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Little America: The Middle-Of-Nowhere Hotel On I-80 That’s Also Its Own Town

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Little America: The Middle-Of-Nowhere Hotel On I-80 That’s Also Its Own Town


LITTLE AMERICA — It’s impossible to miss the Little America Wyoming hotel and travel stop on Interstate 80 in southwest Wyoming even if it is, as travelers often note in their reviews, in the middle of nowhere.

Signs advertising the hotel, and its signature 75-cent ice cream cones, start from a 100-mile radius around the Little America, inviting travelers to drop by a hotel that is so remote, it has its own ZIP code and is essentially its own city. Its population is even counted and recorded by the U.S. Census Bureau.

There’s a story behind the remoteness of this location, a story that’s as iconic Americana as the wooden penguins that adorn the rooftops of most of Little America’s buildings, not to mention that giant stuffed penguin in the lobby.

The story began as a wish on a cold Wyoming winter night by Little America founder Stephen Mack Covey, who told the story on placemats at his travel stop which was then along Route 30.

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“Away back in the (18)90s when I was a youngster and herding sheep in this dreary section of Wyoming, I became lost in a raging northeast blizzard and was forced to ‘Lay Out’ all night at this exact place where Little America now stands,” Covey wrote in the story on the placemats.

“That long January night in that terrible storm with a 50-mile wind and the temperature about 40 below passed very, very slowly, and oh, how I longed for a warm fireside, something to eat, and wool blankets. I thought what a blessing it would be if some good soul would build a house of shelter of some kind on that god-forsaken spot.”

In 1929, when Covey saw Admiral Byrd’s photos of his “Little America” camp in the Antarctic, he was reminded of that wish, born on that bitter cold night while he was caught in the Arctic grip of a Wyoming northeaster. The reminder inspired him to build a modest motel with 12 cabins, two gas pumps, a cocktail lounge, and a 24-seat café.

The price of a burger at that time was a mere 35 cents. A gallon of gas was 16 cents and an ice cream cone was 5 cents.

Covey adopted the penguin as his logo and named his business Little America. He put up a whole string of billboards to tell travelers at regular intervals just how far they were from Little America, and to warn them that nothing else would be available for many miles in either direction.

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A Hotel That’s Become Its Own City

Little America Wyoming opened in 1952, and current General Manager Spencer Riggs admits to having a little bit of fun with the fact the hotel has its very own ZIP code.

“If you were to send us mail, you could literally make up almost any address you want, as long as you use the ZIP code 82929,” he said. “It will get to us. There’s no real official post office box or address once you’re at the property.”

From time to time, Riggs has made up funny addresses that sound cool just to see if they will arrive. And they generally always do.

“Typically, we go by something kind of standard,” he said. “But that makes us unique.”

Because it is so remote, the hotel has to have all of its own infrastructure, and it does function more or less as its own city, albeit one without an official mayor.

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“We have green signs on the highway that say Little America, just as if it were a city,” Riggs said. “You know, no business has the green sign. They have blue signs, but ours has a city sign with a mileage to it.”

There are about 50 residences located on the backside of the property, and this is where some Little America employees live. Monthly rents range from $300 for a small studio apartment to about $750 for a three-bedroom house with two bathrooms and a two-car garage.

The employee housing is popular, Riggs said, and has a waiting list. Employees living there have a short walk to get to work, he added, though most still opt to drive.

Little America has its own utilities, including water treatment and storage, as well as its own Post Office, which opened in 1963.

“We also have our own fire station and trained volunteer fire people, because if we have a fire, it could be over a half an hour until we get help here,” Riggs said. “So, we’re able to take care of ourselves that way.”

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Holding On

By the 1950s, Little America was losing money. Covey’s solution was to sell Earl and Carol Holding, who were in their 20s at the time, a 10 percent stake in the business, in return for taking over the operation’s management.

Earl had distinguished himself in Covey’s eyes by being an exceptional groundskeeper with an eye for detail, Riggs told Cowboy State Daily.

“He had worked hard for them from the time he was 8 years old,” Riggs said. “And they knew him as such an incredible, business-type guy.”

The Holdings rolled up their sleeves and went to work, flipping burgers, waiting tables, pumping gas and making beds themselves. Within a year, they had turned the operation completely around, making it profitable again.

Eventually, they were able to buy Little America, and their timing was just perfect. The American public was taking to the road like never before, and the isolated motel in the middle of nowhere soon had plenty of travelers plumping up the business.

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Holding added dozens of pumps to his travel stop and put up signs for hundreds of miles around, proclaiming it as the world’s largest gas station.

The tactic was a success, and Holding was soon building Little Americas in Cheyenne, Salt Lake City and Flagstaff, Arizona.

