MilkShake Factory, Maroons Creamery and Hey Yogurt are among the many dessert shops in downtown Ridgewood, N.J., which is seeing a shift from retail to services.
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Change sprawls constantly across the storefronts on the postcard streets of downtown Ridgewood, New Jersey.
The big avenue, East Ridgewood, cuts across streets called Walnut, Chestnut and Oak, and then abuts the train station that connects this commuter suburb to New York City. It’s a town where anything is reachable within five, 10 minutes of driving, and its center is the proverbial Main Street.
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“Ridgewood has always been known as the place to go shopping,” says Joan Groome, who has lived here since 1968, when she opened a ski shop above a family-run store selling gifts and art.
Over the years, Groome watched a wave of big-box chains sweep through Ridgewood and then a wave of banks. Local retail like hers strived and survived or went under; doors have shut on a beloved stationery store, a family-owned pharmacy, a hardware shop.
Joan Groome (right), who runs the Ridgewood Chamber of Commerce, visits a local jewelry store on Ridgewood’s main downtown avenue.
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Now a new shift is reshaping this downtown, as it has many around the U.S.: Stores that sell things are giving way to shops that sell services — spas, gyms, restaurants.
“We have now 11 barbershops in town,” says Groome, now the executive director of the Ridgewood Chamber of Commerce. Around her, on just this one block, three ice cream cafés have opened, with a milkshake shop opening soon.
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Last year marked the first time that the majority of U.S. retail space was leased to tenants selling services rather than goods, according to real estate data firm CoStar. This change is a response to changing spending habits, and it is shaking up malls, suburban shopping hubs and Main Streets nationwide.
Like many shopping centers around the U.S., downtown Ridgewood has seen an influx of services and entertainment, including 11 barbershops, dozens of coffee shops, over a hundred restaurants, medical spas and fitness studios.
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A long-term trend at play
This year, in the 20 biggest metropolitan areas, CoStar data shows retail tenants declining for the third year in a row, while personal services and entertainment are ballooning: escape rooms and virtual golfing, medical spas and Pilates studios.
“Over the very long term, consumers have switched a lot of spending from retail goods to services in terms of share of wallet,” says John Mercer, who tracks the state of retail at the analytics firm Coresight Research. “We think that that kind of long-term pattern will continue.”
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Pallavi Doddakashi (left) browses plants with the help of Carla Sabbagh (center), the manager of Sunroom Plants, and another shopper, Katherine Arsho Baharyan.
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This shift was temporarily interrupted by the lockdowns of the coronavirus pandemic but has since roared back. And it’s generally fueled by the wealthier spenders, though Mercer says surveys also suggest that some people choose to trade down to cheaper goods to redirect that saved money to services, for outings and experiences.
Much of the change is driven by what’s on trend: wellness, beauty, fitness. And, of course, online shopping plays a huge role: When any purchase is a click away, people who physically go out to shop are often looking for more — for fun, an activity.
As Groome puts it: “You can’t stroll Amazon.”
People walk by Tatte Bakery & Café, a trendy regional chain that recently opened a location in Ridgewood’s downtown.
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Math is different for a mall vs. downtown
The building where Groome once had her ski shop is now a sushi spot. Her old bank — complete with the preserved vault and deposit boxes — is an Italian-inspired restaurant with a rooftop bar. Plenty of Ridgewood stores still sell things — clothes, shoes, home decor, antiques — but there are also over a hundred eateries, dozens of coffee shops, spas, salons, a stretching studio.
A trendy bakery recently opened across the street from Bookends, a small bookstore with a basement for book signings, which has been open since the 1980s. Store manager David Logan says the new neighbor has brought him new business.
David Logan, who manages a bookstore called Bookends, says he has seen new business since a trendy bakery opened across the street.
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“People walk out of there, and I’ve got my door open, so they see we’re open,” he says. Many leave the café straight for Bookends, he says. Often, it’s mothers with little children, who linger in the kids section with activity books and Legos.
This is how the shift toward more services has played out in some of the busier malls. Shopping centers have been adding arcades, gyms and even health clinics as a way to draw people more regularly. But the math is less straightforward for downtowns, where a new eatery or gym tends to replace a shop, so more services often mean fewer shops.
