Lifestyle
So long, skinny jeans. See you in the next cycle
There is some reasoning behind the life and death of a fashion trend.
Image by Alicia Zheng/NPR
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Image by Alicia Zheng/NPR
There is some reasoning behind the life and death of a fashion trend.
Image by Alicia Zheng/NPR
When Moe Black was a teenager, you could wear only one style of pants.
“If you wore anything besides skinny jeans, you were, like, weird,” said Black, now a 29-year-old fashion content creator. At the time, skinny jeans had fashion and pop culture in a stretch-denim chokehold.
Black recalled taking style cues from the stars she saw on MTV and VH1, telling NPR she looked to bands like Green Day.
“A lot of these bands were anti-government, anti-war,” she said. “And I felt like the way that they dressed was such a symbol of what they believed.”
Her uniform: dyed hair in a side part, oversize graphic tee, checkerboard Vans and jeans so tight they looked painted on. But as ubiquitous as they once were, skinny jeans are out. And looser, 1990s-inspired styles are in.
So, what happened?
It’s not just pants that come and go. Everything from shoes to color palettes to entire aesthetics cycle in and out of style. And keeping up with it all can feel dizzying. But there is some logic to how it all works.
The life and death of a trend
The life of a trend starts with a trendsetter.
“It’s traditionally started with designers and the people that are making the clothes for us to purchase,” said Ashlyn Greer, CEO and founder of Fashivly, a personal styling company.
In the first year of the trend life cycle, a new style is invented — that could be by subcultures in music or art or by fashion designers experimenting with new shapes or drawing from the archives.
Model Shalom Harlow walks down the runway wearing fashion from the Marc Jacobs grunge-inspired collection for the Perry Ellis label in November 1992.
Thomas Iannaccone/WWD via Getty Images
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Thomas Iannaccone/WWD via Getty Images
Model Shalom Harlow walks down the runway wearing fashion from the Marc Jacobs grunge-inspired collection for the Perry Ellis label in November 1992.
Thomas Iannaccone/WWD via Getty Images
Take grunge, for example. In 1992, fashion designer Marc Jacobs released a collection for Perry Ellis paying homage to the alternative rock movement of the Pacific Northwest.
That collection put the style’s slouchy silhouettes and plaid flannels on the fashion map, Greer said.
“And then now all of a sudden, there’s a Vogue editorial about grunge dressing,” she said. “And now all these other people in mainstream culture start to adopt that.”
Media and early adopters of a trend — like celebrities, influencers or your fashionable friend — spread the trend to the masses. At this point, retailers scramble to produce the clothes consumers want.
Then, once enough people catch on to the trend, it’s not cool anymore.
Until the trend repeats, and what’s old feels new again.
Fashion imitates life
“Novelty is both the essence of fashion and its economic engine,” said fashion historian and journalist Kimberly Chrisman-Campbell. “It’s what keeps us buying clothes even when we have more clothes than we need.”
Yet novelty isn’t enough to explain what goes in and out of style, Chrisman-Campbell said. She theorizes the trends that catch on resonate in a deeper way.
Skinny jeans are on display in San Francisco in 2015.
Kimberly White/Getty Images for Levi’s
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Kimberly White/Getty Images for Levi’s
Skinny jeans are on display in San Francisco in 2015.
Kimberly White/Getty Images for Levi’s
“I think there has to be a different emotional, or economic, or perhaps just social factor there beyond ‘it looks good’ or ‘I want to be like X person in the media,’” she said.
Jesica Wagstaff is a fashion content creator and writes A Sunday Journal, a newsletter about fashion theory. She points to the quiet luxury trend as an example of how socioeconomic conditions influence what people want to wear.
Google searches for “quiet luxury” — the trend characterized by luxurious knits and high-quality, minimalist pieces — hit a peak in the spring of 2023. This was around the time that HBO dropped the fourth season of Succession and the internet was obsessed with decoding the wealthy aesthetics of the Roy family.
“And so we started to see people have quiet luxury hauls from fast-fashion brands in order to emulate the overall style that we saw from people who were shopping at incredibly expensive stores,” Wagstaff said.
Wagstaff thinks that this trend spoke to consumers because it signaled wealth and success at a time when people were feeling the economic impact of the COVID-19 pandemic.