Holding added Sinclair fuel as a premium gasoline in the 1950s as well, but he was not content with the profit margins. In 1968, he borrowed heavily and bought a small oil refinery in Casper from Mobil Oil Corporation, which eventually would supply fuel for the U.S. Air Force, Union Pacific Railroad, and a thousand service stations in the Mountain West, including his own.

Things went well with his Casper refinery, so Holding scooped up the assets of the Sinclair Oil Corp. And this would be why there’s a green brontosaurus sitting proudly, if a bit incongruously, in the front of the hotel’s lobby.

Sinclair’s famous green dinosaur was introduced in 1930 as a promotion for its refined lubricants, which were derived from Pennsylvania crudes laid down during the Mesozoic era, which included the brontosaurus’ late Jurassic and early Cretaceous epochs.

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  • Steak and shrimp with a side of vegetables and a baked potato. (Renée Jean, Cowboy State Daily)
  • Salmon with baked potato salad, vegetables of the day and a hot buttered roll.
    Salmon with baked potato salad, vegetables of the day and a hot buttered roll. (Renée Jean, Cowboy State Daily)
  • The travel center offers a hearty breakfast fluffy biscuits with sausage gravy.
    The travel center offers a hearty breakfast fluffy biscuits with sausage gravy. (Renée Jean, Cowboy State Daily)
  • The seating dates back to the 1950s along with throwback billboards hanging on the walls.
    The seating dates back to the 1950s along with throwback billboards hanging on the walls. (Renée Jean, Cowboy State Daily)
  • A Yellowstone Park billboard hanging on the wall at Little America.
    A Yellowstone Park billboard hanging on the wall at Little America. (Renée Jean, Cowboy State Daily)
  • The diner is packed in this vintage photo.
    The diner is packed in this vintage photo. (Renée Jean, Cowboy State Daily)
  • Portion sizes are hearty at the Little America bar and restaurant. Pictured are jalapeño poppers and a steak cooked to perfection with a side of green beans, mashed potato and a dinner roll.
    Portion sizes are hearty at the Little America bar and restaurant. Pictured are jalapeño poppers and a steak cooked to perfection with a side of green beans, mashed potato and a dinner roll. (Renée Jean, Cowboy State Daily)
  • No one is sure where the billboards on the wall came from, but they advertise iconic Western scenes, most of them related to Wyoming.
    No one is sure where the billboards on the wall came from, but they advertise iconic Western scenes, most of them related to Wyoming. (Renée Jean, Cowboy State Daily)
  • John Wayne is among the billboards hanging on the walls at Little America.
    John Wayne is among the billboards hanging on the walls at Little America. (Renée Jean, Cowboy State Daily)
  • The dining area at Little America's travel stop will be expanding, as will its kitchen and shopping areas.
    The dining area at Little America’s travel stop will be expanding, as will its kitchen and shopping areas. (Renée Jean, Cowboy State Daily)
  • The bar at Little America also dates back to the 1950s.
    The bar at Little America also dates back to the 1950s. (Renée Jean, Cowboy State Daily)

Little America Is Still Growing

There had been rumors when Little America closed its restaurant in 2014 that it was on its way out.

“It’s actually quite the opposite,” Riggs said. “That was something unfortunate that we had to do, but over the years we’ve revamped that and reopened it again. Little America is by no means failing at all. It is off to the races for something much bigger and much better in the future.”

Little America’s past business model has been focused on catering to pass-through travelers who want either a pit stop or an overnight stay, as well as to extended-stay guests who are working on projects at the nearby trona mines.

To that end, there are two spacious travel centers, one for long-haul truckers and one for the general public that includes a small outdoor playground for children.

There are 128 hotel rooms for those who want to spend the night, and a swimming pool that’s open only in the summer.

But the business model is changing a bit, and a multi-phase renovation and expansion is underway to transform Little America into a destination unto itself.

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That effort began with the addition of an RV Park in the back of the hotel property that has about 48 spaces with picnic spots and has continued with an update to the lobby, including new furnishings and carpets.

Next up will be an expansion of both travel centers. The kitchen’s going to get bigger, speeding up the meal service, and there will be more dining room and vendor space.

Further down the line, Riggs said the company is considering an indoor water park that will be available year-round, as well as a brand-new hotel, which would give the location a new edge on competitors along I-80.

“I was just looking at some of the old pictures of Little America and realized that we have been growing and expanding since we started,” Riggs said. “What started, you know, as a little restaurant, gas station and gift shop has become much bigger.”

Riggs said the owners of Little America have visited from time to time and expressed to him personally the importance of this particular Little America location to the Holding family, which still owns the location.

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For them, it is the place where a family from humble beginnings made an American dream come true, ultimately building an empire that includes storied ski resorts in Sun Valley, Idaho and Snowbasin, Utah as well as other hotels, 400,000 acres of ranch land and Sinclair oil.

