On the seventh floor of a building in the Fashion District, Bryan Hearns shows me to his studio, where containers brim with colorful rhinestones, walls are adorned with zippers, chains and pliers, and rainbow fabrics and leathers pile on the floor. Hearns describes the space to me as “reflecting the chaos.”
Hearns has been creating stylish looks with hardware for more than 15 years. He’s the face behind many celebrity looks, including those of Mariah Carey, Ariana Grande, Kylie Jenner and, most notably, Cardi B, whom he started working closely with in 2017 during her “Motorsport” music video, for which he designed a patchwork motorcycle-inspired outfit. Since then, Hearns has become a key collaborator in Cardi B’s fashion image, creating custom looks for performances, red carpet moments and, most recently, her Met Gala after-party look, which was a sheer illusion gown with a sculpted corset bodice embellished with lace detailing, a piece taken from his new collection.
For his 14th collection, Hearns took an eclectic approach while keeping his signature hardware aesthetic. From darker, grungy looks composed of fur, leather straps, metal rings and dazzling chain accessories to elegantly beaded ombre dresses, the clothes — in Hearns’ words — combine all elements that he thinks are “cool”: “leather, lace, hardware, sexiness, edginess and fun.”
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Haylee and Kenady wear Bryan Hearns dresses and Aldo shoes with Bryan Hearns customization.
Madison Everlith: So first off, why fashion? What was it about fashion that made you apply to the Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising?
Bryan Hearns: It’s kind of multilayered. I like to create, I always did my own Halloween costumes, I played with Legos, the Sims — I just like making stuff in general. Originally I wanted to be an architect but the math in architecture is crazy, so I was like, “What else could I do?” And then I thought about graphic design because I was too shy to do fashion design since I wasn’t out yet, but then I decided to just go for it and apply as a fashion designer.
ME: So from the beginning, you knew that you wanted to do something that revolved around creating. What was it like going to fashion school?
BH: I didn’t know how to sew when I went, but I learned everything really fast. Every class you’re learning how to do different things, so you could be learning how to make a mock neck or a skirt, and I would subconsciously make them all match and by the end I’d have a collection.
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ME: Were you working with hardware then as well?
BH: Yeah, I was actually featured in a publication, and they called me the “hardware king.” I wasn’t able to get downtown so I would go to Home Depot and buy rings and bolts and I would just put them on the clothes and build things around it. I’ve always loved hardware.
ME: Do you think if location and money weren’t a factor you would have still worked with hardware, or would you have experimented more?
Kenady wears Bryan Hearns top, skirt, and headpiece and Aldo shoes with Bryan Hearns customization. Haylee wears Bryan Hearns dress and necklace and Aldo shoes with Bryan Hearns customization.
BH: I honestly think having less money makes you more creative — you can do way more with less. I would make a yard of fabric stretch and add cheaper fabrics to it and make it patchwork. I would have $20 and ask myself, “What can I do with this?” I like nicer fabrics now, but they don’t have to be super expensive. I’m in the Fashion District so I have more access to fabric, which is helpful because we do a lot of last-minute projects.
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ME: Do you work well under pressure?
BH: I actually only work under pressure. If I have an outfit done ahead of time, I’ll change it a million times before it’s due.
ME: Was there a moment in fashion school when you realized you were absolutely sure fashion design was what you wanted to pursue as a career?
BH: It’s kind of twofold with that, because when I was in school, my friends and I were constantly told we weren’t going to have a job after graduation due to the 2008 financial crisis, but I knew I would have a career. I did my own thing after, and it worked. You could get fired from someone else, but you can’t get fired if you work for yourself. You have your own journey and there’s no ceiling. However hard you work is how hard you can go.
ME: You lived in New York for about a year and a half. NYC and L.A. are different but still similar in the sense that they’re two of the largest fashion capitals in the world. What was the difference between working in L.A. versus working in NYC?
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BH: Working in New York is harder. You have to schlep around while it’s raining, snowing or just hot. Here [in L.A.], it’s constant. Other than the physicality of it, I do think the fabric selection in New York is nicer, but I wouldn’t be able to do it to the scale I do here.
ME: Would you ever do a fashion week, and if so would you do Paris, L.A. or NYC?
BH: I would love New York. I do feel like my girl is a city girl. She’s going out, she’s having fun, she’s young, not as fancy. I love Paris, but I think Paris is more couture.
Kenady wears Bryan Hearns dress, necklace, and headpiece and Aldo shoes with Bryan Hearns customization. Haylee wears Bryan Hearns bra, top, and headpiece and Aldo shoes with Bryan Hearns customization.