Putting it all together
If you take all these factors into account — the life cycle of a trend, consumer psychology and the socioeconomic conditions of the day — you can begin to explain the big-pant revival.
A model wears a creation by Comme des Garçons Homme Plus during Men’s Fashion Week in Paris in 2016.
Patrick Kovarik/AFP via Getty Images
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Patrick Kovarik/AFP via Getty Images
A model wears a creation by Comme des Garçons Homme Plus during Men’s Fashion Week in Paris in 2016.
Patrick Kovarik/AFP via Getty Images
According to Fashivly’s Greer, skinny jeans hit peak popularity sometime in the 2010s, meaning the time was ripe for something new. And that’s exactly what was happening on runways. Greer points to loosening silhouettes in collections from the likes of Marc Jacobs, Comme des Garçons and others around 2016.
Then, Chrisman-Campbell theorizes, as the reign of skinny jeans came to an end, pandemic lockdowns accelerated the spread of wide pants. People stuck at home opted for comfort.
Of course, this is a tidy story, and Chrisman-Campbell points out that making sense of trends isn’t an exact science. But whether you’re watching runway shows from your laptop or don’t care about clothes much at all, it matters.
“Dress is a form of communication, and I think we neglect it at our peril because we are communicating to other people whether we mean to or not,” said Chrisman-Campbell.
And understanding that communication is essential, said Wagstaff.
“Then we can give ourselves a little bit more peace, grace and just flexibility to present ourselves in a more authentic way,” she said.
Lifestyle
Sunday Puzzle: Between the lines
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Last week’s challenge
Last week’s challenge comes from Joshua Green, of Columbia, Md. Think of a popular film franchise with many sequels. Hidden in consecutive letters inside its name is a place mentioned multiple times in the Bible. Replace that place with a single letter and you’ll name a Major League Baseball team. What franchise and team are these?
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Lifestyle
For Tory Burch, a 20-year fashion career is a sport driven by endurance, discipline and grit
Clarke wears Tory Burch multi screw heeled sandals and Gemini Link pendant necklaces.
This story is part of Image’s May Momentum issue, which looks at art as a sport and sport as an art.
It’s 2 p.m. on a quintessentially balmy Los Angeles afternoon when I spot fashion designer Tory Burch in the lobby of the iconic Beverly Hills Hotel. She’s wearing oversize sunglasses, a crisp collared shirt, an even crisper pleated navy skirt and leopard-print pumps. I start walking over to introduce myself, but a fan gets there first. This would happen several times during our meeting at the hotel — wherever Burch goes, a small flock of admirers form.
Burch is in town for the Fashion Trust U.S. Awards, where she was recognized with the designer of the year award. Ever since she took back creative control of her brand about six years ago, Tory Burch is back at the center of the American fashion zeitgeist. Compared to the resort-ready tunics and preppy Reva flats that embodied Tory 1.0 in the 2000s, Tory 2.0 has evolved into a “weirder,” more innovative version of itself. Think: a jersey dress with knotted ruching in an unexpected shade of green, or leather mules with an inverted heel that makes you look twice. While the Tory customer of the past felt neatly aligned with the country club aesthetic, the Tory customer today embodies a modern sensibility of polish and dynamism. You could easily imagine these clothes on a marketing exec at the office, a buyer at fashion week or an author on book tour.
There’s no doubt the “Tory-ssance” is in full swing. During New York Fashion Week, my TikTok page was flooded with behind-the-scenes clips of model it-girl Alex Consani getting ready for Tory Burch’s runway show. On the nouveau fashion blogs of Substack, women exchange styling ideas for the brand’s signature pierced mules. And on the streets of L.A. — from Sunset and Rodeo to Melrose and Wilshire — colorful Tory Burch logo sandals abound.
Clarke wears Tory Burch Mellow Mary Jane jellies, Gemini Link pendant necklace, and printed asymmetric viscose dress.
We sat down for tea at the Polo Lounge and talked about her design instincts, what women actually want to wear, freaky footwear and how a long career in fashion is its own kind of sport.
Viv Chen: Hi, Tory, it’s a pleasure to meet. Congratulations on receiving the designer of the year award from Fashion Trust U.S. this week. What does that kind of recognition mean to you at this point in your career?