  • Little America General Manager Spencer Riggs talks about future plans for the Wyoming destination.
    Little America General Manager Spencer Riggs talks about future plans for the Wyoming destination. (Renée Jean, Cowboy State Daily)
  • The travel center attracts a steady stream of customers all day long on I-80. It's a pit stop in the middle of nowhere.
    The travel center attracts a steady stream of customers all day long on I-80. It’s a pit stop in the middle of nowhere. (Renée Jean, Cowboy State Daily)
  • There's a reason this cute brontosaurus is sitting in front to the hotel registration building. The hotel owners are the Holdings, who own Sinclair.
    There’s a reason this cute brontosaurus is sitting in front to the hotel registration building. The hotel owners are the Holdings, who own Sinclair. (Renée Jean, Cowboy State Daily)
  • There's a sitting area inside each room.
    There’s a sitting area inside each room. (Renée Jean, Cowboy State Daily)
  • The swimming pool is open only in summer.
    The swimming pool is open only in summer. (Renée Jean, Cowboy State Daily)
  • The RV site with picnic areas like this one is a new addition to Little America Wyoming.
    The RV site with picnic areas like this one is a new addition to Little America Wyoming. (Renée Jean, Cowboy State Daily)
  • The hotel rooms are more like motel rooms or apartments. About half the guests are extended-stay workers doing construction or other projects for a nearby mine.
    The hotel rooms are more like motel rooms or apartments. About half the guests are extended-stay workers doing construction or other projects for a nearby mine. (Renée Jean, Cowboy State Daily)
  • The hotel lobby has new carpet and furnishings.
    The hotel lobby has new carpet and furnishings. (Renée Jean, Cowboy State Daily)
  • Take home a mascot with this Little America penguin T-shirt.
    Take home a mascot with this Little America penguin T-shirt. (Renée Jean, Cowboy State Daily)
  • Rooms are sizable and clean with a comfortable bed for weary travelers.
    Rooms are sizable and clean with a comfortable bed for weary travelers. (Renée Jean, Cowboy State Daily)
  • Pool tables and the bar inside Little America.
    Pool tables and the bar inside Little America. (Renée Jean, Cowboy State Daily)
  • Penguins on top of one of the hotel buildings.
    Penguins on top of one of the hotel buildings. (Renée Jean, Cowboy State Daily)
  • One of two penguins gifted to Little America by Admiral Byrd. The other is kept at the Cheyenne Little America.
    One of two penguins gifted to Little America by Admiral Byrd. The other is kept at the Cheyenne Little America. (Renée Jean, Cowboy State Daily)
  • New carpet and furnishings for Little America Lobby are part of an overall expansion and improvement plan.
    New carpet and furnishings for Little America Lobby are part of an overall expansion and improvement plan. (Renée Jean, Cowboy State Daily)
  • A typical room seems more like your front porch at home.
    A typical room seems more like your front porch at home. (Renée Jean, Cowboy State Daily)
  • Despite being surrounded by large, mature trees, Little Americas sign is readily visible from the highway.
    Despite being surrounded by large, mature trees, Little Americas sign is readily visible from the highway. (Renée Jean, Cowboy State Daily)
  • Little America offers its own brands of jams, jellies, pickles and other condiments inside its travel store.
    Little America offers its own brands of jams, jellies, pickles and other condiments inside its travel store. (Renée Jean, Cowboy State Daily)
  • Little America has its own post office, which opened in 1963.
    Little America has its own post office, which opened in 1963. (Renée Jean, Cowboy State Daily)
  • Books about Butch Cassidy and other Wyoming and Western outlaws and characters are for sale at Little America, alongside some cute little voodoo dolls. You never know what you're going to find at the Little America travel store.
    Books about Butch Cassidy and other Wyoming and Western outlaws and characters are for sale at Little America, alongside some cute little voodoo dolls. You never know what you’re going to find at the Little America travel store. (Renée Jean, Cowboy State Daily)
  • A variety of touristy fare is available in the travel center.
    A variety of touristy fare is available in the travel center. (Renée Jean, Cowboy State Daily)
  • A variety of books about Wyoming are for sale at the Little America travel stop.
    A variety of books about Wyoming are for sale at the Little America travel stop. (Renée Jean, Cowboy State Daily)
  • A playground just outside the travel center.
    A playground just outside the travel center. (Renée Jean, Cowboy State Daily)
  • Little America Wyoming presents a classic American facade that sets a tone for more than a hotel, it's a small city of its own, complete with a ZIP code.
    Little America Wyoming presents a classic American facade that sets a tone for more than a hotel, it’s a small city of its own, complete with a ZIP code. (Little America Wyoming via Facebook)

Renée Jean can be reached at Renee@CowboyStateDaily.com.



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Wyoming

Don Day Wyoming Weather Forecast: Sunday, December 3, 2023

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Don Day Wyoming Weather Forecast: Sunday, December 3, 2023


Chance for snow in much of Wyoming on Sunday, also windy and blowing snow in some areas. Highs mostly in the 30s and lows from the teens to the low 30s.  

