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Dior’s Gateway to India

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Dior’s Gateway to India

Ah, the symbolism. On Thursday night, about 850 native and worldwide celebrities, artists, editors and influencers (and editor-influencers, since they’re more and more changing into one and the identical) gathered in Mumbai in entrance of the historic Gateway of India as multicolored lights performed on the close by Taj Mahal Palace resort and funky breezes blew in off the Arabian Sea. They have been there for the primary official Dior present within the nation, smartphones in arms to blast selfies to the world.

The archway was lined in a 12-foot-high embroidered Toran, the Hindu door hanging that historically welcomes company. The runway was divided by elaborate renderings of floral artwork and flickering lights. Outdoors, lots of of younger ladies had waited hours for a glimpse of the Thai actors and Dior company Mile and Apo. A dwell band performed. And out got here 99 seems, a paean to the nation and its artisans (and to the chance India represents as a luxurious market) within the type of a pre-fall assortment, jazzed up with some particular additions.

Even within the context of the vacation spot reveals which have proliferated since Covid restrictions lifted — Gucci in Seoul; Chanel in Dakar, Senegal; Dior Males in Giza, Egypt — it was an enormous deal. And never merely due to the hoo-ha and distance and expense concerned.

Not even due to the garments, which spliced acquainted Indian aesthetic tropes into acquainted Diorisms whereas dancing on the verge of cliché (one of many pitfalls that usually journey up Western manufacturers trying “homages” to host international locations): Suppose madras and toile de Jouy; sari-wrapped skirts and gentle jackets with Nehru collars; impartial shades that gave solution to fuchsia, marigold and chartreuse. Suppose much less Bollywood fantasy than haute world traveler, swanning by way of Agra in pearl chokers and flat sandals.

After which understand that, nonetheless, the present raised the stakes for everybody concerned.

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For most of the native company, the present was an acknowledgment of India’s significance and its aesthetic traditions, although some commentators noticed the concept that such Western approval was even fascinating as merely one other model of colonialism. “It’s a really thrilling second,” stated Sonam Babani, 31, who was one of many first Indian influencers to work with Dior when she began eight years in the past. “It’s time India is on the map within the style scene.”

The Bollywood actress Ananya Panday agreed. “I don’t suppose there may be something presumably extra iconic than this,” she stated. Whereas Indian embroiderers have lengthy equipped French luxurious homes, the connection has remained within the shadows. (And there have been allegations of exploitation within the provide chain.)

For Maria Grazia Chiuri, the creative director of Dior ladies’s put on, the present was “a dream.”

Ms. Chiuri has been concerned with India, and particularly its embroiderers, since 1992, when Vinod Maganlal Shah of the Chanakya ateliers first got here to Italy to discover working with luxurious manufacturers. On the time, Ms. Chiuri was an adjunct designer at Fendi, and, she stated, embroidery was “not very style.” Minimalism and deconstruction have been in.

However a relationship started that deepened when she arrived at Dior in 2016, and since then, Ms. Chiuri has labored usually with Karishma Swali, the creative director of the Chanakya ateliers, in addition to the nonprofit Chanakya College of Craft, which trains ladies as embroiderers (historically a male career in India). Ms. Chiuri has integrated their work into her collections, simply as she incorporates into her agenda the concept that artisans from different international locations deserve the identical platform because the petites mains of the high fashion.

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The tie-up between Chanakya and Dior was nice, stated Anuradha Mahindra, the founder and editor of Verve journal, however “the important thing can be is it actually going to develop and trickle down and maintain.”

Definitely, for the business, the present was an indication that manufacturers are as soon as once more attempting to entry the Indian luxurious market, which has lengthy dangled like a golden ring simply out of attain. It’s an financial powerhouse filled with promise and wealth that they haven’t fairly managed to penetrate, thwarted by nationwide regulation in addition to proprietary aesthetic traditions. Dior at present has solely two shops in all the nation.

And for Dior itself, the place Delphine Arnault, the eldest little one of Bernard Arnault, architect of the LVMH luxurious empire, just lately took the reins as chief government, it was a serious energy transfer.

In any case, pre-fall (which refers to collections that enter shops in Could and June) doesn’t historically get the massive touring present remedy. That’s normally reserved for cruise collections (these are those that arrive in November and December). And certainly, Dior goes to have one other massive present someday in Could for its cruise line. That’s alongside the couture collections in January and July, and the ready-to-wear in February and September. That’s a serious present, on common, each month and a half.

And that’s a big flex; an indication that the behemoth luxurious gamers could also be coming into a brand new arms race for eyeballs, experiences and a spotlight.

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In that context, this present wasn’t only a gateway to India. Like Pharrell Williams’s appointment as designer of Louis Vuitton males’s put on (Louis Vuitton being a Dior sister model within the LVMH secure), it was a gateway to the following stage of world fashiontainment. Dazzled, we’re all simply strolling by way of. What’s subsequent? Gucci on the moon?

