Lifestyle
From Dubai to Warsaw, Women Are Forming Their Own Watch Clubs

In late 2019, Irina Ciobanu, the advertising and marketing supervisor for Elie Saab Timepieces on the BlackBox luxurious company, was charged with producing feminine curiosity within the 28-piece assortment that the Lebanese dressmaker was to introduce in 2021.
“There are a variety of ladies within the watch trade and gathering watches, however once I checked out watch golf equipment, it was males, males, males, males, males. And cigars,” Ms. Ciobanu stated on a video interview from Dubai, United Arab Emirates, the place she relies. “I used to be shocked, however I additionally wasn’t shocked that nobody had linked these women.”
So on March 8, 2020 — Worldwide Girls’s Day — Ms. Ciobanu created the Women Watch Membership on Instagram. Now, round 300 posts later, it has about 10,400 followers in addition to an internet site, a weekly e-newsletter and bodily conferences on occasion. The group just isn’t affiliated along with her job, however is what she described as “a ardour, a passion and a dream.”
“I like to have these sorts of networking experiences the place everybody has completely different watches and comes from completely different backgrounds,” stated Ms. Ciobanu, 33, who was born in Moldova and began working within the watch trade in 2017.
At the same time as watch manufacturers sharpen their deal with feminine consumers and the sorts of watches they need at present, ladies from the Center East to Japanese Europe are forming watch golf equipment to share their timepieces, community and simply get pleasure from each other’s firm.
Though they often agree that the pandemic has been an actual obstacle.
“It was the worst time to start out a membership,” stated Karina Kwiatkowska, who based the Omega Women Membership in Warsaw in March 2019. Ms. Kwiatkowska, 29, stated she deliberate after which canceled a number of in-person occasions, “as a result of 2020 was already Covid and in accordance with regulation solely 10 % of any restaurant might be open. However then we pivoted to WhatsApp and that’s been nice.”
As for Ms. Ciobanu, throughout lockdowns she discovered herself nightly on the audio-only social community Clubhouse, interacting with watch collectors and types from all around the world. “One of many causes I grew followers was as a result of I used to be one of many few ladies displaying virtually each night,” she stated.
In between surges in Dubai, Ms. Ciobanu accepted invites to fulfill with representatives of Vacheron Constantin and Roger Dubuis, each manufacturers that she stated had been keen to construct relationships, present their collections and plan occasions for when the world reopened. In November 2020, IWC invited her and a handful of membership members to a personal breakfast at a lodge, One&Solely The Palm.
Over croissants, espresso and the Dubai skyline, “we tried on the newly launched in Dubai Portofino assortment, linked in individual and obtained to really feel all the things,” stated Ilaria Chirico, 39, an architect who focuses on retailer design and a membership member since September 2020. “I used to be pleasantly shocked that they introduced males’s watches, too, as a result of I attempted all of them on.”
In mid-December final yr, Ms. Ciobanu welcomed membership members to a small occasion with TimeValée, a multibrand watch boutique owned by Richemont that has 24 areas in 4 international locations. “It was a small celebration only for us,” she stated. “That’s how we had been in a position to get collectively in individual whereas nonetheless obeying the Covid mandates. Every thing has been non-public and small.”
As restrictions proceed to ease, she is making ready a collection of month-to-month meetups — with a feminine consultant from a special model at each to speak about watches and firm historical past — and finalizing plans for occasions on the Vacheron Constantin and Jaeger-LeCoultre boutiques in Dubai.
A Completely different Strategy
Whereas the watchmaking trade has used varied strategies to entice feminine collectors, from creating sex-specific fashions to abolishing binary gender strains altogether, ladies in watch golf equipment say little consideration has been paid to wooing the younger, prosperous feminine collector on a private and relatable degree.
It’s one thing that would have an effect on manufacturers’ backside strains. Experiences from each Bain & Firm and Deloitte discovered that prospects born from the Nineteen Eighties via the early 2010s, would develop into 70 % of the worldwide luxurious market by 2025. And they’re pushing manufacturers to develop into delicate to gender equality, in accordance with Deloitte’s 2020 International Powers of Luxurious Items research.
“Girls are undervalued in the case of timepieces,” stated Marwa Mentioned, 33, including that she has been all in favour of horology for half her life. So when she got here throughout Ms. Ciobanu’s membership on-line, she determined to emulate it by creating the Omani Women Watch Membership on Instagram in September.