Central:  

Casper:  Look for it to be sunny and breezy today with a high near 35 and mostly cloudy and windy overnight with a low near 29.  Winds could gust to 30 mph during the day and 40 mph overnight. 

Riverton:  Expect it to be mostly sunny today with a high near 29 and mostly cloudy overnight with a low near 16.  

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Shoshoni It should be mostly sunny and blustery today with a high near 26 and mostly cloudy overnight with a low near 16.  Winds could gust as high as 21 mph during the day. 

Southwest:  

Evanston Snow mainly before 9 a.m. and patchy blowing snow is likely today and there’s a chance of snow mainly before midnight.  Otherwise, expect it to be mostly cloudy today with a high near 34 and mostly cloudy overnight with a low near 29.  Winds could gust up to 32 mph during the day and 30 mph overnight.  

Rock Springs:   There’s a slight chance of snow before 1 p.m. today, otherwise it should be mostly cloudy and breezy today with a high near 39 and mostly cloudy and breezy overnight with a low near 30.  Winds could gust to 29 mph during the day and overnight.   

Lyman There’s a chance of snow and patchy blowing snow today and a slight chance of snow before 11 p.m. tonight.  Otherwise, look for it to be mostly cloudy and breezy today with a high near 38 and mostly cloudy and breezy overnight with a low near 31.  Winds could gust to 37 mph during the day and overnight.  

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Western Wyoming:  

Pinedale:  There’s a winter weather advisory in effect until Monday at 5 a.m.  Snow is possible today and mainly before 10 p.m. overnight.  Otherwise, it should be mostly cloudy and breezy today with a high near 33 and mostly cloudy overnight with a low near 22.  Winds could gust to 22 mph during the day and 21 mph overnight. 

Alpine:  There’s a winter storm warning in effect until Monday at 5 a.m.  Snow is near certain today and rain and snow are near certain overnight.  Otherwise, expect the high to be near 36 today and the low should be near 31 overnight.  Up to about 3 inches of snow is possible.    

Big Piney:  There’s a chance of snow mainly between 10 a.m. and 3 p.m. today and there’s a slight chance of snow before 10 p.m. tonight.  Otherwise, look for it to be partly sunny today with a high near 34 and mostly cloudy overnight with a low near 16.  

Northwest:  

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Dubois:  There’s a chance of snow and patch blowing snow today and overnight.  Otherwise, expect it to be partly sunny and breezy today with a high near 33 and mostly cloudy and windy overnight with a low near 28.  Winds could gust to 31 mph during the day and 41 mph overnight.   

Jackson:  There’s a winter storm warning in effect until Monday at 5 a.m. Snow, mainly after noon is near certain today and overnight.  Otherwise, the high should be near 36 and the low should be near 29.   Up to 7 inches of snow is possible.           

Old Faithful in Yellowstone National Park:  There’s a winter storm warning in effect until Monday at 5 a.m. Snow is likely mainly after 1 p.m. today and near certain overnight.  Otherwise, look for a high today near 28 and it should be breezy overnight with the low near 22.  Winds could gust as high as 22 mph during the day and 25 mph overnight.  Up to 6 inches of snow is possible.  

Bighorn Basin:  

Thermopolis Look for it to be mostly sunny today with a high near 35 and mostly cloudy overnight with a low near 20.  

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Cody:  It should be mostly sunny and breezy today with a high near 39 and mostly cloudy and breezy overnight with a low near 31.  Winds could gust as high as 23 mph during the day and 29 mph overnight.  

Greybull:  Expect it to be mostly sunny today with a high near 33 and mostly cloudy overnight with a low near 20.  

North Central:  

Buffalo:  It should be mostly sunny and breezy today with a high near 36 and mostly cloudy overnight with a low near 24.  Winds could gust as high as 31 mph during the day.  

Sheridan:  Look for it to be mostly sunny today with a high near 42 and mostly cloudy overnight with a low near 27.  Winds could gust to 43 mph during the day and blow from 11-16 mph overnight.  

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Ranchester:  Expect increasing clouds today with a high near 40 and it to be mostly cloudy overnight with a slight chance of rain and snow and the low near 27.  Winds could gust as high as 47 mph during the day and blow from 11-18 mph overnight.    

Northeast:  

Gillette:  Expect it to be mostly sunny and breezy today with a high near 36 and mostly cloudy overnight with a low near 25.  Winds could gust as high as 40 mph during the day and 24 mph overnight.     

Sundance:  There’s a chance of snow mainly before 1 p.m. today and a slight chance after 11 p.m. tonight.  Otherwise, it should be breezy and gradually become sunny today with a high near 33 and be mostly cloudy overnight with a low near 23.  Winds could gust as high as 33 mph during the day.    