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“Because there’s not as much retail,” Logan says, “people are basically coming in just to go to the restaurant, and they may not necessarily walk around town.”
People browse at Bookends, a retailer that has been part of Ridgewood since the 1980s.
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Can’t stroll down Instagram either
A few doors down, behind the counter of her jewelry store, Gina Jeon is also conflicted.
“I wonder if a town changing from beautiful boutique shops to more food and services — I wonder if that enriches the value of the town or takes away from it,” she says.
Jeon’s shop, Hot Jewelry Box, is an explosion of crystals and gemstones, silver and gold. She custom-makes jewelry by hand, letting shoppers pick their designs, and rearranges a section of the store every day — trying to give people reasons to visit, in person, again and again.
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Jeon thinks more beautiful shops get people to shop more, while more restaurants don’t. As she talks, she’s hooking a charm onto a beaded chain for shopper Kate Ulrich, who’s here for the second time in two days, to buy a green-and-red version of the necklace she’d previously bought in blue, green and white.
Gina Jeon says she rearranges a section of her store, Hot Jewelry Box, every day — one of the ways she tries to give people reasons to return and shop in person.
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“I just like it because you can kind of mix and match your own, and you don’t have to pay these like crazy internet prices that we’re all duped into paying,” Ulrich says. “It’s like they just upcharge everything on Instagram because you see it, you love it, you have to have it.”
Ulrich grew up down the highway and came to Jeon’s shop as a child, when the store first opened two decades ago. Now she drives a half hour to Ridgewood to see her sister, who recently moved here with family, and they do exactly what local shop owners hope.
“It’s fun to kind of walk the stroller up and down the street,” Ulrich says. “You can kind of peer into everywhere because … it’s something to do.”
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They snack and shop, buying things and little treats along the way — maybe some of that endlessly available ice cream — strolling, which you cannot do on Instagram either.
Phinehas Yoon, Akira Jackson, Noah Toth in It Ends.
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Have you ever been on a road trip that feels like it goes on forever and things started getting a bit existential? That’s the whole deal with the chewy new film It Ends. The horror-meets-psychological thriller follows four friends who just graduated college, as they turn onto a road through a dense forest and the road just keeps going. Directed by Alexander Ullom, It Ends is both chill and chilling, and a lot of fun to talk about.
Chasing down your next horror fix? Check out these episodes:
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The three of us had just moved to Los Angeles: my girlfriend, our cat and me. We arrived here to chase dreams. I quit my corporate career in New York City and gave up a rent-controlled apartment in Jersey City. Not only that, I also somehow convinced the landlord to reduce the rent. I came here to pursue acting and writing full time, which sounded either inspirational or financially irresponsible depending on the day. Sometimes both on the same day.
“Where do you want to go for dinner?” my girlfriend asked on a Friday night in early February.
“Somewhere walkable,” I said. Even though this was our first month in L.A., I worried about parking despite the fact that we didn’t own a car yet. I’m an immigrant from New Delhi, and Monica, my girlfriend is white and American. To give you an idea, she is so white she “introduced” me, an Indian man, to ashwagandha.
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We sat by the window at Mantee Café, a Lebanese and Armenian restaurant in Studio City. It’s a quiet place lit by soft yellow light. At the table beside us sat a family of three: an elderly couple and their adult son, who had the restless energy of someone forced to sit at the dinner table against his will.
When their food arrived, he looked at the plate and screamed: “This is garbage.”
Monica and I exchanged looks, not sure what was happening. His parents sat in silence. I felt sorry for them. They looked disappointed and apologetic.
“Take this back to your country, wherever you’re from,” he yelled.
It was not the first time I had witnessed a customer yelling at waitstaff. However, this particular moment made me think of the aviation systems engineer from India who was shot dead in a bar in Kansas the year prior. Before shooting him, the man said, “Go back to your country.” But he didn’t give him an option. Back on our table, I wondered if the guy would pick me next. His parents looked down, and their shoulders dropped.
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Monica looked at the stranger. “You’re being disrespectful,” she said, “and loud. You should be ashamed of yourself.”