“Girls right here actually love watches,” stated Ms. Mentioned, who lives in Muscat. “They put on males’s watches quite a bit they usually see it as a chunk of knickknack, myself included. I can’t hold the identical watch on for greater than a day.”
She now counts roughly 25 timepieces in her assortment, together with two Richard Milles and 12 Rolexes, two of which — a Rainbow Sapphire Daytona Chronograph and Woman Datejust — that made fairly a splashy on-line debut on the membership’s Instagram feed. All of her timepieces had been items from her husband, Mohamed Faiq Al Lawati, a jeweler and watch designer.
Ms. Mentioned usually meets along with her buddies for what she known as “dessert and wristies” for the membership’s Instagram feed: casual images of watches and the day’s equipment, which have included different bracelets, sometimes purses and even the inside of their autos.
With 11,000 followers after solely six months, Ms. Mentioned stated there had been an awesome quantity of curiosity from quite a lot of folks. Girls wish to be a part of the membership; Ms. Mentioned receives a number of affords on the timepieces she posts every day, although they don’t seem to be on the market; and watch manufacturers have been desperate to collaborate.
Lately, Ms. Mentioned defined {that a} watch and jewellery boutique in Oman had contacted her a couple of partnership. “I have already got 10 folks all in favour of a watch they haven’t even seen,” she stated. “We’re speaking about including initials, the brand of the membership and having particular colours.”
Ms. Mentioned is devoted to growing consciousness of feminine watch gathering. “While you go to boutiques they offer extra consideration to males,” she stated. “I really feel like folks speak about males watch collectors however you by no means hear about ladies. In reality, right here, ladies have extra watches than males.”
Invites of Their Personal
“It was so long as it had diamonds on it, it was only a piece of knickknack,” Alexander Schmiedt, model president of Vacheron Constantin Americas, stated throughout a video interview. “Now there are women who love watches for his or her completely different design and magnificence components, who love exploring a model.”
Vacheron Constantin hosted a cocktail and try-on occasion for Beth Tee, a former dance health teacher turned YouTube creator and watch collector, on the 4,500-square-foot New York flagship in early December. “Watch gathering is open to anybody; it’s 80 % male for us proper now, however giving this chance for girls solely makes a variety of sense,” Mr. Schmiedt stated.
Whereas Ms. Tee dealt with the visitor listing of 35, which included fellow feminine collectors in addition to a few of her 13,500 subscribers, Mr. Schmiedt prompt that it’s an completely feminine occasion.
“The husbands are usually invited to events,” Ms. Tee stated. “We’re the arm sweet, the afterthought, and that tends to irk me.”
So, on the occasion, “we had been our personal purchasers,” she stated. “We tried on no matter we wished and had the area to ask the associates no matter questions we wished with out fear.”
Mr. Schmiedt acknowledged that the casual gathering had been “very completely different” from Vacheron’s traditional strategy to a male-focused occasion, which typically has a single theme and can be what he described as “structured and technical.”
Though there are ladies who do respect the technical elements of watch design, that strategy was precisely what prompted Ms. Kwiatkowska to start out her Omega membership in Warsaw.
“What is going on proper now throughout the watch trade, it’s nonetheless very technical and guys wish to know if in case you have the information or the reference quantity however I don’t suppose that’s related for ladies,” Ms. Kwiatkowska stated. “I feel there are ladies who see stunning timepieces with out a higher curiosity and that’s creating a brand new chapter for the watch trade.”
For instance, Ms. Kwiatkowska inherited her love of horology from her mom, who is also a collector — and whereas she has purchased 11 watches, she stated she wears solely 4, all of them Omegas. What she calls her signature watch is an Omega De Ville Ladymatic metal with a Tahitian mother-of-pearl face and diamond dial with an asymmetrical bracelet.
Her membership has grown to just about 9,000 Instagram followers and a WhatsApp group of fifty, and Ms. Kwiatkowska considers it a protected area to debate not solely watches but additionally life, travels and clothes.
“Crucial factor is to create an inclusive atmosphere,” she stated, including, “Many younger women ship me DMs saying they’re shopping for themselves their first watch they usually have questions or need my opinion.” It’s one thing the analysis firm proprietor stated she was pleased to offer.
As Ms. Ciobanu stated about ladies and watches: “It’s not only a man’s world the place we is not going to get entangled. We will certainly get entangled. We already are.”