ME: What was the process of creating this collection like?
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BH: The two beaded dresses took over a month because every bead was hand beaded and sewn on. The process changed a lot as it went on because as I started making things, my inspiration and the vibe would change, but I do that a lot when I make collections. I’ll have initial inspiration and then it’ll morph into something else as I start creating it. I always take something from the last collection and carry it on. For this one it was a leather bra.
ME: What inspired this collection?
BH: This was kind of inspired by “Game of Thrones.” That’s how it started. I rewatched all of “Game of Thrones” at once, and then I was like, “Ooh, I should do hardware and this and that.” I created a mood board and kept some elements like the leather, the face pieces and the hardware, but it changed into a slightly softer aesthetic.
ME: What was the most challenging part of that process?
BH: Well, because I’m a Libra, I can never decide the direction of anything, so with this collection I really had to pinpoint what I needed to do to finish it and make it look cohesive, and that was the hardest part.
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ME: Were there any themes you were going for in the photoshoot?
BH: It was very unintentionally giving “mermaid leaves water.”
ME: What’s the story behind the collection?
BH: It’s a story of survival. The looks are giving armor — not necessarily metal armor, but you have the fur, the leather, all the straps and headpieces, and it’s kind of like you’re protecting yourself.
Kenady wears Bryan Hearns blindfold, jacket and skirt and Aldo shoes with Bryan Hearns customization. Haylee wears Bryan Hearns blindfold and dress and Aldo shoes with Bryan Hearns customization.
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ME: What do you hope this new collection says about you as a designer?
BH: I hope it’ll make people say, “Oh, wow! He can do fashion,” because I’m mainly known for doing stage costume and performance wear, and I really want people to be like, “Wait, he’s a fashion designer.”
ME: You’ve stated before that you don’t design to be trendy. In a fashion world of ever-evolving trends, how do you stay true to your own vision?
BH: Everything is always in, it just depends on how it’s done. You can still wear something that’s trendy, but how you style it is what makes it a different vibe. I was looking at vintage pieces and I was like, “All this stuff you could wear today.” It just depends on how you wear it. It’s still important to be relevant in a way, but it’s more about aesthetics.
ME: You’ve talked about this idea of the Bryan Hearns woman and how she’s a memorable, bold, sexy, feminist trendsetter. Is this idea of the Bryan Hearns woman still the same, or has that evolved over the years?
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BH: I think it’s still the same, but it’s also evolved in a sense of she’s more sure of who she is and she doesn’t want to be anyone else.
ME: Do you embody the Bryan Hearns woman as a designer?
BH: For sure. I’ve been doing it for so long, I know a little more than I did when I was younger.
Photography Alfredo Llamas Styling and Creative Direction Bryan Hearns Hair Nena Melendez Makeup Selena Ruiz Production Cecilia Alvarez Blackwell Lighting Technician Max Flick Talent Kenady Jensen, Haylee Mack
Phinehas Yoon, Akira Jackson, Noah Toth in It Ends.
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Have you ever been on a road trip that feels like it goes on forever and things started getting a bit existential? That’s the whole deal with the chewy new film It Ends. The horror-meets-psychological thriller follows four friends who just graduated college, as they turn onto a road through a dense forest and the road just keeps going. Directed by Alexander Ullom, It Ends is both chill and chilling, and a lot of fun to talk about.
Chasing down your next horror fix? Check out these episodes:
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The three of us had just moved to Los Angeles: my girlfriend, our cat and me. We arrived here to chase dreams. I quit my corporate career in New York City and gave up a rent-controlled apartment in Jersey City. Not only that, I also somehow convinced the landlord to reduce the rent. I came here to pursue acting and writing full time, which sounded either inspirational or financially irresponsible depending on the day. Sometimes both on the same day.
“Where do you want to go for dinner?” my girlfriend asked on a Friday night in early February.
“Somewhere walkable,” I said. Even though this was our first month in L.A., I worried about parking despite the fact that we didn’t own a car yet. I’m an immigrant from New Delhi, and Monica, my girlfriend is white and American. To give you an idea, she is so white she “introduced” me, an Indian man, to ashwagandha.
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We sat by the window at Mantee Café, a Lebanese and Armenian restaurant in Studio City. It’s a quiet place lit by soft yellow light. At the table beside us sat a family of three: an elderly couple and their adult son, who had the restless energy of someone forced to sit at the dinner table against his will.
When their food arrived, he looked at the plate and screamed: “This is garbage.”
Monica and I exchanged looks, not sure what was happening. His parents sat in silence. I felt sorry for them. They looked disappointed and apologetic.
