Wisconsin
Small Bites: The unassailable allure of the Wisconsin cheese hut
It’s time to reimagine your road snack game.
This is our newsletter-first column, Microtones. It runs on the site on Fridays, but you can get it in your inbox on Thursdays by signing up for our email newsletter.
“Small Bites” is about exploring the broader world of food and drink in Madison through approachable and specific experiences.
Summer in the Upper Midwest is equal parts sitting by a lake and spending time in a car to get to said lake. Where I grew up in Minnesota, we had three massive suburban lakes within a 10-minute drive. But don’t assume those lakes are good enough. There are better lakes if you head north (or northeast, into the part of Wisconsin vacationland annexed by Twin Cities Money sometime in the early 1990s). My family would drive up to a Minnesotan vacation spot near where my mom grew up, just outside of Moorhead, and the best we could hope for was some Doritos or a skinny beef stick from the gas station. Pickings were slim, or rather, Slim Jim.
It wasn’t until I was older and heading to college in Chicago that I got to experience the Wisconsin cheese hut. Rising in the distance along the various truckstops of I-94, just cresting over the green tree tops, I could see the red lettering on yellow background perfectly: CHEESE. Inside, the store was jam-packed with various cheddars and goudas, shrink-wrapped or waxed, all proudly in a line to represent America’s Dairy State (California has not—and will not—ever claim the cultural title). Aside from the cheeses, most cheese huts have a wide variety of meat sticks, jerkies, and sausages, and the experience feels more like a grocery store than a road trip fuel-up destination. Especially with all the stacked cases of New Glarus beer.
But I’m old now. College was 20 years ago. A bag of chips eaten at the wrong time of day in a moving vehicle might ruin my stomach. Don’t get me wrong: a vacuum-sealed bag of cheese curds and some landjäger aren’t health foods. But they are real food. And that can make a difference for an aging gastrointestinal tract. So I say this: it’s time to stop treating the roadside cheese hut as a tourist stop or cultural artifact and embrace them as a quick way to grab tasty snacks.
Back in December, my partner and I drove down to Miami to visit family. And deep in the middle of Georgia, we finally saw the much-lauded cult-favorite gas station/rest stop/compound known as Buc-ee’s. It was about three-to-four times the size of the Love’s across the interstate with hundreds of gas pumps and a carnival-sized convenience store. Inside, you could find a central hub where hot sandwiches were pumped out at rapid speed (including some head-turners like the hot pastrami). Deeper in, a weary traveler would find themselves lost in aisle after aisle of packaged snacks. A veritable snack haven. A snacker’s paradise.
We left with some fudge (wait, why?), Beaver Nuggets (just caramel puffcorn), and habañero mango hot sauce (again, why?). All three items had the Buc-ee’s logo on them, but I think it’s clear that Buc-ee’s doesn’t have a facility producing all these foodstuffs with original recipes. It may be a one-stop snack adventure, but I struggled to find anything unique or culturally relevant inside that Buc-ee’s that might suggest I was in a specific region of the United States. Banality, thy name is Buc-ee’s.
Flip that against a roadside cheese hut, and you’ll see what I’m talking about. You might find some award-winning Sartori Cheese varieties like Merlot BellaVitano or MonteAmoré Cheddar. Or you can even pop into Carr Valley’s own retail location just off of I-94 in Mauston. The company’s cheesemaker, Sid Cook, has won “more national and international awards than any other cheesemaker in North America,” as Carr Valley’s website puts it. There are other incredible smaller-but-world-class creameries like Uplands (home of the second-most decorated cheese in US history) and Saxon that have incredible renown and are commonly spotted at these cheese huts. And whatever dairy’s cheese curds you may find while browsing Ehlenbach’s Cheese Chalet in DeForest, it’s important to remember that fresh packed curds are hard to find outside of dairy-rich regions. I’m not suggesting that Wisconsinites take cheese curds for granted, but manna from heaven, if constantly falling out of the sky, is hard to value properly.
What’s a bag of jalapeño kettle chips when you can just peel and eat an entire summer sausage like a banana? Who has the power to judge you for holding a brick of Hook’s Two-Year Cheddar like a sandwich, taking bites out of the corner while you drive on to your destination? These roadside cheese huts are more than just supplies for eventually: they’re repositories for gustatory delight in the here and now. Forget stopping for a frozen custard: there’s a tub of Merkt’s and a bag of pretzels that are calling your name from Humbird Cheese in Tomah. Sure, you can get your fill of high-end cheese from the kind folks at Fromagination when you get home to Madison. But why not indulge in the good stuff while you’re on your way out to an adventure? There’s some really good string cheese out there that I’m sure you’ll want to dig into once you get past Stevens Point.
