Going with the flow in New Hampshire’s Lakes Region – The Boston Globe

As the famous saying goes: “The best laid plans of mice and men often go awry.” And as all frequent travelers know: Things never go according to plan.

We thought our timing was perfect for an early summer family getaway to Lake Winnipesaukee in New Hampshire’s Lakes Region. We had three kids in tow, ages 11, 8, and 6, who were unexpectedly out of school one week earlier than most other school districts in New England. What a coup! We’d have the Lakes Region practically to ourselves before the summer crowds and family vacationers arrived.

Located about two hours from Boston, just south of the White Mountains, this picturesque region is dotted with more than 270 bodies of water and surrounded by rolling hills and rural farmlands. Lake Winnipesaukee is its hub and centerpiece. From bustling Meredith on the west side of the lake to quaint Wolfeboro on the eastern edge, there are plenty of activities for a great family vacation around this sparkly blue, 72-square-acre lake, affectionately known as Lake Winni. We thought of picnics on the beach, nature walks, boat rides, maybe a visit to the giant Funspot arcade and a round of mini golf, and, of course, an uncrowded, unhurried visit to Weirs Beach and its lakefront boardwalk. We packed our swimsuits, swimming clogs, and hiking boots, and hit the road.

“Wow, there are a lot of motorcycles on the road,” the 11-year-old said from the backseat. “It’s so loud!” shouted the 6-year-old, as a large group of motorcyclists rumbled past us. Hmm. There were a lot of motorcyclists heading in the same direction that we were. Surprise! It was Laconia Motorcycle Week, the world’s oldest motorcycle rally, celebrating its 103rd anniversary. The eight-day event, centered around the Lakes Region, typically attracts up to 300,000 people. Well, this would change things.

The saving grace turned out to be our choice of lodging, The Steele Hill Resort in Sanbornton, a former dairy farm spread across 500 acres, overlooking Lake Winnisquam with distant views of Lake Winnipesaukee (summer starting room rates $220). Initially, we were a little wary of the location, a bit away from the center of Lake Winni action, about a 30-minute drive to Weirs Beach and the town of Meredith. But we were enticed by the resort’s ultra family-friendly amenities. First, were the accommodations, featuring modern two-bedroom suites, with full kitchens, separate living areas, in-room laundry facilities, and private balconies. Second, were the resort’s extensive facilities, including two outdoor pools with hot tubs and large poolside lounging areas, and two indoor pools including one 30,000-square-foot complex with a large pool and water slide, kiddie pools, and hot tubs. There were playgrounds, outdoor grills and picnic areas, a nine-hole golf course, a fishing pond, laser tag, sports courts, bike rentals, walking trails, and a slew of daily activities that included nature scavenger hunts, arts and crafts, ice cream socials, s’mores, and more. There were also a restaurant and lounge on-site. The fact that the resort was tucked away from the most popular centers turned out to be a lucky choice given that it was Bike Week. It became our welcome oasis during our three-night, four-day getaway.

The days worked into an easy cadence. We’d have breakfast in the suite, spend a couple hours at the pool, and head out for a daily excursion, returning in the afternoon for more pool time, games, and dinner. We deviated one day for breakfast at the quirky and old-fashioned Heritage Farm Pancake House in Winnisquam. It’s a rustic, working sugarhouse and petting farm with pancakes and their own wood-fired maple syrup, fresh eggs, bacon, and sausage served family-style from large platters.

Of course, we went to Weirs Beach early one morning. The Main Street, closed to cars during Bike Week, was clogged with hundreds of motorcycles, and lined with vendors selling T-shirts and biker gear. It made for great people watching, and interesting comments from the kids. Out of the mouths of babes: “There are a lot of people with a lot of tattoos!” “And a lot of old men with beards!” We grabbed fresh squeezed lemonades and walked to the beach, which was blissfully uncrowded.

Bike Week or not, Weirs Beach is known for its honky-tonk, party atmosphere, filled with souvenir shops and casual bars and restaurants. It has a scenic boardwalk with views of Lake Winnipesaukee and is the starting point for a one-hour train ride along Paugus Bay to Lakeport and back. This is also where you can board the historic M/S Mount Washington for a narrated cruise of Lake Winni. It’s a nice way to get on the lake, with lots of history and local lore thrown in.

There was mini-golf (Pirate’s Cove is the best option with courses in Winnisquam and Meredith), a hike up West Rattlesnake Mountain, an easy 1.7-mile or so out and back trek with great views from the top, and a visit to Funspot, holding the Guinness Book of Records title as the largest arcade in the world by number of games, more than 600 at last count. We all had a blast.

“Can we go to the pool?” the kids pleaded on our last day, as we were checking out. We did, and we also stopped for one last vacation activity, a visit to Squam Lakes Natural Science Center, which we thought might be a nice contrast to the arcade, mini-golf, and Weirs Beach activities. We took the self-guided tour along the Live Animal Exhibit Trail, an easy ¾-mile walk through meadows, forests, and marshlands, with hands-on exhibits about local flora and fauna, and views of rescued and rehabilitated black bears, bobcats, river otters, raptors, and more. And it was blissfully quiet and uncrowded.

Our timing wasn’t perfect, but sometimes you just gotta go with the flow and fall into a little luck (looking at you Steele Hill.)

“Look! More motorcycles!” the kids screamed from the back seat. Yep, they were all heading north while we traveled south, heading home. For more information, visit www.lakesregion.org.

Diane Bair and Pamela Wright can be reached at bairwright@gmail.com