Tory Burch: It’s a huge honor, and to be recognized by your peers is even more special. Being in that room and meeting some of the up-and-coming new designers, the creative energy was just palpable and super exciting to take in. I love what Tania [Fares] has built to support emerging designers.
VC: I heard you got to dress Pamela Anderson.
TB: Yeah, she presented the award to me. Pamela and I met through our boys, so it was very special because we have a friendship and I admire her so much.
VC: This award feels like another marker of the “Tory-ssance.” There’s been such a compelling story over the last few years about how you’ve reinvented the brand to feel fresh and relevant again. How do you see that evolution?
Clarke wears Tory Burch beaded heel sandals and cotton jacquard shirtdress.
TB: We’re just starting in many ways. When I first started the company 20 years ago, it was very much a creative journey. As time went on, I was also running the company and became the CEO. After a certain point, managing both was not doable. About six years ago — it was probably the one silver lining out of COVID — I had the opportunity to reset and give up my role as CEO. Now, 100% of my time is dedicated to the creative process. It’s something we’re still very much in the process of — not at the peak. I still have a lot I want to do.
VC: You redesigned your Rodeo Drive store last year. What is it about the L.A. market that influenced the design decisions you made?
TB: First of all, it’s really funny because a lot of people think I’m from L.A. I love the casual elegance of L.A. I’m very outdoorsy, I’m very sporty, so there’s a lot of things that I relate to from a design standpoint. And I’ve always been obsessed with interior design. It wasn’t as much about L.A., but it was more about using the light here. We opened up the top of the store with skylights, so it had shapes that the front of the store brought in with the light.
VC: You seem to have unlocked what women actually want to wear. Tell me more about your design perspective.
TB: I like an ease and a realness to what we do, but balanced with creativity and innovation. So it’s taking things that are classic in spirit, but then giving a strangeness to it. Like something where you look closer and see an interesting fabric or different stitching. I like tension.
Melissa wears Tory Burch pierced strappy heel sandals and printed silk dress.
Clarke wears Tory Burch Hank ballet sneakers.
VC: I want to talk about footwear, because you’ve designed some major hits. The Reva flat was such an iconic shoe in the 2000s. And now, your pierced mules are fueling the contemporary rise in “freaky footwear.” What is it about footwear that is such a powerful category for you?
TB: I’ve always loved footwear. When I started with the pierced [mule], I was looking at toe rings. I thought, how do you incorporate the concept of that into a mule? It was like an exercise in architecture. Ever since I’ve taken back the reins of the creative process, I’ve focused on how footwear makes your leg look and how it feels. The Reva is interesting because it was meant to be a foldable shoe to throw in your bag, but also something you could walk in all day.
VC: What shoes are you wearing today?
TB: I’m wearing the pierced pump.
VC: How do movement and women in motion factor into how you design? I’m thinking about Tory Sport, which I think was ahead of the curve of the athleisure boom.
TB: We started in 2015. It was me and a very small team starting with what I felt like was missing in the market — which was great-looking clothing that was not restrictive, but also technical. Something you could move in from morning until evening. I also saw the prevalence of streetwear and the way women were dressing at the time.
VC: Culturally, when we talk about fashion designers, we focus on skills like creativity and artistry. Whereas in the language of sports, we talk about endurance, discipline and grit. Do you view your 20-plus year career in fashion as its own kind of sport?
Melissa wears Tory Burch jelly heel flip-flops.
TB: I do. It is a sport, and there’s a physicality to it as well. I think some people question whether I still go to the office. I don’t think I’ve had lunch in the last 21 years. I can be at the office for 10-hour days, which is like an athlete where it’s about discipline and grit and endurance.
VC: Athletes always get asked about the unglamorous work behind the wins. What’s your equivalent of daily reps?
TB: The mental capacity you need to have. Sometimes I make 4,000 decisions in a day. I touch every product. But I’m also lucky in that my days never really look the same either, because I do so many different parts of the business — whether it’s store design, marketing or the actual design of different categories.
VC: Beyond your brand, what is the impact you are trying to make with the Tory Burch Foundation?
