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Berlin, Back in Full Swing

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Berlin, Back in Full Swing

No metropolis was enjoyable within the darkest days of the pandemic, however there could also be nowhere that might compete with Berlin for sheer gloom throughout that first Covid winter. Even in good occasions, the town’s funereal grayness, its scant daylight and collective penchant for gallows humor and blunt negativity often called the Berliner Schnauze (actually: Berlin snout), is barely barely compensated for within the colder months by its considerable cultural choices, thriving cafe and restaurant scene, and what’s arguably the most effective nightlife on the earth. Berlin in lockdown was not fairly.

However in the summertime of 2022, the town is again in full swing. Berlin’s 178 museums, seven symphony orchestras and three opera homes are as soon as once more up and operating. Bars, golf equipment and eating places are working at full capability, and, except for a masks mandate on public transportation and in medical services, nearly all Covid restrictions have been lifted since March 20. Germany’s entry restrictions have been additionally dropped — at the very least till the autumn, when there’s been discuss of renewed necessities if case numbers creep upward.

Maybe the largest opening on the town was the brand new airport, Berlin-Brandenburg Willy Brandt Airport, a blunder-riddled, 30-year venture that opened on the finish of 2020 after at the very least six missed opening dates and a funds that ran billions of {dollars} within the purple. And now that it’s lastly right here? In fact, everybody appears to hate it. The design is outdated. Logistics are dismal, meals choices grim. Clunky buses run between aircraft and terminal. Not less than there appear to be extra trans-Atlantic flight choices and the airport is considerably higher linked with the town middle. However total? Not an enormous win.

One other fraught, long-awaited opening was that of the Humboldt Discussion board, the neo-Baroque reconstruction of Berlin’s long-dead Metropolis Palace conceived as Germany’s reply to the Louvre or British Museum. The museum, which opened nearly on the finish of 2020 and started its phased bodily opening in 2021, has elicited criticism from the start for all the pieces from its cheesy design to its insufficiently investigated hyperlinks to the nation’s colonial previous. Nonetheless, there are worthwhile displays to discover. Along with overlaying the location’s historical past and up to date matters like local weather change, displays embrace the German state’s intensive assortment of non-European artwork, together with spectacular holdings from the Ethnological Museum and the Museum of Asian Artwork, a lot of which was acquired by imperialist plunder.

Guests could also be higher suggested to take a look at the extraordinary Neue Nationalgalerie, the enduring fashionable artwork museum designed by the Bauhaus pioneer Ludwig Mies van der Rohe that reopened final summer time after a six-year, $164 million refurbishment by David Chipperfield. Devoted to artwork of the twentieth century, the museum is especially sturdy on early German modernism, from the Expressionist Berlin avenue scenes of Ernst Ludwig Kirchner to Hannah Höch’s political photomontage and the glitter and doom of the New Objectivity portraiture masters: Otto Dix, George Grosz and Max Beckmann. Present exhibitions embrace works by Sascha Wiederhold, whose graphic, psychedelic abstractions have been suppressed by the Nazis, virtually into obscurity.

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Whereas the pandemic was inarguably tough on native companies, significantly as rents within the metropolis continued to spike, intensive authorities assist helped stave off a lot of the injury — a part of Germany’s 130-billion-euro ($155 billion) stimulus bundle. Covid actually didn’t cease the ascent of the town’s meals scene, which is flourishing like by no means earlier than as new eating places and pop-ups by modern cooks make it more and more arduous to do not forget that solely a decade in the past, it was legitimately arduous to search out an amazing meal in Berlin.

A lot of the latest motion is concentrated in Prenzlauer Berg, the previous East Berlin employees’ district turned bougey household enclave. Opened in July 2021 by Samina Raza and Ben Zviel, the duo behind the Berlin stalwart Mrs. Robinson’s, Frieda is an all-day restaurant that takes a equally locavore, nose-to-tail method to accessible nice eating, with a day by day altering menu that includes faultless dishes like line-caught tuna “chateaubriand” in a black pepper discount with triple-cooked fries, or heirloom tomatoes from a regenerative farm in Brandenburg served with AAA Cantabrian anchovies drizzled in olive oil. Above all, Frieda is vibey, with its cinematic open kitchen, on-tap pure wines and customized hi-fi sound system pumping classic home and jazz vinyl (dinner for 2 with drinks, from 140 euros, or about $144).

