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New Anthony Bourdain Biography: Light on Subtlety, Heavy on Grit

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New Anthony Bourdain Biography: Light on Subtlety, Heavy on Grit

DOWN AND OUT IN PARADISE: The Lifetime of Anthony Bourdain, by Charles Leerhsen


Anthony Bourdain would have hated that autocorrect turns his title into Boursin, a bland cheese with zero culinary credibility.

It’s stunning that predictive textual content doesn’t counsel his title first. Bourdain: He’s scorching, he’s attractive and he’s useless, as Rolling Stone stated about Jim Morrison on a infamous 1981 cowl.

Since his loss of life by his personal hand in France, in 2018, there’s been a gradual drip of books and documentaries and tv specials and journal one-offs about his life and profession.

On social media, he’s omnipresent in outdated clips, explaining methods to make a Negroni or ripping the phrase “farm to desk.” There are a variety of poignant Bourdain tattoos jiggling round on the market.

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A brand new biography, “Down and Out in Paradise: The Lifetime of Anthony Bourdain,” by Charles Leerhsen, is making information. It’s grittier than something we’ve examine him earlier than.

Listed below are the prostitutes, a variety of prostitutes, and one-night stands, and rumors of affairs with different food-world personalities.

Right here is the usage of steroids, human development hormone and Viagra. Listed below are precise, disturbing particulars about his suicide. His heroin behavior is recounted. So is his frequent coldness to many who liked and labored with him.

A earlier ebook, “Bourdain: The Definitive Oral Biography” (2021), compiled by Laurie Woolever, felt like an official Bourdain-industry product. It was worthy however uninteresting.

It was heavy on pontificating celebrities, from the meals, tv and journalism worlds, who tried to puzzle out what made this magnificent, pagan, literate, lantern-jawed beast tick, to place him on the sofa.

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Leerhsen’s ebook, however, has lots of people making an attempt to affix Bourdain on the sofa, ideally with out his trousers, and thus has extra adrenaline and feels more true to life.

Most human beings have extra needs than alternatives in life. These whom the gods will destroy are supplied with want and alternative in equal measure.

“Down and Out in Paradise” jogged my memory in sure methods of Albert Goldman’s muckraking 1981 biography of Elvis Presley. Leerhsen leans closely, for instance, on unnamed sources.

He’s not right here, although, to discredit or dismiss his topic. His admiration for Bourdain is almost all the time obvious. It’s exhausting to say if Bourdain would have appreciated this ebook. Both approach, I think he would have admired the creator’s guts.

“Down and Out in Paradise” isn’t probably the most delicate factor you’ll ever learn. Leerhsen is a former govt editor at Sports activities Illustrated whose earlier books embody biographies of Ty Cobb and Butch Cassidy. His Bourdain ebook goes down like a mass-market rock bio.

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I’d have liked it if I have been 17. The creator goes all in on Bourdain’s angst, his instinctive mistrust of authority, his hero-worship of gifted outsiders like Hunter S. Thompson and Iggy Pop and William S. Burroughs.

The older me, the one who prefers wine to fizz, needs Leerhsen had extra to say about issues like: a) the elite and vernacular meals worlds pre- and post-Bourdain; b) how Bourdain walked an ethical tightrope throughout the conventions of journey writing and reporting, no imply feat for a rich white man in skinny denims; and c) the sense that he was on the vanguard, extra so than even probably the most scrutinized actors, of a brand new kind of American masculinity. Right here was an out of doors, slightly than an indoor, cat.

You may’t have every little thing. Leerhsen sacrifices weight for pace.

He tracks Bourdain from his suburban New Jersey childhood — his mother and father had annoyed bohemian inclinations — to Vassar, the place he adopted the girl who would turn into his first spouse. School didn’t attraction to him, however cooking did, its piratical aspect, and he graduated from the Culinary Institute of America, a hidebound place on the time.

He labored in eating places in Provincetown, Mass., and later New York, most notably the raffish French restaurant Les Halles, incomes battle scars. He smoked 4 packs a day and had a giant tank for alcohol, and for medicine.

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He was a late bloomer. He printed a primary novel at 39. He studied unhappily with the editor Gordon Lish earlier than writing the piece that modified his life.