Lifestyle
Street Style Look of the Week: Colorful Shoes

The sisters Rebecca Meskel, left, and Matilda Meskel laughed after I pointed out that they were both wearing vibrantly colored shoes when we met outside The Broken Arm, a clothing store in Paris, on a Saturday in February. As Matilda explained, it’s not everyday that either of them wears bright, poppy shoes. “It was a random choice and then we realized they looked like ketchup and mustard,” she said.
The sisters said they are from London and that Rebecca, 24, is studying law, while Matilda, 18, is studying fine art. They were having an afternoon coffee and tea and said they had plans to see “A Complete Unknown,” the Bob Dylan biopic, later that day.
Along with her tomato red ballet flats, Matilda was wearing a coat that belonged to their grandfather, a skirt that belonged to their grandmother and a sweater that belonged to their mother. Describing their style philosophies, Rebecca said hers was functional and that “Matilda is much more creative than me because she’s in the art field.”
Lifestyle
Can Breitling Revitalise Watchmaking’s Troubled Middle Market?

Lifestyle
Amber Glenn Is Carving a New Path for Figure Skaters

When Amber Glenn was named the top U.S. women’s figure skater for a second consecutive year in January, she collapsed in tears, releasing mountains of pressure that had been weighing on her chiseled shoulders.
This week, she is aiming to add another gold medal to her pile at the World Figure Skating Championships in Boston. If she pulls it off, Ms. Glenn would finish her season an undefeated champion and become the first American figure skater to claim the women’s World Championship title in almost 20 years.
It would be Ms. Glenn’s biggest win yet, but only the latest in a series of firsts for a woman who has landed the triple axel jump in all of her competitions this season — one that, for Ms. Glenn, has been filled with triumph and tragedy after a plane crash in January killed 11 figure skaters, some of whom she had shared the ice with just days before they died.
If Ms. Glenn wins or even medals at Worlds, she will be the first openly L.G.B.T.Q. woman to do so in a sport whose female athletes largely tend to mold their likenesses to that of a cookie-cutter ice queen.
Ms. Glenn, by contrast, has grown her profile by celebrating what makes her different.
She is a pansexual figure skater who jumps with the power of a pole-vaulter, models her hairstyles off those of brassy pop stars, collects lightsabers — and is primed to be America’s next big skating star at 25, an age when most of her peers have long retired.
A Story of Perseverance
On a Saturday evening in February, Ms. Glenn darted around the corners of the ice rink at Chelsea Piers in Manhattan at double-digit speeds as her short-program music — “This Time” by Janet Jackson — blared from loudspeakers. She was in New York to fine-tune some of her choreography before the World Championships this month.
Ms. Glenn’s girlish freckles were offset by graphic winged eyeliner and blond hair that trailed behind her like a parachute as she skated.
Earlier that day, Ms. Glenn said in an interview that the last eight months had “been a lot.” She began training for the current season last spring and won her first gold medal last September at the Lombardia Trophy competition in Bergamo, Italy.
She has not stopped winning since. Over the course of several weeks last November and December, Ms. Glenn traversed the globe numerous times, earning first place in three major competitions that included the Grand Prix Final in Grenoble, France, where on Dec. 7 she became the first American woman to be crowned champion in 14 years.
Two weeks later, she clinched gold at Nationals in Wichita, Kan., by a slim margin.
But Ms. Glenn’s career, which began more than two decades ago at an ice rink inside a shopping mall, has not been a linear ride to the top.
At 14, she became the U.S. junior women’s champion. About a year later, Ms. Glenn was hospitalized for depression and anxiety, which stopped her from skating for five months. At the time, she was also restricting her eating — consuming one or two Lean Cuisine meals a day. In more recent years, she has suffered multiple severe concussions and has been haunted by mistakes, like missed jumps, that she has attributed to anxiety. It has not helped that many of her injuries and stumbles have played out on live television.
Terry Gannon, an NBC sports commentator who has called nationally televised figure-skating events since the 1990s, attributed Ms. Glenn’s successes this season to perseverance.
“I feel like I have lived this journey with her and watched her through the years knowing she had the ability but coming up short,” said Mr. Gannon, who described Ms. Glenn’s story as emotionally satisfying to viewers. “Now we see her break through at the highest level,” he added.
