn survived, and today it’s a storied watering hole and hotspot for buffalo burgers, prime rib, and hand-cut ribeye steaks. The saloon’s green chile stew is as good as you’ll find anywhere. In true Southwestern style, it goes down like a smooth whiskey after a hard day in the saddle.

If you love Wild West Americana, you’ll love this saloon. Its humble exterior is slowly fading under the New Mexican sun, but the interior is a visual banquet of vintage Western décor. There’s an antique cash register, solid-wood bar, ornate cast-iron stove, stone-hearth fireplace, taxidermy animal heads, mannequin “madam,” and best of all, a quirky opera room decked out with second-floor boxes and dangling chandeliers. Show up on a weekend and you’ll probably hear a guitarist strumming tunes on the red-velvet-curtained stage.

https://www.buckhornpinosaltos.com
(575) 538-9911
32 Main St, Pinos Altos, NM 88053

Midway between Las Cruces and El Paso, the rural farming community of La Mesa has only about 500 residents and a cult-favorite gastronomic landmark. Housed for more than a century in the Benavides’ family home, Chope’s Bar and Cafe has garnered legions of fans and a nod from the James Beard Foundation. In 2024, chef Josefina Garcilazo was named a James Beard semi-finalist for “Best Chef: Southwest.” Garcilazo has cooked at Chope’s for more than 40 years.

The Benavides family settled in La Mesa long before New Mexico became a state. In the early 1900s, they converted their home’s front room into a dining area where local farmers could enjoy a meal of enchiladas. The third and fourth generations have kept the tradition going with mouthwatering red and green enchiladas. The tortillas are rolled, not stacked, and filled with cheese instead of meat.

When my friends and I learned that Chope’s serves about 800 chiles rellenos every week, we made a pilgrimage. The green chiles grown in the Mesilla Valley are harvested in the fall, but Chope’s roasts them to store and use year-round. The chiles are stuffed with cheese, dipped in flour and egg whites, and crisply fried to accent their glory. On the plate, they’re delicately brushed with cheese and sauce, but they’re never drowning in it. Every plate is served like a love letter to family and community.

https://www.facebook.com/chopesbar/
(575) 233-3420
16145 S Hwy 28, La Mesa, NM 88044