Hulett:  There’s a slight chance of snow between 7 a.m. and 11 a.m. today, otherwise look for it to be mostly sunny with a high near 39 and mostly cloudy overnight with a low near 28.  Winds could gust as high as 30 mph during the day and 20 mph overnight.     

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Eastern Plains:  

Torrington:  Look for a slight chance of snow before 11 a.m. and it to be mostly sunny and windy today with a high near 40 and partly cloudy and breezy overnight with a low near 23.  Winds could gust as high as 45 mph during the day and 30 mph overnight.     

Lusk:  There’s a chance of snow before 11 a.m., otherwise it should be mostly sunny and windy today with a high near 34 and it should be partly cloudy and breezy overnight with a low near 21.  Winds could gust as high as 40 mph during the day and 30 mph overnight.   

Kaycee:  Watch for patchy blowing snow between 10 a.m. and noon today, otherwise it should be sunny and breezy with a high near 33 and mostly cloudy and breezy overnight with a low near 21.  Winds could gust as high as 26 mph during the day and 22 mph overnight.   

Southeast:  

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Cheyenne:  There’s a high wind warning in effect until Monday at 5 p.m.  There’s a chance of snow before 11 a.m. today, otherwise it should be mostly sunny and windy with a high near 36 and windy with increasing clouds overnight with a low near 30.  Winds could gust as high as 50 mph during the day and 45 mph overnight.  

Laramie:  There’s a high wind warning in effect today until 2 a.m. Tuesday.  There’s a chance of snow today and a slight chance before 11 p.m. tonight.  Otherwise, look for it to be partly sunny and windy today with a high near 32 and mostly cloudy and windy overnight with a low near 26.  Winds could gust as high as 55 mph during the day and 45 mph overnight.  

Pine Bluffs:  There’s a high wind warning in effect today until 5 p.m. Monday.  There’s a slight chance of snow before 11 a.m. today, otherwise expect it to be sunny and windy today with a high near 39 and partly cloudy and breezy overnight with a low near 24.  Winds could gust as high as 45 mph during the day and 30 mph overnight.

South Central:  

Rawlins:  There’s a high wind warning in effect until 5 p.m. Monday.  There’s a chance of snow mainly before noon today and a slight chance overnight.  Otherwise, it should be partly sunny and windy today with a high near 32 and mostly cloudy and windy overnight with a low near 29.  Winds could gust to 50 mph during the day and 55 mph overnight.  

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Encampment:  There’s a winter weather advisory in effect until 11 p.m. tonight.  Snow is likely with blowing snow mainly before 8 a.m. today and snow and patchy blowing snow are likely overnight.  Otherwise, look for it to be windy today with a high near 34 and cloudy and breezy overnight with a low near 30.  Winds could gust to 45 mph during the day and 35 mph overnight.     

Wamsutter:  There’s a slight chance of snow and patchy blowing snow today and overnight.  Otherwise, expect it to be partly sunny and breezy today with a high near 32 and mostly cloudy and breezy overnight with a low near 28.  Winds could gust to 29 mph during the day and 30 mph overnight.    



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Wyoming

Wyoming’s Infamous Dam Bar With A Speaker In The Women’s Outhouse

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Wyoming’s Infamous Dam Bar With A Speaker In The Women’s Outhouse


There’s a post-World War II building boom happening across Wyoming and you step into an outhouse overhanging the Wind River and settle in to do some business. Suddenly, a loud voice shouts out from the chasm underneath you, prompting an acceleration of that business, and you run out in terror and embarrassment.

From a nearby bar, a man laughs as he puts down a microphone.

Many Fremont and Hot Springs County residents didn’t have to imagine. They witnessed it firsthand at the Dam Bar and Privy, a notorious watering hole at the southern end of the Wind River Canyon near the Boysen Dam.

There are many crazy but true stories associated with The Dam Bar and Privy, a relic of the Old West that had a brief, but colorful, history in the 1940s and 1950s.

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“It was a very busy period, a very colorful time,” said Jackie Dorothy, tourism director for Hot Springs Travel & Tourism. “Some people still remember their parents going to it. They said kids were sent to the café while the parents went to the bar.”

‘The Best Damn Bar By A Dam Site’

The Dam Bar and Privy was the enterprise of Barney Smith, one of Hot Springs County’s most colorful characters. Smith was a member of the Farlow Family, which included Albert “Stub” Farlow, the man depicted riding Steamboat in Wyoming’s trademark bucking horse and rider.

The Farlows have a long history of Old West debauchery going back to the 1870s when the family settled in Lander. At least one Farlow was a known associate of Butch Cassidy’s gang of outlaws.

Barney Smith reveled in the family history while building his own reputation in the region. He was already running a bar and pool hall in Thermopolis when he embarked on a more ambitious venture at the southern end of the Wind River Canyon.

