Rhode Island
To seal the deal, here’s where to eat your next power lunch in Rhode Island – The Boston Globe
The sweating began nearly immediately. Where on earth should we go? At the time, I was new to the Globe. Prior to working here, I was hardly making any money and there was little thing called a global pandemic that didn’t allow me to start tasting around just yet. I was in unknown territory.
Like many, I played it safe and chose The Capital Grille. Sure, it’s a chain restaurant, but the one in Providence is the original that was founded by Edward P. “Ned” Grace in 1990. I ordered the steak frites — something I usually would only order for dinner. But this was a power lunch.
Power lunches are exactly that — a show of power. They are a break in the action of your work day, where in certain situations it might be acceptable to have a martini. Plenty of great restaurants that once hosted many power lunches before the pandemic have not yet made a comeback, and are still only opening for dinner service. But as we continue to return to the office, you’ll need to know where to meet for a business meal.
Here’s where to eat your next power lunch in Rhode Island.
Perfect occasion: When you just want to eat something delicious and don’t care about the hoopla of steakhouses or fancy dining rooms.
If you’re having a meeting with folks who are self-proclaimed “foodies,” who are impressed less by luxurious dining rooms and more about what’s actually on their plates, then you need to go to Nicks on Broadway. Long-run by chef Derek Wagner, they serve a great menu of comfort foods using ingredients from local farms. Split the mushroom crostini with mushroom-boursin, sautéed mushrooms, and herbs piled on slices of grilled bread. And then order your own plates: polenta with local veggies and wilted greens, chargrilled pork with tallow roasted purple potatoes and madeira jus, or grilled tuna with sautéed veggies and lemon-thyme vinaigrette. Finish the meal off with a warm peach crumble. 500 Broadway, Providence, R.I., nicksonbroadway.com.
Perfect occasion: You’re looking for a classic steakhouse, you may have wine with lunch, and you contemplated whether forgoing a tie today was acceptable.
Known for regulars like Judge Judy, 22 Bowen’s is a traditional steakhouse that also serves giant king crab legs, shellfish towers with caviar, and Maine-style lobster to pair with their wine list. For lunch, grab their French onion burger, which was the winner of this past year’s Newport “Burger Bender” competition where an Australian wagyu patty is smothered in French onion jam, crispy onion straws, and melted havarti and gruyere — and then all layered on a toasted onion roll smothered in roasted garlic aioli. If you need something less messy, get the flat iron steak salad or pan-seared halibut with Calabrian chili. 22 Bowen’s Wharf, Newport, R.I., 22bowens.com.
Perfect occasion: You’re an actual elected official, lobbyist, or CEO. Or you’re meeting one.
Grace, the founder, had the idea to open a high-end steakhouse that would be an ideal spot for the political and business elite in Providence. Now with multiple locations across the US, all I can say is Grace is a visionary. And when I went to lunch at the chain’s flagship location on a cold Wednesday around noon back in 2021, I saw all the movers and shakers. In fact, it’s where I’ve historically seen the president of the Rhode Island Senate the most, and a free lunch at this location was the subject of a recent scandal involving the governor, a lobbyist, and a development firm. Red meat is the obvious choice here, but ordering the sushi-grade seared sesame tuna with sambal vinaigrette is a power move of its own. 10 Memorial Blvd., Suite 101, Providence, R.I., thecapitalgrille.com.
Perfect occasion: You’re looking for an edgier spot compared to the more traditional options.
There’s something to be said about the bonding activity you could have with your colleagues or meeting guests when you’re presented with a pizza on a slab along with a pair of kitchen shears. It’s interactive for a familiar dish, and these pies are layered with local ingredients sourced from mostly Rhode Island farms. The thin crust crackles along with the activities at the buzzing bar. Order an Aperol spritz while you’re at it. 22 Washington Square, Newport, R.I., barcino.com/newport.
Perfect occasion: You’re an artist, go antiquing on the weekends, and are looking for a uniquely beautiful spot.
