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How did the universe become universal in fashion? A new collection taps into infinity

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How did the universe become universal in fashion? A new collection taps into infinity

Mya wears Vassia Kostara bra, and pieces from Tiffany & Co.’s Tiffany Céleste collection.

The L.A. universe doesn’t start or end in Beverly Hills. Depending on who you talk to, it doesn’t even cross its path. But on a recent warm afternoon, a celestial kingdom existed inside a crisp room at the Beverly Estate, where the Tiffany & Co.’s new Tiffany Céleste collection was on display (and scenes of “The Bodyguard” and “The Godfather” were once filmed). The sun, moon and stars are reliable motifs that fashion has turned to again and again over decades. A universal inspiration in its truest sense. Tiffany & Co.’s new high jewelry offering is one of the latest collections to follow in this vein. Inspired by the designs of late, iconic Tiffany jewelry designer Jean Schlumberger, and his preoccupation with the cosmos, the collection is designer Nathalie Verdeille’s second with the house.

Tiffany Céleste is punctuated by six chapters: Wings, Arrow, Constellation, Iconic Star, Ray of Light and Apollo — all visual or spiritual themes that for Tiffany & Co. evoke the endlessness of the world around us. These are the kinds of pieces that shift the energy of a room. I stand in front of the Iconic Star suite — clusters of blue zircons, diamonds, aquamarines and mother of pearl designed to look like a smattering of stars in a constellation — and I trip on my words. I stare so long that it doesn’t feel real, so deeply that it feels as if I might fall into the jewels. I hover over them, careful not to breathe so that no precious stone gets fogged up. While touching them is not technically illegal, it feels as though it might as well be. Who am I to reach for a star?

Two models pose by the pool at the Beverly Estate.

Mya wears a full look by Ellaè Lisquè, By Anabelle shoes and the Tiffany Céleste collection. Eldric wears LABO.ART top and Weisheng Paris pants.

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 An 18 karat yellow gold with a red spinel of over 5 carats and diamonds shown on a hand grazing water by the pool.

A ring from Tiffany Céleste’s Ray of Light chapter in platinum and 18 karat yellow gold with a red spinel of over 5 carats and diamonds.

A model with curly hair poses in a yellow suit by the pool, wearing a large diamond necklace and ring.

Mya wears a necklace from the Tiffany Céleste Ray of Light chapter in platinum and 18 karat yellow gold with red spinels of over 48 total carats, a pink spinel of over four carats and diamonds.

Design inspired by worlds beyond our full comprehension is a tried and true tradish. Remember galaxy print leggings? A piece so ubiquitous in the early 2010s that it’s now part of our collective villain origin story. Looking back on the Tumblr archives, it seems destined, written in the stars, if you will. They weren’t always so tragically haunted, a reminder of how desperately we wanted to seem different, out there, or even worse, quirky. Because once, that ravenous desire for uniqueness — seen in our skin-tight lycra with a cartoonish depiction of what looks like the Milky Way, worn with studded Jeffrey Campbell Litas for good measure — was a vehicle powerful enough to launch someone into transcendence. Think of Christopher Kane’s 2011 resort collection, the galaxy print legging’s high-fashion cousin. Kane described his inspiration behind the collection, which utilized the motif of a nebula seen from the Hubble telescope, as “the idea of explosive outwards expansion,” Vogue reported back then. Chanel, Alexander McQueen, Gucci, Rodarte have all presented collections that take, in literal and symbolic representations, from the universe.

The Tiffany Céleste Wings suite, which symbolizes “flight and fantasy” as per the brand, utilizes layers of diamonds and metal jutting out in contrasting directions, resulting in pieces that look like mini angelic creatures. One of the signature pieces of the suite, the platinum and 18-karat yellow gold necklace with a 20-carat diamond at its center and diamond accents throughout, was worn by J.Lo on the Met Gala carpet earlier this year, paired with a sheer Schiaparelli gown. An angel from the block (the question still remains: which block?). At the Beverly Estate, the Ray of Light suite, worn with a yellow skirt suit by a model lounging by that famous turquoise pool, serves as a portal for the light to come in. The red spinel on one of the necklaces — which also converts into a tiara — acts as its own version of the black and white spiral patterns used by hypnotists, affixing the eyes.

Two models pose with their heads resting together, featuring a large diamond and spinel bracelet.

Eldric wears a top by Tako Mekvabidze and pants LABO.ART. Mya wears Gaurav Gupta top, Gallery Dept. pants and By Anabelle shoes, along with a bracelet from Tiffany Céleste’s Ray of Light chapter in platinum and 18 karat yellow gold with pink spinels of over 10 total carats and diamonds.