Different new Prenzlauer Berg standouts embrace Bar Regular, a wise wine bar and restaurant opened this 12 months by the younger Vietnamese restaurateur Van Anh Le (dishes from 5 to 25 euros), and Markthalle Pfefferberg, a meals market on the bottom ground of the Pfefferberg industrial advanced that features an natural butcher, a recent pasta maker, a Mexican grocery and, most notably, the primary first rate taco spot in Berlin, Taqueria el Oso (lunch for 2 from 25 euros). Additionally within the neighborhood is Otto, the three-year-old up to date German restaurant whose younger Berliner chef, Vadim Otto Ursus, has been on the vanguard of the town’s restaurant renaissance (dishes vary from 10 to 25 euros). Its Covid-era spinoff, Otto Pantry, affords fermented merchandise, bottled drinks and preserves.

In Mitte, the Dutch group behind Lode & Stijn opened one other European nice eating spot within the constructing of the Suhrkam-Verlag publishing home referred to as Remi (dinner for 2 with drinks from 160 euros). Extra thrilling is San, which serves what have to be the most effective sushi in Berlin in a low-key minimalist eating room on a quiet Mitte facet avenue (dinner for 2 from 100 euros; a 50-euro prepayment is required per particular person to order). Different notable additions embrace ChungKing Noodles, the cultish Sichuan noodle joint opened in Kreuzberg by the Chinese language chef Ash Lee after a collection of celebrated pop-ups (dinner for 2 from 45 euros)‌‌; La Côte, a Mediterranean bistro in Neukölln’s Schillerkiez recognized for its oysters and wine record (dishes vary from 3.50-euro oysters to a 28-euro octopus dish); and Julius, the marginally dressed-down sister restaurant of the Michelin-starred nice eating institution Ernst, simply down the block in Wedding ceremony. Julius affords equally Japanese-inflected, meticulously sourced delicacies, however at a barely cheaper price level and stage of accessibility (75 euros per particular person with out wine pairing).

The previous 12 months has additionally introduced a handful of thrilling pop-ups and roving culinary ideas, like Gaia, a women-run, farm-to-table venture primarily based in Berlin and Brandenburg (lunch for 2 from 70 euros), and Ember, a venture based by the younger German chef and Noma alum Tobias Beck that serves ingenious multicourse wood-fired delicacies in fascinating places all through the town (dinner is 110 euros per particular person with out wine pairing).

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The town’s lodge scene has not been practically as fertile as its gastronomic counterpart. The lodge group Amano opened a brand new location in Friedrichshain (doubles in August begin at 121 euros), and the architectural group behind the Former Jewish Ladies College venture in Mitte opened a boutique lodge referred to as Wilmina within the Charlottenburg district that may have been interesting have been it not housed in a former Nazi jail the place ladies dissidents have been jailed and interrogated by the Gestapo.

However anticipation is excessive for 2 resorts by native culinary establishments opening later this 12 months in Mitte: Chateau Royale, a 93-room interpretation of the basic grand lodge by the group behind Grill Royale (doubles in September begin at 195 euros), and Telegraphenamt, a lodge and members membership by the homeowners of the 150-year-old Gendamenmarkt eating institution, Borchardt (rooms from 200 euros).

Then there’s the membership scene, maybe Berlin’s greatest tourism draw. Even earlier than Covid, concern that rising rents and rampant property growth have been threatening the town’s panorama of golf equipment rooted in its queer techno underground had led to a brand new time period: Clubsterben, or membership loss of life. These worries heightened because the pandemic pressured the entire metropolis’s golf equipment to shut, remaining shuttered even when outlets, museums and galleries started to open with restrictions. Some golf equipment have been repurposed as Covid testing facilities or vaccination hubs. Berghain, the techno temple itself, reopened as an artwork exhibition that noticed the previous energy plant full of works by native artists from the non-public Boros Assortment.

Rumors abounded that Berghain would by no means reopen as a membership, that nightlife within the metropolis would by no means totally get better. However the rumors, it appears, have been unfounded. After a weird “Footloose”-esque interval when golf equipment have been allowed to function however solely underneath a Tanzverbot, or dancing ban, the town’s nightclubs have been ultimately given the go-ahead to renew common operation.