“He had quite the business going on,” said Dean King with the Hot Springs County Museum. “And I think he did really well. He was quite the promoter for his time.”

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Several structures, most likely built by the Farlow family, were already standing at the southern end of the Wind River Canyon near the tunnels on U.S. Highway 20 between Thermopolis and Shoshone. They housed the workers who built the original Boysen Dam in 1908.

Smith acquired and rebuilt the structures to accommodate more customers and offer myriad ways they could spend their money. The Dam Bar opened for business in 1947.

At first sight, it looked like any other highway rest stop. The Bar Café served meals to locals and tourists, who could also buy gasoline and groceries there. Dorothy said the buildings must’ve been deceptively large for the area.

“I stare at that place, wondering how they had a huge café, a huge bar and an outhouse all in that area,” she said. “I think must have been built into the hillside, but I’ve never seen a picture of (the buildings) from the back.”

When the original Boysen Dam was removed and construction on a new dam started in 1948, Smith was ready to cash the checks of the workers building it. King said his uncle worked at a Thermopolis bank and made a cash run to the Dam Bar every week for this purpose.

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“They had housing by the lake and couldn’t make it into town to cash their checks, so Barney would cash them at the bar. I’m sure they stayed around and had a drink or two afterward,” he said.

The business was seemingly nothing out of the ordinary. However, locals knew the Dam Bar and Privy for what it really was: “The best damn bar by a dam site.”

The Dam Bar and Privy were famous — and infamous — Wyoming landmarks. (Courtesy Photo)

Cashing In

During the heyday of the Dam Bar and Privy, it was well-known that anyone who wanted to find a game of chance could “go to the tunnels” at the southern end of the Wind River Canyon. This was a constant irritant for local law enforcement, covered by the Thermopolis Independent Record in a 1948 story headlined “Gambling Stopped in the Canyon.”

Smith wasn’t deterred by the heavy hand of local law enforcement. The Dam Bar’s amenities included a pool hall, poker games and slot machines.

Smith was long suspected of hosting a high-stakes poker game at the Dam Bar and a gambling hall he built on the Adel Homestead, located inside the Wind River Canyon in Hot Springs County.

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None of this was legal, but who would tell and ruin all the fun? And even if someone did, Smith had an ace up his sleeve.

Whenever the Fremont County Sheriff came to raid the Dam Bar, Smith moved the poker games and slot machines across the county line to Hot Springs County to the Adel Homestead. And when the Hot Springs County Sheriff came to raid that gambling hall, he moved everything back across the county line to Fremont County and the Dam Bar.

Smith was never caught in the act, nor did he face any gambling charges. Nearly everybody saw him as an honorable businessman.

One account from a Thermopolis resident recalled Smith as “a good neighbor and created much humor around the area. We always wondered where he stashed the cash to keep from paying taxes.”

“Some of our biggest businessmen would be seen today as crooks, but (back then) people looked the other way because they were good for business,” Dorothy said.

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King said Smith found another lucrative enterprise he operated from his home in the canyon.

“He had a whiskey still in his Wind River Canyon gambling hall,” he said. “He’d take the whiskey to the Dam Bar and sell it there.”

King said a tribal elder from the Wind River Reservation confessed they regularly bought whiskey from Smith, often drinking it at his gambling hall before going home.

And then there’s the story of the “setters” and the speaker.

Pointers And Setters

Anyone who needed to use the Dam Bar’s bathroom would have to cross U.S. Highway 20 to reach The Dam Privy, which hung over the Wind River. One was marked “Pointers” and the other “Setters,” designating their use by respective genders.

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Even here, Smith had an enterprising way to engage in skullduggery.

“He ran a speaker wire from inside the bar, underneath the highway, to the outhouse,” King said. “He had a microphone in the bar. When a lady would stop and use the facilities, he’d pick up the microphone and say something like, ‘Hey, I’m working down here!’ And they’d almost always get in their car and drive away.”

It’s more than an urban legend. King said several accounts of this prank have been verified, and eyewitnesses have attested to seeing it happen — the speaker was located on the wall beneath the toilet seat.

In the 2000s, The Hot Springs County Museum found a poem in its archives. “The Old Gas Station” was a poorly written but accurate chronicle of how Smith operated the scheme that lines up with primary sources from Dam Bar patrons.

Buried Treasure?

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The outhouse prank is crazy enough to be true, but there is another urban legend associated with Smith. He made plenty of money through his various enterprises and was very particular about what he did with it.

“Every week, he would come to the bank with his cigar box full of cash and make a deposit,” King said. “He did not trust the banks, so he deposited it in his safe deposit box.”

But Smith only deposited his cash. He never brought his coins to the bank, which started the urban legend of Barney Smith’s buried treasure, a fortune of coins supposedly buried near the Dam Bar.