Her winning season harks back to the time when American skaters like Dorothy Hamill and Michelle Kwan dominated the sport. As a rising star of women’s singles, figure skating’s marquee event, Ms. Glenn has created some fresh buzz in the run-up to next year’s Milan-Cortina Winter Olympics. “It’s hugely important to the success of American skating to have a star who has a chance to win” at the Olympics, Mr. Gannon said.
Sasha Cohen was the last American to do so, earning a silver medal at the Turin Winter Olympics in 2006. If Ms. Glenn’s winning streak carries into next year, when Team USA skaters are determined, the country may have its next best chance at an Olympic medal.
Mastering the Triple Axel
On the ice, Ms. Glenn has become known for certain hallmarks: Landing jumps with her arms stretched vertically in a dramatic V-shape, wearing the dark lipstick of a prima ballerina, performing with a mane of multiple ponytails that she says is inspired by the pop star Kesha.
While she skates with an easy elegance, her approach to the sport has often been described using words like “explosive” and “aggressive.” “That is usually a trademark of men’s skating, they are allowed to be aggressive and muscled,” said Kaitlyn Weaver, 35, a champion ice dancer and two-time Olympian who is now a choreographer for Ms. Glenn.
Ms. Glenn said she had leaned into athleticism rather than “conforming to look smaller.” This approach is embodied by her embrace of the triple axel, a feat in which skaters hurl themselves face-forward into the air and rotate 1,260 degrees before landing backward on a single foot. Ms. Glenn has been the only women’s skater of her level to land a ratified triple axel this season in international competition, according to the International Skating Union.
Ms. Glenn’s free skate program at last year’s World Championships began with a perfect triple axel — and ended in multiple spills onto the ice. She ultimately finished in 10th place, a result that she attributed to her anxiety flaring up during her program. “My brain didn’t know the difference between competing and having to fight a bear,” as she put it.
Last summer, Ms. Glenn began integrating neurotherapy into her two-hour practices as a way to mitigate her performance anxiety. She wires herself to a device that tracks her heart rate and brain waves, which helps visualize when her anxiety spikes.
Caroline Silby, a sport psychology consultant who works with skaters worldwide, suggested neurotherapy to Ms. Glenn. “Throughout her career, she’s always had moments of brilliance, it wasn’t like she wasn’t doing it.” Ms. Silby said. “She just wasn’t doing it consistently.”
She added, “When the whole world talks about how you can’t do the second half of your program, it’s about ‘OK, how can we get the brain to stay quiet?’”
Embracing Her Identity
Ms. Glenn’s mother, Cathlene Glenn, said there had always been hints that her daughter was different from other girls her age when she was growing up in Plano, Texas. Among them: Ms. Glenn, who began skating as a 5-year-old at the rink inside the nearby Stonebriar Centre mall, gravitated toward dinosaur toys over dolls, her mother said.
She added that, by the time Ms. Glenn had turned 8, coaches were remarking that she had exceptional talent. By 11, she had mastered every triple jump except the axel.
But in a sport in which an intermediate pair of skates can cost $800, the money required to keep Ms. Glenn skating at a high level became a source of friction for her parents. To save on lessons and rink fees, her mother worked as a nanny for a former coach of Ms. Glenn’s and at the front desk of the mall ice rink. Her father, Richard Glenn, a law enforcement officer, worked overtime and took outside jobs doing security at movie theaters and hospitals.
Ms. Glenn, for her part, said she did not tell her parents when she was outgrowing her skates. “I still have the bunions and scars to prove it,” she said.
These days, she wears pairs that can cost around $1,500 — and she gets them for free from Jackson Ultima, which uses her image in promotional campaigns.
At Chelsea Piers, her skates’ blades were pushed to the limit as she ripped into the ice with expansive lunges and razor-sharp turns. She typically practices at the Broadmoor World Arena, a U.S. Olympic training site in Colorado Springs, Colo., not far from her home in the city. Above the rink, a flag with Ms. Glenn’s name flies alongside others bearing the names of fellow American champions like Peggy Fleming.
Ms. Glenn’s reputation as a different kind of skater was bolstered in 2019, when she opened up about her pansexual identity in an article for Dallas Voice magazine. Months after it was published, she arrived at Nationals in 2020 to see dozens of fans in the stands holding the Pride flag in her honor.