TB: We launched it in 2009 to support women entrepreneurs through mentoring, capital and community. We’ve committed to adding a billion dollars to the economy by 2030 through our fellows and entrepreneurs. We’re having a breakfast in three weeks honoring Anna Wintour. It’s our second fundraiser — last year it was Martha Stewart.
VC: What is the long game for Tory Burch?
TB: I don’t know that I’d sit and think about the long game as much as I think about trying to be present. I’m always interested in the zeitgeist and how we fit into that, but not necessarily to be on trend. I just am someone that has that curiosity to push things forward.
Viv Chen is a Bay Area–based fashion writer, and founder of the Molehill newsletter.
Photography Jennelle Fong
Styling Bin X. Nguyen
Talent Melissa Baltierrez, Clarke Brown
Nails Lila Robles
Videography D.J. Theriot
Lighting Assistant Phillip Acevedo
Lifestyle
Bulgarian banger ‘Bangaranga’ bags country its 1st Eurovision win
Dara and her song “Bangaranga” skyrocketed Bulgaria to first place at the 70th Eurovision Song Contest
Helmut Fohringer/APA/AFP via Getty Images
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Helmut Fohringer/APA/AFP via Getty Images
Bulgaria has won the 70th Eurovision Song Contest — the country’s first-ever win.
The achievement surprised many because Bulgaria wasn’t among the favorites to win in 2026. But with its catchy “Welcome to the riot!” refrain and bouncy vibe, performer Dara’s banging anthem “Bangaranga” bested 24 other nations for the glittery global musical crown at the finals on Saturday in Vienna, Austria.
Israel came in second, as it did last year. Ten competitors were eliminated from the original group of 35 in the semi-finals earlier this week.
In his appraisal of his 10 favorite Eurovision 2026 songs, NPR critic Glen Weldon called “Bangaranga” an “insanely catchy bop” and praised its “deep, profound, abiding grooviness.”
“Oh my god!” Dara yelled, as she accepted the Crystal Microphone, the event’s glass trophy, from last year’s winner, JJ of Austria.
As with other global cultural events, such as the Venice Biennale currently underway in Italy, the glittery annual songfest is intended as a display of goodwill and togetherness between nations. “In a world often divided, we stand united by music,” said host Michael Ostrowski at the conclusion of this year’s event.
Last year’s contest, held in Basel, Switzerland, saw record viewership, reaching 166 million viewers across 37 markets.
Israel prepared for ‘boos’
Eurovision has long strived to prioritize artistry over political antagonism. However, as with the Biennale, Eurovision 2026 found itself at the center of protests related to the war in Gaza.
Five countries — Iceland, Ireland, the Netherlands, Slovenia and Spain — pulled out between September and December 2025 in protest over event organizer European Broadcasting Union’s decision to allow Israel to participate amid the ongoing war in Gaza.
In this year’s finals, Israeli singer Noam Bettan performed the romantic breakup song “Michelle” in French, Hebrew and English. Unlike in the semifinal, when the artist sang over chants of “stop the genocide,” Bettan was not booed — at least audibly. The artist told The Times of Israel last month he had been practicing performing in front of hecklers.
There were both anti- and pro-Israel demonstrations in Vienna this week.
Pro-Palestinian protests at the last two contests called for Israel to be disbarred from Eurovision over its role in the conflict, as well as allegations it attempted to manipulate voting to favor its entries. The European Broadcasting Union changed its voting rules in response. Among other requirements, contestants and broadcasters are prohibited from taking part in promotional campaigns by third parties including governments. Countries outside of Europe, such as Israel, participate in Eurovision because eligibility is based on European Broadcasting Union membership, not necessarily geographics.
A double standard?
Although Israel’s participation is the biggest cause of dissent in 2026, the country avoided being banned from the event.
That was not the case with Russia, which was disbarred indefinitely from participating in the contest soon after launching its full-scale invasion of Ukraine in 2022.
European Broadcasting Union deputy director general Jean Philip De Tender defended his organization’s decision to allow Israel to perform, the European edition of Politico reported ahead of the contest’s final, because Israel’s public broadcaster KAN, the body behind its entry, is independent, whereas Russia’s state broadcaster, VGTRK, is run by the Russian government.
In a social media post on Friday, Spanish Prime Minister Pedro Sánchez decried the European Broadcasting Union for its “double standard.”
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