“Barney never told his wife where he buried the money,” King said. “And only one nephew knew.”

Privy To History

Smith died in 1953 while attending a funeral in Adel, Iowa. His wife ran the Dam Bar for a time after his death, but later sold the property. By then, much of the Dam Bar’s reputation had transitioned to memories and anecdotes.

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It’d be only fitting that the Dam Bar and Privy met an infamous end, which it did in August 1963, when the structures were destroyed in a fire. Only the foundations remain, which can still be seen near the Boysen Dam.

“That (fire) was suspicious, too,” King said.

The news of the Dam Bar’s end might have been bad for many, but not everyone. King said a woman from Fort Washakie had told him how much women hated the business.

“She told us, ‘I hated that place. Most women did. Anytime I came around the corner, the place made me sick.’ She knew what went on there,” he said.

King said she had a secret wish fulfilled when she learned of the bar’s destruction.

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“She’d always say, ‘I wish that place would just burn down.’ One day, she turned the corner, and it had,” he said.

And for anyone wondering, King said the nephew who knew where Smith’s buried treasure was located died within a year of Smith’s death.

“No one ever found the money,” he said. “I don’t know if it’s true or not, but it makes for a great story.”

For Dorothy, the colorful story of the Dam Bar and Privy adds to the luster of Thermopolis’ Wild West legacy. In many ways, the spirit of those days persisted in the region long after the Old West was relegated to history.

“I don’t think the Wild West left Thermopolis until the 1970s,” she said. “We might still be experiencing a bit of it.”

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The Dam Bar and Privy were famous — and infamous — Wyoming landmarks.
The Dam Bar and Privy were famous — and infamous — Wyoming landmarks. (Courtesy Photo)



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Meeteetse Chocolatier Takes Annual International Safari For Unique Confections

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Meeteetse Chocolatier Takes Annual International Safari For Unique Confections


Waistlines across Wyoming might be in trouble next year, with the Meeteetse Chocolatier’s latest European find.

Every year, Meeteetse Chocolatier Tim Kellogg heads to Europe’s vibrant chocolate scene for a peek at the latest trends. He brings them back to the U.S. a year, and sometimes even two years, before they would normally make it here.

It’s part of his personal quest to always be learning new skills and bring ever more interesting chocolate confections home to his Wyoming shop in Meeteetse, as well as his occasional pop-up shop in Cody.

Snacking bars, his latest find, are mind-blowing confections built from multiple layers of adventurous flavors, encased in a smooth, bar of rich chocolate.

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“It’s like a long, narrow bar with multiple layers of flavors inside,” Kellogg told Cowboy State Daily. “It could be praline or like a fruit gel, or ganache, you know, a caramel.”

The chocolate shell that keeps all the creamy insides together might look very minimalist on the outside.

But bite into the bar and “there’s all these flavors and colors and textures on the inside,” Kellogg said.

A Vibrant Chocolate Scene

Kellogg discovered the London chocolate scene while looking for answers to all of his confection questions, when he was first starting out.

He was watching the Food Network, YouTube videos and reading everything he could get his hands on, but America didn’t yet really have a thriving artisan chocolate scene outside of New York or maybe Chicago.

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“The London Times has this great food section, and there’s almost always an article about desserts or chocolate,” Kellogg said. “And so one Sunday there was an article about a chocolatier in London who was doing what I was trying to do and was very, very successful at it.”

When he saw all the amazing flavor combinations, he knew he just had to make a trip across the pond learn more. When he got there, he realized it wasn’t just this one chocolatier. There were four, five, six chocolatiers trying unique flavor pairings with fresh ingredients that have short shelf lives and aren’t mass-produced, which was exactly the path Kellogg was on.

“There just seems to be this chocolate vibrancy there that I didn’t see anywhere else,” Kellogg said.

Stores like Aneesh Popat, for example, which is doing water-based ganaches without cream or butter in incredible flavors and combinations, or London chocolate, which has made a name for itself in the bean to bar, small-batch chocolates.

Charbonnel & Walker, meanwhile, are renowned for their rose and violet creams, while Buck’s Fizz has a champagne and orange chocolate that inspired a flavor combination in Kellogg’s own store.

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“Both Harrod’s and Selfridge’s department stores have a dedicated choologate hall, filled with case of chocolates from a variety of chocolatiers,” Kellogg said. “These are great areas to pick up on emerging trends, as well as try a wide variety of chocolates.”

Kellogg has made a European chocolate adventure a tradition every year since the first to check out the London chocolate scene and absorb everything he can about the latest trends. It brings inspiration and innovation to his store. He’ll also attend a class or two at the Chocolate Academy for working professionals to learn new skills.

  • Meeteetse Chocolatier Tim Kellogg also makes tempting snacking bars. (Courtesy Tim Kellogg)
  • Making snacking bars.
    Making snacking bars. (Courtesy Tim Kellogg)

A Train Of Delicious Thought

Snacking bars are something Kellogg has tried before.

