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Sean Richards didn’t intend to open a biscuit restaurant. His plan for Queen City Café was wide-ranging — breakfast, lunch and dinner — and built around simple, seasonal wood-fired fare, including rôtisserie chickens and whole-roasted cauliflower.
But almost as soon as he fired up the 10-by-12-foot oven in the former Myer’s Bagels spot on Pine Street, Richards’ biscuits became a thing. In the month since opening, he and his team have baked up to 150 per day in cast-iron pans, rotating around the oven’s hot spots. As the neighboring outdoor Burlington Farmers Market returns for the season this weekend, he expects that number could grow to 500 fluffy, flaky, perfectly fired rounds on a busy Saturday.
“It’s a terrible business idea to cook biscuits in a wood oven,” Richards joked. “It’s the hardest thing ever to get right.”
Complicated as the setup may be, he and his team are nailing it. Richards, 41, grew up in Fair Haven but spent a good chunk of his early career cooking in Tennessee, both in Knoxville and at Blackberry Farm in the Great Smoky Mountains. He knows his way around a biscuit. And for now, they’ve become Queen City Café’s main focus, whether sandwiching eggs and wood-fired bacon for breakfast or mopping up hearty chicken soup at lunch.
The change is partly because they’re so popular, he said, and partly because his initial schedule was unsustainable. The café’s grand opening was April 4, just in time for the April 8 eclipse. Richards went all in on breakfast, lunch and dinner, pulling a long shift from 6 a.m. to 10 p.m. each day.
“I worked myself almost to death,” he said.
The chef — whose previous gigs range from cooking on the road for touring musicians to running several high-profile kitchens in Vermont, including Prohibition Pig, ArtsRiot, Philo Ridge Farm and the Inn at Round Barn Farm — had to temporarily step away from his brand-new restaurant. Friends and family took over: His mom worked the register, his dad did dishes, his brother learned how to make biscuits, and his 70-year-old neighbor waited tables.
Barge Canal Market owners Adelle Lawrence and Jeremy Smith, the latter of whom is Richards’ childhood friend, kept things running and “made me not come here for four days,” Richards said. “It was driving me crazy, but it’s what needed to happen, and I’m the luckiest person in the world.”
With a more manageable schedule and a more robust staff, Richards is back on track. He was fortunate — and a little surprised, he said — to find a team of cooks who have wood-oven experience. The temperature needs to hover around 450 degrees to bake the biscuits and cook chickens, but it gets much hotter near the central steel beam. Managing it and moving cast-iron pans full of biscuits to the right spots “takes a lot of training,” he said.
Most of those pans are from Tennessee, too. Richards started a collection while he worked down there, taking regular trips to the Lodge Cast Iron outlet near Dollywood, singer Dolly Parton’s theme park. To keep up with biscuit production, he added cast-iron sheet pans to the more than two dozen skillets he already had.
The Orleans family, who own the building, have dubbed 377 Pine Street the Coal Collective — a nod to its history as Citizens Coal Company in the early 1900s. It’s now a hub for all things fun and delicious in the South End, including the Pinery’s seasonal beer garden and the South End Get Down block party, which returns on Friday, May 17.
“That’s why I wanted this space — to build my life around this part of town,” said Richards, who lives half a mile away.
Queen City Café has photos of the buildings’ past on its walls, adding to the stately library-like setting conceived by Barge Canal’s Lawrence and Smith. An overstuffed leather couch and chairs, spacious tables, lots of outlets, and Wi-Fi make the café a great spot to linger over work or catch up with friends.
Unfortunately, I was in a rush when I stopped for breakfast last week, having underestimated the construction on Pine Street. But the smell of bacon cooking in the wood oven calmed me as soon as I walked in. I ordered the vegan breakfast sandwich ($7, plus $2 for vegan sausage), though ironically I got it with regular egg and cheese on the advice of a friend, who said the fully vegan version she tried could use a little fat. I ate it in a meeting, so engrossed in the biscuit’s soft flakes that I may now have a writing assignment I don’t know about.
Armed with a little bit of Crisco and a recipe he developed for nondairy buttermilk, Richards could fool the biggest butter lovers among us. It wasn’t just a good vegan biscuit — it was a good biscuit.
While Queen City serves breakfast until 2 p.m., the biscuits also shine in the lunch menu’s chicken and biscuits ($12). Richards called the creamy, flavor-packed stew “an old-school Vermont thing that church ladies in Fair Haven used to cook,” though the café’s version is “gussied up a little bit.”
