Wisconsin
A Brandy Cocktail Saved A Wisconsin Supper Club From Becoming Condos
The Village Supper Club on Lake Delavan’s more than a century of operations almost shut down were it not for its Brandy Alexander cocktails.
These memorable ice cream drinks spurred Loretta and Allan Kaplan to save one of the longest, continuously operated supper clubs in the state. The historic property had initially been the dining lodge of Hall’s Park Resort when it opened in 1882. Over the years, it evolved into different restaurants and supper clubs, and as different owners took over, they expanded the building, a bit haphazardly at times, adding on to the as the space needs of the time dictated.
The Kaplans came every summer to enjoy life on the lake just a few doors down from the then named Swedish Village supper club. The couple had fond memories of taking their children out to dinner there, and when their children grew older, they still frequented the supper club. Most nights during the summer, they would head out after dinner and walk down along the lake to the supper club. “We used to come here late at night to get Brandy Alexanders as a dessert, and then we would dance on their small dance floor,” says Loretta.
In 2021, the beloved property went on sale. “My wife came home and told me ‘Hey, the Village is on the market,’” Allan recalls.
The couple immediately decided that they had to act – and act fast before a developer purchased the property and converted it into condos, which is what happened to another supper club on Lake Delavan. “This was always a restaurant, and it will always be a restaurant,” Allan says.
So, after purchasing the building, they hired DMAC Architecture and Interiors to bring the historic property into the 21st Century. Initially, they were just going to do a heavy remodel, but with the age of the building and some questionable additions, they decided that the best course of action was to keep the building’s footprint, save whatever they could, but create an updated space that highlighted the property’s best feature: the lake.
“We are a modern take on a supper cub with great food and drink but a casual and welcoming atmosphere,” says Robert Johnson, general manager.
The re-imagined Village Supper Club welcomes visitors with a grand, asymmetrical, outdoor fireplace, which is reminiscent of Frank Lloyd Wright’s Taliesin West, and the grand interior with its cathedral ceiling and warm wood tones is inspired by some of the grand Midwestern barns of the area.
“This is a legacy project,” says Dwayne MacEwen, principal at DMAC Architecture and Interiors. “This should be timeless. It’s elegant, but it’s not trying too hard.”
The redesign evokes nostalgia of the supper clubs of yesteryear while maintaining a modern sophistication. The expansive, A-frame structure sets the stage for a gorgeous vista of Lake Delavan, as a wall of windows opens out onto the lake, and the tables are set in almost a stadium seating arrangement so there’s not a bad seat in the house, as every table and booth offers equally stunning views. The Kaplans pushed to save all of the trees that dot the landscape, and an equally expansive deck opens out onto the lake. The deck overlooks a dock where visitors can actually dock their boats if they choose to arrive via water instead of streets.
“They did a phenomenal job,” says Doug Wexler, a local resident “This will be the supper club other supper clubs will be compared to.”
After visitors walk past the fireplace and into the restaurant, they are greeted by hand-crafted bookcases, which highlight the history of the building, and the shelves line the back wall, which boasts its own conversation area behind the bar.
The bar itself is a magnificent, gold cage suspended overhead, showcasing the brandy and whiskey offerings. The Brandy Alexander is, of course, a specialty drink, but like every good supper club, the Village serves up Wisconsin Old Fashioneds, made with brandy or whiskey, served with sweet or sour, with muddled Luxardo cherries and oranges.
Though Wisconsin Old Fashioneds are most popularly served brandy and sweet, meaning they are crafted with brandy and topped with sweet soda (like Sprite), the sour versions are crafted with honey syrup and house sour mix. “And I make each one with love,” says Becky Hoogland, bartender.