New Hampshire
A glorious day on Mount Kearsarge North in N.H.
Located on the outskirts of North Conway, New Hampshire, Mount Kearsarge North, elevation 3,268 feet, is an excellent intermediate mountain hike. Ledges on the upper western slope offer wonderful views of surrounding mountains and the distinctive fire tower at the top provides phenomenal panoramic vistas.
Originally called Mount Pequawket, Mount Kearsarge has an interesting history. Like several New Hampshire peaks, the summit was the site of a small hotel in the 19th century. A bridle path was constructed in 1845 to transport guests by horse. The hotel reputedly “blew off the mountain” and was rebuilt, only to blow away a second time. In 1909, it was replaced by one of the earliest fire towers in New Hampshire. The Mount Pequawket Fire Tower was operated by the Forest Service until 1960. The sturdy structure has withstood over a century of adverse weather conditions and is open to the public.
My friend, Kenny DeCoster, and I are both coping with knee problems and have been considering a moderate mountain hike to test our limitations. After reviewing the various options, we decided on Mount Kearsarge, a six-mile roundtrip trek. Much of the trail is on the former bridle path so there is minimal steep rock scrambling, an activity that is particularly challenging for our ailing knees. We chose a mid-January day for the outing.
We met at a rest area on Route 16 in North Conway on a clear, sunny day with seasonably moderate temperatures. Since parking is limited at the trailhead, we left Kenny’s truck in the rest area parking lot and drove a short distance to the trailhead on Hurricane Road in North Conway. Only two parking spaces remained when we arrived.
Gusty winds were forecasted for the summit, so we packed plenty of protective clothing. However, if confronted with unusually destructive winds, retreat was our plan. The surface at the trailhead was a combination of hard-packed snow and ice so we started out with micro-spikes and wore them throughout the trek.
Some buildings were visible on the right as we hiked easily on a wide trail in a predominantly hardwood forest. After perhaps a half-mile, the path narrowed and steepened. The trail in this area has been severely damaged by erosion and sections were free of snow and ice. Since the bare ground was frozen, we decided to continue wearing micro-spikes.
The surrounding forest gradually transitioned from hardwood to mixed conifer and the gradient intensified as we persisted upward. And, the snow depth began to increase.
Soon after, we arrived at a lengthy stretch of icy open ledges. The ledges provided an opportunity to enjoy partial views of the Saco River Valley and the barren summits of the Moat Range in the west.
At the top of the ledges, we entered a dense spruce growth on a narrow twisting path. This section of the trail rises steadily as it wraps around the steep northwest side of the upper reaches of the mountain. We encountered pockets of hard ice in this area that required careful maneuvering.
Angling northeasterly, we slowly progressed over rough terrain in stunted mountain growth and emerged onto exposed summit ledges with marvelous views facing south. Contrary to the ominous forecast, the winds were almost nonexistent. We were amazed at our good fortune as conditions were nothing short of glorious.
We proceeded towards the prominent fire tower that could be seen above mountain scrub. Two hikers were leaving the impressive structure when we arrived. After removing our micro spikes, we climbed the stairway to the glass-encased enclosure. The 360-degree views from the tower and the exterior deck were phenomenal. We settled in for a leisurely lunch break surrounded by wondrous vistas.
Caution was the watchword for our return. The icy areas on the ledges were particularly hazardous and, since descending causes greater stress on knees and hips, we slowed to a deliberate pace in steep sections.
Mount Kearsarge is a popular trek and we met about a dozen hikers during our descent. Most importantly, we experienced minimal knee discomfit during the outing. More winter hikes appear to be in our futures.
My mountain guidebook, Mountains for Mortals – New England provides detailed directions, a map, and precise orienteering data for this hike. And, my latest book, Maine Al Fresco: The Fifty Finest Outdoor Adventures in Maine narrates exciting climbs on the nine best mountain hikes in Maine.
Ron Chase resides in Topsham. His latest book, “Maine Al Fresco: The Fifty Finest Outdoor Adventures in Maine” is available at northcountrypress.com/maine-al-fresco or in bookstores and through online retailers. His previous books are “The Great Mars Hill Bank Robbery” and “Mountains for Mortals — New England.” Visit his website at ronchaseoutdoors.com or he can be reached at ronchaseoutdoors@comcast.net.