“Take this back to your country, wherever you’re from,” he yelled.
It was not the first time I had witnessed a customer yelling at waitstaff. However, this particular moment made me think of the aviation systems engineer from India who was shot dead in a bar in Kansas the year prior. Before shooting him, the man said, “Go back to your country.” But he didn’t give him an option. Back on our table, I wondered if the guy would pick me next. His parents looked down, and their shoulders dropped.
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Monica looked at the stranger. “You’re being disrespectful,” she said, “and loud. You should be ashamed of yourself.”
Everything went silent. In the kitchen, the staff stopped moving. A few nervous hushes floated across the place. The man looked taken aback. I braced for a fight and put my hands flat on the table. After a few more tense moments of silence, he mumbled under his breath and left. One, two, three, we all exhaled at once. A room full of strangers finally letting go of the breath we’d been holding since he first started screaming.
I wanted to tell Monica I was proud, but my throat felt tight. We tried to perform the rest of our dinner like normal people as if nothing had happened. But I couldn’t enjoy the kebabs. My fork hovered aimlessly over the plate while my eyes stayed fixed on the entrance. I expected the guy to return, and this time, pick a fight with Monica or me. A little later, the waiter and manager came to our table.
“Thank you,” the waiter said and smiled. He must have been relieved to be supported by a guest.
“This one’s on the house,” the manager said and placed a plate of baklava between us. I kept my eyes at the door. He didn’t come back. We finished the dessert in silence. Outside on Ventura Boulevard traffic moved both ways. We paid for dinner. The manager and the waiter thanked us again.
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On our walk home Monica apologized for “creating a scene.”
She was the only person who acted sane and brave that night. Did I not speak because I didn’t have to? Or because I didn’t want it to escalate? I’ve always avoided confrontation.
But that night, back at home, I stayed restless for not speaking up. I was there physically and ready to fight back, but I didn’t find any words. My instinct told me to let it pass, but Monica acted to interrupt it and call it out. And yet somehow she worried she had been the disruptive one for facing a man who screamed racist abuse across a restaurant.
How often have I paid the price of politeness and let terrible people get away? After I fed the cat, I continued wondering what I could do about it, and in a fit of frustration, I wrote a satirical list titled, “When Is It Okay to Yell at Your Restaurant Server for Poor Service?,” and sent it to McSweeney’s.
A few days later, early in the morning, I got the acceptance email while I scrolled through my phone. I wanted to jump in celebration. I showed the acceptance email to Monica.
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It became my first-ever published piece of writing. I couldn’t have imagined or written to get published this way. What Monica did, following her instincts, at dinner, I started to do on the page — confront the uncomfortable head-on. Humor has always been how I process life. Monica, in her own way, made me feel brave enough to write with honesty about these moments in our lives while using humor.
Writing a satirical piece didn’t erase what happened, but it gave me an outlet to act. That night, I saw Monica differently. I was lucky to be with her. I learned how love can also be about witnessing the person beside you become brave first.
I had quit my corporate life and moved to L.A. to pursue a career in entertainment. I was still unsure how the city would treat me. That night, somewhere between a racist stranger, a free dessert, my girlfriend publicly shaming a man in a Mediterranean restaurant and our demanding cat, the City of Angels started to feel like home.
The author is a Los Angeles-based actor, writer and creativity coach. An immigrant from India, he is at work on a collection of essays and a book on the creative process. His website is mayurchauhanstory.com, and he’s on Instagram: @mayurchauhanstory.
L.A. Affairs chronicles the search for romantic love in all its glorious expressions in the L.A. area, and we want to hear your true story. We pay $400 for a published essay. Email LAAffairs@latimes.com. You can find submission guidelines here. You can find past columns here.
Carla Lalli’s latest cookbook wants you to eat your feelings.
After the end of her decades-long marriage, Lalli — the former Bon Appétit editor whose cooking videos and cookbooks made her one of the internet’s favorite chefs — knew she had to do one thing: write about it. What emerged is Food is a Feeling, a collection of stories and recipes processing this moment in her life.
From figuring out a meal for two to deconstructing the ‘guilt’ behind ‘guilty pleasures,’ Carla joins the show to get into the pleasure of making, eating, and enjoying one of life’s most delicious necessities.
Support public media with NPR+ and enjoy perks for over 25 podcasts like this one. This show’s perks include sponsor-free listening. Learn more at plus.npr.org.
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This episode was produced by Alexis Williams. The video was edited by Maya Dangerfield and Pablo Valdivia. It was edited by Nick Michael. Our Executive Producer is Barton Girdwood. Our VP of Programming is Yolanda Sangweni.
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