Education
MAHA Awaits Robert F. Kennedy Jr.’s Definition of Ultraprocessed Foods
Trying to devise a one-size-fits-all description for ultraprocessed foods is flummoxing federal regulators.
For months, the health secretary, Robert F. Kennedy Jr., has promised to create a definition of ultraprocessed, a crucial part of the Make America Healthy Again agenda. In mid-April, he testified before Congress that the Food and Drug Administration had forwarded a definition to other agencies, including the Department of Agriculture.
But behind the scenes, officials said, the process of defining ultraprocessed foods is still very much up in the air. Agencies are struggling to agree, and it is unclear when a definition will be released.
“It’s not final until it’s final,” said Calley Means, a senior adviser to Mr. Kennedy, adding that the definition would ultimately be the result of hundreds of conversations with scientists, agency staff and other stakeholders.
For the food industry, which is already seeing demand for many of its products soften as some consumers cut back on spending while others use weight-loss drugs, the debate about what an ultraprocessed food is or isn’t has potentially far-reaching consequences.
Under one classification widely used among the scientific community, essentially any foods or drinks made with ingredients you wouldn’t find in a home kitchen are defined as ultraprocessed. If regulators adopt that sort of definition, nearly three-quarters of foods sold in the United States could be deemed ultraprocessed.
The food industry is arguing against a strict definition that would label chicken nuggets, strawberry yogurt and whole-grain tortillas as ultraprocessed.
Based on that definition, deli turkey could be categorized the same as a snack cake, the National Turkey Federation wrote in a comment letter to regulators last fall. It said that certain food additives and processing steps were critical to keep turkey fresh and that those “benefits are especially important for lower-income households, where access to nutrient-dense, high-quality protein can otherwise be limited.”
One fear that emerged in interviews with food companies, lobbyists and regulators, most of whom declined to be quoted, is that foods tagged as ultraprocessed could be restricted or eliminated entirely from the nation’s school meal programs. They are multibillion-dollar revenue streams for the companies that make sandwich breads, cereals, salsas and other foods. Others are worried that regulators could create new rules for warning labels on the packaging of foods in grocery stores.
But Mr. Kennedy, who has frequently referred to ultraprocessed foods as “poison” and has suggested restricting them from the diets of Americans, particularly children, is facing intensifying pressure from the MAHA movement, which is credited with helping elect President Trump to his second term. A Politico poll published in April showed that removing ultraprocessed foods from the American diet was a core principle for people identifying as MAHA followers.
“If we can have a federal definition that is strong and science-based, it opens the door for meaningful policy,” said Vani Hari, a health advocate who is known as the “Food Babe” online and is a prominent voice in the MAHA movement. And, she added, “anything positive that is coming out of the administration on food reform is popular with voters.”
Many scientists support a strong definition, and noted that evidence linking ultraprocessed foods to a host of chronic diseases, including obesity, Type 2 diabetes, heart disease and some types of cancer, has grown in the last decade.
Defining ultraprocessed foods is “one of the most important policy actions around food that the U.S. government has done for probably 25 years or more,” said Dr. Dariush Mozaffarian, a cardiologist and the director of the Food Is Medicine Institute at Tufts University. “Industry is going to fight tooth and nail because this is a fundamental threat to their entire model,” he added.
Dr. Mark Hyman, a physician and friend of Mr. Kennedy’s, called ultraprocessed foods the “single biggest threat to public health ever.” He characterized the food industry’s lobbying on the definition as “their usual shenanigans.” It is “obfuscating, confusing, undermining credibility of scientists,” he said.
While the food industry is trying to make its case to federal regulators, it is also facing a dizzying array of new regulations by states. Emboldened by the MAHA movement, many states are not waiting for the federal government. Instead, they are writing their own rules for food. Last year, Texas and Louisiana passed laws that required warning labels on foods that contained any of 44 additives, while California banned certain ultraprocessed foods from school lunch programs. Other states are weighing similar moves.