Ultimately, not a single Berlin membership closed for good due to the pandemic, thanks largely to authorities grants and advocacy by the Berlin Membership Fee, a commerce group. Newer venues, like open-air golf equipment Oxi Garten and Æeden, and particularly the culturally adventurous Trauma Bar und Kino, are respiratory recent vitality (and much-needed variety) into the town’s nightlife.

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And the forest raves that unfold by the Brandenburg countryside throughout that first locked-down summer time? They appear to be one Covid-era growth with endurance. There’s no telling what the autumn may carry, however at the very least in the summertime of 2022, there’s extra dancing in Berlin than ever earlier than.

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Column: Disneyland just promised electric cars at Autopia. Gas will be gone by 2026

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Column: Disneyland just promised electric cars at Autopia. Gas will be gone by 2026

When the Walt Disney Co. announced earlier this month that it would at long last ditch the smog-spewing gasoline engines at its beloved Autopia attraction in Anaheim, the company left a few key details to the imagination.

Would the new ride vehicles be purely electric? Or would they be hybrids that still burned some climate-wrecking, oil-based fuel? And how long would it take for Walt Disney’s creative and engineering heirs to make the long-overdue switch?

After I wrote a story breaking the news about the company’s plans, a coalition of electric vehicle activists launched a campaign to pressure Disney to commit to electric vehicles — not hybrids — and to phase out gasoline within two years.

On Thursday, those activists won.

In a written statement, Disneyland spokesperson Jessica Good confirmed to The Times that electrification “means fully electric — it does not mean hybrid or any other version of a gasoline combustion engine.” She added that the theme park “will no longer be using the current engines within the next 30 months.”

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That means by fall 2026, Disneyland guests will no longer have to worry about breathing lung-damaging exhaust as they wait in line for Autopia — and park employees won’t have spend hours-long shifts inhaling those fumes as they work the ride.

It’s not yet clear when the newly electrified Autopia will reopen.

“Reimagining an attraction does take time, so we don’t have a reopening date at this time,” Good said.

Zan Dubin, the electric vehicle advocate leading the pressure campaign, was thrilled when she heard Thursday’s news. She called it a “huge victory” and a powerful reminder that climate activism works.

“All it takes for bad stuff to keep happening is for good people to do nothing,” she said, paraphrasing Abraham Lincoln. “And we refuse to stand by and do nothing.”

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Dubin had been planning to lead a rally outside Walt Disney Studios in Burbank on Sunday, to urge the company to do better on Autopia. She’s told me she’s moving forward with the event, although she said it will now be more of a celebration.

“We are thrilled,” she said.

The stories that Disney tells at its theme parks — and on its streaming services, cruise ships and other platforms — are far more than entertainment. They play a powerful role in shaping how we understand our world and ourselves. That’s why the company’s decision to close Disneyland’s Splash Mountain ride — which was based on a racist film — and its increasing embrace of LGBTQ+ characters in its films have become such political flash points. The opponents of progress know that these choices matter.

If you care about climate progress, you should care about Autopia.

Disneyland visitors wait to exit the Autopia attraction in March.

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(Allen J. Schaben / Los Angeles Times)

When the ride opened in 1955 as a centerpiece of Walt Disney’s Tomorrowland, it helped cement in the American consciousness the idea that gas-guzzling cars — and sprawling freeways — were the promise of the future. Within a year, President Eisenhower had signed the bill that would create the Interstate Highway System as we know it today.

Nearly 70 years later, cars, trucks and other modes of transportation are the nation’s largest source of heat-trapping emissions — emissions that have fueled record global temperatures for 10 straight months, resulting in deadlier heat waves, fires and storms. Fossil fuel combustion also produces regular old air pollution that researchers say kills millions of people each year.

Switching from gasoline engines to electric cars alone won’t solve all of our environmental and public health problems.

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Mining to supply lithium for lithium-ion electric car batteries can be environmentally destructive in some places. Freeways have historically been built through low-income communities of color, tearing apart vibrant neighborhoods. The more we can rebuild our cities around public transit, electric bikes and green space — and less around cars — the happier and healthier we’ll be.

Beyond Autopia, Disney has an opportunity to promote that kind of future in Tomorrowland.

As I wrote earlier this month, Disneyland fans agree that the once-futuristic land hasn’t been especially forward-thinking for a long time. To my mind, clean energy and sustainability would make the perfect theme for a new and improved Tomorrowland. There’s already a major public transit element in the Monorail. Throw in some gas-free induction stoves at the main restaurant, some solar panels, some environmental films at the currently empty movie theater — it could be pretty awesome.