“Don’t Eat Earlier than Studying This: A New York Chef Spills Some Commerce Secrets and techniques” appeared in The New Yorker in April 1999. The influence, in these largely pre-internet days, is difficult to overstate: There have been tv information vehicles outdoors Les Halles the subsequent day.

The essay was speculated to run in New York Press, an alternate weekly, however the paper accepted it and by no means printed it. The New Yorker piece, by which Bourdain sharpened his tooth on lax restaurant practices, led on to his best-selling memoir, “Kitchen Confidential,” and to every little thing that adopted, notably the more and more well-made tv reveals.

Bourdain grew into his appears to be like; his was the type of face that impressed Talmudic ranges of examine amongst girls. He grew into his reveals. They received higher, moodier, extra sophisticated.

He had one million alternatives to promote out and vastly enrich himself. There aren’t any Bourdain knife units, or airport bistros.

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“When you’ve been to Cambodia, you’ll by no means cease desirous to beat Henry Kissinger to loss of life along with your naked palms,” Bourdain wrote in his 2002 ebook “A Prepare dinner’s Tour: International Adventures in Excessive Cuisines.”

When you’ve learn “Down and Out in Paradise,” you’ll by no means cease desirous to burn Bourdain’s cellphone and laptop computer. We study he had a Google alert set to his personal title. It gave him real-time, ego-stroking push notifications.

We study he Googled the title Asia Argento — the Italian actress with whom he had a torrid, messy affair — a number of hundred occasions within the final three days of his life, after she rattled him by showing in public with one other man.

Their textual content messages are printed within the ebook. “You have been reckless with my coronary heart,” Bourdain wrote, earlier than he hanged himself. The final web site he visited was a prostitution service, Leerhsen writes, although he appears to have died alone.

“It’s worthwhile to have a variety of issues go proper in your life earlier than you may turn into as depressing as Anthony Bourdain, by his late 50s, discovered himself — that’s, earlier than you may work your method to a place the place you may have a lot to lose,” Leerhsen writes. “In Tony’s case it took many years to succeed in a top from which falling would matter.”

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There’s an outdated joke in Hollywood that the movie “Gandhi” was in style as a result of Gandhi was every little thing individuals there want they have been: skinny, tan and ethical.

Bourdain — skinny, tan (he was hooked on sunbeds) and largely ethical himself — is approaching secular sainthood. This ebook doesn’t merely gentle candles however scuffs him up. I doubt will probably be the ultimate phrase.


DOWN AND OUT IN PARADISE: The Lifetime of Anthony Bourdain | By Charles Leerhsen | 308 pp. | Simon & Schuster | $28.99


In case you are having ideas of suicide, name or textual content 988 to succeed in the Nationwide Suicide Prevention Lifeline or go to SpeakingOfSuicide.com/sources for an inventory of extra sources.

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Rosenthal: Why the Orioles' latest scouting triumph is a 34-year-old journeyman pitcher

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Rosenthal: Why the Orioles' latest scouting triumph is a 34-year-old journeyman pitcher

Albert Suárez is not your typical Baltimore Orioles phenom. His path was quite different than that of Jackson Holliday, the game’s No. 1 prospect; Colton Cowser and Jordan Westburg, the back-to-back American League Players of the Week; or Heston Kjerstad, the latest young hotshot to join the club after leading the Triple-A International League with 10 homers in 21 games.

Those players were high draft picks, top 100 prospects, the products not just of enviable draft positions stemming from years of tanking, but also of a front office hitting on one selection after another. Suárez, after only two starts, looks like another organizational triumph. But he’s 34. The Orioles are his fifth major-league organization. And he spent the past five seasons in Japan and Korea.

When Suárez made his Orioles debut on April 17, he had gone six years, 204 days between major-league appearances. He pitched 5 2/3 scoreless innings against the Minnesota Twins that day, another 5 2/3 scoreless against the Los Angeles Angels on Monday night. Not bad for a guy who joined the Orioles on a minor-league contract last September. Blake Snell, who signed a two-year, $62 million free-agent deal with the San Francisco Giants, has an 11.57 ERA after three starts.