Wager you someplace, some model is speaking about it.

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Barbara Walters forged a path for women in journalism, but not without paying a price

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Barbara Walters forged a path for women in journalism, but not without paying a price
The Rulebreaker: The Life and Times of Barbara Walters, by Susan Page

In 1976, Barbara Walters became the first woman to co-anchor a national news show on prime time television. She was only in that role for two years, but her arrival changed news media.

“She’s such a consequential figure for journalists, not just for women journalists,” biographer Susan Page says. “The path she cut is one that many of us have followed.”

Page is the Washington bureau chief at USA Today and the author of The Rulebreaker: The Life and Times of Barbara Walters. Though they never met, Page says speaking to hundreds of Walters’ friends and colleagues and watching hours of her interview tapes gave her a sense of her subject.

Page describes Walters as a fearless journalist who didn’t shy away from controversy or tough questions. She battled sexism throughout her career — especially from her first co-anchor, Harry Reasoner, who, Page says, scowled at Walters’ presence and tracked how many words she spoke on-air compared to him.

After leaving the nightly news post, Walters became known for her long-form interviews. Her conversations, which blended news and entertainment, featured a wide range of subjects, including Fidel Castro, Vladimir Putin, Richard Nixon, Monica Lewinsky, Michael Jackson and Charles Manson. In 1997, she created The View, a daily talk show with an all-women cast of co-hosts.

“One thing that I thought was interesting about Barbara Walters is that she thought all sorts of people were interesting and worth talking to,” Page says. “She really expanded the world of interviews that [national] journalists were doing to include not just presidents, but also notorious murderers.”

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For Page, Walters’ success feels personal: “It never occurred to me when I was looking at a career in journalism that I couldn’t do big interviews with important people because Barbara Walters did. … Even though I’ve been in print journalism, not TV journalism, I benefited from the battles that Barbara Walters fought.”

Interview highlights

On her family life that drove her to work hard

Understanding the source of her drive was hard to understand and I think crucial. And I decided after doing all this reporting about her that, that there was a moment that ignited the drive in Barbara Walters, and that was when her mother called her and told her that her father had attempted suicide. Her mother didn’t call an ambulance. … [Barbara] called the ambulance. [Barbara] rode in the ambulance with her father to the hospital. And she realized almost in an instant that while she was going through her first divorce, she didn’t really have a career that as of that moment, she was going to be responsible for supporting her father, who had just tried to commit suicide, her mother, who was perpetually unhappy, and her special needs sister. And that that was going to require her to get serious, to make some money and to sustain that. She always had the sense that it could all disappear in an instant.

On news co-host Harry Reasoner’s hostility about working with Walters

He was so openly contemptuous of her on the air that the director stopped doing two shots. That is a shot where you could see Harry Reasoner watching Barbara Walters speak because he was always scowling. It was so bad that they got many letters from mostly women viewers complaining about how she was being treated. … It was really an untenable situation and one that took a while to unravel, and it was one that unnerved Barbara Walters. It was the one time in her career when she thought perhaps she had made an error so great that she would not recover. She said that she felt not only like she was drowning, but that there were people trying to hold her head under the water.

On a turning point in her career, when she interviewed Fidel Castro

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So this was in 1977. She was still officially the anchor [of ABC Evening News], but things were not going well. And she landed this interview with Fidel Castro, who had been interviewed only infrequently by Western journalists. And … she got in a boat and crossed the Bay of Pigs with him. He drove his jeep across the mountains with her sitting next to him, holding aloft his gun to keep water from splashing on. It was a great interview. A very tough interview. She asked him about freedom of the press, which didn’t exist in Cuba. She pressed him on whether he was married. This was a question that he had refused to answer. … So he finally gave up and answered it and said formally, no. So it was a great interview and it was a comeback interview for her. It both showed what she could do in an interview, and it made her feel more confident again.

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On her interview with Richard Nixon when she asked him if he wished he burned the Watergate tapes

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That was in a particularly difficult interview, because the only way the Nixon people agreed that she could do it was to do it live. There was no cutting out some extraneous matter to get that last question in, she had to be incredibly alert about controlling the interview so that she would have time to ask that question. And the other thing that we should know about that question is she always wanted to ask the question that everybody wanted to hear, even the toughest question possible, like would you have burned the tapes? She wanted to ask the one that people wanted to hear the answer to. That was one of [her] great gifts. And she figured out that by preparing for hours and hours and writing down proposed questions on small 3×5 cards and shuffling them and revising them, and finally having them typed on 5×7 cards to ask. She would let an interview go where it went. She didn’t always follow the cards, but she always had a plan in mind for how she wanted to get the interview started. What she wanted to do in the middle and the thing that she wanted to do at the close to give it a real kick.