Located in Providence’s Jewelry District, CAV stands for “cocktails, antiques, victuals,” where its ground-floor space on Imperial Place represents a bohemian artsy gallery of vintage finds. The restaurant first opened in 1989, and since then, all the art, rugs, pillows, and certain chandeliers used to decorate the space are for sale. Grab the walnut encrusted brie with brandied apricots for the table to share before going your separate ways for lunch — whether that be with a wrap, sandwich, or a pasta dish. If you’re gluten free, they have rice noodles for a solid substitute. 14 Imperial Place, Providence, R.I., cavrestaurant.com.
Perfect occasion: You’re due back in court in less than an hour.
Hemenway’s has been around for years, and has long been known as the place where all the wheeling and dealing occurs. They have an actual power lunch menu during the week, where you can order an appetizer and entree for just $30 that also includes a takeaway cup of coffee or their own cold brew, along with freshly baked cookies. It’s also in an ideal location surrounded by courthouses, universities, and other nearby offices. Translation: If you’re a lawyer, you’ll be able to eat here and be back in front of the judge in the nick of time. 121 South Main St., Providence, R.I., hemenwaysrestaurant.com.
Perfect occasion: A more casual meeting for lunch, meeting nonprofit leaders, believe in social-impact brands, or need caffeine refills throughout the meal.
Inside the Providence Public Library is CHOP (which stands for the Culinary Hub of Providence), a new all-day café that’s backed by the Jacques Pépin Foundation. It’s a great workforce development program, serving as a culinary education and training hub creating jobs, while also serving good food that highlights local producers. It’s more of a casual set up than the other spots on this list: You go and order at a counter and there’s a mix of communal tables and more intimate nooks. During the week, most of the people at CHOP are either having lunch with a co-worker, hosting a more relaxed business meeting, or doing work on their laptop with a cup of coffee (they serve beans from Providence-based New Harvest Coffee Roasters). There’s music over the speakers, but it’s soft enough for you to have an in-depth conversation. Be sure to try the honey tamari shiitake, which is pulled shiitake mushrooms marinated with a tamari-honey glaze served over heirloom rice, pickled onions, and slices of avocado. 211 Washington St., Providence, R.I., culinaryhubpvd.com.
Perfect occasion: You’re looking for a working brunch in downtown.
If you’re looking for a casual, but delicious brunch, or a lunch that focuses on ingredients from local producers and farms, head to Rogue Island inside the Arcade, America’s oldest mall. It has been open for a decade this year in downtown, which is no easy feat, and has a cozy atmosphere with brick walls and tinned ceilings. Head there for brunch: cajun lobster Benedicts on a griddled English muffin with fried shallots and garlic; biscuits and gravy; and French toast sticks with dehydrated banana chips and candied pecans and sea salt caramel. Or for something that sounds more like lunch, try the “The Bear” sandwich with beer-braised short rib, giardiniera aioli, and sharp cheddar on a griddled sesame bun, for instance. If you’re drinking, Rogue Island has one of the most extensive beer lists available for lunch, where plenty of Rhode Island brews are available. 65 Weybosset St. #108, Providence, R.I., rogueislandgroup.com.
Perfect occasion: When you want to be seen, breaking out your fur coat for the season, are hoping to have a three-martini lunch.
Downtown is historically the center of work in Providence. If you travel to the financial district, or around capital center, you have some options. If you’re strictly looking for a place to go and be seen, Bellini’s is a good bet. It’s inside The Beatrice, the swanky boutique hotel on Westminster Street owned by former mayor Joe Paolino. If he knows your face, he might stop at your table for a chat, but Bellini’s is bright and luxurious. Their lunch-size pastas are pushing $30 a plate, but you could opt for a $20 salad (the farro salad with avocado, zucchini, and asparagus is good with the bread basket) and martini or two. 50 Westminster St., Providence, R.I., bellinirestaurant.com/providence.
This story first appeared in The Food Club, a free weekly email newsletter about Rhode Island food and dining. Already a member of the club? Check your inbox for more news, recipes, and features in the latest newsletter. Not a member yet? If you’d like to receive it via e-mail each Thursday, you can sign up here.
Alexa Gagosz can be reached at alexa.gagosz@globe.com. Follow her @alexagagosz and on Instagram @AlexaGagosz.