Dr. Mozaffarian at Tufts and some other health experts argue that the federal definition should adhere closely to a food classification system called Nova, which is used in the vast majority of the research linking ultraprocessed foods to poor health.
The Nova definition deems a wide swath of products ultraprocessed, including candy, soda and hot dogs. It also includes some foods traditionally considered to be healthy, like many whole wheat breads, peanut butters and yogurts.
The definition is focused primarily on ingredients. Peanut butter, if it contains nothing more than peanuts or salt, would not be considered ultraprocessed. But most peanut butters sold in grocery stores contain hydrogenated vegetable oils, kicking them into the ultraprocessed category, according to Nova. Likewise, plain yogurt would not be considered ultraprocessed. But when ingredients like emulsifiers and flavorings are added, the food becomes ultraprocessed.
In his testimony before Congress in mid-April, Mr. Kennedy said that once a definition was in place, his agency would move forward with a plan that would mandate placing color-coded labels on the front of food and beverage packages.
“If it’s a red light, don’t eat it,” he said during his testimony. Green, he said, would signal to consumers the food is healthy.
Mr. Kennedy also suggested that following a federal definition of ultraprocessed foods, states could restrict them from their food stamp programs — jeopardizing billions more in revenue to food companies.
In conversations with regulators and members of Congress, the food industry broadly asserts that an overly strict definition of ultraprocessed foods like the one from the Nova system could target nutritious foods, that more research is needed, and that increased regulation could result in higher prices for consumers.
Using a broad brush to categorize foods “fails to capture the important reality that all processed foods are not equal,” the cereal manufacturer WK Kellogg wrote in a comment letter last year when the F.D.A. asked about how ultraprocessed foods should be defined. The National Chicken Council wrote in another comment letter that “gummy bears and chicken nuggets in this comparison are technically ‘ultraprocessed’ by common definitions. Yet, it is clear which one has potential to contribute meaningful nutrients to a higher quality diet.”
Some of those arguments are gaining traction inside the Department of Agriculture, which oversees the nation’s school meal programs. Officials there say it is unclear if the definition will be tied to policy and, if it is, expressed concern that food manufacturers could quit the programs, leaving school officials with fewer choices for children’s lunches.
Lindsey Smith Taillie, a professor of nutrition at the University of North Carolina’s Gillings School of Global Public Health, who met with F.D.A. officials in mid-April, said there was a middle ground. She argues that regulators can still create a strong federal definition similar to Nova’s while constructing useful policies — such as for warning labels or school meals — by exempting products that are “healthy,” according to F.D.A. standards.
The F.D.A. defines a healthy food as one containing a certain amount of actual food — like fruits, vegetables or milk, as opposed to processed ingredients like cornstarch — and not too much saturated fat, sodium or added sugars.
Dr. Taillie said most ultraprocessed foods don’t meet the “healthy” definition. But a policy like this could motivate food companies to reformulate products to fit that criterion, she added.
Education
Opinion | 13 George Washington Interpreters on Embodying an Icon
In our national memory, George Washington is a mythic figure, cast in metal, carved in stone. His leadership, first as general, then as president, is so intertwined with the roots of this country that it is sometimes hard to separate the man from the idea of America. How does one imagine the living presence of such an icon, much less embody him?
There is a small fraternity of men bold enough to try. At historical parks and commemorations from Virginia to Seattle, these interpreters (their preferred term) transform themselves into Washington. Each has his own approach, but what all their representations seek to capture is a legacy that has endured from his time to ours. If America, at least in part, is an idea, then our national project becomes, like theirs, an act of interpretation, an imperfect attempt to translate some idealized vision into the messy reality of our own time.
— Ezekiel Kweku
“By some strange quirk
of genetics, I have
Washington’s exact
dimensions. Where my
sleeves fall on my wrist,
the size of my chest, the
size of my thighs, where
the breeches fall to my
knees, are all identical.”