Everything went silent. In the kitchen, the staff stopped moving. A few nervous hushes floated across the place. The man looked taken aback. I braced for a fight and put my hands flat on the table. After a few more tense moments of silence, he mumbled under his breath and left. One, two, three, we all exhaled at once. A room full of strangers finally letting go of the breath we’d been holding since he first started screaming.
I wanted to tell Monica I was proud, but my throat felt tight. We tried to perform the rest of our dinner like normal people as if nothing had happened. But I couldn’t enjoy the kebabs. My fork hovered aimlessly over the plate while my eyes stayed fixed on the entrance. I expected the guy to return, and this time, pick a fight with Monica or me. A little later, the waiter and manager came to our table.
“Thank you,” the waiter said and smiled. He must have been relieved to be supported by a guest.
“This one’s on the house,” the manager said and placed a plate of baklava between us. I kept my eyes at the door. He didn’t come back. We finished the dessert in silence. Outside on Ventura Boulevard traffic moved both ways. We paid for dinner. The manager and the waiter thanked us again.
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On our walk home Monica apologized for “creating a scene.”
She was the only person who acted sane and brave that night. Did I not speak because I didn’t have to? Or because I didn’t want it to escalate? I’ve always avoided confrontation.
But that night, back at home, I stayed restless for not speaking up. I was there physically and ready to fight back, but I didn’t find any words. My instinct told me to let it pass, but Monica acted to interrupt it and call it out. And yet somehow she worried she had been the disruptive one for facing a man who screamed racist abuse across a restaurant.
How often have I paid the price of politeness and let terrible people get away? After I fed the cat, I continued wondering what I could do about it, and in a fit of frustration, I wrote a satirical list titled, “When Is It Okay to Yell at Your Restaurant Server for Poor Service?,” and sent it to McSweeney’s.
A few days later, early in the morning, I got the acceptance email while I scrolled through my phone. I wanted to jump in celebration. I showed the acceptance email to Monica.
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It became my first-ever published piece of writing. I couldn’t have imagined or written to get published this way. What Monica did, following her instincts, at dinner, I started to do on the page — confront the uncomfortable head-on. Humor has always been how I process life. Monica, in her own way, made me feel brave enough to write with honesty about these moments in our lives while using humor.
Writing a satirical piece didn’t erase what happened, but it gave me an outlet to act. That night, I saw Monica differently. I was lucky to be with her. I learned how love can also be about witnessing the person beside you become brave first.
I had quit my corporate life and moved to L.A. to pursue a career in entertainment. I was still unsure how the city would treat me. That night, somewhere between a racist stranger, a free dessert, my girlfriend publicly shaming a man in a Mediterranean restaurant and our demanding cat, the City of Angels started to feel like home.
The author is a Los Angeles-based actor, writer and creativity coach. An immigrant from India, he is at work on a collection of essays and a book on the creative process. His website is mayurchauhanstory.com, and he’s on Instagram: @mayurchauhanstory.
L.A. Affairs chronicles the search for romantic love in all its glorious expressions in the L.A. area, and we want to hear your true story. We pay $400 for a published essay. Email LAAffairs@latimes.com. You can find submission guidelines here. You can find past columns here.
Carla Lalli’s latest cookbook wants you to eat your feelings.
After the end of her decades-long marriage, Lalli — the former Bon Appétit editor whose cooking videos and cookbooks made her one of the internet’s favorite chefs — knew she had to do one thing: write about it. What emerged is Food is a Feeling, a collection of stories and recipes processing this moment in her life.
From figuring out a meal for two to deconstructing the ‘guilt’ behind ‘guilty pleasures,’ Carla joins the show to get into the pleasure of making, eating, and enjoying one of life’s most delicious necessities.
Support public media with NPR+ and enjoy perks for over 25 podcasts like this one. This show’s perks include sponsor-free listening. Learn more at plus.npr.org.
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This episode was produced by Alexis Williams. The video was edited by Maya Dangerfield and Pablo Valdivia. It was edited by Nick Michael. Our Executive Producer is Barton Girdwood. Our VP of Programming is Yolanda Sangweni.
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