The addition of Suárez, announced by the Orioles as one of seven minor league deals on Dec. 30, was the kind of offseason transaction that elicits little more than a yawn. But for Mike Snyder, the Orioles’ director of pro scouting, the move was years in the making. He first identified Suárez as a possible target in the fall of 2017, while preparing for the Rule 5 draft. Mike Elias was a year from becoming the Orioles’ general manager.

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Suárez had been a swingman for the San Francisco Giants in 2016 and a reliever in ‘17. But the Giants, after re-signing him to a minor-league deal, declined to protect him on their 40-man roster. The Arizona Diamondbacks grabbed Suárez in the Rule 5 draft, then stashed him at Triple A. Suarez, who signed at 16 out of Venezuela with the Tampa Bay Devil Rays in 2006, sought a fresh start. The following year, he began his journey to Asia.

He often was injured during his three seasons in Japan, but pitched well as a starter during his two seasons in Korea.

The Orioles continued to monitor him. Snyder wanted to sign him in the fall of 2022. But Suárez returned to the Samsung Lions with a seven-figure guarantee — a better opportunity than any major-league team was willing to give him.

What changed last year?

Suárez suffered a left calf injury in early August. The Lions, facing a Korea Baseball Organization cap on the number of foreign players they could carry, released him to replace him with another import, Taylor Widener. Snyder, seeing an opportunity that had not existed previously, contacted Suárez’s agent, Peter Greenberg.

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“He’d been trying to get Albert for maybe the last three years. But the market in Asia moves very quickly,” Greenberg said. “He would always come to me early in the offseason here, but Albert would already have signed back in Japan or Korea. (Last year), though, he came to me and said, ‘I’m not going to be late this time. I want to try to sign Albert.’”

Snyder’s timing finally was right. The Lions wanted Suárez back, Greenberg said, but at a reduced salary in the $700,000-$800,000 range. Suárez was tired of being away. He is married with three children, ages 11, 8 and 4. The family lives in Katy, Texas. He had made decent money in Asia. He was ready to return full-time to the U.S.

The Orioles under Elias generally are selective in signing minor-league free agents. They don’t like releasing such players in spring training, and prefer their draftees to get the bulk of playing time in the minors. Elias, though, said he entrusts Snyder and his pro scouting group to handle minor-league deals for pitchers. Special assignment scout Will Robertson and pro scouting analyst Ben MacLean, in particular, vouched for Suárez, Snyder said.

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“We are always conscious of the difficulty of finding starting pitching. And we saw flashes with him over the years,” Snyder said. “He had been working in a length (role), throwing strikes. He had gained some velocity, starting in 2018 in relief, and sustained that a little bit in Asia. He (also) improved his secondaries.

“We sold him on an opportunity in spring training, that we would give him some rope. We didn’t promise he was going to make the rotation. We didn’t make any promises. If anything, we undersell things. And I think in the long run, that really helps us. When we say we have an opportunity, it’s a legitimate opportunity.”

Signing Suárez in September enabled the Orioles to bring him to their fall pitching camp in Sarasota, Fla., where he met their high-performance, training and coaching staffs. Assistant pitching coordinator Adam Schuck and minor-league pitching coordinator Mitch Plassmeyer developed a plan for him. A number of other coaches also worked with Suárez, helping him tweak his delivery so that he wouldn’t need to make adjustments while trying to make the club in the spring (Plassmeyer is now the major-league team’s assistant pitching coach).

Suárez’s ERA in spring training was 5.17, but he nonetheless impressed manager Brandon Hyde and his staff, striking out 19 and walking only two in 15 2/3 innings. In one exhibition against the Philadelphia Phillies, he struck out seven in three scoreless innings against a lineup composed predominantly of regulars.

“He opened our eyes from the stuff that was coming out of his hand,” Hyde told reporters when the team summoned Suárez to replace the injured Tyler Wells. “You see 96 and you see him throw his fastball by guys with life, and then the secondary stuff he was throwing for strikes also. And he kept doing it every five days. We were excited about it.”

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Suárez was excited, too, telling Greenberg even after he got sent down, “This was my favorite spring training in a long time.” In Snyder’s view, Suárez returned from Asia as many pitchers do, more refined in his approach, more advanced in his craft. He also learned to pitch in front of large crowds, making the majors less intimidating than perhaps they once were.

It’s only two starts. But the Orioles appear to have nailed it again.