Ms. Weaver, who at the time had not yet started working as a choreographer with Ms. Glenn, recalled watching the scene on TV and “weeping.” In 2021, Ms. Weaver became the first Olympic female skater to publicly come out as queer. “We work against a stereotype,” she said, likening openly queer female skaters to openly gay N.F.L. players.
Having learned to be more comfortable in her skin, Ms. Glenn now holds a pride flag when she skates a victory lap at competitions. Lately, she had been thinking about the ways she could help people like herself at a time in which Ms. Glenn said “identities are being erased.”
“Sometimes, I’m looking at the world where we are taking so many steps back,” she added. “I want to be part of the people who keep us moving forward.”
She was speaking on a video call in late February from her apartment in Colorado Springs, which Ms. Glenn shares with her dog, Uki, a schipperke who, like Ms. Glenn, has learned to spin on demand.
Tragedies Amid Triumphs
Around Ms. Glenn’s apartment are items that offer glimpses of her personality. There are lightsabers hung on a wall (she is a fan of “Star Wars”) and a cabinet filled with Magic the Gathering and Pokémon cards. Instead of real flowers, she decorates the space with Lego floral arrangements because of her travel schedule. “It’s nice to have ones that stick around,” she said.
She moved to “the Springs” in the summer of 2022, she said, to work with top coaches — and to take advantage of free physical therapy and personal training sessions offered by the area’s Olympic training site, which are subsidized by organizations including the U.S. Olympic and Paralympic Committee. It’s also the first time Ms. Glenn has lived on her own.
Her main coach, Damon Allen, said Ms. Glenn’s newly independent lifestyle has helped shift her competitive course. Mr. Allen, 51, will accompany her to the World Championships. “The preparation is the same we have been doing all year,” he said. “We are keeping it simple.”
To earn the women’s singles gold medal, she will need to defeat Kaori Sakamoto, 24, the Japanese skater who has won it the last three years.
Skaters of Ms. Sakamoto’s and Ms. Glenn’s age have historically been rare sights atop the championship podiums in women’s figure skating, a sport in which the last three Olympic gold medalists were between the ages of 15 and 17 when they won. In the wake of a doping scandal involving a 15-year-old Russian skater that rocked the Beijing Winter Olympics in 2022, the minimum age for female skaters to compete in the games was raised to 17.
At Ms. Glenn’s training rink, she refers to herself as the “fun aunt,” Mr. Allen said. Her friend Gracie Gold, 29, a retired two-time national champion who has spoken about her own struggles as a skater, jokingly said that late bloomers in the sport like Ms. Glenn were “only weird to people in skating that need to go outside and touch grass.”
“I don’t think hockey or football would be as popular if the general public was watching 14-year-old boys do it,” Ms. Gold added.
She is one of many skaters whom Ms. Glenn has fostered friendships with. Through gestures like bringing flowers to fellow athletes at practices, Ms. Glenn has tried to bolster camaraderie in a sport known for a cutthroat culture, which has been embodied by instances like the Olympian Nancy Kerrigan being clubbed in the knee in a hit ordered by a man who was then married to a rival skater.
Ms. Glenn, who was home-schooled from the second grade through her senior year of high school, said she learned social cues largely by being around other young people at the mall where she started skating.
Her kind overtures to peers were motivated by Ms. Glenn’s experiences at competitions during her early days in the sport. “I remember feeling so scared,” she said. “I thought, I don’t want to feel like this. If one day I’m able to, I want to help everyone to be comfortable.’
When the recent plane crash killed a group of 28 athletes, parents and personnel affiliated with U.S. Figure Skating, “it broke my heart,” Ms. Glenn said — especially because of what she had told some of the young skaters while practicing with them about 72 hours before the crash.
“What hit me so hard is I told them to make friends that they would have for the rest of their life,” she said.
Earlier this month, Ms. Glenn participated in Legacy on Ice, a nationally televised event honoring the victims of the plane crash. Days before, her grandmother Barbara Glenn, a longtime rink-side presence at her competitions, died.
“She loves to skate with emotion,” Ms. Glenn’s mother said. “She wants to feel her feelings out on the ice. I think that skate was very therapeutic for her.” The death of Ms. Glenn’s childhood dog, Ginger, this month was another emotional blow.
In a phone interview on Saturday, Ms. Glenn said that the grief she had lately experienced had given her a new perspective going into the World Championships.
“I get upset about my mistakes,” she said. “But there are so many other things that are more serious.”
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