But even short of all that, we’re going to need a lot of electric vehicles, fast, to get the climate crisis under control. And for Disney to start telling the story of those EVs at Autopia is a big deal. The company deserves credit for getting it right.

“I’m glad they’re stepping up and doing the right hitting,” said Joel Levin, executive director of Plug In America, a national electric vehicle advocacy group that’s sponsoring this Sunday’s rally. “It’s a great way for the public to experience electrification, to turn it into a teachable moment, rather than the experience of standing next to a gas lawnmower, which is what it feels like now.”

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Column: The salmon industry faces extinction — not because of drought, but government policies and politics

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Column: The salmon industry faces extinction — not because of drought, but government policies and politics

Snapshots from an environmental and economic disaster:

Kenneth Brown, the owner of Bodega Tackle in Petaluma, reckons he has lost almost $450,000 in the last year.

“I haven’t taken a paycheck in seven or eight months,” he says. He has had to lay off all but one employee, leaving himself, his son and the one remaining worker to run the business.

James Stone, board president of the Nor-Cal Guides & Sportsmen’s Assn., says more than 120 guides who serve recreational fishing customers in and around the Sacramento River and San Francisco Bay have been all but put out of business, costing the economy as much as $3.5 million a year.

Salmon have survived droughts in California for millennia. But when on top of that you have incredible water diversions and temperature pollution, you’re killing these baby fish. And when you kill the baby fish, they don’t come back as adults.

— Scott Artis, Golden State Salmon Assn.

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Sarah Bates, the owner of a commercial fishing boat in San Francisco, has seen 90% of her income washed away. She has watched a commercial fleet capacity of nearly 500 boats reduced nearly to zero.

The circumstance affecting all three is the shutdown of the crucial fall-run salmon fishing in California, which the Pacific Fishery Management Council, a governmental body, recently extended for 2024, the second year in a row.

The main reason is the decline of the salmon population in the Sacramento River to such an unsustainable level that there’s reason to fear that it may not recover for years, if ever — unless government policies are radically reconsidered.

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Commercial fishers who relied on the fall-run salmon as their dominant source of income have struggled to find alternatives.

“Some people are bringing in black cod or rockfish or albacore,” Bates told me. Some land Dungeness crab. But prices for those products don’t match the value of Chinook salmon.

“That allows for some income, but doesn’t really make up the difference for what you lose,” Bates says. “There are members of the fleet who have taken land jobs, or are relying on household members to pay the bills.”

One can’t minimize the scale of the shutdown, which follows a long-term decline in the fishery and is the first such shutdown since 2008-2009, which was driven by a severe drought. In 2022, the last year of salmon fishing in California, the fleet consisted of 464 commercial vessels, down from 4,750 in 1980.

Private and chartered recreational trips in California, which reached 98,900 in 2022—down from 148,000 in 2012—have also been shut down.

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The closing of both categories has rippled across the entire fishing economy, affecting hotels and restaurants that catered to recreational fishing customers as well as bait and tackle shops. For Brown’s Petaluma shop, there are no sales of bait or commercial gear — “no more boots, no more rain slickers, all that business is gone and there’s nothing to replace it.”

There’s more to the salmon crisis than the devastation of livelihoods of tens of thousands of Californians working in an industry valued at more than $1.4 billion annually.

The crisis underscores the utter failure of the state’s political leaders to balance the needs of stakeholders in its water supply. In this case, the conflict is between large-scale farms on one side and environmental and fishery interests on the other.

For decades, agribusiness has had the upper hand in this conflict. It’s not hard to discern why: The growers have more money and therefore more political influence. Westlands Water District, the vast irrigation district sprawled over Fresno and Kings counties in the Central Valley—the largest such district in the nation—spent more than $4.7 million on Sacramento lobbying over the last decade.

During the same period, Stewart Resnick, whose Roll International conglomerate owns the Central Valley almond orchards that are the largest growers of those nuts in the world and enormous consumers of water, donated $2.8 million to political campaigns in California, chiefly to Democratic candidates and in support of ballot box initiatives; among his contributions was $125,000 to oppose the 2021 recall of Gov. Gavin Newsom.