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Why is this a thing? Why did Alessandro Michele put spaceships on a dress in his fall 2017 ready-to-wear collection for Gucci? Or why did Schlumberger himself reference the brilliance of sun rays in his archival pieces or the all-powerful star in his old design sketches? There are ideas that feel too big to not try to distill in something like jewelry, art or fashion. The galaxy, the stars and their dust are a part of us, or we are a part of them, according to the outdated earnest memes on the internet. There is something inherently mysterious about celestial bodies, in such a way that it becomes scary if you think about it for too long. (I am of the belief that it’s none of my business.) But the truth is, we’d like nothing more than to be beamed up. We look to the universe for guidance, for understanding, for connection. See the way we reflexively ask about someone’s Big Three when the conversation needs resuscitation on a whack date, or the way we hang onto the every word of L.A. celesbian astrologer Chani Nicholas.

We’d rather turn something intangible like the stars, and all the mythology we’ve assigned to them since the literal beginning of time, into something so tangible that we can literally hold it in our hands. A piece in the Tiffany Céleste collection, part of the Constellation suite, is a boulder of a ring in platinum and 18-karat yellow gold. Over 25 carats of diamonds surround the band, and an unenhanced pink sapphire sits at its center. The sapphire, the color of ripe dragon fruit, is cut in such a way that it appears to contain multitudes. How do you digest infinity? Turn it into a one-of-one ring you only wear on special occasions.

LOS ANGELES - MAY 1, 2024: For an Image story on celestial style and a new Tiffany collection. (Angella Choe / For The Times)
Mya wears pieces from the Tiffany Céleste collection, including earrings in platinum and 18 karat yellow gold with red spinels of over 7 total carats, pink spinels of over 4 total carats and diamonds.

Production: Mere Studios
Models: Eldric Barnes, Mya West
Makeup: Leslie Castillo
Hair: Adrian Arredondo
Production assistant: Mark Millner
Photography assistant: Kabir Affonso
Styling assistant: Neko Baker

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Terry Tempest Williams on why women with big ideas get labeled ‘crazy’ : Wild Card with Rachel Martin

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Terry Tempest Williams on why women with big ideas get labeled ‘crazy’  : Wild Card with Rachel Martin

A note from Wild Card host Rachel Martin: I met Terry Tempest Williams about 25 years ago at a writer’s conference in Yosemite Valley. I was a young reporter who was there to do a story about how literature was addressing climate change and she made such a huge impression on me. I had never heard someone talk about the natural world the way Terry did and she had a spiritual depth I hadn’t encountered in my life at that point.

To this day, Terry’s writing always reorients me towards what is good, what is beautiful, and what is true. Her newest book is called “The Glorians.”

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Meow Wolf taps famed L.A. animation house for its new Los Angeles venue

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Meow Wolf taps famed L.A. animation house for its new Los Angeles venue

For its upcoming Los Angeles venue, experiential art firm Meow Wolf will focus on the art of storytelling, with a specific eye toward skewering our city’s moviemaking magic. To help bring that vision to life, Meow Wolf has entered into a creative partnership with Titmouse, one of L.A.’s most renowned independent animation houses.

The Hollywood-based studio behind popular series such as “Big Mouth” and “Star Trek: Lower Decks” will create animation that will be shown throughout the West L.A. venue, which is on target for a late 2026 opening at the Howard Hughes entertainment complex.

It’s a move that represents a shift for Santa Fe, N.M.-based Meow Wolf. Over the last decade-plus, the art collective has grown beyond its anything-goes, punk-meets-psychedelic roots into an organization with full-scale, maximalist installations in its hometown, Denver, Las Vegas, Houston and the Dallas suburbs. In the past, Meow Wolf kept most of its media in-house.

As part of its larger-than-life participatory art installations, Meow Wolf L.A. will feature a mix of live action and animation, the former filmed by Meow Wolf in its Santa Fe studio. Meow Wolf’s James Stephenson, a senior VP with the company and its creative director of emerging media, said the degree to which the L.A. exhibition will lean into various animation styles necessitated an outside partner. Titmouse’s work, in development by a number of directors with contrasting tones, will be shown on a variety of formats, ranging from cinema screens to full-room projections.

“I really believe in animation as an art form, and I know the Titmouse folks do too,” Stephenson says. “Animation is made by artists. It’s made by artists with their own hands. It’s something that is still very rooted in craft.”

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Meow Wolf’s L.A. space is set in a former cinema complex, and will champion its location, taking guests on a journey through a converted movie house and beyond, into a sci-fi-inspired fantasyland with sentient spaceships and a 30-foot-tall mushroom tower. Meow Wolf creatives have spoken of the fantastical movie theater as one that will feature animated, self-aware candy before attendees enter the main exhibition space, making Titmouse’s work some of the first art guests will encounter. Titmouse co-founder Chris Prynoski has said the studio has lined up at least six directors for the exhibit.

An in-progress art installation destined for Meow Wolf L.A. at the art collective’s Santa Fe, N.M., headquarters. The L.A. exhibition will feature animation from Titmouse.