Whichever meal you go for, Queen City’s menu blends old-school Vermont dishes with the chef’s southern influence and almost sneaky touches, such as eggs fried in roasted garlic oil, and fingerling potatoes tossed with ramps on the pickup-only dinner menu that relaunched over the weekend (available Thursday and Friday, 4 to 7 p.m.).
The result is comforting, simple-seeming fare that’s lighter and more complicated than it appears — bacon-and-cheese-laden biscuits aside.
Crime
A Vermont postal worker was cited and suspended for allegedly throwing away mail that was supposed to be delivered to other people, according to police.
Natasha Morisseau, 34, of North Troy, was cited on nine counts of petty larceny and five counts of unlawful mischief, Vermont State Police said in a statement. She works as a mail carrier for the town’s United States Postal Service (USPS) office.
Officers were first alerted to the discarded mail on the afternoon of Jan. 23, according to police. Upon finding the mail in a dumpster on Elm Street in North Troy, they determined that none of it was for that address.
Police identified Morisseau as a person of interest and learned that she was a postal employee. They confirmed that she had regularly been throwing away a small amount of mail under her care since at least October 2025, according to the statement.
After searching the dumpster and Morisseau’s mail vehicle, officers found opened and unopened packages, along with several holiday cards, one of which contained money. Morisseau was later cited Feb. 14 and is due to appear March 17 in Vermont Superior Court, police said.
Since Jan. 23, Morisseau has been suspended by USPS, and all recovered mail has been given back to them for delivery, according to the statement. The case has been forwarded to the USPS’ Inspector General for further review.
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On a typical day, some of the 20 stealth fighter jets based in South Burlington, Vt., take off from tiny Burlington International Airport for training runs near the northern border. In recent months, they’ve flown much farther afield.
The Vermont Air National Guard’s 158th Fighter Wing was deployed in December to the Caribbean, where it took part in the US campaign to capture Venezuelan President Nicolás Maduro. Shortly thereafter, the squadron joined a military buildup in and around the Middle East to prepare for US and Israeli airstrikes against Iran.
Though both deployments had been widely reported, the military remained mum about the whereabouts of Vermont’s F-35A Lightning II jets. Even Governor Phil Scott, technically the commander of the Vermont Guard, said he only knew what he’d read in the news, given that US military leaders were directing the missions.
On Monday, General Dan Caine, chairman of the Joint Chiefs of Staff, confirmed the deployments at a Pentagon press conference about the war on Iran. Caine praised National Guard members from Vermont, Wisconsin, and elsewhere.
“In the case of the Vermont Air National Guard and the 158th Fighter Wing, they were mobilized for Operation Absolute Resolve,” Caine said, referring to the Venezuela campaign. “And then were tasked to take their F-35As across the Atlantic instead of going home, to be prepared to support this operation” in the Middle East.
Much remains unknown about the Vermont Guard’s recent missions, including the precise role they played in Venezuela and Iran, where the jets are currently based, and how long they’ll remain.
The Guard did not immediately respond to requests for comment., Its recently elected leader, General Henry “Hank” Harder, said in a statement that the force was “proud of the dedicated and professional service of our Airmen” and pledged to support their families in the meantime.
“We will continue to carry out our commitment to these Vermont Service Members until, and long after, they return from this mission,” Harder said.
Vermont’s three-member congressional delegation, meanwhile, has praised Vermont Guard members for their service in Venezuela but has criticized President Trump’s campaigns there and in Iran, particularly absent congressional authorization.
“The people of our country, no matter what their political persuasion, do not want endless war,” said Senator Bernie Sanders, an independent, echoing similar remarks from Senator Peter Welch and Representative Becca Balint, both Democrats. “We must not allow Trump to force us into another senseless war. No war with Iran.”
Paul Heintz can be reached at paul.heintz@globe.com. Follow him on X @paulheintz.
Tuesday is town meeting day in Vermont. Municipalities in New England and elsewhere are increasingly grappling with major national and international issues at the local level.
JOSEPH PREZIOSO/Getty Images
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JOSEPH PREZIOSO/Getty Images
If you haven’t lived in certain New England towns, it can be hard to fathom their centuries-old direct democracy-style Town Meetings, where everyday residents vote on mundane town business such as funding for schools, snow plows and road repairs.