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Officially valued at $1.4 billion a year, the salmon fishery can’t hope to compete with agriculture on a dollar-for-dollar basis. The market value of all agricultural products in California was $59 billion in 2022, according to state figures; salmon weren’t counted. The 10 most lucrative farm crops, led by dairy products, brought in some $35 billion that year.

The salmon fisheries are bellwethers for ecological health generally. “Fishermen are directly dependent on a healthy ecosystem,” says Barry Nelson, an advisor to the Golden State Salmon Assn. Their fortunes reflect not merely adequacy of water flows in California rivers and bays, but water quality. Any factor that falls outside a given range can produce a crash in fish populations, endangering whole species while putting men and women out of work.

As my colleague Ian James has reported, a key factor in the survival of the salmon population is water temperature. The diversion of ever more water from the federal government’s Shasta Dam for farm irrigation has driven temperatures in the Sacramento River to murderous levels.

That river, Nelson points out, is “the most important salmon-producing system south of the Columbia River.” But California authorities haven’t required the federal Bureau of Reclamation, which owns and manages the dam, to meet temperature standards downstream of the dam, even though it has the power to do so. “The state just hasn’t done its job,” Nelson says.

Talk to stakeholders in the salmon fishery, and one term keeps cropping up: “water management.” Their point is that drought isn’t the most important factor in the survival of the species — policy is, specifically the management of water supplies so that they’re balanced among users and serving irrigation demand from farmers doesn’t wipe out competing interests, especially during dry years.

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To better understand the threats to salmon, it helps to know about their life cycle. Salmon live and breed on a three-year timeline. Adult fish swim in the ocean, but migrate upstream to lay eggs in the gravel beds of inland rivers. After they hatch, the baby fry and juveniles, called smolt, begin migrating downstream, typically via San Francisco Bay, and out to sea. Then the cycle begins again.

The critical period for the fall-run salmon in the Sacramento is while the eggs are incubating in their gravel beds. At water temperatures of 54 degrees, they start being cooked to death. Irrigation releases from Shasta suck down the reservoir’s cold water, leaving surface water heated by the sun; that’s what ends up in the Sacramento River at spawning season.

In recent years, water in the spawning beds has been measured at 70 degrees or higher. In 2021, state biologists reported, 99% of winter-run Chinook salmon failed to reach the San Francisco-San Joaquin River delta and the bay.

“Salmon have survived droughts in California for millennia,” says Scott Artis, executive director of the Golden State Salmon Assn. “But when on top of that you have incredible water diversions and temperature pollution, that’s what’s killing these baby fish. And when you kill the baby fish, they don’t come back as adults.”

The need for painstaking water management is the result of human interventions in California’s natural environment. Over the last 100 years, rivers across the Central Valley were dammed to provide irrigation for farms, blocking salmon from their natural habitats. The federal government opened salmon hatcheries to compensate, but they have not produced enough fish to make up for the losses from poor water management.

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Meanwhile, the water demands of California growers became less flexible. Crops that could be fallowed during dry spells, leaving more water for the environment, were supplanted by almond and pistachio orchards, which require water in wet years and dry. California almond acreage rose to 1.38 million last year from 418,000 in 1995. In the same period, pistachio acreage rose to more than 461,000 from 60,300.

The crisis that has unfolded in 2023 and this year has its roots in actions taken during the Trump administration. In 2019, Trump installed David Bernhardt, a lobbyist for agricultural water users, as Interior secretary.

As an attorney in private practice, Bernhardt had sued the government on behalf of the giant Westlands Water District to challenge its enforcement of the Endangered Species Act, which conflicted with Westlands’ interests. As Interior secretary, Bernhardt advocated for loosening enforcement of the act.

In 2020, Bernhardt and Trump implemented an increase in water deliveries to big farmers under conditions that spelled disaster for the salmon fishery, among other ecological issues. California objected, asserting that Interior’s official biological opinions, which concluded that the increases wouldn’t adversely affect salmon and other species, bore no “rational connection [with] the facts.” The Natural Resources Defense Council labeled the opinions “a plan for extinction” of salmon and other endangered species.

They went through anyway. The demands from agribusinesses in the Central Valley for more water had received a friendly hearing from the Trump administration and Republicans in Congress, who recognized that the valley was perhaps the only strongly Republican part of California. They decried the passage of water from inland reservoirs to rivers and out to sea as wasteful; as I wrote at the time, their single-minded service for the growers deprived the salmon fishery of its lifeblood.