John Koopman, 67, often performs
while riding his horse, Bear. He
has portrayed Washington for 20 years.
James Fryer, 70, wears a replica of a general’s uniform that Washington designed himself. He recently completed training to portray Washington for the nonprofit Historic Philadelphia.
“Some people portray George as a marble statue. I don’t do a marble George. I am interested in talking to everyone, even those who yell at me because George was a slave owner. I want to respect them, try to educate them, or maybe even inspire them.”
Vern Frykholm, 77, was moved to bring his interpretation of Washington to Washington State, where he lives, after seeing a 2011 performance in Pennsylvania.
Dean Malissa, 73, signs his personal
correspondence, including emails,
as Washington did: “Your Most Humble
and Obedient Servant.” He became
the Official George Washington
at Mount Vernon in 2004, and held
that role for nearly 20 years.
“I describe him sometimes as just a dude. I look at him and think, I could see myself in the same world, making similar bad decisions or similar good decisions.”
Daniel Cross, 39, portrayed a young Washington at Virginia’s Colonial Williamsburg until last year. He now works with organizations around the country.
Curt Radabaugh, 62, has 13,000 history books in his personal library, including several hundred about Washington. He is a veteran of the U.S. Marines and a retired police officer.
“He’s a mentor, a father
figure, and not only in the
sense that he’s a patriarch
of the country. Because
I grew up without a
father, he kind of became
my surrogate father.”
Brian Hilton, 58, says he researches
Washington’s era every morning before
his children get up and at night after
they go to bed. He is a high school history
teacher near Richmond, Va.
Daniel Shippey, 57, partners on interpretations with his wife, Kelly, who portrays Martha Washington. Kelly researched 18th-century hair techniques to create her husband’s costume hairstyle. They live in Virginia.
“You’re playing the myth of George Washington as well as the historical figure. I make his voice a little firmer and deeper than it probably was in real life. I play him a little funnier than he probably was. In reality, if you came to see him, he probably wouldn’t talk to you as much as I do.”
Doug Thomas, 53, is Washington’s second cousin nine times removed.
John Godzieba, 67, has reenacted
the crossing of the Delaware as
Washington every Christmas for the
past 16 years at Pennsylvania’s
Washington Crossing Historic Park.
“In many ways I don’t look like him. My eye color is wrong. My nose is wrong. My hair color is wrong. I wouldn’t have cast myself in this role.”
Ron Carnegie, 64, has portrayed Washington at Colonial Williamsburg for 20 years.
Ryan Williams, 37, is a veteran who specializes in playing a young Washington during the French and Indian War. He lives in Virginia.
“Some people portray
Washington almost
like a superhero.
I like to bring out that
he has faults. He’s a
person like you or me.”
Michael Grillo, 64, is a historical
tailor who hand-sews his own clothes
for reenactments. He also makes
period props, including two American
battle flags and pewter mugs
engraved with Washington’s crest.
Martin Schoeller is a photographer and director known for his close-up portraits of everyone from world leaders and celebrities to female bodybuilders. For this project, he used a large format camera to photograph 13 historical interpreters of George Washington — many of whom arrived in full uniform — over three days in Virginia and New York City.
Additional reporting by Tenzin D. Tsagong. Interviews have been edited and condensed for length and clarity. Top quotes from Brian Hilton, Daniel Shippey and Daniel Cross.
Produced by Sara Barrett, Danny DeBelius and Sam Whitney. Additional production by Olivia James.
Education
This Little Robot Cleans Windows
One task the robots can take from us? Cleaning. Especially hard-to-access windows. So when writers Caroline Mullen and Evan Dent found this little guy — whose government name is “EcoVacs Winbot Mini” — they were intrigued. Could he clean the uncleanable? Caroline and Evan put their robot friend to the test at both the Wirecutter office and a high-rise apartment. Is a robo-window cleaner more effective than scrubbing yourself?
Education
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