The next thing on the trail is the norovirus… Who got hit, where did they go, how did they behave… I replace the hand sanitizer in my little containers with some liquid, biodegradable hand soap. People get scared of people, of shelters, of hostels. I try to continue hiking and behaving normally, sleeping in my tent when the weather collaborates, otherwise I keep using shelters but I was my hands obsessively. I stop using my filter, preferring to boil or chemically treat my water.

Of course, this is the moment when Dame Nature decides to give us water… a lot of it! At some point I lose my courage, even zeroing in a shelter.

The next section of the trail is a dream coming through for me. The ” Triple Crown of Virginia” was one of the first images to come to my mind when I didn’t know much of the entire Appalachian Trail adventure, in particular the famous image everybody posts on McAfee knob. Actually, last year, when I was hiking a section of the Mountain to Sea with my daughter, she asked me what section of the AT I was the most excited about and this is the one I mentioned to her. I was going to get my own picture on McAfee knob! Now that it is done, without wanting to deny the undeniable beauty of it, I realize there are WAY more to the AT than this very popular and touristic spot.

The whole Triple Crown for me starts from a hostel situated just north of Dragon’s Tooth. I slackpack this section, going southbound from the hostel, since I had heard of its technical difficulty. Later on, I admit I could have done it with my pack since I end up to be too much of a wimp to actually climb the whole thing! There is still some rock climbing to get there, but I think I could have managed with my backpack. Nonetheless, a day without 35 pounds on one’s back is always appreciated!

The view from the top of the mountain is impressive, sometimes in a Jurassic Parc way, but what impresses me the most is  the abundance of rhododendron and mountain laurel.

The next day, I finally go up to MacAfee knob. I am not disappointed. This place is impressive and makes you feel so small!

Afterwards, Tinker Cliffs shows to be some kind of a repeat of MacAfee to me, but in more remote, less touristic setting. There is a bear nearby the shelter where I set my tent up later on. Of course, I did not happen to see it.

The next day starts slow. I am all mixed up with my maps. Distances don’t match. It is Mothers’ Day and I miss my family. I want a treat.  I decide to go down to Dalesville, it seems there is a Kroger nearby. I think it is a mile from me, but it happens to be 3! Instead, I end up in a gas station and I get a pint of Ben&Jerry’s. I eat it with my spork, in the front of the gas station, sitting on a plastic box. Total homeless look. Afterward I fly my last 5 miles. I sleep in my tent, alone at the shelter. Thankfully this day is over.

The next day, I wake up at 2:45 am. Rain is supposed to start at 3 am so I decide to pack my tent and walk. I reach the shelter at 1:45pm and norovirus or not, I am going to sleep in it tonight. I unroll a tarp that is in the corner and set-up on top of it. It’s going to work. Time for a nap.

Days continue to roll. It rains a lot. My socks smell horribly, and so do my feet.

I see some wildlife.

I cross a giant bridge on the James and arrive to Glasgow.

Right after Glasgow I climb the majestic Punchbowl. Views of the mountains and the James river are spectacular.

And then comes the Shenandohah.

I have mixed feelings about the Shenandohah. There are a lot of people, a lot of facilities, thankfully a lot of bear accomodations. Shelters are called huts and are made of stones.

We have a wonderful picnic where Truck Stop serves us venison, drinks and snacks.  Bear and deer were hunted here, just down the hill.

Nature is beautiful in the Shenandoah. Wildlife is visible. Almost tame. And of course it rains.

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