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The impact of the Trump policies was destined to be felt three years on. Indeed, last year only 6,160 adult salmon were estimated to have spawned in the Sacramento River, the worst level since the drought year of 2017 and obviously well below the annual average of 175,000 spawning from 1996 to 2005, the best period for the health of the salmon fishery over the last four decades.

In January, Newsom responded to the salmon crisis with an action plan encompassing restoring salmon habitats, modernizing hatcheries, and removing impediments to salmons’ upstream migrations. The fishery community supports many of those initiatives, but also recognizes that the package is largely aspirational, for money hasn’t been appropriated to fulfill all its elements.

The Newsom administration also outlined plans in March 2022 to reach a series of voluntary agreements with agricultural water users over water sharing. Environmental and fishing groups, which weren’t part of the negotiations, weren’t impressed — a coalition of those groups, including the Sierra Club and the Golden State Salmon Assn., panned the proposal as “incomplete, unenforceable, inequitable, inadequate, and [lacking] a scientific foundation.”

Nor were the proposed voluntary agreements favored by two key federal agencies. The Environmental Protection Agency wrote in January that the absence of strong mandates for higher water flows in the Sacramento River meant that the plan would have only a “insignificant impact” on water temperature in the river. The National Marine Fisheries Service questioned whether the $740 million in state and federal funding needed to implement the voluntary agreements was realistic, since none of it had been appropriated.

In other words, Newsom’s approach involves a heaping helping of hand-waving. From the standpoint of the salmon industry, his other water policies, including a 45-mile water tunnel under the delta and fast-tracking construction of the Sites Reservoir in the western Sacramento Valley, will make things worse. The tunnel would turn the delta into “a deathtrap for salmon,” Nelson says, and the Sites Reservoir would degrade downstream waters, possibly increasing temperatures.

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In many respects, the policies on the table are antiques. Some were developed without regard for the effects of global warming, and others reflect thinking that emerged in an era when California authorities thought the water supply was abundant, even unlimited.

That won’t do anymore. The federal government already lists Sacramento River winter-run Chinook salmon as an endangered species and the spring run as a threatened species. The all-important fall run might not be far behind.

California’s water policies need to be subjected to a thorough rethinking, and money to fix all that’s broken needs to be appropriated, not just put on somebody’s wish list.

Fishermen and -women are a constitutionally optimistic class. “There’s always hope that things will get better,” Artis told me. But hope is waning. “We have to educate the Legislature and the public so we get those water flow and temperature protections, or we’ll be here again year after year with fishery closures.”

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Avian flu outbreak raises a disturbing question: Is our food system built on poop?

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Avian flu outbreak raises a disturbing question: Is our food system built on poop?

If it’s true that you are what you eat, then most beef-eating Americans consist of a smattering of poultry feathers, urine, feces, wood chips and chicken saliva, among other food items.

As epidemiologists scramble to figure out how dairy cows throughout the Midwest became infected with a strain of highly pathogenic avian flu — a disease that has decimated hundreds of millions of wild and farmed birds, as well as tens of thousands of mammals across the planet — they’re looking at a standard “recycling” practice employed by thousands of farmers across the country: The feeding of animal waste and parts to livestock raised for human consumption.

“It seems ghoulish, but it is a perfectly legal and common practice for chicken litter — the material that accumulates on the floor of chicken growing facilities — to be fed to cattle,” said Michael Hansen, a senior scientist with Consumers Union.

It is still unclear how the cows were infected — whether by contact with birds, or via feed made from litter waste — but litter has been associated with previous outbreaks of disease, including botulism.

Poultry litter causing the bovine cases of avian flu is considered “very unlikely, though not impossible” wrote Veronika Pfaeffle, in a joint statement from the U.S. Department of Agriculture and the Food and Drug Administration.

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Poultry litter consists of manure, feathers, spilled feed and bedding material that accumulate on the floors of the buildings that house chickens and turkeys. It can contain disease-causing bacteria, viruses (including H5N1), antibiotics, toxic heavy metals, pesticides and even foreign objects such as dead rodents, birds, rocks, nails and glass.

It is typically mixed with hay or corn to make it palatable to livestock.

California bans the feeding of poultry litter to lactating dairy cows. However, it is legal to sell it as feed to beef and other cattle.

