Cafe Alma, a new Portuguese restaurant and café, is opening in East Providence – The Boston Globe

The restaurant occupies the former Silva’s Seafood Market space, which has been closed for years, and had later become a Brazilian takeout restaurant. The building was first constructed in 1920, and after a full renovation, the only original elements are the decades-old tin ceilings, which are now painted dark blue.

The owner, chef Kevin Matos, and his family have long owned Matos Bakery in Pawtucket and previously owned JC’s Butcher Shop in West Warwick, where he specialized in sausages that were hand cut, seasoned, and smoked in house. Matos Bakery, which has been in business for more than two decades, started after Matos’s parents immigrated to the US from Portugal. They worked in factories before opening the bakery. Matos remembers sleeping on bags of flour at the bakery at night as a kid while they worked.

Matos attended Johnson & Wales University and went on to work in other restaurants, including Nicks on Broadway for a short stint. He staged at Aldrea, a Michelin-starred Portuguese restaurant in New York City, and worked at a French fine dining establishment in Boston.

When Cafe Alma opens, it’ll be split between a café and the dining room with about 30 seats.

Music will be part of the experience, said Matos. Think: low-volume sets on the weekends – so diners can still have a conversation – with occasional piano or violin performances.

The menu won’t be strictly traditional. “This will be New England Portuguese,” said Matos, who said the menu reflects how Portuguese cooking has evolved in Rhode Island and southern Massachusetts, two hubs for Portuguese populations.

The opening menu will include smoked chourico wings; bacalhau, a Portuguese term for codfish that has been dried and salted; smoked piri piri quail; polvo a plancha (grilled octopus) with molho cru (a fish sauce) or cebolada com pimentos; and duck fat confit potatoes. He’s building out a bread program, and plans to serve pizzas with a Portuguese twist. They’ll be in the middle of a Neapolitan and New Haven style pie, cooking in 5 minutes, with a spicy tomato sauce.

Eventually, the restaurant will also double as a gallery space, featuring rotating work from local artists. Artists won’t be charged to show their work, said Matos, and customers will be able to purchase their work right at the restaurant.

Matos also has a series of long-term ideas to turn the Portuguese corridor and Warren Avenue into a cultural destination. He’s planning community events and block parties with neighboring businesses, quarterly wine clubs, ticketed chef collaborations that will be run by his general manager Billy Panzella (formerly of Dune Brothers), and a chef’s tasting menu booked weeks in advance, where each guest receives a one-of-a-kind experience. Expanding outside of East Providence isn’t off the table either.

“We’ve got to focus here and push this place to succeed,” said Matos. “And then I definitely want to open our own place in Boston or New York.”

The cafe will have an array of espresso drinks. The bar program is still being ironed out, but it will lean heavily into Portuguese wine, particularly the lesser-seen bottles, and feature smoked cocktails, and a Portuguese-influenced Old Fashioned using aged brandy.

One wine, which is aged in clay, reminds him of when he was a kid and his father would drink from clay cups.

“I remember tasting that clay, and then I drank that wine and I was literally just teleported back when I was a little kid,” said Matos. Both of his parents have moved back to Portugal, but have been in Rhode Island, anticipating his opening. “That’s what I love about food. It just transports you.”

This story first appeared in The Food Club, a free weekly email newsletter about Rhode Island food and dining. Already a member of the club? Check your inbox for more news, recipes, and features in the latest newsletter. Not a member yet? If you’d like to receive it via e-mail each Thursday, you can sign up here.

Alexa Gagosz can be reached at alexa.gagosz@globe.com. Follow her @alexagagosz and on Instagram @AlexaGagosz.