“They saw something a lot of people didn’t,” Greenberg said.

(Top photo of Albert Suárez: Scott Taetsch/Getty Images)

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Who is the GOAT: LeBron or Jordan? Current players weigh in

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Who is the GOAT: LeBron or Jordan? Current players weigh in

Some debates deserve a stage of their own.

So while our (anonymous) NBA player poll was released Monday, with a record 142 players weighing in on some of the most interesting questions surrounding their league, we decided to dive even deeper into the age-old GOAT discussion because there’s a fascinating voting trend that simply must be explored.

While Michael Jordan won the “Greatest of All Time” category for the third consecutive time, his once-massive lead over LeBron James has shrunk significantly with every passing poll. This time around, James almost took the mantle. The data speaks loud and clear…

  • 2019 (the first time The Athletic conducted the poll): Jordan earned 73 percent of the votes, with James second at 11.9 percent (a gap of 61.1 percentage points)
  • 2023: Jordan earned 58.3 percent of the votes, with James second at 33 percent (a gap of 25.3 percent)
  • 2024: Jordan earned 45.9 percent of the votes, with James second at 42.1 percent (a gap of just 3.8 percent)

But why has Jordan’s lead shrunk so much? We wanted to let the players themselves explain.

The consistent rationale among LeBron voters, both old and new, is that his longevity is the ultimate difference-maker between the two. He’ll be 40 years old on Dec. 30, yet is still great enough to be widely considered one of the best players in today’s game. While Jordan was epic in his 14-year career, from his 6-0 record in the NBA Finals to his five Most Valuable Player awards and his incredible two-way play, many players shared the view that James’ ability to remain elite for more than two decades puts him over the top.

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Jordan, to review, retired twice (in 1993 and 1998) during his storied career and played 14 seasons in a 19-year span. When he was James’ age, in the last of his two forgettable seasons in Washington, he was putting up good numbers on a bad Wizards team that went 37-45 in both of his postseason-less campaigns. James, meanwhile, has saved some of his best work for last:

  • He broke Kareem Abdul-Jabbar’s all-time scoring record on Feb. 7, 2023
  • He led the Los Angeles Lakers to the Western Conference finals three months later
  • He led the Lakers to an (inaugural) In-Season Tournament title in December
  • He became the first player to be named to a 20th All-Star team in February
  • He was one of three players to average at least 25 points, eight assists and seven rebounds this season (the others were Nikola Jokić and Luka Dončić)

Out of respect for the GOAT incumbent, we’ll begin by highlighting this nuanced opinion from a Jordan voter who believes MJ’s influence on the entire sports world — not just basketball — is a deciding X-factor.

“The greatest ever is LeBron James, (but) the greatest of all time is Michael Jordan,” the player said. “The difference is stats. When you talk about impact, Michael Jordan. When you talk about stats and numbers, LeBron. Mike has the most impact, so that makes him the greatest ever in all aspects because he doesn’t just impact basketball. He impacts people who look up to him in tennis and football. But you won’t hear that about LeBron. … LeBron changed the game, but more so how it’s played. Jordan changed how it’s viewed. And that’s a big difference.”

Yet as the many LeBron voters detailed below, it goes much deeper than that for them. The microphone is theirs:


“I think what Jordan did in (14) years is crazy, but you’d have to add a whole lot of other things (for him to catch up with James). I think we got MVP fatigue with ‘Bron. I think he should have like seven (MVPs, rather than four). I think ‘Bron should have D-Rose’s (Derrick Rose) MVP (in 2010-11). I think he should have KD’s (Kevin Durant) MVP (in 2013-14). I think he should have James Harden’s MVP (in 2017-18). There’s a lot of MVPs he should have had.”


“Who would I draft in an all-time draft? That’s the way I look at it, you know what I’m saying? Some people look at it like, ‘Who do I want taking the last shot?’ Blah, blah, blah, all this other sh–. But in an all-time draft, I’m choosing LeBron. Why? I get 20 years of greatness, and I get somebody who plays one through five (point guard through center). And let me just say, the person I choose No. 2 would be Shaq (O’Neal), the most dominant player of all time. So in my GOAT debate, I would go 1-2 like that. And this is coming from a Kobe (Bryant) fan.