It’s no secret that Madison is becoming more and more developed everyday. New apartment buildings are needed to meet Madison’s current housing crisis, but they often come at the expense of unique restaurants and businesses. As Dane County continues to grow, more and more of the city will become steel and glass. Just know that when that starts to happen, you always can run away to a roadside cheese hut to dip back into a bit of Wisconsin’s Germanic and Nordic roots. What are you waiting for? Grab a half-pint of mozzarella balls and eat ‘em like a bag of popcorn. Sure can’t do that at any rest stop in Georgia.
Wisconsin
Wisconsin teen who killed prison guard in fistfight pleads guilty but claims mental illness
MADISON, Wis. — A Wisconsin teen who killed a prison guard during a fistfight pleaded guilty to homicide Friday but contends he doesn’t deserve prison time because he was mentally ill and not responsible for his actions.
Javarius Hurd, 17, entered a plea of guilty/not guilty by reason of mental disease or defect to one count of second-degree reckless homicide in connection with Corey Proulx’s death, online court records show. He also pleaded guilty to one count of battery by a prisoner. Prosecutors dropped a second battery count in exchange for the pleas.
The next step for Hurd will be a February trial in which jurors will determine whether he should be sentenced to prison or committed to a mental institution. Jurors will be asked to determine whether Hurd was indeed suffering from a mental disease at the time of the fight and, if so, whether the mental disease impaired his ability to act within the law.
“Javarius entered into a plea agreement that partially resolves the case involving the sad and tragic death of (Proulx),” Hurd’s attorney, Aaton Nelson, said in an email to The Associated Press. “Javarius, who has had a life filled with trauma and suffering, realizes that nothing will compensate the victims for their loss and suffering. We hope that this agreement will help all those suffering with their healing.”
According to court documents, Hurd was incarcerated at the Lincoln Hills-Copper Lakes School, the state’s youth prison in far northern Wisconsin, in June 2024.
He grew upset with a female counselor whom he felt was abusing her powers, threw soap at her and punched her. Hurd ran into the courtyard and Proulx followed to stop him. Hurd punched Proulx several times and Proulx fell, hit his head on the pavement and later died. Hurd was 16 at the time but was charged in adult court.
Another inmate at the youth prison, Rian Nyblom, pleaded guilty to two counts of being a party to battery in connection with the incident and was sentenced to five years in prison this past August.
According to prosecutors, Nyblom knew that Hurd was upset with the female counselor and wanted to splash her with conditioner and punch her. About 15 minutes before the fighting began, he got extra soap and conditioner from guards and secretly gave it to Hurd. Nyblom told investigators that he didn’t see Hurd attack the female counselor but watched as Hurd punched Proulx.
Lincoln Hills-Cooper Lake is Wisconsin’s only youth prison. The facility has been plagued by allegations of staff-on-inmate abuse, including excessive use of pepper spray, restraints and strip searches.
The American Civil Liberties Union filed a federal lawsuit in 2017 demanding changes at the prison. Then-Gov. Scott Walker’s administration settled the following year by agreeing to a consent decree that prohibited the use of mechanical restraints like handcuffs and the use of pepper spray.
Proulx’s death sparked calls from Republican lawmakers and from Lincoln Hills-Copper Lakes staff for more leeway in punishing incarcerated children, but Democratic Gov. Tony Evers rejected those calls, insisting conditions at the prison have been slowly improving. A court-appointed monitor assigned to oversee the prison’s progress reported this past October that the facility was fully compliant with the consent decree’s provisions for the first time.
Legislators have been trying to find a way to close the facility for years and replace with it with smaller regional prisons. Those prisons remain under construction, however, and Lincoln Hills-Copper Lake continues to operate.
Wisconsin
‘Play is the work of a child’: Wisconsin parents back bill that would double daily recess
MADISON, Wis. (WMTV) – A proposal at the state Capitol would require Wisconsin schools to increase daily recess time for students in kindergarten through sixth grade, with supporters saying more opportunities for unstructured play could improve focus, behavior and overall well-being.
Assembly Bill 810 would require public schools to provide 60 minutes of recess each school day for K-6 students, doubling the amount many schools currently offer. The bill has been referred to the Legislature’s education committee.
The bill’s author, State Rep. William Penterman of Hustisford, said the proposal is based on research showing physical activity supports learning and child development.
“Especially younger kids, like our elementary kids, it’s so important that they get moving throughout the day,” Penterman said. “We’re trying to get our kids to learn and develop mentally, emotionally, but also physically.”
Penterman emphasized the bill is not intended to extend the school day or reduce instructional time. Instead, he said schools could restructure existing schedules to include more frequent movement breaks.