On her friendship with Donald Trump

They were transactional friends. She went to his wedding. He went to the celebration of her third marriage. He was often a guest on The View when The View started in 1997. He was then a real estate developer in New York. And if they were short a guest, they could call up Donald Trump and he would come over and be on the show or even do a cameo skit. … And, in fact, one ABC executive told me, when Donald Trump got involved in politics, that there was a feeling, some discomfort, that she had given him a platform and a legitimacy that maybe he wouldn’t have had otherwise.

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On her preparation for her infamous Monica Lewinksy interview

Barbara Walters was working on asking the questions, but at the same time, Monica Lewinsky was working with her team on how to answer the questions. The question that gave the Monica Lewinsky team the most trouble was that question, “Do you still love him?” Because at the beginning of their practice sessions, she said yes. And then she said she couldn’t say no because she did love him. And she loved him some of the time. And, they warned that that was not an effective answer to have. So you hear her, in this interview giving the answer they had worked out, which was no. But then in her follow up, she does acknowledge that sometimes she does still have warm feelings for him. On the Barbara Walters side, they worked a long time on what the closing question would be, because that’s a powerful position in an interview like this, that last question. And they settled on, “What will you tell your children?”

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On Gilda Radner’s impression of her as “Baba Wawa,” mocking the way she spoke

She was wounded when she heard this. For one thing, even though there was this exaggerated lisp that Gilda Radner used, nobody had any doubt who she was parodying. And, Barbara Walters had this speech anomaly. She called it a bastard Boston accent. Other people called it a lisp. Whatever it was she had tried, she’d gone to voice coaches early in her career to try to fix it, and it failed. So her feelings were hurt when the skit was done on Saturday Night Live. Now, it also made her famous. She came to terms with it, but I think she always found it kind of hurtful. … When Gilda Radner died … Barbara Walters wrote a sympathy note to her widower, Gene Wilder, expressing sympathy on her death, and signed it, “Baba Wawa.”

On her reluctant retirement

She worked into her 80s. … When she was in her 70s, she was working at a time when most women had been involuntarily retired. So she worked as long as they would keep her on the air. But as she started to sometimes miss a step, there was concern that she would embarrass herself or undermine some of the professional work she had done. … The people at ABC convinced her it was time to retire. And then CNN came in with a secret offer to put her on the air at CNN, which she was considering when her friends came back and said, no, it’s time. … There was a grand finale on The View, where two dozen women prominent in journalism came and paid tribute to her. And on her last, big show on The View. And when she was backstage afterwards, one of them came up and said … “What do you want to do in your retirement?” And Barbara said, “I want more time.” Meaning I want more time on the air.

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On if she was happy

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I asked 100 people who knew her that question: Was she happy? And a few people said yes. Joy Behar of The View said “happy-ish,” which is not a bad answer, but most people said while she was proud of what she had done and that she loved the money and the prominence that she had won, that she paid this huge price on the personal side — she had three failed marriages. She was estranged for a time from her only daughter. She never lost that feeling that she was always competing and could never stop and be content. So she had the most successful possible professional life, but I think she had kind of a sad, personal one.

Thea Chaloner and Joel Wolfram produced and edited this interview for broadcast. Bridget Bentz, Molly Seavy-Nesper and Beth Novey adapted it for the web.

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Road Rage Fight Breaks Out on L.A. Freeway After Minor Fender Bender

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Taylor Swift set a new record this week with, well, records. The vinyl kind.

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Taylor Swift set a new record this week with, well, records. The vinyl kind.

Taylor Swift performs onstage at Ryman Auditorium in Nashville on Sept. 20, 2022.

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Taylor Swift performs onstage at Ryman Auditorium in Nashville on Sept. 20, 2022.

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Taylor Swift, the millennial pop goddess whose latest album is now the first to surpass one billion Spotify streams in a single week, has smashed her own record when it comes to the sales of her physical albums as well.

Her Tortured Poets Department, released on April 19, took only five days to make history on Spotify. And in a typical overachiever move, Swift not only also sold the most vinyl albums ever in a week, but took only three days to do so. And the record she broke was her own.

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Tortured Poets Department has sold more than 700,000 physical albums so far. Last year, about a million vinyl records were sold in the US, in total. Nearly 10 percent of them were Taylor Swift’s.

Swift closed 2023 with five of the year’s top 10 best-selling vinyl records, leading with 1989 (Taylor’s Version), Speak Now (Taylor’s Version) and Midnights. Each of them sold more than 500,000 physical copies.

These figures, it should be noted, have been hugely assisted by two factors. One is that LP sales were not rigorously tracked until the early 1990s by Soundscan. Before then, it’s possible that other artists may have sold more than 700,000 physical albums in a week, but there’s just no data to prove it.

The other factor is that Swift’s albums are released in multiple editions. Many hardcore Swifties make a point of collecting them all. So, for example, a clear vinyl version of Tortured Poets Department with a bonus track is available only at Target. Other versions are only available through Swift’s website.

Sales of all of them count towards Tortured Poets‘ total.

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