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“Winning, era-wise, is tough. And obviously, you’ve got Mike as the killer. But then, how does he (adjust to the rise of) the 3-point shot? There are questions if we take off the Teflon MJ cloak. If you took players from right now and put them back then, we’re faster, stronger, more skilled. We’d kill them. It is what it is. Part of the reason Michael was Michael was he was the first of this generation’s athletes: 6-foot-6, 40-inch vertical, which back in the ’80s was insane. But we’ve got rookies and role players doing that nowadays. ‘Bron is 6-foot-9, 260 pounds, with a 50-inch vertical. That’s probably what it’s gonna look like in 2045. And then we’re gonna be looking at it like, ‘I don’t know if I could play with those little kids.’ (Nowadays) in high school, people are taking off from the free-throw line and windmill dunking on people. When I was in school, barely finishing a windmill was a thing. … Now, it’s like these kids are windmilling on kids, doing it in eighth grade. It’s part of evolution. And even with basketball, once people see sh– is possible, they try to do it. When I was a kid, Kobe barely did the through-the-legs dunk. That’s what we aspired to do. Now people are looking at Zach LaVine and the free-throw line 360 and other wild sh–. … It’s part of how this sh– grows.”


“(LeBron) for sure. I think him being able to literally do everything and win (titles) with so many different organizations (the Cleveland Cavaliers, Miami Heat and Lakers) and also having the most points in his career, along with figuring out how to have longevity in his career. Everybody’s looking to have longevity, and he figured it out. He figured it out at the highest level. It doesn’t make any sense.”


“LeBron James is without a doubt the greatest player to ever touch a basketball. What he brings to the court, and for long he has, that’s my thing.”


“I’d say LeBron. Just to be able to do it for 20 years, it’s insane. I think it’s more of a longevity thing that you have to look at there, and (how) still every year he’s playing at the highest level. With the highest expectations (placed on him), he had everything to lose in terms of coming into the league. It would’ve been very easy for him to underachieve and not meet those expectations, I think he’s far surpassed them, all of them, somehow. … Being on the floor, the closer you are to the game, the more of a sense (you get) for how great LeBron is, how he sees things, how he talks. His impact on the game, his gravity on the game is felt.”


“(LeBron), easily. He’s the best at everything, His longevity, his consistency, his availability. And he’s won.”

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“For me, personally, growing up, (James) has just been the pinnacle. Being a Midwest kid, I remember him being in Ohio at (St. Vincent-St. Mary High School), and I’m hearing about him as a young kid. And just seeing him come up and seeing him do everything that he’s done since he’s been in the league has just been amazing. It’s a testament to him and all the hard work. It’s not normal what he’s doing. At all.”


“Longevity, consistency for 20 years-plus.”


Required reading

(Illustration: John Bradford / The Athletic; top photos of LeBron James and Michael Jordan: Justin Tafoya, Nathaniel S. Butler / Getty Images)

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Ten Hag thinks Manchester United are unlucky. He's only partly right

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Ten Hag thinks Manchester United are unlucky. He's only partly right

You may have watched Manchester United reach their second FA Cup final in as many seasons by the leather of Haji Wright’s left boot and considered it a fortunate escape that their collapse from 3-0 up against Championship opposition did not deserve.

Erik ten Hag did not think United got lucky, though. If anything, he was at his most impassioned in his post-match press conference when discussing his side’s misfortune, specifically for Coventry City’s stoppage-time penalty, arguing it was an “absolutely crazy” decision to award a handball against Aaron Wan-Bissaka.

Ten Hag took much the same line of argument before United’s last Premier League outing against Bournemouth. While accepting that “like a minister” he will bear ultimate responsibility for results, he could not help but bemoan his side’s bad luck over the past eight months.

“It’s huge. A lot went against us this season,” he said. And though United’s misfortune is not limited to refereeing calls in Ten Hag’s mind, that was where he trained his focus.

“You see all the penalties we conceded last week (against Chelsea and Liverpool) could also have been going in another way. You think over the course of a season sometimes you will get one, sometimes you will concede one. This season it feels like we only concede.”

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United have been awarded five penalties this season and have conceded 11, with four given away in the opening four games of the Champions League group stage. While most of those in Europe were not especially contentious, many of the six conceded in the Premier League have sparked debate.