These days, voters are also being asked to weigh in on national and international issues, for example, demanding the de-funding of ICE, and condemning “the unprovoked attack and start of an illegal and immoral war against Iran.” It’s all fueling a separate – and fierce– debate on what towns ought to be debating.
“When you have people sleepwalking into an authoritarian regime, it’s up to us to sound the alarm,” insists Dan Dewalt, an activist in Newfane, Vermont, one of several communities where residents scrambled to draft a resolution against the Iran war in time for their annual Town Meeting on Tuesday.
Local resolutions are a uniquely effective tactic, activists and experts say, and they’re being used increasingly around New England and beyond, especially as national politics have become so polarized.
“People feel isolated, helpless and hopeless. And when you hear about other people who are just like you taking a stand and representing something that you believe, that gives you not only hope, but it gives you power,” said Dewalt.
Several other Vermont towns will be considering resolutions Tuesday calling for the removal of the president and vice president “for crimes against the U.S. Constitution,” while many others will vote on a pledge to ” to end all support of Israel’s apartheid policies, settler colonialism, and military occupation and aggression.”
A similar divestment resolution passed 46 -15 in Newfane last year, following hours of heated argument over the plight of Palestinians, the security of Israelis, the “inflammatory” language of the resolution – and whether such problems half-a-world away even belong on the agenda of the tiny town of just about 1,650.
“It’s a Town Meeting for town issues,” Newfane resident Walter Hagadorn declared at a recent Select Board meeting, where residents pressed board members to block any future resolutions not directly related to town business.
“You shouldn’t be subject to hours and hours of people virtue signaling” and trying to “hijack Town Meeting,” Hagadorn said.
Others agreed, suggesting activists host a debate on their issues at another time and place, or stage a rally or protest instead.
But Select Board member Katy Johnson-Aplin pushed back, saying that would not have the same impact.
“It doesn’t work the same way,” Johnson-Aplin said. It’s only when the issue is formally taken up at a Town Meeting that “it goes in the newspaper and it’s recorded that the town of Newfane has agreed to have this conversation.”
University of Pennsylvania political science professor Daniel Hopkins has been watching the growing movement of local communities taking a stand on issues far beyond town lines.
“This is a trend we’re seeing increasingly across the 50 states and in a variety of ways but I think it has taken on a new and potentially more concerning edge,” Hopkins said. “I worry that we are in an attention-grabbing, sensation-rewarding media environment in which the kinds of issues that engage us at a national level may further polarize states and localities and make it harder for them to build meaningful coalitions on other issues.”
Indeed, in Newfane, the resolution regarding Israel became so divisive that some residents decided not to even come to last year’s Town Meeting, according to Select Board vice-chair Marion Dowling.
In Burlington, where a similar resolution was proposed, City Council President Ben Traverse says things got so heated, he and his family were getting harassing phone calls and even death threats. Burlington city councilors voted in January to block the question from going to a popular vote.Vermont has a history of “big issue” resolutions, from the push for a Nuclear Arms Freeze in the 1980’s, to calls to ban genetically modified foods in 2003. Dewalt, the Newfane activist, was behind several of them, including calls to impeach then-president George W. Bush in 2006, which got him invited to talk about it on network TV shows, and quoted in The New York Times.
“I can guarantee you if I stood up on my soap box and made a declaration of the exact same wording, I wouldn’t have had anybody asking me questions about it, he said. “We’re not pie-in-the-sky here about the power of our Newfane Town Meetings, but our actions have consistently had an impact.”
But opponents say activists overstate the impact of their resolutions, and their victory. They say it’s disingenuous, for example, to claim the town of Newfane supported the resolution against Israel, when the winning majority of 46 people was less than 3% of town residents.
“I feel like they’re using the town as a vehicle for their personal messages and that bothers me,” says Newfane resident Cris White. “It’s so junior high.”
Traverse, the Burlington City Council president, also takes issue with what he calls the “inflammatory” language of that resolution.
“The question, as presented, approaches this issue in a one-sided and leading way,” Traverse says.
In Vermont, any registered voter can get a resolution on the Town Meeting agenda by collecting signatures from 5% of their town’s voters. While elected city or town officials have the authority to allow or block the resolution, there is no process in place to vet or edit language.
Traverse says it would behoove city leaders and voters to require an official review to ensure that language is fair and neutral, just as many states do with ballot questions. Traverse says he’s not opposed to contentious, big issue resolutions being put to local voters, but the language must be clear and even-handed.
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