“We’re not looking to expand the school day. Absolutely not,” Penterman said. “It’s already set. We’re going to leave it at that. It’s about increasing efficiencies.”
The proposal would give schools flexibility in how the time is scheduled, allowing recess to be broken into multiple shorter periods throughout the day.
“But 60 minutes of play a day — it could be three 20-minute recesses. It could be two 30-minute recesses,” Penterman said.
Parents in the Madison Metropolitan School District say concerns about limited recess became apparent once their children came home from school.
“I saw that we only had 30 minutes of recess at our school, and I felt like that wasn’t enough,” said Victoria Carey, a parent with a child in elementary school.
Carey said she initially assumed recess policies were determined by individual schools or districts, but later learned minimum requirements are set at the state level.
“So I looked into — is that our school’s policy? Is that our district’s policy?” Carey said. “And then I realized that it wasn’t either of those. Really, it was the state.”
Ally Grigg, another MMSD parent and former teacher, said a lack of movement during the school day can lead to challenges with emotional regulation and behavior at home.
“If that need is not being met at school, they come home, and my experience is my child frequently has meltdowns as soon as she gets home,” Grigg said. “A lot of times they have a lot of energy and they’re bouncing off the walls because they didn’t get that out during the day.”
Grigg and Carey are part of a parent-led advocacy effort ‘Say Yes to Recess’, pushing for increased recess time statewide. They say their goal is not to burden teachers or administrators, but to recognize play as a meaningful part of the learning process.
“They are great tinkerers, little scientists, as they’re referred to often,” Carey said. “And they do that through play. I think recess is a great opportunity for play to practice what they’re learning in the classroom and with each other.”
Carey said parents they’ve spoken with, including some educators, often share similar concerns, even if there are questions about how additional recess would fit into already packed schedules.
“Most of the reaction is very positive,” Carey said. “Everybody agrees that kids need recess. It’s really about finding the balance between instructional time and what kids need developmentally.”
Penterman said the bill was shaped after an earlier proposal focused on increasing overall physical activity faced pushback over concerns about unfunded mandates.
“So we kind of revamped it and looked at it,” he said. “What’s something we already have existing in place now that we can just expand?”
The Wisconsin Department of Public Instruction said it is in the process of analyzing the legislation and does not yet have an official position.
The bill is still early in the legislative process. Penterman said he hopes the proposal encourages broader discussion about how schools balance academic demands with students’ physical and mental health.
“Play is the work of a child,” Penterman said, quoting educator Maria Montessori. “And it’s so important to their development.”
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Wisconsin
Wisconsin DHS reaffirms childhood vaccine recommendations after CDC changes
MADISON, Wis. – The Wisconsin Department of Health Services on Thursday reaffirmed its recommended childhood vaccine schedule after recent changes at the federal level.
Wisconsin vaccine guidance
Local perspective:
On Monday, the U.S. Centers for Disease Control announced changes to its childhood vaccine schedule. The DHS said those modifications further stray “from alignment with America’s leading medical associations and organizations.”
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At this time, the DHS said it is not making changes to its vaccine recommendations – including no changes to Wisconsin’s school or child care vaccine recommendations.
The DHS said it continues to endorse the American Academy of Pediatrics schedule and has issued guidance to Wisconsin health care providers reaffirming that recommendation.
What they’re saying:
“The CDC’s new recommendations were based on a brief review of other countries’ practices and not based on data or evidence regarding disease risks to children in the United States,” DHS Secretary Kirsten Johnson said in a statement. “This upends our longstanding, evidence-based approach of protecting our children from the viruses that pose a risk in our country.
“Copying another country’s schedule without its health and social infrastructure will not produce the same health outcomes. It creates chaos and confusion and risks the health of Wisconsin’s youngest and most vulnerable citizens.”
Big picture view:
The U.S. Department of Health and Human Services said the CDC will continue to recommend that all children are immunized against 10 diseases for which there is international consensus, as well as chickenpox.
The updated schedule is in contrast to the CDC child and adolescent schedule at the end of 2024, which recommended 17 immunizations for all children. On the new schedule, vaccines – such as those for hepatitis A and B, meningitis, rotavirus and seasonal flu – are now more restricted. They are recommended only for those at high risk or after consultation with a health care provider.
What they’re saying:
“President Trump directed us to examine how other developed nations protect their children and to take action if they are doing better,” Health Secretary Robert F. Kennedy Jr. said. “After an exhaustive review of the evidence, we are aligning the U.S. childhood vaccine schedule with international consensus while strengthening transparency and informed consent. This decision protects children, respects families, and rebuilds trust in public health.”
The Source: The Wisconsin DHS released information about its childhood vaccine recommendations. Information about the CDC changes is from LiveNOW from FOX with contributions from The Associated Press.
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