Some have been soft — Rasmus Hojlund and Casemiro’s concessions against Manchester City and Wolverhampton Wanderers in particular — and others more debatable. None, it should be noted, have resulted in the officials responsible being stood down for the subsequent round of fixtures, as happened after Wolves were denied a penalty at Old Trafford on the opening weekend of the season.

All those decisions, however, are a matter of opinion. Outside of offside, most refereeing calls are subjective by nature and, as the era of VAR has taught us, there are different definitions of what constitutes a clear and obvious mistake.

Ten Hag has more substantive grounds for complaint on arguably the biggest single reason for United’s struggles: player injuries and enforced absences. The revolving door of United’s treatment room has seen all but four senior squad members — Bruno Fernandes, Andre Onana, Diogo Dalot and Alejandro Garnacho — pass through it at some point this year.

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The 2-2 draw at Bournemouth was the first time United have named an unchanged line-up since the opening two games of a season ravaged by injury. According to data from transfermarkt, United’s squad have collectively spent 1,710 days sidelined since the start of the season.

Ten Hag said last week he has not been able to pick his “favourite” line-up since the 2-1 victory over Manchester City at Old Trafford in January of last year. Just as United’s injuries have appeared to abate, new concerns have cropped up.

Fresh problems for Willy Kambwala, Mason Mount and Sofyan Amrabat meant United’s absentee list swelled into double figures again ahead of the semi-final, while Marcus Rashford and Scott McTominay both appeared to be carrying issues when substituted at Wembley.


Marcus Rashford walks off after being injured at Wembley (Glyn Kirk/AFP via Getty Images)

The absence of either of his first-choice left-backs for the majority of the season has, Ten Hag feels, had a material effect on United’s ability to play the way he wants. Lisandro Martinez’s unavailability has deprived him of a player who had a transformative effect during his first year in Manchester.

But is it all down to luck or could certain things be done differently? United have set to work restructuring the medical department since the appointment of head of sports medicine Gary O’Driscoll. Sources, who asked to remain anonymous to protect their relationships, believe there have been noticeable improvements since the former Arsenal club doctor’s arrival and that restructuring continues apace.

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Ten Hag’s training methods have also come under scrutiny and can be intense, particularly for those not involved in matches, who are put through rigorous sessions the day after games to maintain a consistent level of physical load across the squad. The fast, direct and often chaotic style of play that has been adopted this season also has to be considered as part of that equation.

Everybody knows by now that United face a lot of shots on goal — 574 in total in the Premier League this season. No top-flight team has faced as many on a per-game basis, but in the context of recent history, that figure only becomes all the more remarkable.

Since 2016-17, eight of the 15 top-flight sides to have faced more shots than United have been relegated. None have finished higher than 15th. At the current rate, United will surpass all of those 15 sides and yet even in the absolute worst-case scenario, they cannot finish any lower than 14th.

Ten Hag has defended United’s apparent willingness to give up shots by arguing they are predominantly low-quality chances and he has a point. The average shot United have faced in the league this season has had a 10 per cent chance of resulting in a goal.

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Andre Onana has been busy this season (Clive Brunskill/Getty Images)

Brentford and Newcastle have the worst record in that regard, with the average shot having a 13 per cent chance of being scored. The difference between a 13 per cent and 10 per cent chance is small but significant. A marginal gain, if you like.

But if you concede at least 20 shots a game, as United have regularly been doing of late, and one in every 10 goes in, you’ll need to score three to win. The eighth-worst attack in the league, with only 47 goals in 32 league games, cannot count on that.

United’s 47 goals is level with Luton Town and in line with expected data, too. Defensively, Ten Hag’s side have conceded 48 goals — one of the Premier League’s better records — but from an expected total of 59.8.

Take one away from the other and United’s expected goal difference is -12.2, the fifth-worst in the league. Suddenly, that actual goal difference of -1 does not look so bad after all.

But nothing can change perceptions and narratives around a side like a favourable run of fixtures, in the short term at least, and United now face the Premier League’s bottom two at Old Trafford in the space of four days.

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It should not need saying, but United are a better side than both Sheffield United and Burnley by any comprehensive measure. They should not need to get lucky to prove it.

(Top photo: Glyn Kirk/AFP via Getty Images)

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