(Gabriela Campos / For The Times)

Titmouse, says Stephenson, is the right partner because “they’re known less for a house style, and more for a house vibe.” Over the years, Titmouse has been behind such diverse shows as “Scavengers Reign,” owning a Jean Giraud influence rooted in French and Spanish surrealism, the lively “Jentry Chau vs. the Underworld,” with an unique color palette that took inspiration from anime and Chinese mythology, the exaggerated comic book feel of Adult Swim’s “Metalocalypse,” and the approachable yet expressive tone of “Star Trek: Lower Decks.”

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“Meow Wolf’s vibe is similar to Titmouse’s vibe,” Stephenson says. “It’s artist-first, artist-driven, independent and kinda edgy. They are always trying to find the edge of what’s possible. They try to see how far they can go, and it’s done for fun and in the spirit of taking risks.”

Prynoski says working with Meow Wolf will give Titmouse a sense of artistic freedom it doesn’t always have when delivering content for more traditional Hollywood partners. He says the multi-director approach is a callback to the early days of Warner Bros. Animation, when individual creators put their own stamp on Looney Tunes material.

“I use Bugs Bunny as an example,” Prynoski says. “You’ve got a Friz Freleng Bugs Bunny short. You’ve got a Chuck Jones Bugs Bunny short. You’ve got a Tex Avery Bugs Bunny short. They’re all different versions of Bugs Bunny, and people who are really paying attention can tell which director directed each one. Even though to the layman, these are all Bugs Bunny, but if you lined them up, they are drawing in different styles, sensibilities and techniques.”

Prynoski says that was a centerpiece of his pitch to Meow Wolf, noting that characters will reappear in multiple installations, each handled by a different artist. Meow Wolf L.A., in fact, will be the firm’s most character-driven exhibition, as guests will follow the storylines of three main protagonists throughout the space.

In announcing the partnership, Meow Wolf and Titmouse released an image from an animated work directed by Luca Vitale. It features a key character having a moment with a hummingbird and it’s done in an elegant, slightly anime-influenced style. It’s an image full of movement, reflecting a character in transition with inviting pastels and bold dashes.

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“I like that image because I think it captures some of the sense of wonder that we want people to feel,” Stephenson says. “The character is having an encounter with the elusive nature of creativity and reality in a way that makes them have a different perspective of what’s possible.”

Other contributing animation directors to Meow Wolf L.A. include Space Dawg, Felix Colgrave, Alexander Vanderplank and Phimémon Martin, and Jun Ioneda.

Titmouse’s partnership with Meow Wolf will extend beyond the L.A. exhibition. The two will be working on the development of Meow Wolf New York, which is slated to open some time after Los Angeles, and are collaborating on a planned animated series, which Prynoski is spearheading.

Meow Wolf exhibits are the result of sometimes hundreds of disparate artists coming together in a shared space. Distilling that into a signature, singular style for a series could be a challenge. Stephenson pinpoints some guiding principles.

“You really need to feel the hand of the artist,” he says. “You need to feel a DIY aesthetic. You need to feel the materiality. Those are very specific to what we are.”

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Appeals court denies Trump’s request to halt removal of his name from the Kennedy Center

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Appeals court denies Trump’s request to halt removal of his name from the Kennedy Center

The Kennedy Center on June 28, with its facade signage still covered by a tarp and scaffolding.

Alex Wroblewski/AFP via Getty Images


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Alex Wroblewski/AFP via Getty Images

On Wednesday, a federal appeals court denied President Trump’s request to stop the removal of his name from Washington, D.C.’s Kennedy Center. The signage on the building has been covered with tarp and scaffolding since June 13, but in a court filing last month, the center’s current executive director said that Trump’s name has been removed.

In their decision, three judges from the U.S. District Court of Appeals for the District of Columbia Circuit said that the president had failed to prove that the arts center would be “irreparably injured” without Trump’s name attached to it.

NPR requested comment from the Kennedy Center, but did not receive an immediate reply.

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This latest round of court decisions is part of the ongoing litigation filed by Rep. Joyce Beatty, D-Ohio, against President Trump and the board of the Kennedy Center. In a statement emailed Wednesday to NPR, Beatty said: “Today’s ruling again affirms that this administration’s efforts to rename the Kennedy Center were unlawful. His name no longer desecrates this sacred memorial, which belongs to the American people. Now it is time for the Trump administration to accept this, comply with the law, and take the tarps down.”

In previous court filings, Trump’s legal team had asserted that removing the president’s name from the arts complex, both on the physical building and in its digital materials, would inflict irreparable harm in both time and money already spent. In the denial, the three judges — Patricia Millett, Robert Wilkins and Gregory Katsas — wrote that since Trump’s name has already been removed, “a stay would not avert those harms.”

Furthermore, Trump had claimed that without his name attached, future fundraising would be threatened “and [will] contribute to the financial decline of the Center.” In response, the appeals judges wrote: “Appellants, however, have failed to support this assertion with any specific facts or evidence. They offer only the conclusory assertions of the Kennedy Center’s Executive Director that were made in a factually unsupported declaration.” The center’s current executive director, Matt Floca, specializes in physical plant management.

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