“It is a premium product used to help recycle waste into a sustainable product,” said Anja Raudabaugh, CEO of Western United Dairies. She said that although she could not make informed comments about its use outside of the state, “there is very little of it used here in California.”

California’s animal feed law — which applies to commercially sold feeds — requires that animal waste products sold for feed must contain no residues of pathogens, metals, pesticides or antibiotics.

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The Department of Food and Agriculture’s Feed Program “inspects every California facility manufacturing dried poultry litter and reviews firms’ treatment verification records onsite,” said Steve Lyle, department spokesman.

However, it is unclear whether there are regulations addressing the private exchange or production of poultry litter or other animal waste for feed. Or how widespread the practice of feeding poultry waste to cattle is in the state or around the country.

It “was a common practice throughout the U.S. for many years,” said Lyle. “It is not a very common practice in California anymore.”

Chicken litter cannot be fed to lactating dairy cows under California law.

(Luis Sinco / Los Angeles Times)

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According to Michael Payne, a researcher and outreach coordinator at the Western Institute of Food Safety and Security at UC Davis, there was at least one commercial processor of poultry litter in the state — Imperial Western Products, based in Coachella. That company was bought in 2022 by Arkansas’ Denali Water Solutions — which has had recent legal run-ins with environmental authorities in Missouri and Alabama over its handling of animal waste. It is unclear whether Imperial still produces feed from litter. An operator at the company directed calls to “corporate,” or Denali Water Solutions, which is owned by TPG Growth, a private equity firm. Denali did not provide comments for this story before publication.

The federal government does not regulate poultry litter in animal feed, and in many states — including Missouri, Alabama and Arkansas — there are no requirements or regulations regarding contamination or processing.

“The FDA may take regulatory action if it becomes aware of food safety concerns with poultry litter products intended for use in animal food in interstate commerce,” Pfaeffle said in the statement from both the USDA and FDA.

An online guide from the University of Missouri notes there are “no federal or Missouri regulations governing the use of poultry litter as a feed.” However, the guide’s authors urge users to employ “common sense.”

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“Poultry litter should not be fed to dairy cattle or beef cattle less than 21 days before slaughter,” the guide notes, citing concerns about “residues of certain pharmaceuticals.”

Most other developed nations — including Canada, the United Kingdom and the countries within the European Union — have banned the practice. The FDA considered doing so in the U.S. in the mid-2000s.

For cattle farmers, the waste — which includes calcium, zinc and other minerals and vitamins — provides a cheap form of protein feed. For poultry farmers, the exchange allows them to divert the litter away from a landfill or from being burned.

In the 1980s, concerns about bovine spongiform encephalopathy — or mad cow disease — took hold across Europe, when cases of the incurable and invariably fatal neurodegenerative disease of cattle began to appear. The disease, which is caused by folded proteins known as prions, can transfer to people who eat the meat of infected cattle. In people, the disease is fatal and called Creutzfeldt-Jakob disease.

Just as cattle are fed poultry waste, chickens are often provided feeds that consist of cattle waste and renderings — creating a potential route for prions to re-enter the food supply. However, because the FDA mandates the removal of all tissues shown to carry the prions — such as brains and spinal cords — from poultry diets, the risk is reduced.

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However, other more common pathogens are also found in poultry litter. In one 2019 study of litter used on farm fields as fertilizer, researchers found that every sample tested from U.S. broiler chickens carried E. coli strains resistant to more than seven antibiotics — including amoxicillin, ceftiofur, tetracycline, and sulfonamide.

It is unclear if the litter was heat treated before it was applied.

Raudabaugh said all poultry litter feed in California is kiln heated and exposed to temperatures that can kill bacteria, such as E. coli, and viruses, including H5N1.

“Firms are sampling and analyzing finished product for Salmonella regularly,” said Lyle, the state’s food and agriculture spokesman.

He noted that poultry is regularly tested for bird flu and that poultry waste from a flock infected with bird flu “cannot leave the premises until it has met CDFA requirements for ensuring the virus has been eliminated,” he said. “The premises is also tested and the quarantine is not released until the premises tests negative for highly pathogenic avian influenza.”

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Lyle said cattle herds with “symptoms consistent” with bird flu infections “can be tested at the California Animal Health and Food Safety Laboratory in consultation with the CDFA Animal Health Branch.”

He added that no symptomatic herds have been identified, “although one herd that lost pregnancies was tested and was negative” for the virus.

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