“I’ve never been able to make them on my own,” Kellogg said. “I didn’t know how to do them properly, but we spent several days working on that, and I was actually quite pleased with the way they turned out.”

Kellogg posted a delicious train of snacking bars he was making in the UK at the Chocolate Academy this year.

There was a hazelnut, almond and pistachio confection dipped in Belgian dark chocolate, followed by a pistachio praline with cranberries and Belgian white chocolate dipped in Belgian ruby chocolate. Finally, there was a tropical concoction that had pineapple, yuzu, and coconut, topped with apricots and caramelized popcorn, dipped in Callebaut Gold chocolate.

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Kellogg, though, was modest about his progress.

“All the really good-looking photos were of Mark and Claire’s (snacking bars),” he said. ”They were not mine. Some of mine were just like, well it’s a good thing that tastes good. I just have to serve them to my friends when it’s very dark.”

Mark and Claire were fellow students in the snacking bar class Kellogg took this year while he was in London.

While he was modest about his own program, a simple glance at photos of candies from Kellogg’s store shows he clearly has very high standards for the chocolates he serves.

When he says they’re just “OK,” you can bet they’re actually exceptional.

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They’re A Speed Test

Making a snacking bar is a demanding task that requires both insane organization and speed, especially since Kellogg is not using any fancy machinery to speed things up. He does it all by hand.

“You start with kind of the inside, and you build up the layers,” Kellogg said. “So, if you’re doing a ganache layer, you’d make that, and it goes into kind of like a square pan.”

On top of that, the next layers are built, whether fruit gel, caramel, ganache, or something else.

“When it’s set, they’re cut into kind of rectangle shapes and then dipped,” Kellogg said. “Then it’s dipped again, so you have like a double layer to hold everything together on the inside.”

Kellogg has to keep his store at a particular temperature, so that the inside of the bars won’t soften too quickly before they’re dipped.

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“If they’re at room temperature too long, they’ll obviously kind of revert back to a cream state,” Kellogg said. “That’s why, when you bite into them, they’re nice and soft on the inside. But they’re impossible to enrobe or dip at that point. It’ll just blend with the chocolate.”

The other speed factor here is the temper of the chocolate, which only lasts so long.

“I don’t have massive machines that have a constant flow of tempered chocolate,” he said. “These are literally done by hand and dipped right away. Once the chocolate starts to go out of temper, I have to stop and then kind of start over with the next part of the batch.”

Examples of a new enrobing technique the Meeteetse Chocolatier has brought home from Europe.
Examples of a new enrobing technique the Meeteetse Chocolatier has brought home from Europe. (Courtesy Tim Kellogg)

New Enrobing Method

The other cool trick Kellogg worked on learning this year is how to enrobe chocolates. This new technique will allow him to make chocolates that are just a little more durable and last a little bit longer than his signature truffles.

“Truffles have been kind of my main items and those are like a chocolate ganache with a very thin chocolate shell,” Kellogg said. Enrobed chocolates “have a much thicker shell and, because of that, you can do layers on the inside.”

It’s also a little more stable, so will last a few days longer than truffles.

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“The shell is also thick enough that it can support multiple layers within it if you want to do that,” Kellogg said.

In addition to the new enrobing technique, Kellogg learned a new technique for decorating the surfaces of these enrobed chocolates. Now, not only can he play with lots of new layered flavors inside a truffle-like ball, but he can give the balls interesting new patterns like speckles and colorful clouds.

Kellogg has already added some of the new flavor combinations this new technique will allow into his holiday lineup.

There’s, for example, a mulled wine chocolate, which is pinot noir with orange peel, clove, and warming spices, as well as a gingerbread caramel, a four-spice chocolate candy, and a new candy cane chocolate.

“After the holidays, there’ll be a lot more time to kind of present a whole new collection in addition to what I’m doing now,” Kellogg said. “During Christmas, it’s just so overwhelmingly busy, it’s hard to do a whole lot of the new stuff.”

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And, too, Kellogg is planning his next chocolate-buying trip to Belize, where he’ll once again be looking for one-of-a-kind chocolates for his bean to chocolate bar tasting parties.

“I’d like to concentrate more on the bean to bar, you know, making my own chocolate and doing more with that,” he said. “Just finding new, unique, and creative flavors to put out for my customers to enjoy.”

  • Meeteetse Chocolatier Tim Kellogg rides his horse during the fall.
    Meeteetse Chocolatier Tim Kellogg rides his horse during the fall. (Courtesy Tim Kellogg)
  • A box of European chocolates, left, and some enrobed Santa candies.
    A box of European chocolates, left, and some enrobed Santa candies. (Courtesy Tim Kellogg)

Renée Jean can be reached at Renee@CowboyStateDaily.com.



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