New York

36 Hours on the North Fork, Long Island

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4 p.m.
Cheers to women and wine history

On Route 25, one of two main roads brimming with vineyards, bucolic vistas and farm stands, look for the big red barn and sign for Poppy & Rose in Aquebogue. After more than 15 years as a winemaker for Bedell and Macari, Kelly Koch recently opened her own boutique winery, which shares a tasting room with Woodside Orchards. Sip bright, peachy varietals like the sauvignon blanc ($13) — or have a non-alcoholic apple cider ($4) — best enjoyed on the patio with a warm cider doughnut ($2). It’s tempting to try more pours and nibbles nearby, such as at Terra Vite and the Dimon Estate, both newcomers, or the 40-year-old Paumanok Vineyards, but history is calling on the North Road (Route 48). At Borghese Vineyard, recline on a blue Adirondack chair next to Long Island’s first commercial vines and raise a glass of sparkling rosé ($15) to Louisa and Alex Hargrave, who started a movement on this hallowed ground in 1973.

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