Navigating the culinary world of extra virgin olive oil (often referred to as EVOO) can be a bit daunting due to the wide variety filling shelves. But it doesn’t have to be, with a little education on choosing the right one for your budget and cooking needs.
Chef Carlo Cimino of New Kensington knows his way around extra virgin olive oil.
Cimino, who’s Italian, said EVOO is his go-to when cooking at home and as a chef at Knead Community Cafe in Downtown New Kensington.
“It’s the most flavorful and is a little higher in calories,” Cimino said.
Joseph R. Profaci, executive director of the North American Olive Oil Association, dispelled the notion that cooking with EVOO at a high heat isn’t recommended.
“All olive oil can withstand heat,” Profaci explained. “You can use olive oil for everything from dipping and salad dressings to baking, frying, grilling and everywhere in between.”
Natural EVOO
The nonprofit North American Olive Oil Association formed in 1989 with a focus on educating consumers on the different grades of olive oil and their respective taste, versatility, qualities and health benefits.
Information provided from NAOOA representative Jordan Andrews details how EVOO is made: Oils are naturally extracted from olive fruit without heat or chemicals. EVOO is the result of crushing the olive fruit and separating the pulp from the oil. It is considered the highest grade of olive oil. More flavorful with varying notes and intensity than refined olive oil. it typically has a smoke point of 350 to 410 degrees Fahrenheit.
Modern-day EVOO production looks more like this: Olives are harvested, washed and crushed into a paste with hammers, not stone wheels, and the paste is mixed carefully and the oil is separated using a centrifuge.
So “pressed” is a buzzword in the industry, but most modern EVOO is not actually pressed between mats, as was done in the past, according to NAOOA.
When shopping, look for the words “extra virgin olive oil,” and you can be assured you’re buying the highest grade of olive oil.
It’s non-GMO (no genetically modified olive trees) and has virtually no trans fats. But it has high levels of oleic acid and high levels of naturally occurring antioxidants and phenols.
Think of it as a good fat, as recognized in a recent study by the Harvard School of Public Health, which found that replacing butter and margarine with olive oil resulted in a 15% lower risk of cardiovascular disease overall and, specifically, a 21% lower risk of coronary artery disease.
Oakmont Olive Oil Company co-owner Sharon Carroll holds a bottle of Laconiko Ultra Premium Extra Virgin Olive Oil from Greece ($50 and up per bottle). (Joyce Hanz | TribLive)
Polyphenols (plant-based compounds) are unique to olive oil and may protect against a bevy of chronic diseases such as cancer, dementia and diabetes.
“Research has shown that cooking with EVOO actually increases the health benefits of our food. The healthy phenols and antioxidants found in EVOO are transferred to the food being cooked, making it more nutritious,” Profaci said. “Olive oil also helps food it’s cooking release its own bioactive compounds and improves their absorption.”
Oakmont Olive Oil Company co-owner Sharon Carroll sells a lot of imported high-phenolic EVOO made in small batches on a family farm in Greece.
“What the phenols do is reduce the inflammation in your body and help to protect your heart,” Carroll said.
Theresa Piatek used to suffer from allergies. She decided to start eating clean about eight years ago after experiencing foods on vacation in different European countries.
Piatek shops at Oakmont Olive Oil Company and has traded margarine or whatever oil was “on sale” for EVOO.
“It can be confusing to choose among the olive oils,” Piatek said. “You can’t always tell what’s in the olive oil by reading the labels.”
Piatek’s advice to shoppers?
“There’s not a lot of additives if you buy the right stuff. If you buy the mixed olive oil, you don’t really know what you’re getting,” Piatek said. “I’ve adjusted to EVOO and I use it on everything.”
Oakmont Olive Oil Company co-owner Sharon Carroll prepares an extra virgin olive oil appetizer in Oakmont. (Joyce Hanz | TribLive)
EVOO is sold at a higher price point than refined olive oil.
Carroll stressed consumers should know the country source and check the harvest and sell-by dates on the bottle. She recommends buying in glass containers.
“Don’t store your EVOO in plastic for any extended period of time, because the plastic could leach into it,” Carroll recommended.
EVOO is best stored in a cool, dark location and out of sunlight and should be consumed within six months of opening.
Natalie Henkel owns and operates Nanny GOAT Olive Shop in North Huntingdon.
EVOO sold at Nanny GOAT Olive Shop in North Huntingdon, Westmoreland County. (Courtesy of Natalie Henkel)
Nanny GOAT sells EVOO from an olive farm in southern Spain, which produces 54% of the world’s EVOO annually, according to Henkel.
She advises shoppers to research the source of their EVOO.
“I’m learning that 50% of Americans have an olive oil in their home but it’s not always EVOO, which is the highest quality,” Henkel said.
Nanny GOAT’s EVOO is sold at $22 to $23 per bottle.
“Transparency and freshness matter,” Henkel said. “The Tuscan Herb EVOO is the top seller. It elevates anything savory and pairs well with pizza, pasta and bread.”
Chef’s choice
Alta Via Fox Chapel executive chef Joe Perino with Raineri Extra Virgin Olive Oil at the Italian restaurant and bar located in Fox Chapel Plaza in O’Hara. (Joyce Hanz | TribLive)
At Alta Via in Fox Chapel, executive chef Joe Perino makes a fresh heirloom tomato salad served with buffalo mozzarella, aged balsamic, fresh basil, salt flakes and a generous splash of EVOO.
Perino was raised around EVOO and it’s no different at work where he cooks with Raineri extra virgin olive oil, unfiltered and cold-pressed, from Northern Italy.
“This is the EVOO we use mainly for finishing,” Perino said. “This is heavy on the palate and really full-flavored. I don’t want to make anything that hides the flavor of the food and the olive oil gives it a good balance between acidity and salt, adds a little more flavor and brings everything together.”
Perino’s Italian heritage leads him to prefer Italian extra virgin olive oil.
“Do a little research before you go — the different regions, Italy, California, Greece and Spain — but you can try a lot, buy the smaller bottles and use them until you find what you like,” Perino said.
